Oct 21st to Dec 6th, Zealandia

Greetings!

Being about as offline as one could be in this world has been strangely off-worldly.  Here in Lusitania Bay, Macquarie Island, sitting in the seventh floor library on the bow of the Heritage Adventurer, we are offshore of one of four islands at latitude 54 degrees south on earth.  Two of the others are on the other side of the planet, and the fourth is the next island we plan to visit.  And a million king penguins are huddled on the beach at the base of the only piece of the crust of the earth ever thrust above the surface of the sea.

To see the photos for Oct 21st,  click on Friday, Oct 21st, Mackey

To see the photos for Oct 22nd,  click on Saturday, Oct 22nd, Mackey

To see the photos for Oct 23rd,  click on Sunday, Oct 23rd, Mackay

To see the photos for Oct 24th,  click on Monday, Oct 24th, Yappoon

To see the photos for Oct 25th,  click on Tuesday, Oct 25th, Yappoon

To see the photos for Oct 26th,  click on Wednesday, Oct 26th, Bundaberg

To see the photos for Oct 27th,  click on Thursday, Oct 27th, Bundaberg

To see the photos for Oct 28-29th,  click on Friday & Saturday, Oct 28-29th, Hervey Bay

To see the photos for Oct 30th,  click on Sunday, Oct 30th, Hervey Bay

To see the photos for Oct 31st,  click on Monday, Oct 31st, Arlie Beach

To see the photos for Nov 1st,  click on Tuesday, Nov 1st, Noosa Heads

To see the photos for Nov 2nd,  click on Wednesday, Nov 2nd, Noosa Heads

To see the photos for Nov 3rd,  click on Thursday, Nov 3rd, Brisbane

To see the photos for Nov 4th,  click on Friday, Nov 4th, Brisbane

To see the photos for Nov 5th,  click on Saturday, Nov 5th, Brisbane

To see the photos for Nov 6th,  click on Sunday, Nov 6th, Brisbane

To see the photos for Nov 9th,  click on Wednesday, Nov 9th, Queenstown

To see the photos for Nov 10th,  click on Thursday, Nov 10th, Te Anau

To see the photos for Nov 11th,  click on Friday, Nov 11th, Te Anau

To see the photos for. Nov 12th, click on Saturday, Nov 12th, Te Anau

To see the photos for Nov 13th,  click on Sunday, Nov 13th, Dunedin

To see the photos for Nov 14th,  click on Monday, Nov 14th, Dunedin

To see the photos for Nov 15th,  click on Tuesday, Nov 15th, Haast

To see the photos for Nov 16th,  click on Wednesday, Nov 16th, Hokitika

To see the photos for Nov 17th,  click on Thursday, Nov 17th, Christchurch

To see the photos for Nov 18th,  click on Friday, Nov 18th, Christchurch

To see the photos for Nov 21st,  click on Monday, Nov 21st, Oamaru

To see the photos for Nov 22nd,  click on Tuesday, Nov 22nd, Oamaru

To see the photos for Nov 23rd  click on Wednesday, Nov 23rd, Queenstown

To see the photos for Nov 24th,  click on Thursday, Nov 24th, Queenstown

To see the photos for Nov 25th,  click on Friday, Nov 25th, Enderby Island

To see the photos for Nov 26th,  click on Saturday, Nov 26th, Enderby Island

To see the photos for Nov 27th,  click on Sunday, Nov 27th, Auckland Island

To see the photos for Nov 28th,  click on Monday, Nov 28th, Transit Day

To see the photos for Nov 29th,  click on Tuesday, Nov 29th, Macquerie Island

To see the photos for Dec 1st,  click on Thursday, Dec 1st, Transit Day

To see the photos for Dec 2nd,  click on Friday, Dec 2nd, Campbell Island

To see the photos for. Dec 3rd, click on Saturday, Dec 3rd, Invercargill

For the past week, we've used this 8,445-ton refurbished Icebreaker to visit some other islands on the way here.  Each had a slightly different mix of flora and fauna, all attracting this shipload of environmental experts, writers, photographers, and lecturers.  Hosted by a combination of the Australian and New Zealand government officials, and the ship's family owner/operator (Russ Family), we've enjoyed multi-star accommodations and services,   The days and nights have been long and cold.  The conversations have been deep and stimulating.  The furious fifties (latitudes) have produced their famous treacherous winds and seas.

We're joined during the last month of this trip by our friend Barbara Tomin, a hometown soulmate for the past forty-five years.  We are extremely happy to be able to share these sights and sounds with her, and gain from her extensive birding curiosity.

The following is a collection of thoughts assembled from the past day, to be amplified by some photos taken.  The lack of Internet access has kept both their posting, and the uploading of photos, from occurring so far.  We hope to complete those tasks as we end the trip.    

Zodiac Adventuring

The Process of 125 adventurers being prepared to leave the ship, be ferried in zodiacs across the sea to an island, get onto an island, walk around. All day through tall grass and mud, leave the island, be ferried in zodiacs back to the ship, and board the ship - is not without great detail involving attention to precision clothing, many layers, uniform equipment, and intense bio-security precautions.  It’s only slightly less complicated when you don’t get on an island, and spend some hours in the. Zodiac inspecting coastal seaweed, rocks, cliffs, caves, and hanging gardens. 

Covid Restrictions

One of the common conditions cited by travelers in their answers to where they’ve been lately is to provide us with their experiences with Covid.  Like us, many have had to postpone trips, and the stories of stranded travelers are as scary as ours.

Bird and Marine Mammal Experts

Among the five kinds of common sea mammals, only whales, seals and sea lions can be found this close to the Antarctic.  Polar bears, sea otters, and manatees aren’t here.  We’ve seen no whales, but plenty of seals and sea lions.  Yesterday,, we ran a gauntlet of young male New Zealand Hooker sea lions vying for dominance and a harem of their female mates.

Serious Hikers

Anyone wanting evidence of the abilities of elderly hikers need only listen to the recent experiences of our shipmates.  Everywhere there seem are places to hike on this planet would seem to have been conquered listening to the stories told at meal times.

American Politics

As two of only three Americans on board, we have received plenty of understanding from others about the anguish we have felt concerning our Presidential politics over the past five years.  Cautious relief and hope are being extended to us, as well as genuine joy over the positive current state of Australian and New Zealand’s own political state of affairs.

Reading, Geology

The ship has a beautiful and extensive library at the bow in which to sit and read hundreds of volumes of books written in no small part by our shipmates.  Each day, there appears on screens the photos taken by some of those on board, rivaling the best published in these living room books.  

Briefings, Lectures, and Workshops

Each day, whenever we’re not off the ship, we’re encouraged to attend a variety of mandatory and optional gatherings in comfortable amphitheater space to listen to what’s coming up, what’s just happened, or what one needs to know in order to understand what is being seen.  Almost everyone on board could present great topics, and write a few staff and guests are doing so.

Clothing

I’ll bet there isn’t a cold weather outfit in any of the top adventure stores that isn’t on this ship.  It’s like a fashion show, featuring gear and clothing to attempt any outing.

Food

We have had an excellent array of served and buffeted meals from an army of kitchen and dining room staff.  Short meals Ian a bistro on one floor, full meals on another, and a bar which always seems open.

Tuesday, Oct 18th, Arlie Beach

Greetings!

We drove from Townsville to Arlie Beach today, stopping off for lunch at Horseshoe Bay in Bowen.   We're planning to do some sea kayaking, snorkling, and beach walking in the Whitsunday Islands inthe next three days, before heading down to Mackay.

To see the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, Oct 18th, Arlie Beach.

Sunday and Monday, Oct 16-17th, Townsville

 

Greetings!

Yesterday (Sunday) was a long driving day.  We made it to Townsville, where we'll be until Tuesday.  Today is a housekeeping day (haircut, prescription refill, etc.), and probably won't have much of interest.

To see the photos taken yesterday and today, 

click on Sunday and Monday, Oct 16-17th, Townsville.

Saturday, Oct 15th, Mission Beach

Greetings!

Today was an organizing day, staying two nights in one place, and making plans for the next week of places to visit.  It was also a time to attend to mosquitos bites, sore feet, grocery meals, walks on the beach in front of our house, and recovery from almost being hit by a train.

A train, you say.  Oh yes.  Not something we ever want to repeat.   Here's my tale, and I'm sure Pat has her own take.  Driving on the roads which are basically serving the sugar cane farms of the past on the tablelands, we cross frequently the narrow gage railroad tracks on which trains carry many large bins of crops.   There are no signals, and usually you can see left and right to detect if a train might be approaching.  In all the driving we'd done before the incident, I'd driven across probably fifty sets of tracks.  At this set of tracks, I was not going fast, but neither was I looking left or right.  Before I realized it, I was approaching the crossing and Pat was hollering.  To my left, a hundred feet away was a small train, blowing it's horn, and I had stopped with the front part of the car on the tracks.

My American car reaction was (and all of you who have driven cars with right hand steering will know) to grab the turn signal lever on the right hand side of the steering wheel, and try to find reverse.  Of course, it's on the left hand side in these cars, and my efforts were totally futile.  Fortunately, the train engineer ground agonizingly to a slow halt about a foot from our car.  By that time, I had found the gear shift, and was sheepishly apologizing to his yelling as I backed up as he passed in front of us.

I hope you never have the experience, and but for a train not able to stop, or our car being a few feet further, I'm not sure we'd have walked on the beach tonight.

To see the photos taken today, click on Saturday, Oct 15th, Mission Beach.

Friday, Oct 14th, Mission Beach

Greetings!

Today's journey took us across the southern end of the Atherton Tablelands southeast to the coast.  On the way out, we stopped by three waterfalls, a tree that reportedly saved much of the forest from destruction, two dairies, and a castle/garden built by a Spanish immigrant featuring the first private hydroelectric power system in Australia.

The Curtain Fig Tree is said to have been determined by those assessing the work necessary to remove it - as too hard to do.  The decision, contributing to the cost and time estimates prepared by local sugar cane production contractors, led to the abandonment of thousands of acres of tableland properties.

Three waterfalls lie in close proximity, and are included in a mutually-signed circuit.  They all present different degrees of difficulty in hiking to good viewing or swimming locations.  But they all do contain excellent park infrastructure to park and obtain a basic observation.

We had a great picnic lunch at the Mungalli Creek Dairy, a hilltop operation combining lots of popular cheese and ice cream.  Earlier, we visited the nearby Gallo Dairyland, and our picnic actually combined some of their cheese and chocolates with Mungalli's drinks and ice cream.

To see the photos taken today, click on Friday, Oct 14th, Mission Beach.

 

Thursday, Oct 13th, Atherton Tablelands

Greetings!

This morning, we left Port Douglas, and headed south.  We drove along the coast for a while with the white sand beach on our left, and the rainforest on our right.  We stopped in Mossman, and for the second day had breakfast at the Beechwood Cafe.  Their scrambled eggs, orange juice, and hash browns beats most of the best I've found anywhere in the world, and it brought us back to try other variations of the breakfast fare.  They don't have a website yet, but are working on it.  You can't miss them on the main street in Mossman. 

The real prize in Mossman, however, is Mossman Gorge.  Accessible from the Mossman Gorge Cultural Center , it's gorgeous (sorry).  A rainforest with a roaring river running though it, fully handicap accessible thanks to the same federal funding a few years ago which was spread around to a large swath of national parks.  We have never seen such extensive boardwalks, bridges, and pathways.  And busses bringing in lots of people.

About twenty miles north of Cairns, we turned inland and climbed to Kurinda.  The terminus of a train and sky cable from Cairns, Kurinda has become a hub of crafts and art market hangouts which feels more like Berekely in the late 60's.  We even saw someone in bell bottoms.  From Kurinda, we went inland to the Atherton Tablelands.  This huge stretch of high plateau was once the home of tobacco for Australia, and now hosts sugar cane, peanuts, mangos, maize, potatoes, avocados, and lots of berries.  The climate is cooler, with less humidity, and that's just what we wanted.  We're staying at the Chambers Wildlife Rainforest Lodges.  Before turning in, we shared Duck Spring Rolls and a Beef Briskit and dessert with Grenache Shirraz at the Little Eden in Youngaburra.

To see the photos taken today, click on Thursday, Oct 13th, Atherton Tablelands.

 

Wednesday, Oct 12th, Port Douglas

Greetings!

Today was the Great Barrier Reef swim.  We got up early, packed our backpacks with a towel, long sleeve shirt,  sunscreen, wallet, battery for the cell phone (and cord), binoculars, water, hat, extra shirt and underpants,  Wearing our swimsuits and carry the car keys in my pocket, we drove to the Port Douglas Wharf and the Calypso Ten.  We and thirty others began an all-day adventure sailing from the Rainforest to the Reef.

Fifty-five kilometers later, we were oriented, instructed, clothed, supported, assisted, fed, and generally given an excellent team program to spend an hour at three coral reef locations.  The only negatives to the trip were the several hours of a rocking and rolling boat getting out there, the overcast clouds which lessened the colors of the coral and fish, and the clarity with which I have now about how weak my legs and general balance are.  Pat swam and walked much better, even with a very sore foot.

To see the few photos taken today, click on Wednesday, Oct 12th, Port Douglas.

Tuesday, Oct 11th, Port Douglas

Greetings!

We drove back down from Cape Trepidation this morning, and slowly appreciated the beauty of the winding road along the ocean edge of the rainforest.   We keep looking for cassowaries, a rather large bird with plenty of signs showing where it should cross the road.

To see the photos taken today, click on: Tuesday, Oct 10th, Port Douglas.

Monday, Oct 10th, Cape Trepidation

Greetings!

A lazy day at Cape Trepidation.  Not much to do except gawk at the lush rainforest.   We drove into "town" and had breakfast at the the Turtle Cove Cafe.  There are three restaurants within a mile of each other, and it sure does seem like money is beginning to be spent on them.

To see the few photos taken today, click on: Monday, Oct 10th, Cape Trepidation.

Sunday, Oct 9th, Cape Trepidation

Greetings!

Cape Trepidation is where the Rainforest meets the Reef.  Think Jurassic Park meets Nemo.  This is actually the oldest rainforest on the planet, by far.  It was born in Pangea and Godwana, those multi-continents that roamed the earth and contained most of the land mass about 300 million years ago.  And the coral reef in front of us is the largest and oldest living sea creature on the planet.  Kind of makes you feel young and small.  

We're staying at the place you want to be when the shit hits the fan in the rest of the world.  There's no wifi, and the only cell reception is way down the road near the general store.  It's the carrier that was hacked last month, and lost the driver's license information of 95 million users.

To see the photos taken today, click on: Sunday, Oct 9th, Cape Trepidation.

Friday and Saturday, Oct 7th & 8th,Cairns

Greetings!

Yesterday was spent getting from Darwin to Cairns.  We mistakenly thought our flight was yesterday, but missed our flight on Wednesday.  We also missed turning in our RV, and picking up our car on Cairns.  We're a day behind, and this is one of those times when having money is helpful.

It's now Saturday here, and we've had a wonderful two days in Cairns.  We're off to Cape Deception in the 3rd day of our month along the coast to Brisbane.  Hopefully, we'll do a better job of turning in the car and flying to New Zealand then.

To see all of the photos taken yesterday and today, click on Friday and Saturday

Thursday, Oct 6th, Cairns

Greetings!

Well, somehow we lost a day - with great consequence.  We have a restful but hot night at Discovery Caravan Park - pretty close to where we will drop off the van.  We met a nice woman in the pool, and Gregory swapped notes with a Queensland surfer in the converted bus next to us.

 When we awoke, we found we were to have dropped off the van on the fifth.  And we missed our 10/5 flight.  Egads.  It was torture finding out the Jetstar phone number, and then trying to get the phone to connect with it.  The Telstar helpline is useless, but we finally got through to rebook the flight for tonight. We also learned that: 1) Our car rental company will not deliver until the seventh because we arrive too late; and 2) we can't extend our Cairn's lodging an extra night.

Good news.  It's only money.  We can grab a taxi from the airport to our lodging.  And the good all bloke at GotoVans did not make an issue about our broken headlight glass and lens ("you got platinum coverage mate"), and did not charge us for the extra day.  We transferred our stuff to the extra baggage, and really worried about the weight.  Yet somehow the airline accepted our three large bags as check-in luggage without any extra fees.

We carried on the green backpack, and our two day packs, and the purse, and no one batted an eye or even bothered to weight it.  We boarded the plane to find it full (except one seat between us) so getting this flight booked only this morning was really lucky.  We met a very nice couple returning home to Cairns after an outback holiday.

We didn't photograph anything.

 

Wednesday, Oct 5th, Darwin

Greetings!

 We left soggy Litchfield/Bachelor heading north towards Darwin.  We stopped off in Berry Springs for the North Territory Wildlife Park, and what a great find.  Although 30 years old, it's quite updated - 70 hectors of natural monsoon forest, wetland, and woodland, with well-marked paths and a train going around a circuit.  Not crowded, but a decent number. We started with a hot drink, then to a presentation at the billabong. - a pelican feeding.  They are huge white birds with black wing markings, and fly in with feet as landing gears, and slide across the water.  We got within a few feet of them.  Next to the Flight Deck Display, where trained birds came to the trainer.  There were Jaibiru, osprey, emu, and a wedgefield eagle (who broke open an emu egg with the rock).  We walked to the Nocturnal House, with all kinds of rat-like marsupials, echidnas, wallabies, bats, and snakes.  Then to the aquarium with the range of freshwater habitats.  there was a walk-through "glass" tunnel with barracuda, whiptail rays, archer fish, oceanic invertebrates, and a cool moray eel (white with black spots and a yellow nose. 

We did see a dingo and water buffaloes, but missed the walk-through in the Aviary and several other walks in our over five hours stay.  It closes at 3pm, and the heat leveled us by 2:30pm.  But a real highlight to our trip.

We had about an hour's ride to the outskirts of Darwin.  It's hot and muggy, and may rain tonight. Tomorrow, we drop off the van.  Hopefully, we won't get dinged for the broken headlight screen.  Then to a 655 pm flight to Cairns.  

Some thoughts on the Darwin adventure:  The van experience (minus getting used to the Manual/Drive transmission) was mostly positive.  We got to meet more people in the campgrounds and on the trails.  The air-conditioning made it tolerable, but the space is cramped.  Of course, no schlepping of the heavy luggage.  Northern territory seems pretty remote, but not as bad as Kimberly.  But the roads and park amenities are first rate.  The wet is coming on earlier this year, so I think we are getting out of here just in the nick of time.  Cairn may also be hot, but it should get relief as we head south.

Here are the photos taken that day: Wednesday, Oct 5th, Darwin

Tuesday, Oct 4th, Litchfield

Greetings!

 An interesting experiment.  I'm going to read from Pat's Journal.

 We had a leisurely wakeup to very humid weather. We hit it into Litchfield Park -a lovely drive with lots of greenery trees, tree ferns, and palms.  First stop was the magnetic termite man field - big flattened structures, oriented north south to minimize the impact of the sun's heat.  Also Cathedral Mounds, huge multi -pillared structures from a second termite variety.  Then to a series of falls and rock holes, most swimmable with lots of Aussies taking advantage of their noodles.  Florence was the highlight, with twin falls and swimmers in the deep pools, swimming behind the falls.  Also Tolmer Falls.  We hiked up to two overlooks to the thin stream cascading way down, with a vast lookout to the plateau below.  No swimming here - to protect the two species of rare bats.  What a view.  We see rain clouds forming in, coming our way.  By the time we get to the last stop at Florence falls, it started down pouring.  We waited about 40 minutes, and it never let up so we headed back to avoid any flooding.  But it was a downpour all the way back, diminishing as we neared the campground.

 And then off to bachelor for dinner - a funky butterfly farm guest house and café which served up Nasi Gorin and Kung Pao chicken like we've never had before, and hopefully not to meet again. Tomorrow, we spend our last night and Darwin.

To see what happened, click on: Tuesday, Oct 4th, Litchfield

Monday, Oct 3rd, Litchfield

Greetings!

I'm catching up with the posts, and will write more about this day soon.

To see the photos taken this day, click on:Monday, Oct 3rd, Litchfield

Sunday, Oct 2nd, Bitter Springs, Mataranka

Greetings!

I'm reading much about the origins of Australia geologically (surprise), and some recent ?drilling research, craton aging, and theory alignment has me comparing the results against what we are seeing in the gorges and rock sediments around us. 

Most of Australia is seabed that only rose above the surface about 55 million years ago when the continent took shape as a result of three cratons (super magma chambers) colliding.  The southwest area around Perth, northwest Kimberlies, and the central Ayers rock region all came together and created a huge Andes-like mountain range about a billion and a half years ago just as the earth spent 600 million years under miles of ice.  That ice and glaciers reduced the mountains to an inland sea which gave the continent it's two huge sandstones deserts between the cratons.  The eroded seabed sandstone plateaus were carved into the massive gorges we've been cruising through, and the vast remote grassland cattle stations we've been driving across.

It'll be nice to fly over to eastern Australia where the largest organism in the world lives, and came into existence before the continent even rose from the waters.

To see the photos taken at the Bitter Springs creek (a lateral warm spring full of water from the last wet season), click on: Sunday, Oct 2nd.

Saturday, Oct 1st, Katherine

Greetings!

Affordable housing and homelessness are also a problem in Australia, and RV parks are about a quarter full of what appear to be long-term campers.  This country's making babies, which might be a result of Covid restrictions, and strollers, parks, and pools are full.

Phone, cables, and batteries seem back in gear.  Still dead MacAir,  but resigned to buy a new one in the next month.  Until then, the Google Pixel is doing both photographs and Blog writing.  

A few days away from leaving our northwestern Australia experience, and it's been great.  Hot and dry as we imagined, and a good combination of tour bus riding on bumpy dirt roads, car rental in Darwin, and RV navigation on sealed narrow highways long distance between interesting towns, cultural centers and museums, and campgrounds.

Eating breakfast and lunch from local grocery store, and enjoying dinner at the campground pool/bar/restaurant, we aren't overdoing it.  Mindful of luggage limits, we haven't bought anything.  Our bodies are getting used to the cushions in the RV, just about when we'll transition next week to driving a car for a month from Cairns to Brisbane and staying in B&B's.

To see the photos yesterday, click on Saturday, Oct 1st, Katherine

Thursday, September 29th, Kakadu, Northern Territory

Greetings!

After almost two weeks without internet, and a week struggling with a Sim-carded phone, we now can send text messages (with a "0011" U.S. prefix), and if we find a working wifi, we might be able to send photos.  We were able to send a few from a cruise up a rocky canyon a few days ago by uploading them to Pat's Facebook page.  Thank you for the comments you put there.  It appears you liked the 300 million year old sandstone sediments as much as we did.

We're visiting lots of rock art sites, taking small aircraft flights, staying in campgrounds with pools and restaurants, and stopping at cultural centers operated by Aboriginal clans.  Getting sunburned and attacked by flies.  Heading next with our RV to a town named Katherine, and another campground near a cultural center.  

Still trying to load up Google Albums, but it may have to wait until we fly to the East coast city of Cairns (about a week).

To see more of the photos taken this week, click on Sep 29th.        

Friday, Sep 16th, Emma Gorge Resort

Greetings!

Today was a morning cruise on a stretch of the Chamberlain River, and an afternoon of lounging around the Resort pool.  And with water temperature at 76, it's a lot like a large bathtub.  

These guys are seven-spotted archers, and the spit several feet very accurately (dislodging insects off anywhere).  Holding a bit of food off the side of the boat will get your hand targeted, and the fish rewarded

To see all of the photos taken today  click on Friday, Sep 16th.

Thursday, Sep 15th, Emma Gorge Resort

Greetings!    

Another long cruise gave  us a rich understanding of the many decades long work using dams and lakes to tame out-of-control flooding and bring agricultural bonuses to ex-cattle stations in Western Australia.

Making our way north to the top of the state, and west into small national park where creative tour company pioneers have developed the kind of resort they'd want to run.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, Sep 15th, Emma Gorge Resort.

Wednesday, Sep 14th, Kununurra

Greetings!

This post will recap the hikes and experiences that occurred on Tuesday and Wednesday.  With no wifi at the Bungle Bungles, but the most delightful campside accommodations, we flew in a helicopter over and walked through some of the most awe-inspiring rock canyons imaginable.

Back at the Savannah Lodge, we spent more time in a pool than we have in a long time.  The water was 75 degrees (fahrenheit), and it made the 100+ air temperature just tolerable. 

The gorges we're hiking are eroded 350 million year-old limestone reefs which have eroded down colorful cracks into high walls of alternating layers of porous rock.   While walking on conglomerate boulders is often a real balancing challenge for old legs, the resulting scenes are beautiful.  

I want to let Steve and others know that the food where we are staying is superior.  The staff within Outback Spirit locations is often imported from Micronesian resorts badly impacted by the Virus.  Fiji and Vanuatu crews have been employed, and have brought their ingredients and skills to the table.  My usual evaluation of breakfast's scrambled eggs, croissants, and orange juice is placed our camps among the highest, except for the lack of ketchup (anti-sugar nutritionists abound).

To see all of the photos we took yesterday and today, click on; Tuesday, Sep 13th, Bungle Bungles, and Wednesday, Sep 14th, Kununurra

 

Monday, Sep 12th, Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles)

 

Greetings!

We started the morning with a cruise on the Fitzroy River, checking out 350 million year old reef escarpments that illustrate the massive flooding which swamps this area and grinds everything to a halt during the wet season.  At the end of October, this part of Australia closes to all but those that swim well and can survive until the rains stop in the Dry season.

During the rest of the day, we drove to our accommodations for the next two nights: Purnululu National Park.  Commonly referred to a Bungle Bungles, The Savannah Lodge, built by Outback Spirit, will serve as our stay while we explore the increasing popular geological wonder.

To see the photos we took today, click on Monday, Sep 12th, Bungle Bungles

Sunday, Sep 11th, Fitzroy Crossing

 Greetings!

Today was a long driving day.  From our coastal resort, we drove inland, visiting a Baobob tree used as a short-term prison in Derby.  

We then drove the Gibb River Road to the Windjama Gorge, where fresh water crocodiles sunned themselves along the riverbanks.  Some of our friends followed this with a walk deep into the Tunnel Creek National Park lava tunnel, laden with flashlights, sturdy water boots, and intrepid balancing skills.  Afterward, we checked into the Fitzroy River Lodge.

To see the photos we took today, click on Sunday, Sep 11th, Fitzroy Crossing

Saturday, Sep 10th, Broome

 

Greetings!

Today began our latest adventure in the South Pacific.  Ninety-four days in Australia, New Zealand, and the South Ocean.  Our Outback Spirit Guide/Driver (John) picked us up after breakfast at the Cable Beach Resort (the site of an undersea communications cable between Australia and Bali), and drove us to the airport, north of the town.  

Stopping first at the local Japanese Cemetery, dedicated to Japanese who died in the area's long historical pearl shell industry, to those who died in support of Allied interests in WWII, and to those who worked in the mining industry for the many decades it has extracted ore from this land,  

The nineteen of us on this tour were instructed by our pilot on flight safety, and on the day's itinerary.  In a Cessna Seaplane similar to those without sled that I helped maintain while in Vietnam, we flew to the famous Horizontal Falls 100 miles north of us for the afternoon.  We had lunch, swam next to sharks, and rode a jet boat through a narrow passage in the tidal flow in which a million liters of sea per second moves during a four-hour period each day.

To see all of the photos we took today, click on Saturday, Sep 10th, Broome.

Friday, September 9th, Broome, Western Australia

 

Greetings!

This is the sunset we celebrated, after chasing it across the Pacific Ocean for 22 hours to Singapore, and then waiting five hours before flying for five more hours to Perth, and then waiting seven hours before flying two and a half more hours to Broome.  Checking into the Kimberly Explorers Lodge to get a day's rest before Outback Spirit took us to the Cable Beach Resort on the north side of Broome.    

 

We'll be here tonight and tomorrow night, using it as a base for lots of adventures.  Hopefully, more photos will follow (of more than just wallabies in the grass).

Losing our ability to commit to Sonoma County

Greetings!

Having just come back from a trip to Baja and Central Mexico, and preparing for a 3-month trip this fall to Australia, New Zealand and the Southern Oceans, and another long one next spring to India, Nepal, and Bhutan, we find ourselves losing the ability to provide dependable focus on our Sonoma County causes.

In a few minutes, I'll be telling some friends that I'll no longer be able to participate in watershed education outings for middle school students in classroom and WillowCreek's Pomo Canyon campgrounds when the rains provide Chinook breeding opportunities.  I've been a part of Stewards of the Coast and Redwood's outdoor education programs for almost a decade, and ending my service on these teams will be heart-breaking.

But I have to learn to say no to responsibilities which depend on my being around the County.  We're going to be on the road to the world more than ever before.

 

Tuesday, May 31st, La Paz, Baja California South

Greetings!

La Paz is my favorite city in Baja on this tour.  Each of the other places we have stayed brought unique experiences, and all proved valuable.  But La Paz has all of it.  It's resources are new enough, and organized well enough, to make it a place worth recommending to other travelers.  

It doesn't have the direct flights from California, so you'll have to work some to get here. But it's a short hop from Cabo San Lucas, or Los Mochis on the Mainland.  

Jacques Cousteau called it the "World's Aquarium".  Isla Espiritu Santos, and the northern beaches of La Paz,  containing adventures at opportune times of the year (when the whales are passing, when the whale sharks are feeding, when the manta rays are jumping, when the waters are warm, etc.)

But even without any of that (now), we enjoyed the atmosphere of perfect weather, great seafood, one of the longest beachfront promenades we've seen, (full of every form of self-transportation by all ages), and plenty of water sports all around you.

We'll be doing more of it tomorrow, and then flying home on Thursday (through Cabo San Lucas), but if you want more photos of the history of the first people (12,000 years ago), click on Tuesday, May 31st, La Paz. 

Saturday, May 28th, Los Barriles, Baja California South

Greetings!

It's five days since I last posted.  In that time, we were driven from El Fuerte to Los Mochis, flew from Los Mochis to La Paz, rented a car and drove to Todos Santos.  That all happened on a day when important things were occurring back in Santa Rosa for projects Pat and I have been working on.  So I was constantly looking for wifi and cellphone receptivity.  Funds were awarded, and change occurred, but not without stretching, breathing and words of reassurance.  A little like childbirth.

Todos Santos brought us to a three-day stay thirty yards from the a two-mile long beach with about four seaview houses.  Ours was right behind one, but we could hear the pounding waves.  Our only stop on the western coast of Baja, we were overjoyed to be beginning the last nine days of our travels.  Totally on our own, we were charting our own path, and making our own decisions.

Baja California South (BCS) is a land of unique and varied flora and fauna.  If you think you've seen all the cactus there is, or heard of all of the uses of it, come here.  And it you love dirt roads, and rugged off-road outdoor restaurants including the most endemic ingredients and finest talent, come here.

Five days later, we're at Los Barriles, back on the Gulf of California.  It's half-way between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas.  And half-way to our flight home in this last leg.  Snorkeling in front of our patio, and having home-made drinks in the pool, we're loving our slow pace, and feeling more like locals.  The last three-day location is up at Le Paz in a couple of days, and we'll be flying home on Thursday, June 2nd.

To see the photos which highlight our travels in the last five days, click on Saturday, May 28th, Los Barriles

 

Monday, May 23rd, El Fuerte

 

Greetings!

Our second day at the Balderrama Collection's Posada de Hidalgo, we started out the morning spotting birds on the Rio Fuerte.  Along the way, we stopped and hiked up to view some wonderful petroglyphs.    As it warmed and the mosquitos increased, we returned to the Hotel for breakfast.

Later this morning, we embarked on a drive to two communities of Mayo in a local population of about 2,000.  The first group featured three women artisans who demonstrated how to cook corn tacos, and begin pottery from black clay and straw.  The second group featured dancers and musicians.   The main dancer had just returned from winning a national tribal dancing competition.  Featured in the Google Photo Album to which this post is linked, is a short set of videos of what we were treated to.

 

 

Sunday, May 22nd, El Fuerte

 

Greetings!

After spending a wonderful couple of days with Mario and Margarite on their Rancho San Isidro, Mario drove us down the only road to the bottom of the Canyon to the town of Urique.  It's the County.seat of Copper Canyon, where the Tarahumara must do all their official business.  It's also a town of 2,000, where everyone knows Mario and his family.  The main street bears his family's name, and he took us on a walking tour of the schools, church, baseball field.  One of his best friends continued the tour of the town's fruit trees, cactus, and flowering plants while his brother's family made us lunch.  Everywhere one can see evidence of the pride and impact the Caballo Blanco (White Horse) UltraMarathon which has brought international acclaim to the Tarahumara runners,

Unfortunately, my camera battery mysteriously died shortly after beginning the descent, and you're all going to have to imagine the trip into the deepest valley in Mexico,  It's a bucket list place, for both its views and its people.

Here are some photos which we got of the Mission, its namesake hotel operated by the Balderrama family, and the Train (also owned by the same family. 

Staying with the Tarahumara Coach and Family

Greetings!

Mario Lopez grew upon on a small ranch in Cerrocahui, 6,000 feet in Mexico's Sierra Mountains.  In the town of 2,000, everyone knows him.  Lately, his role as coach and support staff to the three recent Tarahumara running team members sweeping the Ultra-Marathon world is broadening his popularity.  

This afternoon, he drove us from the Hotel Mirador to his ranch's Cabanas de San Isidro Lodge.  His sister-in-law was waiting with the best meal we've had so far.   After a short post-meal rest, he's going to give us a tour of his eco-tourist, totally sustainable 20-hectare home, before a light dinner.

Before and after this post, you'll see photos of the whole of this adventure.  The flight down to Cabo, and Baja's dual coasts.  Flight to Los Mochis, and the drive to many nights of splendor in Balderama Collection Hotels.  The travelers we shared stories with, and sometimes actually learned Spanish from.  The spectacular scenery from rivers to mountaintops.  And the local foods which have seldom been consumed outside of these valleys.

But what I will remember, and recommend more than anything else, is to get to know the Tarahumara.  And there is no other experience which can bring that to you than to meet and spend time with Marion Lopez and his family.  Their lives, and those they support, will inspire you like few others.  Enduring struggle against enormous odds, the Tarahumara have demonstrated family and community-supportive characteristics which we all should emulate.  

Cabanas San Isidro Cerocahui on Facebook.  Here's a small batch of photos from our ride, and our cabin.