GFPK Travels

Trip to Africa in February

2012-01-19T21:25:00.089-03:00

Egypt, Kenya, and Tanzania

Saturday, Feb 4th: We take the Sonoma Airporter from Santa Rosa at 10am to the San Francisco Airport. Our KLM Flight 608 leaves SFO at 2:38pm, and arrives in Amsterdam the next day at 10:10am. At 5:25pm, our KLM Royal Dutch flight 553 leaves Amsterdam, and arrives in Cairo at 11:05pm. We're staying at the Ramses Hilton.

Feb 5th: Arrive in Cairo. Transfer to our hotel.
Al-Qahira, literally "The Vanquisher" or "The Conqueror", is the capital of Egypt, and the second largest city in the Muslim World, the Arab world and Africa, and the 16th largest metropolitan area in the world. Nicknamed "The City of a Thousand Minarets" for its preponderance of Islamic architecture, Cairo has long been a centre of the region's political and cultural life. Overnight in Cairo at the ramses Hilton.

Feb 6th
This morning, we travel to Memphis and Saqqara, chronologically the two most important sites in all of Egypt. Memphis was the capital of Egypt during the Old Kingdom (ca 2700-2180 BC), and Saqqara was used as a burial place for residents of Memphis including kings, princes and nobles. Our drive this morning takes us past some small, colourful villages and plantations in the fertile Nile Valley. At the ancient city of Memphis, we will see several statues in a garden- like setting, including the colossal statue of Rameses the Great.

From Memphis, we travel a short distance to Saqqara, the ancient burial site. On the site, considered by many archaeologists to be one of the world's most important excavations, is the Step Pyramid, constructed by Imhotep in the 27th century BC. The pyramid began as a simple mastaba, or long, flat tomb building. Over the course of time, Imhotep added to this mastaba five times -- the pyramid eventually measured 62m (203 feet) in height.

After lunch, we pay a visit to the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx. Impressive in their grandeur, the pyramids are estimated to have been constructed over a period of 20 years using more than 100,000 labourers each year. The Great Pyramid of Cheops, constructed from over two million stone blocks, is 135m (443 feet) high. We'll enter one of the pyramids through a long, narrow passageway, and explore the deep inner chambers.

Later, we'll visit the Sphinx. This feline-human was named by the Greeks because it resembled the mythical winged monster with a woman's head and lion's body. Legend has it that this "Sphinx" proposed a riddle to the Thebans, and killed all who could not guess the correct answer. The Sphinx was carved from one solid piece of limestone, and measures 50m (164 feet) in length and 22m (72 feet) in height. Overnight at the Ramses Hilton.

Feb 7th
Early this morning, we travel from Cairo to Alexandria. The second largest city in Egypt, known as "The Pearl of the Mediterranean", has an atmosphere that is more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern. The ambience and cultural heritage distinguish it from the rest of the country, although it is actually only 225 km from Cairo.

We head to the southwest of the city, and a hill littered with the remains of ancient walls, architectural fragments, and rubble on which stands Alexandria's largest ancient monument, Pompey's Pillar, rising from the ruins of the ancient and famous Serapeion (Temple of Serapis). This column of red Aswan granite with a Corinthian capital, standing on a badly-ruined substructure, and rising to a height of almost 90ft / 27m, is traditionally believed to have been erected by the Emperor Theodosius.

We'll also visit the Roman Catacombs, the last existing major construction dedicated to the old Egyptian religion. Though the funerary motifs are pure ancient Egyptian, the architects and artists were schooled in the Graeco-Roman style. Applied to the themes of Ancient Egyptian religion, it has resulted in an amazing integrated art, quite unlike anything else in the world.

Another highlight today is a visit to Bibliotheca Alexandria. Once the greatest library in the ancient world, the Bibliotheca is dedicated to "the writings of all nations." Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the modern Bibliotheka cost some USD150 million, all by donation from Saudi Arabia, the UAE and Iraq. We'll return to Cairo in time for dinner. Overnight in Cairo at the Ramses Hilton.

Feb 8th
Early this morning, we'll fly from Cairo to Aswan in Upper Egypt. Upon arrival, we enjoy a leisurely sail on a felucca, a traditional sailing vessel used for centuries for carrying goods and passengers along the Nile. This evening, we travel to a Nubian village, and enjoy dinner at a local home. Overnight at the Iberotel Aswan.

Feb 9th
Early this morning, we drive from Aswan across the Western Desert to Nubia, or the "Land of the Gold". Our destination this morning is the impressive Abu Simbel -- the imposing rock temples of Rameses II and his queen, Nefertari.

We have a guided tour of this site, including the interior of the colossal temples. The Temple of Rameses II, with its immense statues of the Pharaoh seated on his throne, is one of the classic images of the power of the Pharaohs. Inside the temple, there are well-preserved wall decorations and several murals. There is a wonderful relief of Rameses presenting captives to various gods, including himself. We also gain insight into the reconstruction process by visiting the interior of the artificial mountain.

We travel back to Aswan, making a brief stop at the High Dam en route. Constructed between 1960 and 1971, the High Dam collects and stores water over a number of years so that the annual Nile flood can be controlled. We will have a panoramic view of Aswan to the north, and Lake Nasser to the south. This evening, we will attend the Sound & Light Show at Philae Temple. The temple is situated on an island, and we have to take a boat to get to the site. Overnight at the Iberotel Aswan.

Feb 10th
This morning, we travel by small boat across the River Nile to the west bank. From here, we travel by camel across the sandy desert to the Christian Monastery of St Simeon. Before we begin this easy trek we'll learn how to ride a camel. Our trek is about 45 minutes to the monastery, and then 15 minutes back to the riverbank.

Dating from the 6th century, and in use until the 13th century, the Monastery of St Simeon is one of the best preserved Christian sites in Egypt. Inside, we will see the chapel, living quarters, kitchen and dining areas, wine press, bake area and storerooms. We will also see the remains of some Coptic frescoes -- depictions of Christ and saints as well as many geometric patterns.

From here, we board our boat and ride among the islands dotting the Nile. Up the hill, above the river, is the Mausoleum of the Aga Khan, spiritual leader of the Ismailis, a Shi'ite sect based principally in India but with followers around the world. The tomb is an elegant pink granite structure of late 1950 origin.

The main island is called Elephantine Island because many of the rocks look like elephants bathing in the Nile. We will arrive at the beautiful Kitchener's Island where we will have time to stroll through the rich botanical gardens with trees, plants, and bushes.

At around midday, we board our Nile cruise vessel, and enjoy lunch on board. This afternoon, we have a choice between a free afternoon either on board the ship (which will remain docked in Aswan until tomorrow), or travel to the town of Aswan. This sightseeing will likely include the 'Unfinished Obelisk', the High Dam, and Philae temple. Overnight on Nile cruise aboard the M/V Grand Princess - Miss Egypt.

Feb 11th
We will make a stop and visit the Temple of Kom Ombo. In ancient times, Kom Ombo was strategically important as a trading town on the caravan route from Nubia to Cairo. Kom Ombo, actually two temples in one, is dedicated dually to Haroeris and Sobek, respectively the god of the sky and the crocodile-headed-god. Here, we will be able to see the remains of a mummified crocodile. Crocodiles no longer exist in the Egyptian part of the River Nile, but in Pharaonic times they lived here in great numbers and were worshipped as gods.

From Kom Ombo, we continue along the River Nile toward Edfu. As the largest and most completely preserved Pharaonic temple, albeit Greek-built, Edfu is dedicated to the god Horus. Construction of this temple began under Ptolemy III Euergetes I in 237 BC. We will allow time to explore this massive and impressive site, enclosed by walls and flanked by two large pylon gateways. Here we will also be able to see a Nilometer -- an ancient technique of measuring the Nile's water fluctuations and setting the level of taxes. Overnight on Nile cruise.

Feb 12th
Nile Cruise: Luxor Temple
Today, we visit Luxor Temple. The temple was dedicated to the Theban Triad of Amun, Mut, and Chons, and was built during the New Kingdom. The annual Opet Festival, in which a cult statue of Amun was paraded down the Nile from nearby Karnak Temple to stay there for a while, with his consort Mut, in a celebration of fertility. Luxor temple is considered one of the largest ancient Egyptian temple complexes situated on the eastern bank of the river Nile. At the entrance is a huge tower built by King Ramses II. We disembark our cruise, and move to the Sonesta St George in Luxor.

Feb 13th
This morning, we make an excursion the Valley of the Queens. After crossing the Nile, we will board our bus for the short journey to visit this wonderful necropolis on the western shore of the Nile.
The Valley of the Queens was used as a burial site for the royal women of the 18th, 19th and 20th Dynasties. Ancient Egyptians called this place "Set Neferu" meaning Seat Of Beauty, and today only a few of the eighty tombs are open to the public. We will visit 3 tombs. The Valley of the Queens holds far more than graves of queens.

As well as our visit to the Valley of the Queens, we will also have a guided tour of the workers' village and the Madinat Habu temple. Madinat Habu, also known as the temple of Rameses III was known in ancient times as Djanet, and according to ancient belief, was the place were Amon first appeared. Both Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis III built a temple dedicated to Amon here, and later Rameses III constructed his larger memorial temple on the site. Overnight at the Sonesta St. George in Luxor.

Feb 14th
Early this morning, we cross the River Nile by boat to the West Bank where the wealth of antiquities is outstanding. On the other side, we will meet our transport for our excursion into the Valley of the Kings. We will accomplish part of our journey today by donkey. We'll "saddle-up", and begin a leisurely ride through the New Gourna Village and into the countryside. Avoiding the busier road, we will look into quiet village life along the way before re-uniting with our road transport for the final leg into the Valley of the Kings.

Once in the isolated valley, dominated by large pyramid-shaped mountains, we will have a guided tour of three of the many tombs that are here. The valley was the burial ground for kings throughout the New Kingdom. Some of the tombs have steep stairways, and all are quite dark inside. We'll proceed to the funerary temple of Queen Hatshepsut -- the first woman to rule as pharaoh. We'll have a tour of this impressive complex, discovered in the mid-19th century and still under restoration.

After our tour, we return by minibus through the countryside back to the river and the East Bank. Tonight, we'll watch the Sound and Light show at Karnak Temple. Overnight at the Sonesta St George in Luxor.

Feb 15th
This morning, we'll visit one of the most fantastic archaeological sites in the world: Karnak Temple. Karnak was built, added to, dismantled, restored, enlarged and decorated during its colourful history of over 1,500 years. At certain points in Egyptian history, this temple was the most important in all of Egypt. When we arrive at the temple, we'll see the grandeur of the tremendous pylon gateway, and the Avenue of 1,000 Sphinxes that originally ran all the way to the Nile and Luxor Temple. We will have a guided tour of the complex, massive by any standard. In the afternoon, we visit the excellent Luxor Museum. Overnight at the Sonesta St. George in Luxor.

Feb 16th
This morning, we travel to Cairo and proceed to the famous Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, where we see some of Egypt's most beloved treasures. Among the 100,000 pieces housed on the museum's two floors is the famous exhibit of Tutankhamun whose tomb was discovered by Howard Carter in 1922. The tomb and treasures of this young Pharaoh, modest by Pharaonic Egyptian standards, is perhaps the best preserved of the discovered tombs. We also will see archaeological relics from the Old Kingdom, Middle Kingdom, New Kingdom, and Greco-Roman periods. We then proceed to Islamic Cairo where we will tour the Citadel, begun by Saladin in the 12th century. Today, the Citadel's buildings are mainly from the Ottoman period, and are truly grand. From the Citadel, actually a complex of three mosques and four museums, we will enjoy an amazing view of Cairo spread beneath the hilltop. Here, we will see the fabulous Mosque of Mohammed Ali, also known as the "Alabaster Mosque." Later this evening, we fly by Kenya Airways Flight 321 at 11:25m to Nairobi, arriving at 8:45am the following morning.

Feb 17th
Today, we arrive in Nairobi, the capital of Kenya.
Part of Maasai land when the British arrived, this modern capital grew with the development of the railway. Derived from a Maasai word meaning "Cold Water," Nairobi is a pleasant mix of colonial British with modern and traditional African influences. This evening, we enjoy dinner at the famous Tamarind Restaurant. Overnight in Nairobi at the Nairobi Hilton.

Feb 18th
Today, we travel from Nairobi, through the "White Highlands," so called because of the large number of Europeans who settled here, northwards to the Samburu National Reserve arriving in the mid-afternoon. En route, we stop for lunch on the lower slopes of Mt Kenya where we may catch a glimpse of the glaciers coating the summit of Africa's second highest mountain.

The Samburu Reserve is mainly semi-desert savannah plain with the seasonal Ewaso Nyiro River supporting a wide variety of game such as elephant, buffalo, cheetah, leopard and lion, as well as dik-dik (a tiny antelope), and warthog. On our afternoon game drive, we'll almost certainly sight elephant, giraffe and gazelle. Overnight in the Samburu National Reserve at the Samburu Sopa Lodge.

Feb 19th
Today, we have a full day of game viewing in Samburu National Reserve where we have a good chance of seeing the so- called "Northerns" -- the Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe and the blue-legged Somali ostrich -- species of animals found only in this dry area of Kenya. In addition, crocodiles can often be seen along the river bank.

This afternoon, we may have an opportunity to pay a visit to a nearby Samburu village. The Samburu are semi-nomadic pastoralists well-known for their proud adherence to traditional tribal customs and elaborate personal adornment. Overnight in the Samburu National Reserve at the Samburu Sopa Lodge.

Feb 20th
This morning, we will depart for the lower slopes of Mt Kenya, rising to 5199 m (16,728 feet), Africa's second highest peak. Our drive will take us into the Central Highlands, the heartland of the Kikuyu people. This is a very fertile region, well-watered, intensively cultivated, and thickly forested. The land was coveted by the Europeans who began arriving in ever-increasing numbers once the railway through the area was completed. The settlers established coffee and tea plantations on the eastern slopes of Mt Kenya and cultivated wheat on the western slopes. The higher regions of the slopes are left to the leopard, buffalo, lion and elephant.

Tonight, we overnight at a "Tree-Style" lodge, uniquely designed and situated to provide one with a close-up view of a wide variety of wild animals as they come to drink and cavort. We might take a guided nature walk offered by the lodge. All rooms have a waterhole view, and en suite facilities.
Overnight in Mt Kenya Conservation area at the Serena Mountain Lodge.

Feb 21st
This morning, we travel to Lake Nakuru, a shallow soda lake in the Rift Valley. The Rift Valley was created millions of years ago under the strain of enormous volcanic eruptions which resulted in a giant split in the earth's surface from Syria to Mozambique. Lava flowed into the valley, forming escarpments on either side of the gigantic trough which can be up to 80 km (50 miles) wide, big enough to be visible from space. At the lake, depending on the water levels, we may have the opportunity to see up to two million flamingos, in addition to the over 340 species of birds that have been recorded in the Rift Valley.

Lake Nakuru is very shallow and can fluctuate up to five metres (12 feet) each day. This is one of the best places in Kenya to view the rare White Rhino as we explore the park on our afternoon game drive.
Overnight in Lake Nakuru National Park at the Lion Hill Lodge.

Feb 22nd
Early this morning, we depart from Lake Nakuru National Park, and continue our journey through the Rift Valley, passing by Lake Naivasha and nearby Mount Longonot, a relatively young volcanic reminder of the Rift's violent past. We arrive at our lodge in the Maasai Mara National Reserve in time for lunch.

The Maasai Mara is a natural extension of the Serengeti eco-system and has an amazing concentration of wildlife. The largest population of lions in Kenya is found here, along with large herds of plains game. The Maasai Mara may also be the best place in Kenya to view cheetah. Later this afternoon we enjoy another game drive. Overnight in the Maasai Mara at the Mara Sopa Lodge.

Feb 23rd
The Maasai Mara National Reserve consists of rolling grassland, and is located at the northern end of the Serengeti Plain. Considered the best of Kenya's parks, it is on the pathway of the yearly wildebeest migration. "The Mara" sustains all of the "Big Five" -- lion, elephant, leopard, rhinoceros and buffalo -- as well as an astonishing wealth of herding animals and other wildlife. Maasai men and youth can be seen along the road tending their cattle and goats.

In the Mara, we will have an optional opportunity to ascend over the northern Serengeti at daybreak in a hot air balloon. From over 300 m (984 feet) above, we'll be able to view the vast land and the myriad animals that inhabit the Maasai Mara. During our stay in the Mara, we will enjoy a full day game drive in Africa's most famous game park. Overnight in the Maasai Mara National Reserve at the Mara Sopa Lodge.

Feb 24th
After breakfast, we depart for Nairobi. En route, just outside the capital, we visit the Karen Blixen Museum. Baroness Karen Blixen-Finecke emigrated from Denmark to Kenya in 1918 and, in 1937, wrote under the pseudonym, Isaac Dineson, "Out of Africa." The novel tells the tale of the Baroness's experiences on a Kenyan farm. Her home is now a museum, restored to the style in which she maintained it. Overnight in Nairobi at the Nairobi Hilton.

Feb 25th
Today, we travel south from Nairobi to the Amboseli National Park. Just across the border from Tanzania, this park is situated on the African plain at the foot of snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro, the continent's tallest mountain at 5894 m (19,300 feet). Here the cone-shaped mountain seems to hover majestically over the shimmering African plains.

The Amboseli National Park is also famous for its large herds of elephants. Here they cover themselves in red dust, giving them an even more imposing appearance. On this afternoon's game drive, we hope to view animals grazing on the open plain with Mt Kilimanjaro providing the classic backdrop. Overnight in the Amboseli National Park at the Amboseli Serena Lodge.

Feb 26th
This morning, we cross the border into Tanzania and travel to Lake Manyara National Park via the town of Arusha, the starting point for the northern safari routes of Tanzania. Manyara is the smallest of the northern parks in Tanzania (330 sq km, of which two thirds is the actual lake) hosting a wide variety of vegetation, ranging from savannah to ground water forest to riparian habitats. The park is host to thousands of pelicans, ibis and flamingo that can be heard from afar. Other common visitors to this beautiful lake are hippos and the majestic African fish eagle, which can be seen swooping down from its perch to snatch a fish from the still waters of the lake.

After lunch, at our lodge we will have an afternoon game drive in the park, located at the base of the Great Rift Valley escarpment and comprising of forest, woodland, grasslands, and swamps. Wildlife interest at Lake Manyara is not confined to bird life only; animals such as buffalo, elephant, giraffe, impala, hippo and a great variety of smaller animals also inhabit the park. Overnight in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area at the Lake Manyara Serena Lodge.

Feb 27th
This morning, we enter the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, a beautiful rolling landscape with periodic views over the Ngorongoro Crater. Before descending onto the Serengeti Plain, we'll stop at a viewpoint overlooking the crater. The name "Serengeti" derives from a Maasai word meaning "Land-without-end." This is a land of superlatives, both in the vast landscape that surrounds us, and the incredible biodiversity it supports. It is here that we have a chance to witness one of the most compelling natural dramas on earth -- the annual migration, a sight unparalleled anywhere in the natural world. Our afternoon game drive provides an excellent introduction to this fantastic landscape, and the biodiversity it supports. Overnight in the Serengeti National Park at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge.

Feb 28th
Today, we have another full day of game viewing on the Serengeti. We will visit the "kopjes," a series of low, incongruous hills dotting the open landscape that often provide a vantage point for hungry predators contemplating the endless stream of hoofed animals parading past them. Depending on the season and the timing of the rains, up to 1.5 million wildebeest and a half a million zebra embark on a single-minded, and perilous quest for water and grazing land. Following this spectacle, of course, are the meat-eating opportunists, hoping to capitalize on the physical toll this journey exacts on the desperate grazers. Even outside of "migration" time, large herds are still seen as they bear their young and feed, gaining strength for their annual return to the park's northern reaches. Resident species that do not migrate make for rewarding animal viewing in any season. Overnight in the Serengeti National Park at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge.

Feb 29th
Travelling back to Ngorongoro today, we make a stop at Olduvai Gorge, site of the Leakey excavations in the 1960s and 70s that established this region as the prehistoric habitat of some of the earliest species of hominids. Some of the finds date back 1.8 million years. Experts in the life sciences have argued that the Olduvai contribution to the story of human origins remains unsurpassed by any other prehistoric site in the world. A small museum on site outlines the unique geological and human history of the area.

Called the 'eighth wonder of the world', and stretching across some 8300 sq km, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area boasts a blend of landscapes, wildlife, people and archaeology that is unsurpassed in Africa. The volcanoes, grasslands, waterfalls and mountain forests are home to an abundance of animals and to the Maasai. Ngorongoro Crater is one of the world's greatest natural spectacles, and its magical setting and abundant wildlife never fail to enthrall those who see it. Balance of the day will be spent enjoying our lodge overlooking the crater. Overnight in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area at the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

March 1st
Today, we enjoy a half-day tour in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. After an early breakfast, we descend into the crater far below for a game drive in this incredible setting, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We explore the Ngorongoro Crater, 20 km (13 miles) wide and 700 m (2,300 feet) high, where we may see the "Big Five" as well as many herbivores like wildebeest, gazelle, zebra and hippopotamus, as well as thousands of flamingos on Lake Magadi.

In order to reduce congestion and stress on wildlife, the Tanzanian government limits visitors to half-day visits of the crater. Depending on what time "window" we are assigned, our excursion may take place first thing in the morning, or later in the afternoon (both of which are equally advantageous for game viewing, given the relatively mild climate at this altitude). Overnight in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area at the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

March 2nd
This morning, we descend the Ngorongoro Highlands, retracing our steps back to Arusha via a lunch stop at Gibb's Farm. Founded during German colonial times and still privately owned, Gibb's Farm is now a small hotel perched on the outer slopes of the Ngorongoro Highlands, surrounded by coffee plantations with long views over lush and beautiful agricultural country.

We pass again through the town of Mto Wa Mbu ('Mosquito Creek'), famous for its lively cosmopolitan atmosphere and red bananas, which taste the same as regular bananas but their skins are a startling bright red. We arrive back in Arusha later this afternoon. Overnight in Arusha at a Mountain Village.

March 3rd
This morning, we fly to Zanzibar and transfer to our hotel in Stone Town. Zanzibar is an archipelago made up of Zanzibar and Pemba Islands, and several islets. Zanzibar Island is 96 km (60 miles) long and 32 km (20 miles) wide, occupying a total area of approximately 1040 km sq (650 sq miles). It is characterised by beautiful sandy beaches with fringing coral reefs, and the magic of historic Stone Town -- said to be the only functioning ancient town in East Africa.

Zanzibar's local people are an incredible mixture of ethnic backgrounds, indicative of her colourful history. Islam is the dominant religion, and practiced by most Zanzibaris, although there are also followers of Christianity and Hinduism. Population is estimated at 800,000, with the largest concentration being Zanzibar City, which has approximately 100,000 inhabitants. Zanzibaris speak Swahili (known locally as Kiswahili), a language spoken extensively in East Africa. Many believe that the purest form is spoken in Zanzibar as it is the birthplace of the language.

This afternoon, we have a walking tour of Stone Town, the old city and cultural heart of Zanzibar, little changed in the last 200 years. It is a place of winding alleys, bustling bazaars, mosques and grand Arab houses whose original owners vied with each other over the extravagance of their dwellings. This one-upmanship is particularly reflected in the brass- studded, carved, wooden doors -- there are more than 500 different examples of this handiwork. Our tour takes us to the House of Wonders, the Palace Museum (People's Palace), the old slave market, the Arab Fort, and the Hamamni Persian Baths. Stone Town has some excellent gifts shops with plenty of souvenirs and handicrafts to choose from.
Overnight on Zanzibar (Stone Town) at the Zanzibar Serena Inn.

March 4th
This morning, we visit the Jozani Natural Forest Reserve located in the central east region of Zanzibar Island, home to the rare red colobus monkey, endemic to Zanzibar. These monkeys are full of character and roam freely. They can also be seen at very close quarters just outside the reserve's perimeter and are incredibly photogenic. Jozani is home to other species including Syke's monkeys, small buck and bushpigs. Most of the houses that can be seen today were built in the 19th Century when Zanzibar was one of the most important trading centres in the Indian Ocean region. The coraline rock of Zanzibar was a good building material, but it is also easily eroded. This is evident by the large number of houses that are in a bad state of repair. Several buildings have already been renovated, and the Stone Town Conservation Authority has been established to coordinate the restoration of the town to its original magnificence. Overnight on Zanzibar (Stone Town) at the Zanzibar Serena Inn.

March 5th
The history of Zanzibar would be incomplete without a 'spice tour.' Cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper and many other spices were as important to the Sultans of Oman as the infamous slave trade. They can be seen in the plantations just outside Zanzibar town, and our morning tour includes opportunities to dazzle the senses with fresh spices. A detailed description is given about a variety of spices and their uses in cooking and cosmetics. It is fascinating the sheer number of spices produced, and their incredible value for many ailments and culinary applications. We then travel to our resort-style hotel located on a beach outside of Stone Town. Overnight on Zanzibar at the Sultan Sands Island Resort.

March 6th
A day at leisure to enjoy the beach and to rest up after our journey... Overnight on Zanzibar at the Sultan Sands Island Resort.

March 7th
We'll have some free time this morning before our afternoon departure from Zanzibar to Nairobi, and Nairobi to Amsterdam. The first flight is aboard Precision Air Flight 6715 leaving Zanzibar at 6:40pm, arriving in Nairobi at 8:20pm (seats needed). We then take KLM Royal Dutch Flight 1566 at 10:55pm, arriving at 5:30am in Amsterdam. We then take Air France Fight 1241 at 9:30am to De Gaulle Airport in Paris, arriving at 10:45m on the 8th. This is the longest set of flights on the trip, so we're staying in Paris on the 8th.

March 8th
We're probably going t be too tired to do anything much on the 8th in Paris. Overnight at the Radisson Blu near the Airport.

March 9th
Our Air France Flight 84 leaves De Gaulle Airport at 10:40am, and arrives at SFO 1:25pm.

Monday, Nov 28th, Tulum, Mexico

2011-11-30T01:50:00.009-03:00

Greetings!

Last week, we flew to the Quintana Roos coast of Mexico - to the Tulum ruins and a 6-room resort called Villa Las Estrellas. We've seldom experienced a more beautiful short vacation, and we recommend it to anyone. With a stunning beach experience, great food, and the best accommodations, we kept pinching ourselves to make sure we weren't dreaming.

My only disappointment was that I didn't try the kite-surfing. It was only windy enough one of three days we were there, and we had planned excursions which made the timing impossible to take the full 6-hour lessons. It's going to happen, just not on this vacation.

To see the full set of photos, click on: Our Tulum Vacation

Gregory

Sunday, Nov 13th, Costanoa, South San Mateo coast, California

2011-11-13T21:36:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

The San Mateo coast seems to rival those in Sonoma and Mendocino. Today, we got to see what it presents to the Kayak surfing crowd here. With Santa Cruz so close by (they invented kayak surfing), it is no surprise that the contestants at a locally-sponsored, surf kayak contest were top notch participants.

After stopping at the Bakery in Davenport, we just happened upon the final day at a prime spot just north of Davenport where the contest was being held. Ever since Pat and I took a five-day sea kayak training up in Vancouver, I've toyed with the idea of seeing if it can help keep me in the water and getting the exercise I think I need. Today has again stimulated my interest. But then again, there's always kite surfing too. Both sports help me avoid the basic problem that my body (and stomach) just can't paddle in either a prone position (or on my knees) to make surfing a real possibility. Kayaks and kite surfing depend less on the muscles I've turned into fat, and more on arm and upper back muscles (still strong).

Here's a link to the photos we took today: San Mateo Coastal Adventures

Tomorrow, we're driving home. It's been a wonderful trip, has proven once again how strong our love is for each other, and has given us another set of amazing memories to try to remember years from now. Hopefully, these photos will give us some clues. Hope you all (or as they say where we've just been "y'all") have enjoyed them too.

Gregory

Saturday, Nov 12th, Coastanoa, South San Mateo County, California

2011-11-12T21:13:00.007-03:00

Greetings!

In one of the better decisions we have unmade lately, we did not go to the Montecito Lodge at King Canyon today. Told we couldn't get there with the Airstream, and planning on buying and being prepared to attach chains to the Touareg for the 9-mile trip up the one-lane, once-a-day, snow-plowed road up to the Lodge (after leaving the Airstream at a RV Resort a few miles down the mountain), we decided to pass on the experience.

Instead, we drove up to Gilroy, and headed to the coast for lunch at the Davenport Roadhouse. They really have remodeled it well, and the food wasn't bad either. Twelve miles up the road is Coastanoa Lodge and Camp, used by Coastwalk for several years as part of their many coastal hiking adventures. In addition to a great set of lodge facilities, the 40-acre property (surrounded by 30,000 acres of parks) consists of twelve fir cabins, 87 tent bungalows, and spaces for dozens of RVs and tents. We're perched within view of the Pacific, and are currently sipping wine and reading in the warm setting sun.

We'll drive into Pescadero and the coast north of here tomorrow, and enjoy the last nights on the road. Monday, we'll drive home to Santa Rosa.

Here are the remaining photos from today:Costanoa Lodge and Camp and Sunset.

Thursday, Nov 10th, Desert Hot Springs, California

2011-11-11T02:07:00.005-03:00

Greetings!

Well, I got to play a round of golf this morning, and I'm very grateful to Pat for pausing her reading enough to do the laundry while I did. In the afternoon, we drove over to Palm Springs to visit the Agua Caliente Museum of the Cauhillo Tribe. Pat bought a pot by Lois Flores, and we discovered they featuring an exhibit on the Kashia Pomo including many works from the Hudson Museum and from Kathleen Rose Smith. Kathleen is a local, Sonoma County, descendant whose mother and grandmother made some of the best Pomo baskets. We also saw a great video made by the University of California at Berkeley in 1964 on the tribe.

On the way over and back, we traveled through what seemed like the largest concentration of wind turbines ever constructed. Some seem to be operating fully, but others stand like metal scarecrows in a field (lots of them). it caused us to wonder if there is some requirement that inoperable turbines be removed. Our nightmare is that someday, whole valleys and hillsides be populated by our fancy but poorly conceived energy alternatives.

Here is a link to the rest of the photos we took today Desert Hot Springs.

We have no idea where we're going tomorrow. it could be Hwy 395 to Lone Pine. It could be Pismo Beach to try kitesurfing. It could be Santa Barbara, and then Santa Cruz. We have agreed that we'd like to get home on Tuesday, however, a day earlier than we planned. We both have meetings that evening we'd like to attend that we hadn't planned on.

Gregory

Wednesday, Nov 9th, Desert Hot Springs, California

2011-11-10T02:19:00.008-03:00

Greetings!

A relatively short drive (400 miles) was made more difficult by several stops to watch workers repair potholes. It appears that some of the federal shovel-ready stimulus program monies found their way to Arizona and California, as a couple of sections of our pathway were being worked upon today. I did get a few photos of the teamwork required to fix a pothole on a federal highway. It's easy to rag on Arizona, but since their voters recalled one of the leaders in their State Senate in the anti-immigrant movement today, we should give them a break. We bought some gas near the border today, when we probably could have waited until we got to California. Hope they use my gas taxes to train highway patrol staff to back off on requiring identification of "suspected hispanics".

Arriving at 3pm, we unhooked the trailer, checked out the laundry for use tomorrow, and scheduled a tee time in the morning. Then we drove into town, bought some groceries, saw a movie for $2 (The Big Year), and found a great little Mexican restaurant for dinner. We're thinking of heading to Santa Barbara on Friday.

Again, not many photos. But we're having fun slowing the pace Desert Hot Springs, California.

Gregory

Tuesday, Nov 8th, Kingman, Arizona

2011-11-10T01:41:00.007-03:00

Greetings!

A long 485-mile driving day has taken us to Kingman, Arizona. We decided that the weather wasn't bad enough to force us to take a more southerly route, and we're experiencing 37-46 degree days with some gusty winds. We can handle that easily, and our only snow was on a side trip to near the top of a local peak.

Of course, New Mexico and Arizona elevations in general are in the 5-7,000 foot level, so there's bound to be some potential for cold and snow, especially this time of the year. I forget that those states are so much higher than California. Since we were car-bound all day, the only photos in the collection are of the landscape and some Airstreams we found in the RV Resort.

We did encounter an interesting couple who were curious about Airstreams. One of the photos (I'll include it in this post) shows their ride, and it's just a bit too small for their needs. Constance came over and knocked on our door, asking to see the inside of ours. Restraining our eagerness to gush over about how great it is, I gave her a tour while Pat was using the resort facilities to shower (why not use their hot water?). She and her husband, Mark, are from the San Juan Islands (one of our favorite places), and share other interests of ours. We encouraged her to check into both this blog, and Coastwalk, and we hope our paths cross again soon.

Tomorrow, we'll head toward a two-day stay in Desert Hot Springs, where there's a resort with a nine-hole golf course.

Here is a link to the photos taken on the way to Kingman, and in the morning before we left On the road to Kingman and Trailers around us in Kingman.

Gregory

Monday, Nov 7th, Albuquerque, New Mexico

2011-11-07T22:14:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

Today was a little bit of housekeeping, and a drive through some memorable sections of Albuquerque and Santa Fe. The Touareg was seemed to be acting like we should check out its fluids. As I have been known to fry cars by not changing the oil, we decided to spend the morning getting all of them changed and topped, while we shopped at CampWorld and Home Depot. We then headed up the Turquoise Trail to re-visit a favorite stretch of road between Albuquerque and Santa Fe.

I've decided that New Mexico has some of the most amazing clouds, with shapes and hues that seem to wrap around the mountains, sun, and moon. You probably noticed a few lately.

The highlight of today had to be the town of Madrid. It's one of several along the Turquoise Trail, and is home to a colony of artists. The first surprise was the best $20 lunch we've had in a long time. The place is Mama Lisa's. The menu isn't complex, mainly stews and salads. However, what they created was very complex. Pat's was green chile, with roast pork loin and green chiles. Mine was Angus beef burgundy stew, with cremini mushrooms, bay leaf and golden rose potatoes. The salad was a perfect combination of lettuce, thinly-sliced carrots and squash, pomegranates, with a rasberry sauce. Add two large lemonades, an extremely responsive waitress, and a six-table well-lighted dining room, and you get lunch heaven. I recommend everyone put it on their bucket list.

The second surprise was that we bought a six-foot alligator juniper (cypress) branch turned into a great piece of art. Kathleen Gronnan and her husband Joshua run this wonderful studio a couple of doors down from Mama Lisa's which features his rock fountains, Sarah Crall's paintings, and a variety of other works by friends of theirs. We saw one similar piece that was sold and being shipped to California. Learning the artist had another one across the street, we went over and fell in love with it too. It's being shipped out next week, and should arrive soon after we get back.

Here is a link to the complete set of photos we took today: Turquoise Trail

We're still unsure if we're leaving tomorrow, or staying one more day. It's getting cold, and we'll sleep on it.

Gregory

Sunday, Nov 6th, Albuquerque, New Mexico

2011-11-06T22:48:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

I'm amazed at how many trucks are tooling down our highways. I know that Warren Buffet is trying to get their cargo into his CSX train, but he must not be making much of a dent. They're everywhere. And I want to thank each and every one of their drivers for the courtesy and good driving habits we've encountered. With winds as high as 50 miles and hour, and construction narrowing the roadway, and signs as confusing as possible, driving with them provides a very safe environment. I'd love to find out what their hauling, because this slice of America has more of my respect than ever.

We made it to Albuquerque at about 3:00 pm. With a time zone change and daylight savings time, we gained two hours. After setting up for a two-day stay, we unhooked the car and headed straight for the Petroglyph National Monument. Open in 1990, we've not been there, and we wanted to see as much as possible before the park closed at 5pm.

We weren't disappointed, and I'm having a hard time cutting out photos from the set I'll put up on Picasa. I am having trouble uploading them to the web, however, so you'll have to make due with whichever ones I try to place into this post.

Here is a link to the photos we took: Petroglyph National Monument

Gregory

Friday, Nov 4th, Van Buren, Arkansas

2011-11-04T20:24:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

Van Buren, where's Van Buren? It's as far west of Lebanon, Tennessee as we could drive today. And Lebanon was as far west of Asheville, Tennessee... (you get the picture). After a adventurous drive through the Smokey Mountains, and a visit to the Cherokee Nation's home town (and buying a couple of pots from their excellent museum), we drove Hwy 40 for the past two days. We're headed to Amarillo where we'll make a decision based on the weather as which highway to get us back to California. We'd rather not drive through snowstorms, and are hoping to take our time on the last few days.

No photos, as I'm thinking you're all getting pretty tired of my shots of our RV sites. There will be some more when we slow down again.

Gregory

Wednesday, Nov 2nd, Biltmore Estate, North Carolina

2011-11-02T20:53:00.008-03:00

Greetings!

Before I share with you our day at the Biltmore, let me provide one more glimpse into the beauty of the North Carolina forests. Here's a 90-second video of the drive along the local highway:

What struck Pat about the Biltmore isn't that it's big, though at over 2 million square feet and 255 rooms, it's clearly the biggest in the nation. The Hearst Castle, sitting on top of a 1,600 foot hill five miles inland from the coast of California on roughly twice the total acreage, appears much more imposing as a residence. It's that Biltmore seems more designed to work as a large residence. With many more bedrooms and bathrooms, it was supported by elevators, forced-air heating, centrally-controlled clocks, fire alarms, intercom system, and a housekeeper's residence containing a turn of the century vacuum cleaner, foxtail duster, and toilet bowl cleaner.

But the young couple, George and Edith Vanderbilt, lived to entertain lots of friends. A bowling alley, exercise rooms, 70,000 gallon heated indoor pool, and one of the finest private, two-story libraries in the world awaited guests.

While photographs inside are not allowed, I did quietly snap some shots with my camera dangling from my neck. The lighting was poor, and most are a bit blurred. While the Hearst Castle grounds are far more intricately-designed, you have to tip your hat to the 100,000 trees planted on the surrounding 8,000 acres (by the designer of New York's Central Park), and the 125,000 acres donated by the family to the Gispah National Forest nearby.

Here's the rest of the photos: Biltmore Estate

Tuesday, Nov 1st, Asheville, North Carolina

2011-11-01T15:58:00.005-03:00

Greetings!

Check out these fall colors on the road to Asheville!

After we got settled in, we drove up along the Blue Mountain Parkway in the Pisgah Forest. Tomorrow, we'll be spending the entire day at the Biltmore Estate.

Gregory

Here are the rest: Asheville colors

Monday, Oct 31st, Charleston, South Carolina

2011-10-31T22:08:00.010-03:00

Greetings!

A South Carolina garden which first featured azaleas and camellias, and a swamp walk where Audubon spent time, were the targets for today. Magnolia Gardens, owned by nine generations of the Draytons, and which evolved from a Barbados sugar plantation owner’s dream to take advantage of the English King’s territorial ambitions into one of the most successful rice plantations in the colonies, was also the site of one of the last battles of the Revolutionary War. Its lowland waterways, fed by an elaborate freshwater irrigation system, provided 150 years of “Carolina Gold” to America as it fought its way from settlement, through the Revolution, and up to the end of the Civil War. Leveled by Union troops, the property rose again when a freed slave whose family had managed the gardens partnered with a rebellious family member whose yearning to become a minister was cut short due to the death of his older brother. Suffering from tuberculosis, and ordered by his doctor to “go get his hands in the soil”, John Grimke Drayton dedicated the rest of his life to creating a world-class, publicly-accessible, Garden of Eden at Magnolia on the Ashley River.

His descendants still own the property, and all gardens in America owe much to the care and dedication demonstrated by them.

Here is a link to the rest of the photos we took (Yes, Pat shot several of these) today: Magnolia Gardens

Gregory

Sunday, Oct 30th, Charleston, South Carolina

2011-10-30T21:18:00.004-03:00

Greetings!

Unfortunately, we're at at RV Resort which has no wifi (and no cable), for three days. And last night, the device aboard the Airstream which is supposed to alarm and wake us up if it detects gas - did so last night, and we couldn't get it turned off. At 7:00 am, it quieted down after an hour of my reading the manual, unscrewing it from the floorboard, and threatening to cut the wires.

We spent the day in Charleston, riding a historic tour bus, and wandering the Charleston Museum. Now at one of three Starbucks near the local college, I'm thinking of bailing on the town early. The old historic homes are very impressive (tightly-packed, and with unique designs), but the rest of the town seems overly commercial. Oh well, I'm sure it's from too little sleep. Pat is answering emails across from me, and we're listening to some Van Morrison and Ferron.

Later today....
The photos taken while riding on the historic tour trolley in Charleston today weren’t that bad. At least you could see the columns and porches and colors. There is one section referred to as Rainbow Row, recalling a Carribean visual influence. So here’s a link: Charleston

We came back to a beeping home, and immediately cut the wires to the offending device. Now we’ll probably just die asleep of a gas leak, even though we’re planning on opening several windows, and sleeping in the cold.

While we wait for our late lunch to settle, we’re listening on the Airstream’s radio to “Wait, Wait, Don’t Tell Me”, after an episode of “Car Talk”, which we also heard this morning while driving into Charleston. Both are excellent, and we have lots of time for good listening.

Charleston has never been shy about picking a fight. In both the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, key local decisions called into conflict what Americans believed in. Standing up first to the British at Fort Sumpter, or seceding from the Union, this town has been the scene of nation-defining arguments. The Charleston Museum is full of detailed descriptions which define very well what the issues were locally, and allow one to better understand these complex conflicts.

Gregory

Saturday, Oct 28th, Tybee Island, Georgia

2011-10-28T21:36:00.005-03:00

Greetings!

We’re watching a Rick Steves’ visit to Tuscany after a great Airstream-cooked dinner of porkloin and rice (with a nice cabernet sauvignon). Pat’s Etruscan genes complemented Steves’ excellent presentation of the food and wine of her grandparents’ home county. I truly believe that the 3rd Century Tuscans left us with some of the finest examples of a civilization whose art, architecture, city planning, and agriculture reached the highest levels.

Teeing off at 9:44am with a couple from Tennessee, I shot pars and bogies at the Wilmington Island Golf Course, and completed the round in an astounding 3.5 hours. That’s partly because there were probably only 30 players on the course today, and because we didn’t stop for lunch. Pat spent the day doing the laundry, comparing notes on travels with two neighbor RV ladies, and reading. When I got home, we walked down to the beach and checked out the shore birds (photos included).

With the last night of the World Series beginning, and a large party going on outside the Airstream, I’ll conclude this. We’re headed to Charleston tomorrow, where we’ll probably spend 3-4 nights before heading up to Asheville, North Carolina. We’ve escaped the cold spell currently storming into New England. Our plan is to fold in behind it, and make a beeline across Hwy 70/80 over the top of Colorado into Utah and down to SF by the 15th.

Here’s a link to the rest of the photos I took today:Golfing and Beachcombing

Gregory

Thursday, Oct 27th, Tybee Island, Georgia

2011-10-27T22:41:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

Yesterday afternoon, we arrived at the Tybee Island RV Resort in Savannah, Georgia after an all-day drive from eastern Alabama. We set up the trailer, walked over to the beach, and had a seafood dinner at the North Beach Grill. We watched the sun go down over the Atlantic as a group of 4H kids assembled in the beach parking lot for a conservation corps-led night hike along the shore. They mentioned that they had spent part of the day cleaning the beach. I think I'm going to like Savannah.

Today, we slept late (9;30am), and then drove into the town from the Island. We decided that the best way to see Savannah is to take a historic tour. It's the kind you can get off anywhere along the 15 stops, and walk around until you want to get back on. We spent the rest of the day riding with hilarious tour guides, visiting old houses and museums, and enjoying the many parks and colonial streets. And we got to see the bench that Forrest Gump sat on in the movie!

I'm having problems uploading photos to the blog tonight, so I'm just including a link to the rest of the photos taken today. There are a few more good ones: Tybee Island

Tomorrow, I may be playing some golf at a local course. Pat is suggesting that she could take the day off and just read on the beach. We'll see if either happens.

Gregory

Tuesday, Oct 25th, Pelham, Alabama

2011-10-25T21:26:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

Monday's trip across the rest of Arkansas, and today's trip south of Memphis, across Mississippi and Alabama, was pretty much a straight drive interrupted by lunch and dinner. We didn't find RV sites with wifi or cable connections, and would have had little to report if we had.

The Parkin Archeological site in eastern Arkansas was closed, as was the Crowley Nature Center fifty miles south. Today, we did enjoy our visit to the Chucalissa Archeological Preserve. It's on the grounds of the first state park named after an Afro-American, and created to allow Tennessee to comply with the "separate but equal" requirements of the laws which were passed in the early part of the last century. Earlier settlements featuring mounds dating to 1000 AD to 1550 AD were found when a civilian conservation corps team began digging a pool on the site. Tribes from the Cherokee, Chicasaw, and Choctaw nations have occupied the site, and it's now managed by an agreement between the Mississippi Band of the Choctaw Indians and the University of Memphis Anthropology Department. We spoke to Park staff about uploading an excellent video they had created recently to YouTube, and I'll be helping them accomplish that when I return.

Tomorrow, we dash to Savannah, Georgia. We've decided to spend a few days there and at Charleston, and save Kentucky and Tennessee until the trip home.

Gregory

Sunday, Oct 23rd, Mountain View, Arkansas

2011-10-23T23:30:00.002-03:00

Greetings!

We walked back over to the Folk Center this morning, and stayed for the day. On the grounds of the Ozark Folk State Park, there are craftshops where dozens of skills are demonstrated from time past and present. We've all been to wood-working shops, but how many of you have met one of the worlds most prolific wooden topmaker? Or had a broom made for you? Or watched a jeweler make a necklace? We did all of those and more today, and listened to music at every turn.

I'm realizing that Arkansas has more going for it than I thought. The natural environment seems great, the people are warm and enjoyable, and the bounty of churches and trucks with NRA stickers isn't that bothersome. We had chicken and dumplings, okra, bacon and beans, and turnip greens for lunch today. We are enjoying ourselves, and haven't run out of things to do yet.

Here's the link to the many photos I took today: Ozark Folk Center Crafts Village

Gregory

Saturday, Oct 22nd, Scott and Mountain View, Arkansas

2011-10-22T23:53:00.006-03:00

Greetings!

How can it get any better than 1,000 year-old native american ruins and a folk music concert? Traveling to Scott, Arkansas, we visited the Toltec Mounds State Park. No, it wasn't built by the same 2nd century AD civilization which constructed mounds, large stone heads and circular time pieces along the Mexican eastern coast. But they thought it had been in the early 1800's when these mounds were discovered. So they name stuck, and the builders of these mounds (700AD to 1050AD) have had to struggle to find their own identity ever since. Thought to be ceremonial structures, their alignment also identifies solstice positions, and are positioned in precise distances from each other.

Heading north in the afternoon (after our fourth Subway sandwich lunch), we arrived in Mountain View just in time to settle in for an evening concert by The Big Smith, held in the Ozark Folk Center State Park auditorium. Hope to post a video slide show featuring blurry but vibrant photos of their performance with some of their music I recorded on my digital audio recorder.

Here is a link to the photos I took today of the Mounds: (Toltec Mounds), and the performance: (The Big Smith)

Here's the link to the video: The Big Smith at the Ozark Folk Center on Oct 22, 2011

Gregory

Friday, Oct 21st, Hot Springs, Arkansas

2011-10-22T00:11:00.009-03:00

Greetings!

I remember Bill Clinton claiming that he was from Hope, Arkansas. Don't tell that to the residents of Hot Springs. Signs at the entrances to the town proclaim it to be the boyhood town of the future President. And a 15-minute video playing continuously at the top of the twelve-story observation tower details his life, together with a glass case of memorabilia from his high school years.

Hot Springs National Park was the first national park in America, and has been receiving visitors from all over the world to its reputedly-healing waters since the early 1800's. Bathhouse Row attracted royalty, Presidents, film stars, gangsters, and most of America's wealthy and ailing elders for almost 150 years. As hiking in the park was an integral component of the health regimen, it began the country's pursuit of the outdoors as vital to right living.

We found a beautiful 210-acre garden, maintained by the University of Arkansas, with even some species Pat hadn't seen before, but which was made even more unique by the presence of 1.7 million light bulbs decorating the trees and shrubs in the figures of Christmas scenes. There must have been 500 miles of wires buried throughout, and it's no doubt the playground of an army of retired guys with wives who have said "Bet ya can't make this!" to them for many years. A real treasure for kids and adults who love a fantasyland of lights.

Tomorrow, we'll drive east to view some Toltec Mounds, and then to an RV campground down by a large lake (Lakes in Arkansas, but then, who figured they had hot springs either?).

Here is a link to the remainder of the photos I took today:

Hot Springs, Arkansas

Gregory

Thursday, Oct 20th, Western Arkansas

2011-10-20T22:26:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

Who would have thought that Oklahoma and western Arkansas would be so green? What we could see from highway 40 was lots of trees, and rolling hills. By the time we got to the highest point in Arkansas (Mount Magazine, 2,753 feet), the scenic highway we were on was enough to slow us down, and amaze us. Here's a shot from the top:

Tonight, we're at the Cloud Nine RV Park in Hot Springs, Arkansas. We'll stay here for two nights, checking out the area's highlights. I hope to take some photos, and spend less time in the car. Then, we're headed north and east to visit some Native American ruin sites, and some parks. After a week in Arkansas, we'll head east to Tennessee.

Gregory

Wednesday, Oct 19th, Oklahoma City

2011-10-19T21:26:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

Well, it looks like the wind turbine blades have stopped rolling past us as we head east. Our guess is that they must be manufactured somewhere around Amarillo, Texas. There was a huge wind farm near there.

Our internet connection sucks tonight, and Pat is very frustrated not gaining access to a game she loves. Driving all day today, there are only memories of how absolutely flat Texas is. Passing through Amarillo, I had some flashbacks about enduring white glove inspections of our barracks while I was stationed at a training base there for six months in 1966.

The good news is that we have fairly good cable reception, and we'll spend part of the evening planning our entry into Arkansas tomorrow. One of the books we have from the Arkansas Department of Tourism describes a natural state golf course trail, and a Bill Clinton Tour. We'll probably stick to the gardens, historical sites, and the wineries/breweries.

Gregory

Tuesday, October 18th, Santa Rosa Campground, New Mexico

2011-10-19T00:04:00.006-03:00

Greetings!

We drove another 500 miles today, and are camped at the Santa Rosa Campground in the center of northeastern New Mexico. I don't remember on previous trips realizing how high New Mexico is. We weren't below 5000 feet all day long, and actually hit 7,000 a couple of times. The mountain rock strata colors are amazingly beautiful. And now we know that the huge wind turbine blades we saw yesterday must be made somewhere east of us, as we saw at least 20 of them being carried on trucks coming at us as we drove east on Hwy 40. I'm going to be curious if this was just a one-day transport blitz of a completed job, or a steady stream to deliver wind power to the west.

A few minutes ago, Pat asked me where we stayed the night after we left San Diego and before last night. Working backward in our minds for a few minutes, including looking at the map and not recognizing any town name, we came to the realization (only by looking at the calendar on our computer) that we were only two days out of San Diego (not three). These have been long days where we only really saw roads, gas stations, and RV parks. I've chosen to only photograph the RV parks, and the rows of customized homes on wheels has been pretty overwhelming.

I'm going to include a link to some photos I forgot to post yesterday from a visit to the Spanish Village near Balboa Park in San Diego. We drove out there on Sunday and walked around some shops where we had once bought some New Mexican pottery.

Spanish Village, San Diego Zoo

Gregory

Monday, Oct 17th, Distant Drums RV Resort

2011-10-17T22:39:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

El Centro probably existed when I grew up in San Diego, but I’m sure it wasn’t until the major east-west freeway out of it was named after the town that San Diegans became aware of it. Heading east for Phoenix, we topped off the gas at the first Native American truck stop, and headed to El Centro. Up through ridgeline wind turbines towering over boulder piles scattered along the highway. In one stretch, Imperial and San Diego counties traded border signs six times, and we kept an eye out for what could make each of them care for this arid and isolated area. Something must be happening here, for we saw three new sleek helicopters dangling skyhooks or perched on rock platforms ready for service.

Yuma is 33 miles ahead, and I must have missed seeing the exit to El Centro. I have a feeing that someone from CalTrans probably named the freeway to honor the only thing out here. A few miles further, the road comes to within a half-mile of the U.S. Mexico border, crossing the Rio Grande east of Sand Dunes State Park. Wethe mny who have made the journey across these sands.

We drove all day today, and arrived at Camp Verde, Arizona about 5pm. It's in the middle of the state between Phoenix and Flagstaff. The Distant Drums RV Resort is homebase to a huge collection of enormous RVs, and their owners have been very welcoming. The sunset from the pool deck, as we drank beer and chatted, was spectacular. Would have been better if I'd remembered to bring my camera from the car, but I did find a photo online to show you what it looked like. We were pleased the temperature had dropped to the mid 70's this evening.

Tomorrow, we're aiming to get to somewhere east of Albuquerque. We're hoping the next night we'll be in Arkansas.

Gregory

Saturday, Oct 15th, PLHS Reunion

2011-10-17T22:28:00.002-03:00

Mike Russell, Keith Darracq, Alex McDougall, and Blaine Roberts.

Greetings!

The PLHS 45th Anniversary Reunion was held tonight at Nick's at the Pier, and those in attendance had a great time. My reluctance to take flash photos in the evening light probably doomed a large photo video, but I have some hopes that the several other attendees with cameras caught enough to make an enjoyable collage of our classmates. I'll post them as I get them to a Picasa album, and send you al a link to it.

Imagine ninety faces whose eyes and smiles haven't changed much in 45 years, now beaming back from bodies which have, but are still holding up. Small clusters of 4-6 spread all over an upstairs bar sitting our standing with drinks and hors d'oeuvres (a little slow in arriving - sorry), and re-visiting old stories and new rumors. Will Point Loma really close? Fortunately, english lit teacher and baseball coach Kermeen (Punkie) Fristrom and his wife were there to straighten us out again. Though some reorganization may occur in the junior high schools in the area, PLHS will stay the same design and open.

In the end, the comments all seem to include the agreement at some point in the evening that we had a pretty good education. Sadly, most also agreed that schools in recent years would not be given the same grades. Many thanks were given to the Reunion organizers for an excellent evening, and all seemed to be encouraging a more robust effort for the 50th. At least three classmates volunteered to join the Reunion Committee.

Gregory

Oct 14th, PLHS Homecoming

2011-10-17T22:27:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

This evening, I went to the PLHS Homecoming game. Kim Melhorn, our favorite Alumni coordinator, stood near the front gate with a Pointer sign she had made today, greeting alums and letting them know there would be a parade at half-time, and that they were invited to participate. I took the opportunity to check in with her about the Reunion, and then went off to see if I could capture the game in photos.

Here's the result. Hope you enjoy it.

PLHS Homecoming Game, Oct 14th, 2011

Gregory

Visiting the South, San Diego and the U.S.

2011-10-09T16:43:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

Yes, we are driving our Airstream to San Diego this week for the Point Loma High School's Class of 1966 45th Year Reunion. We'll be there until Oct 16th, when we'll then head east to Arkansas to begin a month-long journey throughout most of the states that Pat and I haven't spent much time in. Tennessee, Kentucky, North and South Carolina, Georgia, and others as we pass through them will be featured on this blog daily.

We've sent for lots of info, are reading and watching videos, and hope to be able to catch all of the interesting places and events along the way. If you know of a place on our route which you think we should consider, please include your comments below.

There are folks staying at the house while we're gone, and we appreciate their dedication to our enjoyment. Our fish and plants add their appreciation too.

Gregory

2011 Fall Strawberry Music Festival

2011-09-05T13:10:00.002-03:00

Greetings!

We took another Airstream adventure this past weekend to the Fall 2001 Strawberry Music Festival at Camp Mather near Yosemite, California. It was great, and I made a short video which is posted on our MobileMe Gallery. You can also see the entire collection of photos at: 2011 Fall Strawberry Music Festival

Gregory and Pat

July 14th, WorldFest Music Festival

2011-07-15T15:15:00.006-03:00

Greetings!

Well, we're on the road again in the Airstream. When e bought this, we said, "Gee, wouldn't it be great to go to a summer music festival, and live in the Airstream?". The World Music Fest in Grass Valley, California, is our first test. Three of our couple friends are here with us (Richard and Brenda Nichols, Jon and Vina Breyfogle, and Tom and Vivian McFarling). We're having lots of fun enjoying four days of great and varied music from performers from all over the world.

We arrived yesterday afternoon, set up in our RV site, and heard some great music from Cafe Musique, Bluehouse, and Delhi 2 Dublin. Her is a link to the WorldFest Music Festival website, and to the photos I took last night.

Gregory

Well, time flew by, without a wifi connection at the concert, and the 15th Annual WorldFest is over. Here is a link to the YouTube photovideo I made of the four days of music and dance. We're really glad we went, and will be looking for other opportunities to go to music festivals in our Airstream.

15th Annual WorldFest

Friday, May 6th, Over the Hill Gang Rally, Mission Bay

2011-05-06T23:06:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

Our RV Park was invaded last night by members of the San Diego Over the Hill Gang. Hope you enjoy the photos of their cars. Some very cherry rides, by some great guys (Friday, May 6th, Over The Hill Gang Rally, Mission Bay.

Gregory

Wednesday, May 4th, Downtown, Ocean Beach, and Point Loma.

2011-05-04T22:45:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

Around lunchtime, we headed off to downtown San Diego in search of a lost step-brother. When my mom remarried in 1956, my step-father brought along a son named Tom. Tom grew up in New Jersey, and his mother brought the family plenty of difficult years. After a divorce in which his father was given custody, Tom and his dad came west to California. Working at Convair where my mother worked, Bill Kissel and my mother fell in love and were married.

Seven months older, and eight inches taller, Tom was a quiet and unimposing influence on my life. My mother favored me, and Bill favored Tom. But it wasn't really that clear, or at all apparent. And it was okay by all of us.

We both played little league (we went by the fields today). We both hunted and fished with Bill. But I don't remember Tom much during high school, and we didn't see each other after high school.

So it was a big surprise when I found his address, and a short note he had written to her before she died, in the materials from her home after she died. While she indicated to me that she had had no contact with him for many years when I would visit her during her last decade, the truth was that she knew exactly where he was living and it would seem had helped him move at least once.

Armed with the address, I decided before I started off on this trip that I would deliver some old photos of the two of us, as well as some drawings he had done in junior high, to him. I knew that he had become a mental health system client as a result of a terrible reaction to LSD in the late 1960s, and was prepared for news that he had died or was severely out of touch with reality.

To my happiness, we found his address, and saw his name thinly scratched into the lid of the mailbox. Unfortunately, the only resident of the apartment building we could find did not know him. Kitty suggested we ask at the Liquor store on the corner. The owner knew him well, had cashed his SSI check yesterday, and confirmed that he sometimes appeared too angry and confused for someone without problems. Armed with the certainty that he did in fact live next door, I left the photos and drawings in the mailbox with a note from me explaining who I was and how to contact me if he chose to. I'm happy to have found him alive, and hope that the materials remind him of the relatively good times we had together.

Kitty and I then headed off for Ocean Beach, where we had lunch at the foot of Newport Avenue overlooking where I spent thousands of hours surfing and drying out on the sand. After lunch, we spoke to the manager of the upstairs restaurant (Nick's) about the possible use of it for my 45th Class Reunion. Then we drove a few blocks away to the Ocean Beach Recreation Center, where we spoke to the manager on the same subject. I feel much more prepared as a result for a planned discussion with the Reunion Committee tomorrow afternoon.

On the way home, we stopped by Kim Melhorn Jessop's house to check with her on PLHS Reunion Committee activities by other classes at PLHS. Kim has been the PLHS Alumni Association staff member for many years, and was helpful in all of our past reunions. I have been serving on her advisory committee for a few years, and we have worked together to locate our graduation class members.

One last contact was made before we arrived back at the Airstream. Frank Gormlie, one of our class leaders, and a committed community activist in Ocean Beach, returned my email message with a phone call. We had been playing email tag for a while in an attempt to find a time when we could get together. Kitty and I will be going to his house after the Reunion Committee meeting tomorrow to meet with he and his partner, Patty.

We're now sitting in the trailer, reading and posting. Dinner awaits, and so does a suggestion that we swim in the bay in front of our site. I'm going to stop this posting, and we'll see what happens.

It's very strange, but I don't seem to be interested in taking photos here. I think this is more about my looking than about my taking photos. To view the few photos I took of the Pointer statue at PLHS today, click on: Wednesday, May 4th, Point Loma High School Pointer Dog

Gregory

Tuesday, May 3rd, Old Town and La Jolla by bus

2011-05-04T14:41:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

It's been a lot of fun accompanying my aunt Kitty this week. We were together early in my life, but her life from about seven until she left La Jolla at 19 was very much without me. Yesterday, we rode the bus route which she and my grandmother often rode (#30) with an all-day pass. She made a point to talk to the bus drivers and tell them how friendly their predecessors once were to her, thanking them, and indicating how much of an impression they had made on her as a young child. The route goes between downtown, passing by Old Town (a favorite spot), through Pacific Beach, Bird Rock and La Jolla. We traveled to Old Town, visited the shops and museum, and then had lunch in the oldest building in San Diego. We shared a delicious vegetable salad, constructed corn carnitas, and sipped some great local beer after being treated to a tasting. The restaurant was called the Cosmo, and it's on the grounds of Old Town. They've restored it beautifully to its early 1854 standards, and I recommend it highly.

Next, we rode north to Bird Rock, where we walked through our old neighborhood. I am amazed at Kitty's recall of every house on the street, and every family who lived there during her childhood. The stories she tells about their lives as kids, and the lives of their families. She knows everything about La Jolla in the 1950's, and it was fun for me to see her mind wander back to all those old memories.

She was surprised and pleased by my boldness in approaching the open front door of the house we grew up in. It actually wasn't hard, since it looked very inviting. And when Bob and Kathy Brese asked us to come in, Kitty and I immediately began sharing with them our memories of their house, and marveling at the changes they had successfully made to improve it. Our total thanks to their generosity, and our hope they enjoy many more years in the home.

Continuing on to the heart of La Jolla, Kitty showed me her nursery school and lots of other places where important moments in her life occurred. Every storefront on the main downtown streets held stories, and the children of each business owner became real to me as she related their adventures with her. We ended our day by walking from the cave near the cove to the children's pool, watching and talking with many new residents and visitors, and our memories of swimming and playing on the beaches and parks along this coast.

Unfortunately (and probably predictably), my camera battery didn't hold the charge I had given it when we got to La Jolla. It may be the universe telling me I can't capture the scenes in our heads, but the scenes before our eyes were pretty nice anyway. La Jolla has changed, but we were able to find some glimpses of yesteryear which would have been insightful.

To see the few other photos from yesterday afternoon, click on: Tuesday, May 3rd, Old Town And La Jolla By Bus

Gregory

Tuesday, May 3rd, Mission Bay Campland RV

2011-05-03T16:09:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

The Campland RV Park, at the north end of Mission Bay, is perfectly located for us to revisit our childhood haunts. As Kitty and I lived north of here, and I moved south with my mom to a military academy in first grade (a shopping center is now there), an elementary school east of here, and another elementary school, junior high, and high school south of here. It's noon, and we've begun to settle into the site. Showered and into fresher clothes, we're ready to see our old stomping grounds by day.

Gregory

Monday, May 2nd, Los Angeles to San Diego

2011-05-02T22:01:00.006-03:00

Greetings!

It's been three days since my last post, and we've had lots of fun since then. On Saturday morning, we discovered that the coast of Big Sur was closed, partly due to the Big Sur International Marathon being run (It's the same one we drove through many years ago, Patricia) south of Carmel, and mostly due to landslides on the coast near Alder Creek and Rocky Creek (click on: Big Sur Blockage). Traffic headed south is routed from Hwy 1 to Hwy 101 as far south as Paso Robles and Hwy 46. We took the route and made it all the way to San Simeon and the Hearst Castle by 1:30pm. We boarded the 2pm tour, and spent the next two hours on the mountain. Kitty had never been there, and I thoroughly enjoyed introducing her to this prized State Park property. As she noted, her view of WRH and Miriam Davies came from "Citizen Kane,"and both seem much more interesting characters as a result of the tour. And who knew about the architect, Julia Morgan? Initially intending to just check out the Visitor Center, I left my camera in the car several hundred yards from it. Racing to the 2 pm tour, I chose to visit the castle without it. You'll just have to take my word that it's worth seeing.

We arrived at the Pismo Beach Sands RV Park after their registration office had closed. Thankfully, they left a note about where we should park, and all the instructions we needed to file registration information in the night deposit box. With no wifi, we read, watched tv, and talked until bedtime.

Sunday morning, we slept until 10 am. Hitching up the trailer, we drove slowly down the coast to northern Los Angeles. We visited Solvang, had lunch at Carpenteria State Beach at a really great local restaurant a block from the beach. Kitty had a huge taco salad, I had shrimp and chips, and we stopped afterward at a Vons Market to re-stock some of our food supplies.

We arrived at Kitty's son Austin's house in northern Los Angeles around 6 pm. We had called ahead, and had planned to park in front of his house on a dead end street for the night. While the space was there since the neighboring house was vacant, the street was really narrow. It appeared impossible to turn around, especially since there were cars parked all around us.

Once we relaxed, with the encouragement (and great planning and logistical support from Austin), and after contacting and coordinating the movement of neighborhood cars, we got it facing the opposite direction on the other side of the street only partially blocking the driveway of some very nice neighbors. The three of us then walked to a restaurant (Milli's) about a half mile away, where we learned of Osama bin Laden's death (a phone call from Morena). We watched a bit of it on the restaurant's tv, and then ordered huge salads and excellent Estancia Pinto Noir.

Returning to the house, we talked for an hour, and then turned in. We hooked up the Airstream's electricity to Austin's house, and read for a little while. This morning, we headed south, meandering through the south coast's beachside cities. Kitty and I shared stories of our lives in them as 1960s teenagers. We pulled into Campland on the Bay RV Park a few hours ago, disconnected the Airstream, and have spent the last couple of hours scoping out the park and the resources for us here. Kitty is sitting across from me at this moment, using the MacAir to learn all about public transit in San Diego, and how we might use it to get around.

I'm sure we're going to have lots of fun here. We'll be leaving on Friday morning, and will drive back up to Austin's in one day or two. On Sunday morning, I'll be leaving there to drive back home. Austin will get Kitty to LA Airport on Monday morning for her flight to Boston.

For a link to the few other photos taken today, click on: Monday, May 2nd, San Diego

Gregory

p.s. This post has benefited greatly from the editing on Kitty.

Friday, April 29th, Santa Cruz & Carmel

2011-04-30T03:05:00.002-03:00

Greetings!

My Aunt Kitty and I drove to Santa Cruz and Carmel today, on our first leg of our journey together to San Diego. The Boardwalk at Santa Cruz was beautiful, and Kitty kept remarking on how it was so clean. Evidently, Lowell and the Boston area gets dirty often, what with all that winter snow and rain, and few city dollars to repair things.

It must have been an unofficial day off from school, because there were lots of school kids enjoying themselves. I got to play with the new camera lens we bought for our trip next January to Africa. It has very good focusing on telephoto, quick action shots. I experimented with shots with lots of movement, and I'm pleased with the results. I think we can capture on film those scenes of animals fleeing our jeeps.

Tonight, we had dinner at a restaurant in Carmel (Merlot). Kitty had rabbit, and I had pork loin. Hers was excellent, mine had too much fat. We treated ourselves to ice cream cones after, and had a great walk along the beach at sunset.

Tomorrow, we're headed down the Pacific Coast Highway through Big Sur to Pismo Beach. I've got a reservation at Pismo Sand RV for tomorrow night, and then we'll shoot for Austin (Kitty's son) in LA for Sunday afternoon late. We'll be parking on the street that night, and heading to San Diego's Mission Bay on Monday.

We're having a lot of fun together. When my mom left home with me (after Brown Military Academy, where according to Kitty, I was the cutest cadet in first grade), she (Kitty), we sort of lost touch with each other. Kitty went to school in La Jolla, and I bounced around and ended up in Point Loma. She knows our old neighborhood much more than I do, and it will be fun to go back with her this week and re-visit it.

For a look at the photos taken today, click on: Friday,April 29th, Santa Cruz

Gregory

April 15th, Home Again

2011-04-16T03:28:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

A relaxing morning until 10am, then to the town's recycling center to deposit the visit's contributions, then to the Airport to drop off the car, and to the flight to drop off the luggage - and fly home.

With all our experience traveling, can you believe we picked up the wrong Eagle Creek luggage in SF, and brought it all the way to Santa Rosa before we discovered the mistake? The Troths waited at the SF Luggage Claim until it became clear that the lonely Eagle Creek bag's owners must have picked up theirs. A voicemail from them was waiting for us, and Pat will drive down to SF Airport tomorrow to return theirs and pick up ours. And we thought our bag was so easy to spot. We were in such a hurry to catch the 8:30pm Airporter that I grabbed what I thought had to be ours, and ran.

It even had similar shoes inside when we opened it. The Troths were very understanding, and we do apologize.

But it is good to be home. Art and Anne picked us up at the Day's Inn, and have no idea until they read this of the mixup.

There are a couple more photos of this very cute gekko from the Ili Ili Beachhouse this morning at: April 15th, Home Again

Gregory

April 14th, South Kona, Hawaii

2011-04-15T01:50:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

Okay, now for a little history on the last day before we leave. I can't go to a place, even one as well known as Hawaii, and not try to learn something new about it. We're staying just south of Capt Cook, a small coastal town on the west side of the Big Island. So the history lesson is about the big guy. And big he was (6'4"), a scottish farm boy raised in Yorkshire. If his sailing and surveying prowess hadn't been proved in the 1750's and 60's while fighting my french ancestors at the Fortress of Louisbourg and in Quebec during the Seven Years War, he would never have been given command of the HMS Ships Endeavor and Resolution. Contracted at first by the Royal Society to observe and record the transit of Venus across the Sun in the Pacific, he spent most of his time surveying the coastlines of eastern Australia, New Zealand, and the islands of the Pacific.

His second voyage took him further south to find for the Society a mythical continent beneath Australia. Sailing eastward under the Cape of Good Hope, staying close to Antarctica, he thoroughly explored the waters south of Australia and New Zealand, but found nothing before continuing east under South America and home to England.

On his last voyage, he made for Tahiti to return a young native who had served as an interpreter for Cook on his second voyage. But the real reason Cook embarked to the Pacific with dispatch was to try to find the Northwest Passage through Canada. Upon reaching the western Canadian coast, he found both the Bering Sea and the local natives to be unyielding. He did, however, map the North American northwest coast for the first time and determined the extent of Alaska.

But it is what happened next which matter to us. On the way up from Tahiti, Cook became the first European to visit Hawaii. He sailed into Waimea Harbor on Kauai in January of 1778, and named the archipeligo the "Sandwich Islands" after his sponsor, the fourth Earl of Sandwich. On his way back home from Alaska, he sailed around the island of Hawaii and into the harbor just north of our beach house. To his fortune, Hawaiians were celebrating Makahiki, a harvest festival in which the return of a God (Lono) was celebrated, and island circumnavigation was a common practice. The month-long stay of Cook and his crew must have rocked the cove north of us, and his departure at the end of the ceremony would have been one to witness. However, the mast on the God's ship broke, and they soon returned to the cove. Quickly, relations broke down with the locals, and the second departure didn't go as smoothly. When a group of natives stole a rowboat for its nails, Cook tried to lure a chief to his boat to hold him hostage for the return of the boat. At the shorebreak, the Chief's wife pleaded for him to stay home, and things got out of hand. As Cook turned to push his own boat through the surf, a member of the tribe struck him the head and another stabbed him in the back. Cook was taken, and his death and the disbursement of his body parts has been recorded in many texts of the time. Hawaiian culture would accept that he was given the burial accorded all Kings, where storage of royalty was treated not unlike our disbursement of bones of Catholic Saints to shrines all over the world. After a time, some parts were returned to the Ship for a proper sea burial just outside the cove. An obelisk stands at the Harbor head in memory of Captain Cook.

We drove Ken and Dianne to the Airport, and then drove down along the coast to the point where in 1819, forty years after Cook's death, a revolt took place after the death of King Kamehameha. Some in the ruling nobility had had enough of the old ways and the old religion. The family's separate warrior forces had it out on the lava pictured above, and 300 (including the next King and his mother) are buried in cairns just above the surf. Before the missionaries arrived to change the lives of Hawaiians, they were making big changes themselves.

There are a few other photos taken today, and they can be seen at: April14th, South Kona, Hawaii

We're flying home tomorrow morning. Pat will be in her garden on Saturday, and I'm playing in a golf tournament at the Bennett Valley Golf Course.

Mahalo

Gregory and Pat

April 13th, South Kona, Hawaii

2011-04-14T04:18:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

Another day (and one of the last) in Paradise. Today was the big drive around to Hilo and back. Our targets were three waterfalls, a garden, and lunch on the eastern shore of Hawaii. We had included the Mauna Kea Observatory, but had to scrap it due to a gas shortage (ours in the tank, and there being no stations in the middle of the island).

As it turned out, we were on the road for ten hours, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. The Hilo are is full of green, lush, tropical areas just ripe for hiking and photographing. The best snorkeling and swimming seems to be the Kona side, but the Hilo side also has its advantages.

Ken and Di are flying to Maui tomorrow, and we'll be staying one more day here and then flying home on Friday. We've really enjoyed (again) our travels with them, and are planning our trip together to Africa next year.

Thanks again to our other partners, Art Kane and Anne Kain for our wonderful first week in Hawaii. We look forward to more travels with them too.

To see the many photos we took today, click on: April 13th, South Kona, Hawaii

Gregory

ps. And for those who reviewed yesterday's post early in the day, check it out again. I added many more photos later in the day.

April 12th, South Kona, Hawaii

2011-04-12T16:30:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

Dianne and I share phobias concerning wasps stemming from childhood encounters, but she is also sensitive to spiders. I have to admit not looking forward to walking into huge webs (did you see "The Fly"?). So it as to our great amazement (and some trepidation) that the trees alongside our house contained many versions of a very beautiful spider, which I'm including here. It's been fun watching their yellow colors seem to get brighter each day, and the large "X"s on their web expand. They are called "Saint Andrew's Cross".

Our drive yesterday took us to up the coast to have lunch at a huge resort (Mauna Lani), and to many small town antique, book, and craft stores. We also went whale watching, and were treated to a breach of the kind that photographers dream of. However, seeing it as we sped between lava mounds along the road made it impossible to capture. By the time we got to a turnout, it had gone deep. We did hike and drive into several great viewing points, and the coast was gorgeous.

Today is a snorkeling day, after breakfast and lazing around for half the day. But hey, that's Hawaii.

And ... it's Tuesday. The snorkeling and dinner at Bubba Gumps were both great. Here's some photos.

To see the photos taken yesterday and today, click on: April12th, South Kona, Hawaii

Gregory

April 10th, South Kona, Hawaii

2011-04-11T04:15:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

As I left my camera battery being charged in the beachhouse, you'll just have to imagine all of the great photos which could have showed volcano calderas, lava tubes, fern forests, and rock petroglyphs. We got a late start today, while Ken and I watched the last round of the Masters Golf Tournament. Our timing was perfect, however, to finish the long walk along the lava-strewn eastern coast of the island to a wooden boardwalk surrounding hundreds of 400-700 year old rock carvings before darkness made the walk back difficult.

The only resource somewhat lacking on the southern coasts of the island seems to be restaurants. We've stocked up on groceries, however, and making some very enjoyable meals at home.

Pat came up with a great idea on how to make sure to remember to replace the battery in the camera in the morning after charging it at night. Take the lens off the camera, and place it near the battery charger.

Four more days in Paradise.

Gregory

April 9th, South Kona, Hawaii

2011-04-10T03:43:00.005-03:00

Greetings!

Arriving yesterday, Ken Di, Pat and I drove south from the Kona Airport to the condo we're staying in for the next week. It's one of a few houses at the base of a long hillside subdivision, and sits on a bluff above a black pebble beach cove. We moved in, and explored the beach and surrounding area. We have few neighbors, unless you count the Hawaian mongoose and the hundreds of fish we found while snorkeling this morning. We drove to a beach with green sand today. It was at the southern most point of the United States, and directly (and quite a ways) north of Antarctica. It felt like a cold, stormy day at Point Reyes or Bodega. But it was warm and muggy.

We'll be exploring the other odd characteristics of this island in the next few days, and having a ball doing it.

To see the rest of the photos taken yesterday and today click on: April8th, South Kona, Hawaii and April9th, South Kona, Hawaii

Gregory

April 7th, Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa, Kauai

2011-04-08T03:43:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

In keeping with my habit of not knowing the real name of the place I'm staying at until the last day, we know end our time at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa. Tonight, we had an enjoyable meal on the deck above the pool complex looking out to the sea, then took our run-soaked smoothies to the huge hot-tub above the waterfalls, and toasted the last couple of days here. Tomorrow morning, Pat and I will fly to the Big Island to stay for a week with Ken and Di in a condo on the beach near Capt Cook. Art and Anne stay here for four more days, and then fly home.

It's been a real success staying and traveling together, and added another set of memories for our always distant old age. The flowers here are just a small sampling of the wild colors seen everywhere one looks, and we have kept waiting for the storm which the news stations have predicted, and which has not arrived yet. We have noted that it will dip into the low 30' tonight at our house in Santa Rosa. Hope the lights are on in the Lemon tree.

To see the photos taken today, click on: April7th, Grand Hyatt Kauai

Gregory and Pat

April 6th, Poipu Sheraton Hyatt, Kauai

2011-04-07T05:36:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

We left Moloaa Bay, visited the Kauai Hindu Monastery, got Julie to the Lihue Airport on time, and then checked into the Poipu Sheraton Hyatt. A more star then we need accommodation, the Hyatt's big screen in every room (and bathroom?) and gigantic, inter-connected pool complex will be home for the next day or two. We had dinner at Joselyn's tonight (great chef who used to be at the now-defunct Pacific Cafe), and the tapas-based menu did not disappoint.

To see the rest of the photos taken today, click on: April 6th, Poipu Sheraton Hyatt, Kauai

Gregory

ps. to Thomas and anyone else who wants to use the photos from this blog with attribution, go right ahead. We're glad you're enjoying them, and hopefully it will help stimulate your adventurous spirit.

April 5th, Moloaa Shangri-La, Kauai

2011-04-06T04:17:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

I finally read the Check-out instructions for this place and realized I was spelling the name incorrectly. After breakfast today, we called all over trying to find a place to snorkel on the North Shore. Finally, we found a number for the Lihue Fire Department (on the east coast of Kauai), and they gave us the number of the Kauai Fire Department Ocean Protection Unit Supervisor. He's the guy whose unit makes the decisions to close beaches, and whose staff we ran into at Ke'e Beach two days ago. In the meantime, a major storm out in the Pacific has kicked up the wave heights to 10-15 feet on our coast. Nothing is open, and they advised us to head to Poipu on the south shore if we wanted to snorkel.

So we left at noon for Poipu State Beach, and were not disappointed. Julie and Anne's wish lists to see lots of colorful fish were satisfied, Pat enjoyed another couple of hours relaxing on the beach reading, and I got to boogie board and snorkel on a beach that we'll probably spend even more time at on Thursday and Friday when we stay at the Poipu Hilton.

Soon afterward, we drove up Waimea Canyon looking for great views on an overcast, rainy day. A rainbow at one overlook, and a brief break in the clouds and mist gave us at least enough not to be too disappointed.

Tonight, we do laundry and try to eat everything we bought. Tomorrow, we check out and take Julie to the airport for her flight home. The rest of us head for Poipu for to days, and then Pat and I fly to the Big Island on Friday afternoon.

To see the photos taken today (great rainbow shots), click on: April5th, Shangri-La, Moloaa, Kauai

Gregory

April 4th, Shangrila Moloaa, Kauai

2011-04-05T03:51:00.002-03:00

Greetings!

Well, let's get the really great news out of the way first. This morning, Mark Cooper of Titus Kinimaka Hawaiian School of Surfing (Titus Kinimaka Hawaiin School of Surfing)helped an old guy who has memories of surfing as a teenager, but whose atrophied body and serious gut have prevented him from overcoming nightmares of personal failure in the waves. An couple of hours of a refresher course on the beach, and in the small waves just east of the Hanalei Pier, on a twelve-foot extra-wide rental board, gave me just the renewed confidence I needed to start off on a new determination to get in shape and return to my first love. Once the lesson was over, I paddled out to the outside break about a quarter mile away. Passing boats and kayakers, and a occasional large turtle headed for the beach, I set my goal as having the strength to make it out to where the larger waves broke, to an environment familiar to those old memories. While I'm still too weak to feel confident dropping into good positions in the sets, I was able to find a couple of shoulders out of the way of the regulars to prove to myself that I was up to the challenge. Paddling back into the beach was a bit harder, as the wind and exhaustion played a big part.

This time, there are no photos of this experience (Pat and friends were home having breakfast), but stay tuned in the next year and they will surely show up in this blog.

So what are all these photos? On Sunday afternoon, the Ka'ie'ie Foundation (Keepers of Ancestral Inspired Education) hosted a Lu'au and Cultural Celebration of Hawaiian and Cherokee Indian Traditions. A couple of years ago, the Foundation dancers (Halau Palaihiwi O Kaipuwai) were invited to attend a Pow Wow of the Eastern Band of the North Carolina Cherokee Nation. This year, their Ani Kituwah dancers were invited to the Taro Patch in Anahola. At the end of a long river valley, reached by a trail alongside the river, the taro patch has been transformed into a gorgeous venue for community gatherings and musical celebrations. The meal was great, and the friendship and spiritual sharing expressed by the singers and dancers was exceptional.

This afternoon, it was more searching for waterfalls, snorkeling beaches, and an occasional shirt-shopping and ie cream/shave ice consumption. What a tough life.

Tomorrow morning, we're off in pursuit of a good snorkeling beach, probably Ke'e.

To see all of the photos taken in the past couple of days, click on: April 4th, Shangrila Moloaa, Kauai

Gregory

April 2nd, Shangrila Moloaa, Kauai

2011-04-03T06:18:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

Over the last two days, we've driven the northern coast of Kauai, never too far from the Shave Ice stand called Wishing Well. Our friend, Art Kane, has a goal of getting a shave ice each day for lunch. The strange experience of being dished by the lady proprietor of the Wishing Well while ordering strange combinations of flavors (usually including ice cream and shaved ice) is high on his daily wish list. Keeping up with the trials of his favorite baseball team, the Chicago Cubs, is a close second.

We've also sought to satisfy several other wish lists. Anne Kain's was finding a house she once rented on the north shore, and getting to swim at a favorite beach at the end of the road (Ke'e beach). It had to be restricted to a shorebreak swim, as the local lifeguards had closed the beach to snorkeling and reef swimming due to strong currents. We augmented it with a swim today at a beach south of there (Anini Beach), where the snorkeling was substandard. Pat's wish list was partially filled by a visit today to the Limahuli Gardens, where native and invasive species from all over Hawaii were painstakingly planted up a river valley near the cliffs known for their portrayal in the movie Bali Hai.

I'm still waiting for Julie's wish list, though snorkeling rates very high, and I'm sure we'll find a better place to actually see some fish. Mine involves testing my belief that I still can surf if given the right tools for how long it's been since I tore up the waves, and for the girth I've developed. Monday morning, the local Quicksilver shop is hooking me up with a group called the Titus Kinimaka Hawaiian School of Surfing, and we're headed out to Hanalei Bay Pier with a few longboards, and a standup paddle board, to see if I can get my body to remember how its done.

We'll report back on how much of our wish lists get fulfilled. The weather has been great, the house owner has been responsive to fixing the things that this demanding group of residents expect, and we've got three more days of paradise to explore.

To see all of the photos taken over the past two days, click on: April 2nd, Shangrila Moloaa, Kauai

Mahola

Gregory

April 1st, Molooa Shangrila, Molooa Bay, Kauai

2011-04-01T00:19:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

We flew to Hawaii today, and will be staying here for the next five days. Then, we'll drive down to the Poipu Hilton for a couple of days, before flying off to a week near Capt Cook, on the Big Island. This week, Art and Anne Kain, and their daughter Julie McClure will be with us. Next week, Pat's brother Ken and his wife Dianne will be with us.

I plan on spending some quality time in the water, and Pat and I both will be trying to get rid of the colds we've had since we returned from Asia a couple of weeks ago.

In a few minutes, we're walking down to the beach nearby, to check out the place, and prepare for a latenight sojourn with flashlights to see the turtles nesting.

To view all the photos I tok today, click on: April1st, Molooa Shangrila, Molooa Bay, Kauai

Gregory

Using Travel Information

2011-03-24T18:56:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

To Alex and others who have asked if they may use the information and photos from our blog, all information may be used with attribution. We're glad you are enjoying what we provide, and look forward to your helping us circulate it to others.

Gregory Fearon
Pat Kuta

Sunday, March 6th, Santa Rosa

2011-03-06T13:33:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

Well, we made it home. Not without some drama, as usual. Gazing out the new Hong Kong International terminal window, we got to see smoke rising from the plane on which our baggage was being loaded. As hundreds of other passengers watched in fear, fire engines and emergency vehicles surround the plane, hoses aimed at the location of the smoke. It turned out to be a hydraulic line in one of the service vehicles near the plane, but it sure did excite all of us for about ten minutes.

The pilot used the jet stream to make up for the hour's delay, and we landed in San Francisco on time. Our journey from Bangkok to Hong Kong, to SF came to a great conclusion as we boarded the Sonoma County Airporter bus for the final leg of our trip home. Thanks much to Anne and Art Kane who met us at the Day's Inn, and drove us to our house.

The conventional wisdom says that travelers should stay up until the normal bedtime on the day you arrive after a long sleepless flight, in order to help your body readjust to the sleepwake cycles. Pat and I tried it for a few hours, and finally fell into bed about 6pm. It's hard for us to handle thirty hours awake, even if you have a bunch of movies and unpacking to fill the time. We slept for about 8 hours, and woke up at 3am to read and watch some of the zillion hours of taped television shows awaiting us. I never did get around to working on the video of the alms-giving to the monks in Laos that I was prepared to do on the flight home. Despite having the time, equipment, and quiet space, I chose watching movies to making one. I'll get to it this week.

A few minutes ago, I put away the MacAir. I'm typing this on the MacPro on the couch in the bedroom in front of the television. We now have the dilemma of having the photos from the latest travel adventure on the MacAir, the two year's on the MacPro, and the previous two year's photos on the IMac. I'm sure I saw something in a recent MacWorld on how to easily transfer photos between each of them. In order to improve my chances of making some good movies from the entire pool of photos, I'll be looking into how to do that. Any good suggestions from those with experience would be appreciated. Drop me an email at gfearon@sonic.net

Next adventure is Hawaii for a couple of weeks in about three weeks. Then, it's a long spell of Sonoma County until next January when we take off for Africa for somewhere beyond six weeks. Kenya, Tanzania, and Madagascar are certain. South Africa and Namibia are hopes to include, but could easily become another trip.

Gregory

Friday, March 4th, Luang Prabang

2011-03-04T02:20:00.000-03:00

Greetings!

We're ready to fly to Bangkok today, and have had a wonderful time here. Thanks very much to Travel Indochina.

Here's a link to the photos taken yesterday: Thursday, March 4th, Luang Prabang

Wednesday, March 2nd, Luang Prabang

2011-03-02T11:33:00.005-03:00

Greetings!

We had breakfast at a river café, and then went to visit some Wats and a cave today. Almost everything of interest in the town has something to do with Buddha. Palaces, temples, stuppas, and caves all come down to where people have placed statues of Buddha. This all started in the third century BC, when some monks carrying a breastbone of Buddha came from India. They convinced the locals to build a tall, spire funeral temple (Stuppa) around it. About 15 centuries later, the local King married a princess of the Kymer civilization (which dominated all of Southeast Asia), and she converted him to Budhism. He built a bigger temple (wat) around the earlier one, and his successors built lots more during the next 500 years.

Unfortunately, the subsequent leaders of Laos lost many fights to the leaders of Siam in the 1800s. They sacked the Laotian kingdom in the early 1800’s, taking over 100,000 residents back as slaves to Thailand. Only a few of the Buddhist wats survived. Fortunately, one thing France did well for Laos was to undertake a reconstruction of the wats. The current government is continuing the efforts, and celebrated the 450^th anniversary of the unification of Laos (1560) last November with the opening of several and the dedication of a couple of statues to key historical figures. The celebrations will continue in April when a 13^th century Buddha statue from which the town gets its name (Luang means town, Prabang means peace. The statue’s open, displayed palms express the hope for peace) will be carried from its present location in a procession around the town, placed in the square for three days, and then taken to its new permanent home in a large gold-painted and leafed restored wat.

This evening, we took tuk-tuks out of town to a beautiful resort in the forest, where we attended a cooking class in Lao foods, and then ate what we prepared. It was wonderful, and I look forward to Pat utilizing the ideas she picked up.

Photos of most of these wats can be seen in the photos taken yesterday and today at: Wednesday, March 2nd, Luang Prabang and Wednesday Evening, March 2nd, Luang Prabang

Gregory

Tuesday, March 1st, Luang Prabang

2011-03-02T11:31:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

Laos has gone from an royalist agrarian society to a Buddhist 21^st century tourist mecca, guided by state control, but driven by enthusiastic resident consumer expectations. Luang Prabang is the heart of its tourist cash cow, populated by craftspeople, bedroom renters, restaurants, tuk-tuk drivers, and night market saleswomen. The slow pace, opportunities to interact with lots of monks and novices, and river-focused views and sunset boat trips, make it a place at the end of the world where you haven’t really left it.

In a few years, when Chinese investments have built high speed rail systems, and dams to the Mekong River to generate electricity to sell to Thailand, the standard of living and quality of life might change. But for now, the elements of peace and an egalitarian system seem to be all around us. That, and really cheap, high quality living.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on: Tuesday, March1st, Luang Prabang

Gregory

Monday, Feb 28th, Vientiane

2011-02-28T09:14:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

We slept in this morning, had breakfast at the hotel, and read newspapers, emails, and Laos history until we were to meet out tour guide and new group. It turns out there are 13 of us, and our tour guide Anita is another young Australian. She and our local guide, Pim, took us on an afternoon of temples, an orthopedic limb center (COPE), and to a local house where a good-wishing ceremony (baci) was held for us. After a quick rest, we all went to a local restaurant to have dinner and get better acquainted.

The group is well-traveled, as usual, and I have once again failed to learn all of the names and hometowns on the first night. Pat is better at these initial conversations, and I have come to learn it's better to let her have the lead on first contacts. I did end up in the spotlight, however, when the birthday cake arrived and all wished me well. The chocolate was especially rich.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Monday, Feb28th, Vientiane

Gregory

Sunday, Feb 27th, Vientiane

2011-02-27T11:28:00.002-03:00

Greetings!

Today, Travel Indochina picked us up at the hotel and took us to the Saigon Airport. We boarded a Vietnam Airlines jet, and flew to Phnom Penh, where we deplaned and had lunch. Then, we boarded another jet, and flew to Vientaine, Laos. Once there, TI drove us to our hotel. What made a rather boring set of flights more interesting was our seatmate for the whole ride, Luu Ngoc Diep. Luu is the Manager for Operations Planning for ANZ, a rather successful bank operating throughout Southeast Asia. She's a perfect example of a young executive who's destined for great things. She's obviously been targeted by the bank for senior management, and has a deep understanding of both her business field and her culture. We were very impressed by her, and are looking forward to a visit if she is ever in California. We understand that a position with the company in Houston may be in the offering, and that's not so far away.

TI's brochure has a few quotes that Pat says I should throw into the post once in a while. Here are a couple I agree with.

The true traveler is one who goes by foot, and even then, he sits down a lot of the time. Collette.
Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness. Mark Twain.

Wanting to get a shot of the sun setting on the Mekong Delta on the riverfront of Vientaine, we walked about a mile from our hotel soon after we arrived. The town is building a walking promenade almost the length of the town, but has only finished about half of it. Even still, it's was exciting to see how many families were out in the early evening using every square foot of it to play sports (badmitton, soccer, skateboard, bike acrobatics, par course exercise, and stationary health gym workouts); social engagement (plenty of Sunday night teen pickups and dates); and business enterprise (selling from mats and stalls every craft and food item).

We stopped at a small restaurant, and drowned some fresh spring rolls, cucumber salad, and noodles with pork in two large Laos beers. I have to apologize for the fuzzy quality of the photographs taken tonight. I could blame it on trying to take too many night shots with slow shutter speeds, but the truth is that being a bit tipsy made holding my balance harder on the way back. Think of them as art photos portraying the ambience of the night.

Though there were very few others, here's a link to all of the photos - Sunday, Feb27th, Vientaine

Gregory

Saturday, Feb 26th, Saigon History Museum and Zoo

2011-02-26T05:46:00.005-03:00

Greetings!

First, let's get to the key issue. What's with paying thousands of dong for everything? The exchange rate is 21,000 dong to the dollar. That means you're carrying around millions of dong in your pocket. While it does inflate your sense of worth to be paying 180,000 dong for a bottle of wine, you come down to earth when you realize it's still only $9. The hard part is when you haggle over 1,000 dong because you think that 1,000 of anything ought to be worth haggling over. Not when it's 5 cents, and especially not when it probably means an extra meal to that guy you're arguing with. Vietnam ought to get rid of a couple of zeros on their currency.

After catching some of our friends leaving over the past day, we took off for a day at the Saigon Museum and Zoo. I think it's a testimony to the tour that I felt that I knew most of the information which the Museum presented. From the 54 ethnicities and eight languages, to many dynasties and emperors, to the inter-relationships between Kampuchea, Champa, and the Viets. I won't say their was nothing new there, but most of it was old hat by now.

The zoo, on the other hand, contained some animals I hadn't seen on the tour. I enjoyed the Indochinese Tiger, several deer species, and the beautifully colored egrets. And though there was a porcupine which looked like ours, most more resembled what Pat hates - opossums. And my favorite friend was there to remind us to slow down and enjoy the ride - the orangutan.

It being Saturday, we saw several wedding photos being organized around the Church and the Park on our walk back to the hotel. One even had to dodge the street cleaner to get her's taken. We're getting used to dodging motorbikes and cars crossing the streets, and probably will miss the thrills when we get home. Tomorrow, we fly to Vientiane, Laos for the next adventure. Not sure if there will be wifi during the whole time, but we'll catch up in Bangkok on Friday night before our flight home. A week from today, we'll be home.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on: Saturday, Feb 26th, Saigon History Museum And Zoo

Gregory

Friday, Feb 25th, Saigon to Vung Tau

2011-02-25T08:45:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

With our friend Marlene as our Tour Guide, we took a taxi to the waterfront hydrofoil this morning, and headed downriver to the seaport of Vung Tau. The hydofoils are relatively smooth and quiet, especially if you're in the front section. The window sashes aren't very well constructed, as I found out by breakiing the rod trying to open it. Of well, there wasn't much to see on the ride, and scratched clouded glass made it even harder. But we suspected that viewing wasn't on most passengers priority list, as most just relaxed or slept.

The real sightseeing began when we arrived. Vung Tau is a great little town, full of wide, clean streets and brightly colored houses and shops. It's like Saigon might look like if you got rid of 90% of the taxi's and cars. Beyond that, it has a couple of mountains that provide you with beautiful vistas (for the price of a stiff climb up almost a thousand stairs) of the miles of beaches on both sides of the peninsula.

Marlene had made arrangements through Duc for us to employ a driver and a tour guide for the day, and they did not disappoint us. The OSC Vietnam Travel Tour Leader, Hguyen Quang Trung, even brought along a trainee tour guide, and the five of us made the stops on a well-designed spin through Vung Tau's sites. Before it started, we crossed the park in front of the office (on Front Beach) to watch some of the local fishermen bring in several kinds of large sailfish destined for restaurant tables nearby.

Our tour was delightful, and they were enthusiastic and eager to make sure we saw as much as we could handle before getting us back to our 2:30pm hydrofoil to Saigon. We exchanged cards, and I am interested in corresponding with Trung to help both of us improve our understanding of the Vietnam War. His father fought with the VC in the area I was in, and he seemed quite interested in the photos of children I showed he and his colleagues (never miss a chance to promote historical research). He indicated that once a month, the tour guides get together and hear speakers and learn information from vets who have returned to here. Perhaps I can use that opportunity to circulate the photos and my perception of the experience on vets to the group.

Tonight, we were able to link up with Pat's cousin, Billy Thompson and his wife Maria. Their cruise ship pulled into Saigon this afternoon, and they were bussed up to the Cu Chi Tunnels. Tonight, they got the note we provided to the Palace Hotel, and they were able to walk over to our hotel and knock on our door. We shared dinner at the restaurant, and we were able to spend some time sharing photos and insights into where they're going next in Vietnam (Hoi An anto d Halong Bay). It turns out that our paths will almost cross again when in Hong Kong on March 5th on the way home. We won't be able to see each other, but we'll check in again after we've all settled into our homes in California.

To see all of the photos from today, click on: Friday, Feb25th, Saigon To VungTau

Gregory

Thursday, Feb 24th, Saigon, last day of Vietnam Tour

2011-02-24T11:50:00.002-03:00

Greetings!

Our last day on the Trails of Vietnam Tour took us to another key area of the Mekong Delta today. We began by driving to visit the temple of a relatively new religion in the country - Cao Dai, a syncretist Vietnamese religious movement with a strongly nationalist political character. Cao Dai draws upon ethical precepts from Confucianism, occult practices from Taoism, theories of karma and rebirth from Buddhism, and a hierarchical organization (including a pope) from Roman Catholicism. Its pantheon of saints includes such diverse figures as the Buddha, Confucius, Jesus Christ, Muhammad, Pericles, Julius Caesar, Joan of Arc, Victor Hugo, and Sun Yat-sen.

Plus, it's got great looking churches and a teriffic burial wagon.

We then got down a close to the Mekong by boarding a boat to be able to visit several major river enterprises on its banks. Brick-making, cocoanut growing and product distribution, and fishing were all explored. Lunch was delivered on an island getaway resort which pushed the limits of group transportation, and ended with a walk-in.

Returning to the hotel, we said goodbye to Duc and Quan after their long and dedicated service to the group. We will miss them, and we made plans to stay in touch. The rest of us had some free time, and took the time to make sure all of the arrangements for our homeward flights were in order. Our work includes another tour (Laos) before we depart for home.

This evening, we had a very nice dinner in a private room at the Palace Hotel, overlooking the waterfront lights. We toasted Bec, and thanked her for all of the great work that she and TravelIndochina has accomplished on the tour.

Tomorrow, as others head off to the airport, we're joining Marlene to take a daytrip by hydrofoil to Vung Tau, a beach resort north east of here. We're also trying to connect with Billy Thompson, Pat's cousin, who is traveling with his wife on a cruise ship which is coming into the Saigon Port tomorrow at noon. We hope to have dinner with them tomorrow night.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on: Thursday, Feb24th, Saigon, Last Day Of Vietnam Tour

Wednesday, Feb 23rd, Exploring Cu Chi, and back to Saigon

2011-02-23T12:55:00.006-03:00

Greetings!

We drove northwest to the area of the Cu Chi tunnels this morning. I didn't choose to go down into them. The tunnels are very narrow. My growing butt, waistline, and aching back are reason enough to stay out. Throw in dark, hot, and snakes, ugh. I told Duc the story of the western perception of butt width was the metal plate on the back of the seat in the aircraft I used to make sure were maintained in Vietnam said that it was wide enough for "one passenger or two Vietnamese".

On our return, we visited a rubber plantation, before stopping for lunch at a Pho restaurant. Pho (pronounced "fur") is a favorite soup, and I chose the seafood version on Bec's recommendation. It was terrific, and helped me bring back my appetite. Later, we visited the Reunification Museum. Pat is getting a bit overloaded with the details of Vietnamese propaganda and American trashing/gory details. I found the particular exhibit, organized by the State of Kentucky and presented to Vietnam, on the 78 photographers and journalists works who had been killed during the American War very touching and worth seeing. I may try to get her back to see it after the tour ends. I can understand that it isn't easy to take in.

The afternoon contained some free time. After a short tour of the downtown with Duc., we chose to spend it having finding an ice cream shop with Alan and Dj. The chocolate, strawberry, lemon, mango, and coca cola drinks we had were very refreshing.

This evening, we went to a performance of a very popular waterpuppet show. None of us could figure out how they did it, and probably knowing how would spoil the effect, but to the rhythm of a small band of Vietnamese instruments and vocals - a variety of fish, dragons, birds, and people swam through elegantly-choreographed routines to the delight of a large audience of children and their parents for dirt cheap. We highly recommend it for any traveler.

To see the photos taken today, click on: Wednesday, Feb23rd, Saigon

Gregory

Tuesday, Feb 22nd, Dalat to Saigon

2011-02-22T09:09:00.003-03:00

Greetings!

Today was our longest day in the bus, as we went from the highlands of Dalat to the center of Saigon in the Mekong Delta. 307 kilometers, and the last thirty of it at five miles per hour in very crowded city traffic. Ten million people live in the greater Saigon area, and everyone of them seemed to be on a motorcycle or driving a big truck at about 3:30pm today.

The trip down from Dalat was memorable for me, not because there was anything familiar which I saw, but because I had been there before. At least a dozen times, I flew in a helicopter from Bien Hoa near Saigon up to a small base near Dalat to search for an aircraft part needed by an aircraft mechanic somewhere else in Vietnam. It was cherry duty to have to make that trip, and I'm sure that I probably could have found it any number of other places. But it was there, and Dalat was a cool small french colony in the Central Highlands. And it wasn't being attacked.

At an ethnic village along the way, Duc talked our way into a local one-room school where he took the class over for a round of "Simon says". It was heart-warming to watch kids who probably haven't seen many from beyond Vietnam gawk at their joy and excitement in being good at the new game.

Once before, on a long trip, we played a game to guess the exact time the bus arrives at the hotel. I won it because I guessed the latest time (30 minutes after the last time chosen). I figured the tour guides were going to be optimistic to keep us from getting to upset with the long bus ride. That, and the traffic is so dependent on things you can't control. This time, I thought I had the latest time also, almost an hour after the prediction of our guides. But Margaret chose two minutes later, and she took the prize. We haven't found out what our prizes are yet, but it's the thought that counts. And the principle. It'll be interesting if everyone fights for the latest time on the next round.

Tonight, we walked to a restaurant a few blocks away from our hotel, and did rather well at negotiating the evening motorbike mania. The food was cooked by us on barbecue grills in our table, from a selection that Bec chose. I was so glad to have my appetite back, and look forward to some healthy digestion.

To see the photos from the drive from Dalat, and of the evening dinner, click on: Tuesday, Feb22nd, Dalat To Saigon and Tuesday Dinner, Feb22nd, Saigon

Gregory

ps. I really want to thank the person who commented today on my YouTube video featuring the photos I took in 1969-70 of children in Vietnam. The person wrote they were a child of a GI in Vietnam who left the country in 1987 for the U.S. The comments were a welcome reinforcement that I had accomplished something of value for kids like the writer, and had indeed spoken for them. I'm glad the home address in California was included, and I intend to try to make contact when I return.

Monday, Feb 21st, Dalat

2011-02-21T08:29:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

We drove this morning first to the Presidential Palace, where Duc led us through Bao Dai’s life, his family, and his role in Vietnam’s history. I think that there should be a movie made of the period from 1945 to 1958, focusing on the lives during that time of Bao Dai and Ho Chi Minh. They were both fascinating personalities, and their struggles with the French Indochinese government makes for fascinating stories.

Afterward, we drove up to the Dalat Skyway, and viewed the greenhouses and resorts below from our seats high in the hills. Arriving near the Zen Budhist Monastery, we strolled the grounds, and marveled at the unique flowers, trees, and Budhist volunteers tending the Monastery. Our bus driver met us, and our next stop was the lively markets in central Dalat. Some were looking for frog and dog sellers, others (Pat) durian. Most just spent the time tasting and taking photographs. Pat convinced several of us to try the durian, and we found it not nearly as pungent a smell as we had imagined (perhaps genetic modification?), and just as delightful in taste. The flavor is offered in ice cream stalls.

I did get to play nine holes of golf today at the gorgeous Dalat Palace Golf Course. Another of our tour mates joined me, Henny, and we both had shots we’re proud of. As usual, I pulled and sliced my way through several holes. But I did have two pars and three bogeys, so the score wasn’t quite a disaster.

For a look at the few photos taken today, click on: Monday, Feb21st, Dalat

Gregory

Sunday, Feb 20th, Dalat

2011-02-20T22:17:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

I would have thought our Dalat Hotel (Saigon Dalat) would have wifi. It's probably just as well, since I took about 10 pictures on our all-day drive from Buon Ne Thuot, and over half of the group spent last night vomitting with cold chills (including Pat). We all skipped dinner, and rested. We think it was a batch of sticky rice. After our morning of palaces, I'm headed to play golf at the Dalat Palace Hotel's great course (one of the local rules is that the Budhist Temple is out of bounds). Afterwards, I'll look for an internet cafe to upload the photos.

Here they are: Sunday,Feb20th, Dalat

Gregory

Saturday, Feb 19th, Buon Me Thuot

2011-02-19T09:12:00.002-03:00

Greetings!

Another long Central Highland drive brings us to Buon Me Thuot. We saw many more minorities struggling to keep their motorbike and rice-paddy tiller engines running, and making everything possible out of wood. The road we followed from Pleiku is actually quite famous in the saga of the Vietnam War. Sixty thousand North Vietnamese and Viet Cong against an equal number of South Vietnamese led to a 29-day battle in which forty thousand Vietnamese died along this road in 1973. It was the Waterloo of the central figure of Vietnam at the time, President Nguyen Van Thieu. You can read all about it at the: Battle_of_Ban_Me_Thuot.

The battle is celebrated in plenty of street names, memorials, and statues. But we visited pagodas and coffee fields and waterfalls. And everywhere we went, there were smiling faces. It's really hard to imagine that all that effort was expended by lots of armies and civilians on all sides, that all those years of sacrifice took place, and we're probably right now where everyone wanted Vietnam to be in 1945. Except the French, who wanted their colony back from the Japanese. We should have been smarter, and should have insisted that Vietnam be given their independence. I'm betting they would have become the strongest entrepreneurial society in Asia. China would have been more concerned with her southern flank, and our Korean conflict might not have happened. We wouldn't have been snookered into buying into the domino theory, and killed three million Vietnamese. We wouldn't have needed to invade Cambodia and depose their king, causing the Kymer Rouge to go bezerk and kill one-third of their population and a lot of Vietnamese. Then, Vietnam wouldn't have invaded Cambodia, and occupied it for nine years.

And what's become of the region 65 years later? A government bound by 50 years of war to end colonial rule which has become in the last 15 years what we fought to make it - a country of entrepreneurial families in every house, with a healthy disrespect for big government. I finally found it, a country full of Republicans.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on: Saturday, Feb19th, Buon Me Thuot

Gregory

Thursday and Friday, Feb 17-18th, Kontum and Pleiku

2011-02-18T06:35:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

We drove south into the Central Highlands on Thursday, stayed overnight in a hotel in Kontum which was almost vacant, and headed to Pleiku on Friday. The days were the longest driving yet, and were valuable mostly in that they helped us better understand the provinces which hold some important minorities. Seeking autonomous authority, the Bahair, Sedang, and the J'rai constitute about half of the regions one million inhabitants. Some of them were known as the Montagnards (mountain people) by Americans during the war, and they opposed the Viet Cong and North Vietnamese efforts during our war.

Today, they grow coffee, tea, manioca, and rubber for large agricultural plantation companies. They live in a beautiful high valley in western central Vietnam, and they's really rather be left alone. Our tour company arranged for us to visit a few stops to allow us to view their customs, and support one of their orphanages. All along the tour, we collected the hotel room items provided for us, and donated them to the orphanage. Several of us also made donations.

In today's photos, you'll see that we took a walk to look inside a J'rai house, to a nearby cemetery, and to their water source. Distinct from the Budhists and Catholics which most Vietnamese celebrate, the locals bury their dead outside of the homes in cemeteries. The jars in the structures pictured held the ashes of everyone in th village who died, and they are kept for seven years. Then they have a special ceremony (a huge one) caled the "Abandonment of the Dead" in which they release their souls and empty the ashes.

The weather is getting hotter, the mosquitos are getting more feisty, and the food is getting more uniform and restricted. It consists primarily of congregate meals of small portions of beef, pork, and chicken served with steamed rice and soup. Cold beer is prized, and sometimes we share a bottle of wine.

Tonight, we're in a large hotel in Pleiku. I flew into the local airbase twice when I was here in 1969-70, and the runway is still used for domestic flights. I remember staying overnight near the officer's club, and hanging with a group of aircraft mechanics at a local bar. Needless to say, I wasn't exposed to much local culture.

To see the photos from the lst two days, click on: Thursday And Friday, Feb17-18th, Kontum And Pleiku

Gregory

Wednesday, Feb 16th, Hoi An

2011-02-16T22:13:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

We spent the day in the small town designed for tourists nearby, well-designed for walking under lighted lanterns hanging across the narrow streets. Shops of all kinds displaying crafts and clothes. This is where tourists are advised to have their shirts and pants custom made, and there seems to be plenty of that activity. We were going to get me a shirt made, but the price was not cheaper that those I get at Costco. And the fabric wasn't unusual.

Massages at the hotel took up the afternoon. Mine was a foot which turned I expanded into leg, arm, back and neck. Pat's included a facial.

We had dinner as a group at a fusion restaurant, which served one of the best duck dinners I've had. Pat's tuna dish was also excellent, and we had a great Australian reisling/sauvignon blanc.

To see the photos from the day, and from last evening, click on: Wednesday, Feb16th, HoiAn, and Tuesday, Feb15th, HoiAn Evening

Gregory

Tuesday, Feb 15th, Hoi An

2011-02-15T12:46:00.001-03:00

Greetings!

Before I get to today's post, I want to help the Nguyen Sisters learn how to access permanently their YouTube video. Here is the direct URL for the Nguyen Sisters Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_9RBQ3VNbs). I'm going to send it to them in an email, but I thought I'd include it here for a few days in the beginning of our daily posts in order for them to not lose the link.

We had lunch today at China Beach at a local beach haven our tour guide spent some time last winter with. He’s fighting to keep his restaurant location, against the commercial ambitions of the hotel chains who want his beachfront property. He’ll lose, but has gotten some reprieve due to the economic downturn. He and his wife prepared the ingredients for egg rolls, and we all drank beer and made our own. While we were there, a young surfer with a wife and small child finished their meal and headed off to the beach with a rented surfboard. For a $5 lunch price, we enjoyed our time at one of the last of the Vietnam coast surf establishments, and paid our respects to a great family.

I didn’t understand how little I comprehended about the emperors, kings, mandarins, and feudal systems throughout this region. And about how everything I knew was combined into a fuzzy ball of Siam, “King and I” images. Each time we climb up the steps of yet another ancient leader’s palace or tomb, and poke through the tributes and offerings, I see more clearly what John Foster Dulles and his successors should have grasped. All of these local leaders did their best to keep from being taken over by each other, and the assumption that any over-arching political system could become dominant (i.e. fall like dominos) was absurd. Centuries of accommodating the English, French, and Chinese have not diminished their nationalistic pride. And one wonders how great they would have become if left alone.

The following comes from Pat, who agreed to write something about the dinner we had tonight.

After climbing marble mountain (very beautiful scenery, very tall stairs, real marble and caves to boot), we arrived at Hoi An via “China Beach” once a GI R&R haven, now home to 5-star hotels. Hoi An is an old trading town with a preserved city center…no cars, but lots of lanterns. We walked around, then had a great meal at Ly’s…Hoi An specialties and local beer…all for $7 @. Ly has just married Nathan, a US expat who was our suave maitre’d. Wonderful meal. The weather is a balmy 70ish. We stay for one more day to shop and wend through quaint streets and covered bridges. Life is great!

To see the photos from today, click on: Tuesday, Feb15th, Hoi An

Gregory