Saturday, May 28th, Los Barriles, Baja California South

Greetings!

It's five days since I last posted.  In that time, we were driven from El Fuerte to Los Mochis, flew from Los Mochis to La Paz, rented a car and drove to Todos Santos.  That all happened on a day when important things were occurring back in Santa Rosa for projects Pat and I have been working on.  So I was constantly looking for wifi and cellphone receptivity.  Funds were awarded, and change occurred, but not without stretching, breathing and words of reassurance.  A little like childbirth.

Todos Santos brought us to a three-day stay thirty yards from the a two-mile long beach with about four seaview houses.  Ours was right behind one, but we could hear the pounding waves.  Our only stop on the western coast of Baja, we were overjoyed to be beginning the last nine days of our travels.  Totally on our own, we were charting our own path, and making our own decisions.

Baja California South (BCS) is a land of unique and varied flora and fauna.  If you think you've seen all the cactus there is, or heard of all of the uses of it, come here.  And it you love dirt roads, and rugged off-road outdoor restaurants including the most endemic ingredients and finest talent, come here.

Five days later, we're at Los Barriles, back on the Gulf of California.  It's half-way between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas.  And half-way to our flight home in this last leg.  Snorkeling in front of our patio, and having home-made drinks in the pool, we're loving our slow pace, and feeling more like locals.  The last three-day location is up at Le Paz in a couple of days, and we'll be flying home on Thursday, June 2nd.

To see the photos which highlight our travels in the last five days, click on Saturday, May 28th, Los Barriles

 

Monday, May 23rd, El Fuerte

 

Greetings!

Our second day at the Balderrama Collection's Posada de Hidalgo, we started out the morning spotting birds on the Rio Fuerte.  Along the way, we stopped and hiked up to view some wonderful petroglyphs.    As it warmed and the mosquitos increased, we returned to the Hotel for breakfast.

Later this morning, we embarked on a drive to two communities of Mayo in a local population of about 2,000.  The first group featured three women artisans who demonstrated how to cook corn tacos, and begin pottery from black clay and straw.  The second group featured dancers and musicians.   The main dancer had just returned from winning a national tribal dancing competition.  Featured in the Google Photo Album to which this post is linked, is a short set of videos of what we were treated to.

 

 

Sunday, May 22nd, El Fuerte

 

Greetings!

After spending a wonderful couple of days with Mario and Margarite on their Rancho San Isidro, Mario drove us down the only road to the bottom of the Canyon to the town of Urique.  It's the County.seat of Copper Canyon, where the Tarahumara must do all their official business.  It's also a town of 2,000, where everyone knows Mario and his family.  The main street bears his family's name, and he took us on a walking tour of the schools, church, baseball field.  One of his best friends continued the tour of the town's fruit trees, cactus, and flowering plants while his brother's family made us lunch.  Everywhere one can see evidence of the pride and impact the Caballo Blanco (White Horse) UltraMarathon which has brought international acclaim to the Tarahumara runners,

Unfortunately, my camera battery mysteriously died shortly after beginning the descent, and you're all going to have to imagine the trip into the deepest valley in Mexico,  It's a bucket list place, for both its views and its people.

Here are some photos which we got of the Mission, its namesake hotel operated by the Balderrama family, and the Train (also owned by the same family. 

Staying with the Tarahumara Coach and Family

Greetings!

Mario Lopez grew upon on a small ranch in Cerrocahui, 6,000 feet in Mexico's Sierra Mountains.  In the town of 2,000, everyone knows him.  Lately, his role as coach and support staff to the three recent Tarahumara running team members sweeping the Ultra-Marathon world is broadening his popularity.  

This afternoon, he drove us from the Hotel Mirador to his ranch's Cabanas de San Isidro Lodge.  His sister-in-law was waiting with the best meal we've had so far.   After a short post-meal rest, he's going to give us a tour of his eco-tourist, totally sustainable 20-hectare home, before a light dinner.

Before and after this post, you'll see photos of the whole of this adventure.  The flight down to Cabo, and Baja's dual coasts.  Flight to Los Mochis, and the drive to many nights of splendor in Balderama Collection Hotels.  The travelers we shared stories with, and sometimes actually learned Spanish from.  The spectacular scenery from rivers to mountaintops.  And the local foods which have seldom been consumed outside of these valleys.

But what I will remember, and recommend more than anything else, is to get to know the Tarahumara.  And there is no other experience which can bring that to you than to meet and spend time with Marion Lopez and his family.  Their lives, and those they support, will inspire you like few others.  Enduring struggle against enormous odds, the Tarahumara have demonstrated family and community-supportive characteristics which we all should emulate.  

Cabanas San Isidro Cerocahui on Facebook.  Here's a small batch of photos from our ride, and our cabin.

Sunday to Wednesday, May 15-18, Baja to Copper Canyon

 

Greetings!

Anne Kain, Pat and I are off on an adventure in Baja and into the States of Sinaloa and Chihuahua, Mexico.  The route is a flight to Cabo San Lucas, another to Los Mochis, a train through Copper Canyon to El Divisidero, and a stay at a beautiful Hotel (Hotel Posado del Hidalgo) owned by one of the tour companies that are our hosts (Balderama Hotel Collection).  

We're currently sitting on our balcony on the second floor of the Mirador Hotel.  It overlooks the seven ziplines and Gondola which criss-cross the Canyon, and has spectacular views.   The Hotel's elevation is 7,397 feet, and you can see every foot of it to the river below,  Guests sip wine and prepare for dinner while the hotel provides entertainment and lectures.  Plans are made for excursions in the days ahead, and the many hotel staff finish assigning rooms and carrying luggage.

Over the next few days here, we'll join a few guests for trips across the canyon, into the canyon, and to towns and cities in the Chihuahua State.  After that, we'll re-board the new Express Train back to Los Mochis, and fly back to Cabo San Lucas.  Here's a link to the photos which we've taken over the past couple of days.  Depending on the wifi and MexTel communication, there may be another Post or two before we spend more time back in Baja.