Monday, April 27th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today was a traveling day, ending the pre-trip portion of our Tour in Constantine, flying back to Algiers, and then flying to Tunis, Tunisia,  Between flights, we visited the Grand Mosque in Algiers.  Many thanks to Houssem DegDeg, our Tour leader, for leading the first week of our trip.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Monday, April 27th, Tunis, Tunisia.

Sunday, April 26th, Constantine, Algeria

Greetings!

We visited the ancient Roman site of Tidis, 30 kilometers from Constantine. Our guide shared personal stories about traditional slaughtering practices before explaining how the Romans adapted Tidis as a defensive fortress. We explored the city's unique modifications, including cisterns for rainwater collection due to the rocky terrain and steep switchback streets. Highlights included visiting a cave temple dedicated to Mithra, seeing carvings of a bull, and learning about the distinct religious and social meanings behind phallic symbols found in the ruins.

The guide shares personal experiences and cultural practices regarding animal slaughter. Families often keep animals like sheep in gardens before rituals In Islamic tradition, the "men of the house" typically perform the slaughter, though neighbors or professional butchers can be hired. The process requires a very sharp knife and a quick execution to cut the vital arteries humanely. The guide recounts performing his first slaughter at the age of nineteen.

The group travels toward the ancient city of Tidis, noting the unique environment.  The soil is notably red and rich in iron, indicating high mineral content The site served as an advanced fortress to protect the city of Constantine from invaders. Travelers are advised to bring water and walking sticks for the steep, rocky terrain Atmosphere: There is a sense of joy and shared humor as the group jokes about the guide acting as a "mom and dad" to everyone on the trip

Tidis is described as an "exception" to typical Roman city planning due to its difficult, rocky terrain.  Unlike the straight streets of most Roman cities, the "Cardo Maximus" here features twists and S-shapes to navigate the steep climb.  Because there were no nearby rivers, the inhabitants built numerous smooth-lined cisterns to collect and store rainwater. The city shows a transition from pagan worship to Christianity, with small churches built into limited spaces. The group explores caves and temples used for spiritual purposes. Instead of building freestanding temples, inhabitants converted existing natural caves into places of worship for the god Mithra. Holes and carvings in the rock indicate where bulls were tied before spiritual sacrifices. The guide points out specific carvings used to denote different types of buildings. Phallic symbols with wings and legs represented religious fertility.  Similar symbols without wings indicated a "pleasure house" or brothel.

The group takes a moment to appreciate the natural surroundings amidst the historical tour. Bright red poppies are visible scattered across the landscape. The site provides a strategic vantage point where fires were once lit to signal the people of Constantine. The participants express happiness and satisfaction with the trip, finding beauty in the "wonderful" control and history of the location.

We engaged in an extensive and candid discussion about Algerian social, religious, and legal norms while traveling. The conversation covered marriage dynamics, including interfaith unions and cousin marriage, as well as views on adoption, IVF, and family inheritance. We also explored the evolution of women's rights in both Algeria and the West, the nuances of LGBTQ+ visibility and acceptance in a conservative society, and the daily intersection of Islamic principles with modern lifestyle choices like birth control and education.

Religious and cultural laws govern marriage and lineage. A Muslim man may marry a Christian woman, but she is often encouraged to convert to ensure children are raised Muslim. Muslim women are generally not permitted to marry non-Muslim men due to traditional views on patriarchal influence over children's religion. In certain tribes, such as the Mizabi, endogamy is common, though there is a growing modern preference for marrying outside the family to avoid genetic concerns. Formal adoption that changes a child's last name is forbidden in Islam to protect the family tree and clear. Families can take in and raise orphaned children (Kafala), providing for them financially and emotionally, though they do not inherit as biological children would. In Islamic law, a woman's money is hers alone; husbands are the sole providers responsible for food, shelter, and medicine. While women can choose to contribute to the household, they are not legally or religiously obligated to do so. Modern Algerian women have the right to own businesses, buy cars, and manage property independently. Comparisons were made to Western history, noting that until the 1970s, women in the US faced similar restrictions regarding credit and bank accounts. In Algeria, education is a universal right, and women now make up more than 50% of university students

Contraception is widely used, though some local cultural beliefs or medical advice suggest waiting until after the first or second child to start the pill. In Vitro Fertilization (IVF) is generally accepted by scholars provided the genetic material comes from the husband and wife. Sperm banks and surrogacy are largely rejected as they complicate lineage and religious definitions of parentage.

Divorce is religiously discouraged ("the most hated permissible thing") and often involves a mandatory reconciliation period with three court sessions. Men are legally required to provide child support and housing for the ex-wife and children. Previously a source of great shame, divorce is becoming more socially acceptable as women gain more freedom to leave abusive or unhappy marriages.

Homosexuality is not culturally or religiously accepted and is illegal to promote in public. While individuals are generally not harassed if they remain discreet, public displays of same-sex affection can lead to legal punishment or social backlash. There is a strong emphasis on "human respect" for individuals as productive members of society, even when their lifestyle is not condoned by the majority.

Society ranges from conservative to liberal; some women wear hijabs while others wear Western clothing or bikinis at private hotels or specific beaches. Men also have traditional modesty requirements, typically expected to cover the area from the belly button. to below the knee. 

The Guide hosted a group for a traditional Algerian meal, specifically highlighting the culinary specialties of Constantine. We carefully coordinated the seating and ordering, ensuring everyone could sample a variety of authentic dishes like chicken kofta, mahjuba, and a unique black couscous made from wheat. Throughout the lunch, our guide acted as a cultural teacher, explaining the ingredients, traditional eating customs, and the preparation of the semolina-based doughs and red sauces that define the region's rich gastronomic heritage.

The group is settling into a typical Algerian gathering, with some members being invited to sit at reserved tables. The host explains the traditional way of eating together from shared dishes, though they are providing separate plates for convenience. There is a lively and welcoming atmosphere as more chairs and supplies are brought in to accommodate everyone.

The host orders three traditional dishes typical of Constantine to provide a diverse tasting experience. Kufta: A dish made of chicken, served to the group as they begin their meal. Mahjuba: A famous savory pancake made of elastic semolina dough stuffed with onions, tomato, garlic, and olive oil, then cooked on a pan. Black Couscous: A unique variation made of wheat rather than semolina, served with a red broth, vegetables, and meat. Trida: A traditional pasta-like noodle dish served with vegetables. A variety of drink options are available, including still water, sparkling water, and various sodas like Coca-Cola and local brands. Special dietary needs are addressed, with a vegetarian dish specifically requested and prepared for one of the guests.

There is a clear sense of joy as the guests taste the food, particularly the Mahjuba, which was very well-received. The host takes pride in explaining the ingredients and heritage of each dish, creating a warm environment for cultural learning. Guests show appreciation for the flavors, with one guest noting how good a specific dish was and others encouraged to try the various pastas and sauces.

We took a guided tour through one of North Africa’s largest mosques, admiring its Andalusian architecture and intricate handmade details. Our guide explained the practical and spiritual aspects of the space, from the acoustic design of the Mihrab to the importance of memorizing the Quran in Arabic to preserve its meaning. We learned about the roles of Imams, the communal nature of Friday prayers, and unique traditions like using stones for ablution when water isn't available.

The mosque is one of the largest in North Africa, spanning 40 hectares including its gardens. It features Islamic Andalusian architecture, characterized by intricate handmade details throughout the interior and exterior. Notable structural features include two massive minarets, each reaching 107 meters in height. While an Egyptian architect designed the building, the detailed artistry was completed by skilled local artisans.

The Quran consists of 114 chapters and approximately 6,300 verses, varying in length. Memorization is a central tradition, often beginning at ages three or four when the brain is most elastic. Students learn specific techniques for pronunciation and melodic recitation from a master or teacher. While the Quran is translated into many languages for understanding, it must be memorized in Arabic to preserve its original meaning and rhythm. The text has remained unchanged for 1,400 years, dating back to when it was first revealed and later collected into a single book as the Islamic world expanded.

Muslims perform five daily prayers: dawn, midday, afternoon, sunset, and evening. The Imam leads the prayer from the Mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca and serves an acoustic purpose to project his voice. An assistant Imam stands behnd the leader to silently correct any mistakes in recitation, ensuring the prayer remains orderly. Friday prayers include a two-part sermon (Khutbah) delivered from the Minbar, a raised pulpit. Unlike some traditions, there is no confessional box; worshippers believe in a direct connection between themselves and God without intermediaries.

The mosque serves as a community hub where the Imam can help individuals facing financial or personal problems. Visitors are expected to remove their shoes before entering, placing them neatly together to avoid losing them. In this specific mosque, doors remain open for prayer throughout the day, whereas many other Algerian mosques close between prayer times. There is a dedicated area for women to perform their prayers, which is a notable feature of this large facility.

Ablution (Wudu): While water is the priority for ritual washing, stones or sand can be used (Tayammum) if water is unavailable or if a person has a skin condition. Donations: Many of the Quranic books in the mosque are donated by individuals seeking "good deeds" by sharing the holy text with others. Decorative Boxes: Wooden boxes throughout the mosque hold copies of the Quran for people to read between prayer sessions.

You engaged in an in-depth conversation with a guide about Islamic theology, science, and history. The discussion spanned a wide range of topics, including the creation of Adam and Eve, the role of Jesus as a prophet, and the specific miracles of Moses. You also explored the guide's perspective on the evolution theory—which he noted many Muslims reject in favor of direct creation—and the Islamic view on the afterlife, angels, and the nature of sin. The conversation concluded with a brief tour of his former university in Constantine.

God is beyond human comprehension and lacks a physical gender or form. The universe and all life forms are the result of deliberate, intelligent design rather than accidental evolution. Human beings were created directly in their current form, starting with Adam and Eve.

Belief in heaven and hell is central, but salvation is not guaranteed for anyone; it requires constant self-improvement.  Inhabitants of paradise remain there for eternity. Sins are categorized into major (e.g., disbelief, gambling, drinking) and minor (e.g., lying). Forgiveness is sought through direct prayer to God rather than through a confessional intermediary. Muslims believe in all prophets sent to every nation, including those mentioned in the Quran (Jesus, Moses, Abraham) and those unknown. Jesus was not crucified but was lifted by God and will return at the end of days to defeat the false messiah. Prophets are validated by miracles, such as Moses parting the sea or Jesus speaking in the cradle. While Buddha is not explicitly named as a prophet, there is a possibility he could have been one, as messengers were sent to all people.

Symbols like the crescent and star or the hand of Fatima have no inherent religious value or power. Symbolism is generally discouraged to prevent future generations from worshipping objects or paintings instead of God. Mosques are designed for efficiency, often featuring multiple doors to facilitate large groups of people during prayer. Guidance on prayer times and logistics for the group, including the collection of "whispers" (listening devices).

The theory of evolution is viewed as being in opposition to the existence of God and the purposeful creation of life. Science is studied for knowledge, but religious doctrine takes precedence regarding the origins of humanity. The age of the world is considered a detail of little spiritual benefit or consequence. There is an openness to the possibility of other creations or "aliens" given the vastness of the expanding universe, though they are not mentioned in scripture.

The speaker highlights the first university built in Constantine in the 1970s. Mention of the campus layout, including faculties and dormitories for students. Plans for dinner and travel to Algiers. Instructions for meeting in the hotel lobby at 6:30 PM

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Sunday, April 26th, Constantine, Algeria.

Saturday, April 25th, Constantine, Algeria

Greetings!

We explored the historic city of Constantine, Algeria, learning about its unique nicknames like the "City of Suspended Bridges", and the "City of Old Rocks." Our guide explained the city's geographical importance and the history of its eight bridges, including the famous Sidi M'Cid Bridge, which was once the world's highest. We discussed the French-built "touristic path" along the gorges ,and planned a walk across the bridge to meet up for a local lunch at noon.

Known as the city of suspended bridges and eagle nests. famous for its history of scholars who helped during the resistance. The first bridge, built in 1912, is the closest to the river. Sidi Rachad Bridge, or the "Hospital Bridge," stands 175 meters high. This bridge was the highest in the world until 1929 when Colorado's bridge surpassed it. French architecture and Algerian labor created the city's iconic structures. A "touristic path" created by the French allows walkers to explore the depths of the gorges. The river flows north between the massive rock pieces Environmental changes and city sewers have unfortunately eliminated the fish population in the river.

The group must reach the restaurant by 12:00 for their reservation.There is a choice between taking a bus or walking the steep path to the monument. The area serves as a physical archive of civilizations, showcasing layers of history through its various bridges. The Roman bridge sits at the bottom, characterized by two small arches. The Byzantine bridge is located where the stairs are currently situated. Remnants of an Ottoman bridge from the 17th century are visible to the right. The French built a connecting bridge in 1864, which facilitated travel between the two sides. Visitors can observe the progression of engineering from ancient stone paths to modern government projects. A massive bridge built by the government in 2015 now stands as the largest in the region. The "Sidi Rachad Bridge" is noted as a remarkably long stone bridge, measuring 400m in length according to local lore. Travelers used to navigate the hills by horse to descend into the valley and cross the river. The site offers a sensory and adventurous experience for those exploring the terrain. Visitors can actually feel the bridge bouncing under their feet, adding a sense of excitement to the crossing. While many stairs lead down to the ancient ruins for closer exploration, the descent is steep and challenging for some travelers

We enjoyed a meal at a historic Algerian restaurant that was formerly a hamam and a library. While dining, we discussed visa experiences, specifically how being young and single without property ties made traveling difficult in the past. The conversation shifted to our lunch choices, where we opted for vegetables and rice over traditional semolina dishes. We also learned about the local Mizabi culture reflected in the waiters' attire and the restaurant's unique 2014
renovation into a high-end tourist destination.

Traditional dishes included: Meat Tajin: A slow-cooked meat dish. Shbast Suffer: A Constantine specialty made of fried almond paste with honey syrup and cinnamon. Couscous and Semolina Pasta: Served with vegetables and boiled eggs. Drinks included Algerian coffee, "Americano" style coffee, and tea served with traditional sweets. Local street food highlights featured "Dirty and Delicious" square pizza and 12-hour slow-cooked chickpeas (Hummus) served with olive oil and harissa.

We found authentic handmade rugs from the M'zabite tribe, often featuring intricate geometric designs. High-end bridal dresses, such as the Karakou, can take up to eight months to handcraft and cost over $1,000. Artisans use traditional copper tools to extract rose and orange blossom water for cooking and beauty. The copper market remains a staple of local trade, alongside unique items like Tuareg swords and camel-skin products.

Weddings are a major event where brides change outfits up to five times, showcasing various regional styles from Algiers, Constantine, and Oran. The city follows a traditional schedule, becoming a "ghost town" on Fridays, with most shops closing before sunset. Social dynamics often see men as the primary shop owners and providers, even in stores selling women's
attire. Despite modern influences and "fake" global brands, the community maintains deep ties to traditional crafts and conservative social norms.

Our guide shared personal joy through his wedding photos, showing pride in his culture and family. There was genuine concern for a group member, who was unwell at the hotel; the group regularly checked on her recovery. The group found humor and connection while navigating rain-slicked streets, crowded markets, and the "no personal space" rule of local travel. 

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, April 25th, Constantine, Algeria.

Friday, April 24th, Constantine, Algeria

Greetings!

During a bus journey to Constantine, our guide shared a deeply personal and historical account of the Algerian Civil War, known as the 'Black Decade.' We learned how the conflict began after the 1991 elections were canceled to prevent an Islamist victory, leading to a decade of extreme violence that claimed half a million lives. Our guide explained the complex reconciliation process, the current policy of non-negotiation with terrorists, and why this painful era is notably absent from official school textbooks.

We were accompanied at all time on the road by police vehicles.  All foreign groups in Algeria must have a police escort across different states due to historical security protocols. The group successfully navigated out of Algiers with minimal traffic because it is Friday (a weekend/holiday). A stop at a gas station was planned before reaching Constantine, offering another opportunity for a bathroom break. Some audio whisper devices are non-functional. Replacements are currently limited as most units are already in use. 

Following independence in 1962, the country was ruled by a single party (FLN/Army).
An economic crisis in the 1980s led to widespread frustration among the youth. In the early 1990s, the political system was opened, leading to the rise of the Islamic Salvation Front (FIS). The Islamic party won the first and second rounds of parliamentary elections.
The army intervened and falsified results to prevent the establishment of an Islamic state. This interference triggered widespread riots and the eventual formation of extremist armed groups.

Extremists moved to the mountains to wage war against the government. Civilians were caught between both sides; supporting one made them a target for the other. An estimated 500,000 people died during this "Black Decade.". Tactics included bombings, public executions, and strict night curfews. Former President Bouteflika proposed the Charter for Peace and National Reconciliation. A national vote was held, and the majority of Algerians voted for forgiveness and a ceasefire.

Those who surrendered underwent investigations and served jail time if involved in major crimes. Young or minor participants were given new identities and financial aid to re-enter society. All former insurgents remain under permanent 24-hour government surveillance. The military is highly experienced in counter-terrorism and is considered a regional model for these operations. During the war, Algeria was isolated; neighbors like Tunisia and Morocco were hesitant to assist due to fears of the conflict spreading. The government avoids public discussion of this era, partly because many current officials or military leaders were involved in controversial decisions during the conflict. 

Our travel group shared frustrations regarding the service at our hotel in Algeria. Despite its architectural beauty and historical significance, you experienced persistent issues like missing towels, non-functional room keys, and restrictive bar policies. The group leader acknowledged these recurring complaints, noting that while the location is iconic, the service often falls short of international standards. After discussing these hospitality challenges, the group prepared for a short break at a gas station before continuing their journey and upcoming discussion.

Staff reportedly refused to charge drinks directly to rooms unless food was also ordered.
There is a suspicion that bartenders avoid room charges to simplify their own workload during busy periods. The location is described as central but isolated from shops and city life, making it ideal for work but difficult for casual outings.

The hotel is recognized for its immense historical significance and architectural beauty, particularly its tiles and spacious rooms. It is noted as being an attractive spot for overseas travelers due to its connections to figures like Eisenhower and the Allied history. Despite the "five-star" rating, the consensus is that the service does not meet international standards. The group leader mentioned a constant struggle to get staff to fulfill guest requests, often requiring three or four reminders.

The group is considering changing hotels for future trips due to the persistent service failures. A brief stop was scheduled at gas station to allow travelers a 10-minute break. The tour leader coordinated the use of "whisper" devices to ensure everyone could participate in an upcoming discussion once they returned to the bus. There was a lighthearted moment of checking in on each other's physical well-being after long travel, specifically asking if everyone's "legs still work."

We listened to an educational tour of the ancient Roman city of Djemila, known as Cuicul, in Algeria. The guide explained the city's unique V-shaped layout, dictated by surrounding mountains and streams. We learned about the transition from military veterans settling in the first century to the city's peak expansion under Emperors Septimius,Severus, and Caracalla. The tour highlighted the House of Bacchus, a massive private residence, the Christian neighborhood with its early basilicas, and the impressive 3,000-seat theater.

The French conducted most of the archaeological excavations in Algeria during the 18th and early 19th centuries. Work at the site of Jmira (Cuicul) stopped in 1954 due to the Algerian War of Independence. The site was documented using a "moquette" (scale model) created by French archaeologists to show the city's structure.

The city was founded in the 1st century AD, primarily for retired Roman military veterans. The location was chosen for its water sources (two bordering streams) and the protection provided by surrounding mountains. Unlike typical square Roman cities, Jmira has a unique V-shape due to the terrain and streams. The city is highly elevated, sitting at 900 meters above sea level. Key early structures include: Thermal baths and a central market.

The Temple of Venus and residential apartments for the wealthy.. The city reached its peak in the 2nd century under Emperor Septimius Severus.Massive expansion occurred in the 3rd century under Emperor Caracalla.Caracalla’s Reforms: He changed citizenship laws, granting it to anyone who lived in the city and built houses,rather than requiring 25 years of military service.

The Cardo Maximus (the main road connecting north to west). A theater with a capacity for 3,000 spectators.The Arch of Caracalla and a new forum. A fabric market and public toilets.

Expanded to include large gymnasiums, cold rooms (Frigidarium), and hot rooms (Caldarium). Water Management: Large cisterns were used for water supply, utilizing gravity to distribute water and manage the sewage system. Residential Life: The "House of Bacchus" is the largest residence found, featuring extensive mosaics and

meeting spaces.

A "Christian Neighborhood" emerged in the 3rd and 4th centuries as residents converted from paganism. The area includes a bishop’s residence, a baptistry, and two basilicas (4th and 5th centuries). The Byzantines occupied the city until the 6th century. The site was eventually abandoned as Arab settlers prefer] Mosaics served as decorative "carpets" for both aristocrats and common households. The stones used were natural (not painted) and sourced from nearby mountains. Common colors include yellow, orange, and white, which have remained vibrant due to the natural properties of the rock.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, April 24th, Constantine, Algeria

Thursday, April 23rd, Algiers, Algeria

 

Greetings!
Today was a thorough walk through the Kasbah.  

Exploring the Algiers Kasbah and Ottoman History
Our tour today explored the history of the Algiers Kasbah, and the Ottoman Empire's influence on Algerian society. We took a guided historical tour through the heart of Algiers, exploring the iconic Kasbah. Houssem explained the architectural significance of the hilltop city and the hierarchical structure of the Ottoman era, detailing the roles of the Sultan, Day, Bay, and Basha. We learned about the evolution of the city from the 15th century through French colonization, and discussed the cultural transitions between Roman, Islamic, and Ottoman influences.
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The political hierarchy consisted of the Sultan (Turkey), the Day (Governor of the country), and the Bay (Regional ruler). Algiers was originally a Roman city called Icosium before the Ottomans expanded it and built defensive walls.  The "Day" lived in a protected citadel (fortress) on the hill to ensure the safety of the entire country.

The French Colonization (1830–1962)
The "Fan Incident" served as the French excuse for invasion after the Day struck a French ambassador with a fan during a heated negotiation.  The French expanded Algiers beyond the original Kasbah, building European-style structures, schools, and roads.  Sirkeji Prison was built by the French in 1857 on Ottoman remains to hold and execute Algerian resistance fighters via guillotine.

The Kasbah is a "Medina" built on a hill, featuring narrow, maze-like alleys designed to confuse invaders.  Houses often lacked large outside windows to maintain privacy and ventilation, with life centered around internal courtyards. Many historic buildings are currently in a state of neglect, though the government and locals are slowly starting renovations. 

Hammams: Traditional baths consist of three rooms (hot, medium, and cold) to allow the body to adjust temperatures gradually..  

Women's Attire: Traditionally, women wore the "Al-Hayet," a white cloth covering the body and face (leaving only the eyes) as a symbol of purity and modesty.

We visited local families, like the Mahied family, who have maintained carpentry shops for generations, creating handcrafted Ottoman-style furniture.

The Mahied Family House is a living example of resistance where the family refused to leave their ancestral home despite government offers to move.  The house features secret hideouts, including a seven-meter-deep hole used to conceal weapons from French soldiers.  The family honors several martyrs who died during the war of independence, including young Ahmed, who was executed at age 19.

The group discusses the history of Algerian houses and how residents hid gunpowder and weapons from the French. They mention specific holes or hidden compartments behind furniture and under carpets. The discussion reflects a deep respect for the cleverness and resilience of the local people in preserving their privacy and safety during historical conflicts.

Despite the heavy history of war and colonialism, the tour is filled with moments of connection, such as sharing sweet mint tea on a panoramic rooftop. The locals find joy in their heritage, hospitality, and the vibrant "vibes" of their neighborhood, welcoming visitors with open arms and photos.  There is a bittersweet reflection on the "disappearing" nature of the Kasbah as people move away, yet a resilient hope remains in the new shops and cafes opening up. Next, we visited a venue early and learned about the impressive lifespan and traits of African Grey parrots. Arriving early for a visit, we spent time observing African Grey parrots. A companion shared that these birds can live for over 40 years,.  One traveler mentioned a friend who has a 42-year-old parrot. The birds have an impressive leg size, and a friendly nature. There is a sense of wonder and joy in realizing these animals become lifelong family members.

The guide explains the menu for a traditional meal in Algiers, creating an atmosphere of hospitality. The meal starts with Sharba (soup) and salad. The main dish is Rechta, a famous dish from Algiers/Constantine consisting of very thin semolina noodles. It is traditionally served with chicken, white sauce, chickpeas, turnips, and other vegetables. Special dietary accommodations are made for a traveler avoiding meat, ensuring everyone feels included
in the culinary experience.

The participants share their travel histories and upcoming adventures, showing a shared passion for exploring the world. One speaker is heading to a Greek island for a "lazy week" before a trip to the Galapagos and Peru in February. There is mention of an independent trip to Madagascar being planned. They discuss the pros and cons of organized tours (like OAT) versus independent travel. The group reminisces about "wild" train experiences in other countries. They recall a train in Thailand that passes directly through a market, where vendors fold back their stalls just seconds before the train arrives. Another memory involves the simple joy of children waving at a passing train, capturing a nostalgic and happy feeling of human connection across borders.

We learned about the Ketchoua Mosque's history and the tragic origins of Martyr's Square. The conversation detailed the history of the Ketchoua Mosque in Algeria, land how it was transformed from a mosque to a church during French colonization and back again after independence. There were tragic protests at Martyr's Square, where many Algerians died defending the site. The conversation shifted to practicalities as someone in your group dealt with a knee injury, while you also discussed the roles of the Ministries of Culture and Tourism in maintaining historical sites and improving railings for accessibility.  The group discussed the importance of railings and better accessibility for elderly travelers or those with mobility issues.

Ketchaoua Mosque History
The building is a 16th-century World Heritage site with a complex history of transformation.
Originally a mosque, it was converted into a church by the French during the colonial era
Argenians protested this conversion, leading to violent atrocities and significant loss of life.
Martyr's Square was named in honor of those who died defending the mosque
After independence, the government restored it as a functional mosque which remains beautiful and active today.  Discussion regarding traditional clothing and comfort for local men
Many wear a two-piece "chemis" with matching pants or comfortable underwear to allow airflow after a long day in tight jeans.  

The group conducted a quick visit to a local museum divided into two primary sections
Section one featuring Roman mosaics and statues.  One section focuses on Islamic art, history, and tools used by Arabs in the past.  Our guide highlighted a Muslim cemetery visible nearby during the transition between sites.

One participant is currently dealing with a painful knee injury. The group is providing support with ice packs and arranging for a doctor to check the injury at the hotel. There is a sense of community care, ensuring the injured person has the easiest paths to walk during
future tours.

The group is preparing for a challenging but exciting day at the Roman city of Djemila.  A 7:30 AM departure is required to manage a total of six hours of driving. The schedule includes lunch, a museum visit, and two hours exploring the ancient site. Guests must pack tonight and place luggage outside rooms by 7:00 AM. Breakfast is available at 6:00 AM. Dinner tonight is at the participants' own leisure, with options at the hotel lobby bar or nearby local restaurants.

To see more of the photos taken today, click on  Thursday, April 23rd, Algiers, Algeria.

Wednesday, April 22nd, Algiers, Algeria

 

Greetings! 

Today, we explored Algerian culture, history, and social dynamics during a guided walk through   the City and its parks.  The main street, up from the Port, is filled with French Colonial white-washed buildings.   Our guide (Houssem Degdeg) shared stories about local flora, the diverse Berber tribes represented in French-era statues, and the traditional dances of the women of the N'aili tribe.  Soon, the conversation shifted to modern social dynamics, including the influence of Turkish and Mexican employment strategies, and the development of the metro subway system, the second to be built in Africa (after Eqypt). 

Houssem told us of the five main tribes: Kabiri, Tuareg, Mozabite, Shawia, and

the N'aili. On our walk, we stopped at a statue by a French sculptor which depicts N'aili women dancing, showcasing traditional headdresses and demonstrating belly-focused movements. While there, Houssem revealed that he, like other Algerian men, leaned toward "full-figured" or voluptuous women rather than the skinny aesthetic common in the West. He also told us that male grooming trends have shifted significantly due to the popularity of Turkish soap operas.  Women now prefer men with beards and romantic dispositions, moving away from the clean-shaven look of previous generations.

We asked about how Algeria supports families, and learned that the country houses its citizens by utilizing a mortgage system where the government builds apartments for low-income citizens, requiring a small down payment and long-term installments.  Once the mortgage is repaid, the house is free of sale restrictions.  Education is free, and students are paid a stipend.  Basic healthcare is free, and medical training requires six years of service in poor neighborhoods in the southern areas of the country,  general unemployment is a challenge, particularly for graduates, as the country transitions from government-led employment to a growing private sector.  Gasoline is about twelve cents a gallon, and Algeria exports to all countries in the area.  It's currently renegotiating prices, taking advantage of its positive bargaining position.  It has built pipelines to Spain and Italy, and has cut its previous pipelines through Morocco and Tunisia.  The metro system, opened in 2011, is a vital resource for skipping heavy traffic and is widely used by students and seniors due to discounted rates.

Marriages are not arranged, but carefully handled to honor and respect the bride and groom's fathers.  Houssem, his wife, and daughter live with his parents.  He does not expect to live in his own house for twenty years.  Social interactions are often gender-segregated; it is uncommon for men and women to be "just friends" unless they are dating.

There is a localized drug problem involving prescription pills and hashish, though the government enforces very strict penalties for distribution.

After visiting the famous Martyrs'  Memorial, we learned more about the 2019 Protests (Hirak Movement). There were massive, peaceful protests every Friday in 2019 to oppose the fifth term of ex-president Abdelaziz Bouteflika, who was physically unable to rule.  Iconic images from this era show protesters climbing unfinished buildings in Algiers to wave national flags, a symbol of their frustration and desire for democratic change. The "French-style" buildings in Algiers were often built over Ottoman structures during the colonization era to give the city a European appearance. The government is currently leading renovation efforts to repaint and preserve these historical facades, while the interiors remain privately-owned.

Finally, there was a moment of relaxation at a public square and sidewalk cafe, mirroring the Parisian lifestyle with coffee and snacks.

In the late afternoon, the group transitioned to a visit to the Bardo Museum, which features a prehistoric section in a stunning Ottoman palace. A group welcome dinner is being coordinated via WhatsApp, at the Latin Quarter, with the guide ensuring everyone’s dietary preferences.

To see more of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, April 22nd, Algiers, Algeria.

Tuesday, April 21st, Algiers, Algeria

Greetings!

Tales of Global Adventures and Exotic Eats

Tonight, at dinner, after 29 hours in transit from our home, our group of 15 reminisced about adventurous travel stories, exotic culinary experiences, and memorable cultural mishaps abroad.

We shared vibrant travel stories, reminiscing about past adventures in Ecuador, Peru, and China. The conversation centered on the unique challenges and joys of global travel, from chasing anacondas in the Amazon mud to experiencing altitude sickness in Quito. I laughed about the cultural shock of being asked to perform 'American dances in Africa and exchanged tales of daring culinary encounters, including eating insects, snakes, and even navigating the 'delicacy' of a floating eye in a soup.

Travel Coordination and Shared Histories

This kind of group travel often begins with a single person taking the initiative to lead and organize others Out fellow travelers discussed their history of recruiting travelers through local clubs and personal networks in places like Sonoma. They transitioned from being the primary organizers for trips to India and China to letting others take the lead to share the workload.

Memorable Adventures in South America

South American expeditions provided a mix of beauty, challenge, and unexpected bonding. A trip to the Amazon, Machu Picchu, and the Galápagos was marked by meeting lifelong friends after a roommate cancellation. I shared a thrilling (and slightly muddy) memory of tracking a 30-foot anaconda in the Ecuadorian Amazon despite Pat having a bad knee. Quito was highlighted as a beautiful colonial city, though the high altitude requires medication and a slow pace for some travelers.

Cultural Immersion and Group Experiences

Travel through Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) and similar groups often includes "day in the life" visits to local communities.  In Quito, our group visited a school for disabled youth who performed music and invited the travelers to dance, creating a touching, joyful memory.  The result was a more humorous, slightly embarrassing memory of being asked to perform "American songs" in Africa and failing to demonstrate any musical ability.

Culinary Bravery and Life Lessons

Travel is often defined by the willingness to try exotic and sometimes "challenging" foods. My experience as a child being a picky eater, eventually having to adapt to a wide variety of foods after joining the military and marrying a partner who loves cooking. The group shared stories of trying exotic delicacies, including fried insects in Cambodia, snake in China (which "tastes like chicken"), and even fish eyes in South America. A humorous story involved a grandfather who, upon arriving in the US from Poland, who tried to eat a banana without peeling it.

Shared Wisdom on Aging and Travel

The conversation reflected a collective joy in the resilience required to keep traveling as they age.There is a shared understanding of "lessons learned" since the 60s and 70s, such as eating less and sharing meals like soups and salads to manage digestion while abroad. Despite physical challenges like bad knees or allergies to new foods (like an initial reaction to avocados), the speakers expressed a deep sense of gratitude for the ability to still see the world.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, April 21st, Algiers, Algeria