Tuesday, Sep 30th, Baobob Camp, Botswana

 

Today, we drove all day into the central area of the Chobe National Park.  The roads were better getting into the park, but getting to the animals down at the river's edge required the same 4-wheel drive, major bumping capability.  In addition to the African Sable in the photo to the left, we saw four of the big five African animals: Lion, Leopard, Buffalo, and Elephant.  

And not just from a distance in a fleeting moment, up close and doing what they do.  but first, let's recognize that the main park contains 55,000 elephants, and what must be as many giraffes, and a serious amount of impalas, kudus, and (the birders amongst us can attest) an enormous number of multi-colored birds.

We encountered these two lions twice, and the big male let us know how upset he was that we were there.  We also found two brother lions on a hill overlooking thousands of impalas and zebra on a large watery plain.  Our travels today took us to scenes that were perfectly understandable from the view of who eats whom.  All prey were watching out for who threatens them, or at least could do them serious harm. 

Finally, we crossed a small tree-lined hill, and looked out at a stretch of grassland in Namibia that contained several hundred water buffalo.  it reminded us how Botswana is a land-locked country surrounded by eight other countries.  Cooperation is the name of the game here, as the animals don't pay much attention to borders.  Many of the parks are adopting common rules, and attempting to work more closely together, especially around the issue of poaching - a problem they all share.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, Sep 30th, Baobob Camp, Botswana.

Monday, Sep 29th, Baobob Camp, Botswana

 

Baobob Camp is just outside the entrance to Chobe National Park.  Chobe is Botswana's first, third-largest, and most biologically diverse park.  It's known for having the largest number of elephants, and a large number of lions which prey on the elephants, mostly calves and juveniles, and subadults.

Leaving at 6:30am, we entered the Park on a well-maintained road and saw giraffes, baboons, wild dogs, and impala in the trees.  Our driver/guide soon took us onto the not-maintained paths down to the vast wetland savana and hills surrounding it.  

At this time of the year, near the end of the dry season, all see water.   We found lions overseeing their prey from the hills, and crocodiles waiting in the ponds.  Giraffes wary of both, but still taking their chances.  Jackals circulated among impalas too big to take down, and local fisherman in dugout canoes took fish from almost empty rivers.

Still having trouble uploading photos, the blog will be a work in progress.  To see those which were uploaded, click on Monday, Sep 29th, Baobob Camp, Botswana.

Sunday, Sep 28th, Baobob Camp, Botswana

Greetings!

On our drive from Zambia to Botswana today, we stopped at a community market in Livingstone.  Displayed everywhere was the Chitenge (a colorful wrap worn after puberty by women).  Just before leaving our camp in Zambia, were were treated to a presentation by one of our staff on its many uses.

Today was a combination of traveling and safari.  We drove back to Livingstone Airport, took a flight to the point where Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia meet.  We crossed from Zambia into Botswana (dousing our shoes with chemicals to restrict the spread of hoof & mouth disease), and then drove for a couple of hours to the Baobob Camp in Botswana.   

Arriving at another beautiful camp within a national park, we were given an orientation and assigned rooms.  The orientation consists mainly of explaining how we can stay safe both day and night in the midst of some animals which might attack us.  Chaperones with flashlights at night, and keen eyes and closeby rangers during the day.  There's also plenty of housekeeping information, and the schedule for the day.

Each day, beginning early in the morning, there is a safari drive in large open air Toyota 10-passenger vehicles.  It's a tough climb to the seats, but well worth it for the safety and view.   We split up into two vehicles, and try to rotate seats so no one has to sit over the bouncy back wheels to frequently.  The experience is known as the "Masai Massage".  We return for lunch and a short break before heading out in the afternoon for another safari.

I'm still working on uploading photos in a slow wifi environment, so this post will be short.  Click on Sunday, Sep 28th, Baobob Camps, Botswana to see a still incomplete album of photos taken today.

Saturday, Sep 27th, Lafupa Tent Camp, Zambia

Greetings!

Our camp is located in a perfect position to observe wildlife where two rivers meet.  Today, we took two small boats down each of them.  In between, we returned to the Camp, had brunch and rested.  

Among the wildlife seen was the Goliath Heron, the largest heron in the world.  Simply spectacular and regal-looking, it almost seemed to know exactly where to stand to hide from us.  

The Water Monitor, and a dead hippo, were also seen as we criss-crossed each river following our guides keen eyes.  And thanks to their laser pointers, we could spot what they found without too much trouble.  At sunset, we had our traditional tea stop, and enjoyed the sounds of all around us.

At day's end, after dinner, we joined around a campfire, and celebrated our stay at the Camp.  The staff sang and danced, and so did we.  

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, Sep 27th, Lafupa Tent Camp, Zambia.

Friday, Sep 26th, Lafupa Tent Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia

Greetings!

 The terrain in these Southern African countries is not the same as Central and East Africa.   Though dry and endless, there are less wide open spaces for animals with speed.  Many more hiding places, and trees for birds.  This morning, we arose and went out early looking again before brunch in two safari vehicles.  Staying close gto the confluence of the nearby Lafupa and Kafue Rivers, we were there when all came to drink.

Our guide/driver (Akim) has the best spotting eyes in our crew.  If a small family on Impalas is in a field across the river, and he's weaving through thorned branches on either side of the narrow road - trying to keep us from getting us stabbed, he'll find the perfect view point for us to see what he sees.   He's also got eyes on the ground beside him looking for footprints, snake trails, and animal dung to inform us of those we crossed paths with.

At our tea/coffee stop before returning to Camp, we watched quite a few varieties of birds and deer evade crocodiles and hippos to parch their thirst.  At Camp, we filled our bellies at brunch in what one traveler called our "Ultimate Food Safari", and headed off to a short mid-day siesta.

To see the photos taken today, click on Friday, Sep 26th, Lafupa Tented Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia.

Thursday, Sep 25th, Lafupa Tent Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia

Greetings!

We just arrived at the Zambian tent camp that will serve as our home for the next three days.  It's located about 90 minutes by small plane from Livingstone Airport on the banks of the Kafue River.  Home to more bird species than all of Europe, this centerpiece to a planned five-country, 108,000 square mile park, will host us for boating, hiking, and driving adventures.

As Pat relaxes in a hot shower in our cabin, i'm sitting on the porch of our cabin overlooking the River, and hearing a hippo call out.  Some of the others have decided to join a nighttime cruise of the riverbanks.  These locations are extremely well-chosen, and combine access to the wild with the pleasures necessary to recover after long days of travel.

This morning, after leaving Zimbabwe, we stopped around lunch for another key feature of OAT - the controversial topic.  Today, we listened to a survivor tell the story of "The Untold Story of the Zimbabwe Genocide".  From 1980 to 1987, our speaker's family village, and many others in the northwestern Zimbabwe districts which are home to the second largest tribe (Ndebele), were ravaged by the current government's effort to consolidate power into a one-party state.  It is estimated that 100,000 were killed before the feuding groups ended the conflict.  Our speaker's presentation was powerful, horrifying, gruesome, personal, and inspiring.

As this was a long traveling day, there were few photos taken, but you can see them by clicking on Thursday, Sep 25th, Lafupa Tent Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia.

Wednesday, Sep 24th, Kashawe Camp, Zimbabwe

Greetings!

Today, we were treated to two features of most of the Overseas Adventures Travels Tours.  The first is called "A Day in the Life", and it involved our whole group being invited to one of the villages in the area.  The Headman (Clive Machisi), and twenty members of his extended family were there or represented.  We first were guided to their community garden, which feeds up to 5,000 in the community with fruit, vegetables, corn, and wheat.  

The irrigation system was installed through a grant from U.S.AID, the same agency our government just abolished.  Our local guide indicated that there were dozens of other communities which have hopes to attract similar infrastructure investment 

Walking back to the village, we were greeted by Mr. Machisi and his wife (exchanging hellos in their native language), and guided to the several houses, animal enclosures, storage sheds, and open cooking pits.  The meal preparation had begun, and we were encouraged to participate.  It was particularly ironic for Pat to be one of those invited to stir a pot of polenta, given that task was assigned her regularly as a child.

One of the main strange ingredients of the meal was the fried larve of a butterfly which is cleaned and then stuffed with even more protein.  This substitute for meat actually tasted great, especially wrapped in polenta meal and vegetable mash.  Just before we left, we brought out the $210 worth of food we bought at a local market for the village.

Later in the day, we drove to one of larger local schools, partially supported by our tour company.  Almost a thousand 'learners" had just completed their final exams, and were eager to show us their classrooms.    Afterward, we were driven back to the National Park, and then in our safari vehicle back on the rough roads to our Camp for an late afternoon sundown drink and dinner.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, Sep 24th, Kashawe Camp, Zimbabwe. 

 

  

Tuesday, Sep 23rd, Kashawe Camp, Zimbabwe

Greetings!

Both cautions I made yesterday were wrong.  First, we saw almost as many different kinds of wildlife in this morning's safari as we did on the Pre-trip (though not as close).  Second, none of them visited us during the night on the paths around our cabins. 

I'm amazed at how effectively and professionally our guides can locate and identify everything to be seen.  Their eyes and ears were so keenly tuned to everything within a quarter mile of our vehicle as we sped around thousands of dry trees and bushes.  With all of us trying to get great photos, and our targets not exactly posing, placing the vehicle in the right position for the shots was a real art.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, Sep 23rd, Kashawe Camp, Zimbabwe 

Monday, Sep 22nd, Kashawe Camp, Zimbabwe

 

Greetings!

A long day of travel, leaving South Africa, with flying, driving, and riding for hours (in two ten-passenger open-air game vehicles) from the front gate of the national park to the Kashawe Camp where OAT operates one of its 3-day stays.  The Kashawe Camp is within the Hwange National Park, which has an area the size of Connecticut.. 

Therefore, the ease with which we saw animals in our previous private reserve is very different here.  Nevertheless, all eyes and senses are out as we bounce down the pot-holed filled dirt road looking for birds and plants and trees we’ve never seen before.  

Once at the Camp, we’re informed that we’ll have nightly visits on the paths between our cabins and the main buildings by all manner of visitors.  All movement at night is escorted. Being prepared to find elephants, buffalo, and other less-threatening residents was made clear  I can’t wait for the stories at breakfast tomorrow morning.  

It’s hard to describe the majesty of the night skies so far away from earthly ambient light.  It’s blacker and the stars are so much brighter.  We’re in the southern hemisphere so no Big Dipper, but we see the Southern Cross.  And the Milky Way looks like a bright white belt between horizons.

To see the photos at the airport and this evening at our camp, click on Monday, Sep 22nd, Kashawe Camp, Zimbabwe.

Sunday, Sep 21st, Hoedspruit, Soiuth Africa

Greetings!

Every travel has its day when you get sick.  Sunday, was one of them.  Saturday evening, we had a boma (South African for barbecue), and something I ate I shouldn't have.  In the morning, it was clear that the loss of sleep and general poor health had not prepared me for a 6:00am safari.  I stayed behind in our cabin, as the rest of the tour group had a wonderful last outing together.  At breakfast on the deck (where we saw plenty of animals across the river), they recounted sitings of one of the two painted wild dogs on the Reserve, as well as a huge rhino, baboons, and several new birds.  As we ate, we could see giraffes, zebras, and buffalo from our table. 

The rest of the day can be described as a traveling day.  We packed and boarded a van to be driven back to the Hoedspruit Airport.   At noon, we flew back to Johannesburg to the ANew Centurion Hotel where we previously stayed.   It was the first time that I made sure I had one hand close to the seat doggy bag, and took every opportunity to sit in chairs at the airports., and know where the bathroom was  After checking into a room at the hotel, and sleeping for a couple of hours, Pat and Barbara and I walked a short distance over to a large mall to have dinner at a seafood restaurant we had eaten at in 2014 during our second visit to Africa.  We were the only customers, and the owner attended to us personally.  As usual, we ordered too much food, and were given heaping portions.  I ate very little.

Returning to the hotel, we stayed up long enough to try to sleep through the night, and be ready for a 6:30am flight to our next location - a camp near Victoria Falls.  It will be another traveling day, so don't expect many animal photos.   To see the few photos taken today, click on Sunday, Sep 21st,  Hoedspruit, South Africa.

Saturday, Sep 20th, Hoedspruit, South Africa

Greetings!

This morning, at 6am, we went off in search of cheetahs.  Our guides drove us to a far edge of the Reserve, a location that three brothers often frequent  but had not been seen for many days.  Parking us while Patrick (our spotter) conducted a bushwalk, he radioed back the location.  Rifos, our driver, then found the right route to a nearby trailhead. 

Male Cheetahs learn their skills, and spend the first few years with their mothers.  When she kicks them out, and until they secure a mate, they hang out with other young males.  These three brothers are living that life.  Someday, the strongest of them will decide to challenge a nearby dominant male with a family.  Should he be victorious, his brothers will look for other males to form bonds.  Single female Cheetahs are always alone.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, Sep 20th, Hoedspruit, South Africa

 

Friday, Sep 19th, Hoedspruit, South Africa

 

Greetings!

I put this phot up first because it is an example of what Pat describes as the first time we've seen African animals being playful.  I missed posting yesterday as a result of not being familiar enought with a old digital camera we brought along because it was smaller than my old 35-millimeter Nikon with a variety of lens which I began my latest photography era.

So today's post combines Thursday and Friday's safaris on the first and second long days in Becks Safari Lodge in Hoedspruit, South Africa.  The pre-trip portion of the Overseas Adventure Travel's Ultimate Safari is a week in South Africa focusing on traveling to, staying at, and traveling from this great spot to eat, relax, and take twice-a-day 10-passenger truck trips through a private reserve containing lots of African Big-Five animals.  On the first two days, we've seen them all and more (Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino, and Buffalo).

Barbara and Pat have also checked off plenty of beautiful birds and mammals, and each meal is extraordinary.  The lectures are designedly controversial, and the cabins are the peak of luxury. 

We stay here for two more days, and than leave for another camp near Victoria Falls to begin the base tour with a few other explorers.  This start, however, featuring ten terrific companions could not have been better designed and executed.

To see all of the photos taken in the past two days, click on Friday, Sep 19th, Horedspruit, South Africa. 

Wednesday, Sep 17th, Pretoria, South Africa

Greetings!

Today, we left after breakfast at the hotel (great buffet with excellent scrambled eggs, orange juice, and sausage) for a day in Sowetto and downtown Johannesburg.  About an hour's drive from our hotel, we found a street with the homes of two Nobel prize winners - Nelson Mandela and Desmund Tutu.  Our guide (Reuben) led us through the main street that contained the locations where two crucial leaders of the South African political environment lived.

Clearly hosting many tour groups, Sowetto's Vilakazi Street answers the question of what is the current condition of its two million residents.  Reuben's assessment of the upgraded squalor and visitation area gave us a chance to see apartheid's evolution after thirty years.  

Stopping by the home that Nelson and Winnie lived in just after his release in 1990, an excellent young speaker walked us through a complete collection of their photos and documents displayed throughout every foot of the residence.  The story of the journey of father of South Africa and his family lives on in the town's highlight museum.

Two blocks away is the memoralizing plaza of Hector Pieterson honoring the 1976 Sowetto Uprising and Massacre where as many as 600 pupils were killed in the student protest of the introduction of the Afrikaans as the medium of instruction.

Finally, we drove to Kgosi Mampuru Prison to see what is referred to as Pretoria Prison, a number of separate prison buildings, each housing various divisions of prisoners based on racial classification and gender.  This was a national prison and reception centre where many prisoners staarted and ended their sentences.  It was the official site of capital punishment in South Africa.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, Sep 17th, Pretoria, South Africa

 

Tuesday, Sep 16th, Pretoria, South Africa

Greetings!

Landed at the Johannesburg Airport after 15-hour flight from Newark, New Jersey.  This followed a three-hour layover after a five-hour flight from San Francisco.  All in all, we left home at 5:30am on Monday and got into Johannesburg at 6pm on Tuesday.  

This Pre-Trip is quite full of the OAT Core travelers, and some of us are organizing a day trip to Sowetto to visit Nelson Mandela's home tomorrow morning after breakfast.  We spotted each other in the Newark Airport, all sporting traditional safari gear, and carrying that older, weathered traveler look.  The pack we formed going through customs and to the luggage carousel was familiar - as we began to learn each other's names and assist each other's movement.  Our OAT tour staff met us with their bus, and drove us to the ANEW Hotel just outside of Pretoria.

 

Monday, September 15th, Newark, NJ

Greetings!

Left Santa Rosa by a UBER driver (friend of Barbara's) at 5:30am, and arrived at the Newark Airport at 5:30pm.  Pat and Barbara are walking around the gates and restaurants awaiting an 8:50pm flight to Johannesburg.  I finished the last ham sandwich, and am charing the laptop and cell phone at a workstation next to the gate.

To see the few photos of this area, click on Monday, Sep 15th, Newark, NJ.