Monday, May 4th, Diar Abou Habibi - Touzeur, Tunisia

Greetings!

The group arrived at a beautiful home in Douz, which was decorated with Bougainvillea for a lunch hosted by Ahmed and his wife, Huda. The host, Ahmed, was described as warm and open, welcoming any questions about their life, family, and traditions. The atmosphere was joyful and intimate, focusing on the "smooth" and smiling nature of the local hosts. 

The group enjoyed a traditional meal featuring various local flavors and textures. Noted dishes included chicken, squash, carrots, and a thin noodle dish compared to "Rice-A-Roni." The use of spices was discussed, focusing on adding flavor rather than just heat. The conversation reflected a sense of discovery and appreciation for Tunisian hospitality and home cooking.

The experience was part of a cultural immersion, where we discussed local customs like the Sahara Festival and handicraft villages. On the bus afterward, the conversation turned personal as we shared stories about past camel rides, career legacies in public health, and retirement transitions. The atmosphere was warm and open, emphasizing the value of connecting with locals and sharing life experiences across different cultures. We also discussed was the Sahara Festival in Douz, which runs from December 24th to 30th and attracts visitors from all over the world. The area features a handicraft village where locals sell handmade items, particularly on weekends. Mention of "The Residence," noted as one of the top ten hotels in Africa. 

Reflections on Camel Riding

Travelers shared mixed feelings about their recent camel rides to an ancient monastery. Some found the experience interesting but physically uncomfortable and "bumpy." Comparisons were made to camel rides in Egypt, noting differences in how the animals were led. One traveler expressed a firm "no camel" policy for future trips to avoid the discomfort.  

Careers, Retirement, and Life Transitions

Members of the group shared personal stories about their professional lives and the transition into retirement. One participant discussed ensuring a smooth transition in their public health/epidemiology role to "young blood" before retiring. Another shared a touching story about moving to California and the sudden loss of her husband shortly after. There was a shared sense of accomplishment in their careers, ranging from data management and fundraising to working at the World Bank.

You listened to a guide describe the local harvest cycles of date palm trees and the ingenious ways locals repurpose dried leaves for sand barriers and furniture. The journey continues from Douz toward Tozeur for a two-night stay at a treehouse hotel. There is an upcoming stop planned at Africa's largest salt lake, which geographically divides Tunisia, where you'll have the chance to walk across the salt flats before reaching the oasis destination.

Economic and Cultural Role of Palm Trees

Local communities have turned date production into a sustainable source of income and growth. Every part of the palm tree is thoughtfully repurposed to support daily life. Dried leaves are used as barriers to protect cities from encroaching desert sands. Leaves also serve as fuel for ovens and material for crafting furniture, such as traditional beds.

Several in the group experienced a 25-minute camel trek through the dunes and a 35-minute crossing.  Journey to Tozeur

The group is transitioning from Douz to Tozeur, where they will spend the next two nights. There is a sense of quiet anticipation following lunch as the travelers move toward their new destination.

Exploring the Great Salt Lake

A planned stop at Africa’s largest salt lake allowed travelers to walk directly on the salt crust, and included a 20-minute stop for photos and observation. This massive natural landmark is a geographical marvel that effectively splits the map of Tunisia in two.

Unique Oasis Accommodations

The upcoming stay at the Abu Habibi hotel offers the joyful experience of living in tree houses. Nestled deep within the oasis, the hotel promises a peaceful and creative connection with the local environment. Our guide outlined the upcoming two-day itinerary in Tozer, Tunisia. The group is staying in unique treehouse accommodations named after the 'Abu Habimi' bird. The rooms were prepared with cooling and room spray for a comfortable arrival. Guests are navigating room features, including the shower, lighting switches, and closet space. 

Key logistics were shared, including room assignments, mosquito precautions, and the process for laundry and breakfast delivery. Tomorrow’s highlights include horse and carriage rides through the oasis, a brick factory visit, and a local market tour. We were also invited to try camel meat, and visit a traditional museum to learn about Tunisian weddings.  Breakfast is delivered directly to room terraces starting at 7:30 AM. One Nespresso-style coffee capsule per person per day is free; additional capsules are extra. Laundry must be dropped at reception tonight to be returned tomorrow; payments are cash-only (no credit cards). Health and Safety Mosquitoes: High activity near palm trees and the pool. Guests must apply repellent immediately upon arrival and before the oasis visit. Hydration: Temperatures will reach 93°F. Guests are advised to take water bottles from the bus for tomorrow’s activities.  Air conditioning has been pre-activated to cool rooms. To have the room cleaned, leave the key in the door lock. If you take the key with you, staff will not enter. Safes: Available in all rooms for valuables and passports.  Tonight's Dinner Located in the restaurant (not poolside due to mosquitoes). Menu: Soup, three types of salad, "purple pizza" (spicy), rice or spaghetti, and grilled brochettes (lamb, beef, chicken). Wine is available. Breakfast Delivered to rooms at 7:30 AM. Includes yogurt, juice, milk, cheese, and bread. Tomorrow's Itinerary (May 5th) 09:00 AM: Departure Transportation: Horse-drawn carriages (4 people per carriage). Morning Activities Oasis of Tozer: Visit includes a demonstration of climbing palm trees without equipment. Brick Factory: Guided tour of traditional mud and clay brick manufacturing. Whisper sets are required. Afternoon activities include Tozer Downtown: 20-minute free time at the Daily Market followed by a walk through the Medina. Museum Visit: A local lady will host a tour of her traditional kitchen and home. Optional Lunch: Local restaurant featuring camel meat (not included in the tour price). Free Time Activities Museum of Traditions: Discussion on traditional Tunisian weddings and jewelry. Museum of Dates: Accessible via taxi or a 4-mile walk.  Travelers are managing their tech needs and personal belongings after a long day. Challenges with the local Wi-Fi were discussed, specifically how to connect to the "DR Hubbi" network. Despite some frustration with "no internet" messages, the group remains in high spirits. Small domestic details, like finding drinking glasses and managing luggage, are being handled with a sense of camaraderie.

The schedule for the following day also promises an immersive look at local agriculture. Departure is set for 9:00 AM using horse-drawn carriages rather than the bus. The group will visit an oasis to learn about irrigation, date harvesting, and artificial pollination. A local guide named Muhammad will provide a first-hand demonstration of oasis management. T

To see all of the photos taken today, Click on Monday, May 4th, Diar Abou Habibi, Tunisia

Sunday, May 3rd, Gilane OAT Camp - Saharan Douz, Tunisia

Greetings!

On Sunday, after re-packing one day’s needs into very small piece of luggage each, we headed off to our Saharan tent camp location.  This involved our big bus driving west across the top of the southern half of Tunisia (the one containing most of the sandy Sahara).  

On the way, we toured a traditional 400-year-old Berber troglodyte home in Tunisia, guided by a local expert. The guide shared the history of the Berber people’s migration to the Atlas Mountains to escape conflict, explaining how they dug homes into sandstone for protection and natural climate control. We met Miriam and her family, observing their way of life—from grinding flour with stones to making harissa. The visit concluded with a shared meal of fresh bread, honey, and olive oil, accompanied by traditional tea. The houses are dug into soft sandstone to provide natural protection and insulation against extreme temperatures Berber families originally moved to these mountain areas to escape historical migrations from the south. Homes were built with hidden entrances and camouflage to protect residents from outsiders A traditional wooden door, often cured in salt lakes for a year, serves as the primary security for the household.  The fish symbol is a common protective emblem used by Jewish, Christian, and Muslim communities in the area The "Hand of Fatima" (five fingers) is used to ward off the "evil eye", and represents the five pillars of Islam for some families. Combining the fish and hand symbols is believed to multiply the spiritual protection of the home. Traditionally, Berber women in this community only left their homes three times in their entire life: for their wedding preparation, moving to their husband's house, and their funeral. The guest room was strictly managed by the father; once tea was served, it was a polite signal for guests that the visit had concluded. Historical gender roles dictated that women spent the night on the floor or a separate bed after spending time with their husbands.

The kitchen uses large terracotta jars as a natural "fridge" to keep grains, dried beans, and spices cool and fresh. Traditional hospitality includes serving fresh bread made from hand-ground wheat or barley, paired with honey and olive oil. The local mint tea is a significant cultural staple, often cited by visitors as the best in the country due to its unique preparation. Miriam chose to stay in the ancestral home to care for her mother, Zohra, who lived to be 86 years old. Because she did not marry or have children before reaching a certain age, she remains the caretaker of the house. Despite her brothers having rights to the property, they honor a family agreement allowing her to live there for the rest of her life. She maintains the household by grinding flour by hand and hosting visitors to share her heritage. 

Soon, we arrived at a small hotel where we disembarked into four 4-wheel drive small powerful SUVs to traverse the windy sand dune moguls another 30 miles into our tent camp. Glamping is what we’d call it back home, because these were not tents.  They were more like canvas-sided, clustered, very comfy tiny houses.  They had great beds and bathrooms, magnificent OBWan Kanobe robes, eye-popping night skies after beautiful wine-toasting sunsets.  We were treated to a demonstration by the resident  bedouin-raised chef to bread-making on a ground fire, and to roasting the main meal in metal pots in deep hole pits.   No internet, not ambient lights, but camels definitely walking through the camp, and on full display at sunrise. The rest of the world really didn’t matter, as we’d soon be returning to it tomorrow.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Sunday, May 3rd, Saharan Douz, Tunisia

Saturday, May 2nd, Ksar Ouled Debbab, Tunisia

Greetings!

This narrative is being written on Monday afternoon, after we drove across the southern end of Tunisia to the town of Touzeur.  Check out Monday’s post for a description of what we saw that day.

On Saturday, we drove to Chenini, a unique mountain Troglodytic settlement which was built by fleeing Berbers in the late 19th century seeking protection against Gazzia (Arab tribes) from the north.  Utilizing the same cave-dwelling skills their ancestors did in the north to escape lions, they carved into the horizontal sandstone layers below the limestone cliff strata which serves as the floor and ceiling.  On the way up the valley leading to the village, it was also evident that they were quite capable of channeling the scant rainwater into damed streams creating holding ponds for agriculture.  

Reading the OAT Itinerary, this was a dayhike for which the description scared me.   As a result of a fall I took on the pre-trip in Algeria, I’ve been using a borrowed walking stick, and gripping tightly to every stair railing I could find.  My left inside thigh is seriously black & blue, and so are my toes on that foot.  So when I read in the OAT Itinerary that “Today, we will walk for a total of 3 miles over uneven, slippery terrain, steeply-slopped surfaces, and stairs without railings (not suitable for the use of walking sticks).  There willl not be any benches available for resting during this walk.”, I was concerned as it sounded like this was a day I should skip the morning adventure.  

Pat was also not feeling well, and eventually decided to sit on a low wall at the bottom of the canyon.  I took plenty of photos as I gingerly navigated the pathway with my stick, stopping much too frequently and falling behind the group’s pace.  Thus, I bailed out of the walk about halfway up, and went directly to the ending point restaurant at the opposite end of one of the switchback legs.  I got there only a few minutes before the group arrived, proclaiming it got easier from just ahead of where I turned back. Oh well, the settlement was clearly well worth visiting.  The complete ingenuity and cleverness of a tribe of Berbers which I had previously understood to be only capable of guiding sheep and staying alive, was enlightening.

We then drove to the current town nearby, which served as the shooting location for the galactic planet town of “Tataoonie" in an episode of  George Lucas’s “Star Wars - the Phantom Menace”.  Most of us were old enough to remember the scenes which were displayed throughout the small strange houses.  After lunch at a local restaurant, we drove back to our hotel in the real Tatauoine.  

To see the photos take today, click on Saturday, May 2nd, Tatauoie, Tunisia.

 

Friday, May 1st, Tataouine, Tunisia

Greetings!

On the bus today, we listened to a detailed explanation regarding the complex reality of smuggling in southern Tunisia. The speaker described how the local economy is fundamentally built on cross-border trade with Libya, historically encouraged by Muammar Gaddafi to bypass international embargoes. We learned that for residents in the southeast, life is often more socially and economically intertwined with Libya than with the Tunisian capital, Tunis, due to geographic proximity and long-standing tribal and marital ties across the borders.  Smuggling serves as the primary foundation of the economy in Southern Tunisia.  Local livelihoods are heavily dependent on these activities despite national legal frameworks. Cross-border trade provides the region with its core economic structure.  The southern region is located only 42 miles from the Libyan border. Proximity makes the area more logistically and socially connected to Tripoli than to the Tunisian capital. The geographic shape of the region facilitates close ties with neighboring foreign countries. Historical links were strengthened during the era of Colonel Gaddafi Trade policies once allowed the exchange of fuel using identity cards instead of passports Integration has resulted in cross-border marriages and shared tribal identities between Tunisia and Libya.

Our Guide explained the complex reality of fuel smuggling in Tunisia, focusing on how illegal imports from Algeria and Libya affect the local market. The discussion touched on the economic allure of cheaper, smuggled gas compared to legal alternatives and the massive cash transactions involved in these shadow economies. He also examined the challenge of advocating for higher fuel quality standards in a society accustomed to low prices, acknowledging the difficulty of pushing for governmental reform against established smuggling routes.  Smuggling operations primarily involve fuel transported from Algeria and Libya into Tunisia. Local markets rely heavily on smuggled fuel because it is significantly cheaper and widely accessible. Illegal traders maintain substantial control over the fuel supply chain and facilitate high-value cash transactions.  Significant price disparities exist between smuggled fuel (as low as 29 cents per gallon) and official government-regulated sources. Large-scale purchases, such as vehicles costing 300,000 TND, are often handled via cash within these informal networks. Fuel costs in specific regions are reported to be notably higher than the rest of the country, complicating economic stability. Government advocacy focuses on implementing higher fuel quality standards to match international expectations. Transitioning the public toward regulated fuel is difficult due to widespread societal preference for low-cost smuggled options. Activists are working to convince the government to formalize the sector and improve fuel quality despite economic resistance.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, May 1st, Tataouie, Tunisia.

Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

We listened to an in-depth presentation on Tunisia's history as you traveled from Tunis. The guide detailed the destruction and rebuilding of Carthage by the Romans, the subsequent Vandal and Byzantine occupations, and the arrival of Islam in 670 AD.  A key distinction was made between a 'Muslim country' and an 'Islamic country' based on legal structures. The discussion concluded with insights into Phoenician maritime engineering in Carthage and how Tunisia aligns its weekend with Europe for economic reasons.

Roman Carthage and the Reconstruction

The Punics were a mixture of Berbers and Phoenicians who inhabited the region. Carthage remained a "ghost city" for a century following its destruction in 146 BC.  Julius Caesar ordered the rebuilding of Carthage in 46 BC as a smaller copy of Rome.  Buildings were constructed with the same decorations but at half the size.  This was intended as a message of humiliation to non-Romans.  Carthage served as the "Granary of Rome," feeding the empire while paying higher taxes than Romans in Italy.

Foreign Occupations and the Path to Independence

To gain independence from Rome, Carthaginians hired the Vandals as mercenaries. The Vandals subsequently occupied the area for 90 years, destroying cities and imposing heavy taxes. The Byzantines from Istanbul later liberated the area from the Vandals and ruled for two centuries. Subsequent waves of occupation included the Spanish, the Ottomans (for four centuries), and the French. The French protectorate lasted from 1881 to 1956. Post-independence, Tunisia shifted from a kingdom with 17 kings to a republic led by President Bourguiba.

Distinguishing Between Muslim and Islamic Countries

Tunisia is defined as a Muslim country rather than an Islamic country. In a Muslim country, the law and constitution are not derived directly from the Quran. An Islamic country uses laws based on human interpretations of the holy book. The lecturer noted that linguistic nuances in Arabic can drastically change the meaning of words. Historical interpretations by Sultans or Caliphs, such as the allowance of four wives, were often created to suit personal interests.

Punic Maritime Engineering and Heritage

Evidence links the Phoenicians of Carthage to Lebanon through artifacts, gods like Baalhamun, and stone inscriptions. The Phoenicians were master boat builders who created highly sophisticated ports.  A rectangular commercial harbor was dug 18 meters deep to hold 200 boats. A unique circular military harbor, the only one of its kind still existing, could hold 22 ships with three layers of rowers.

Modern Tunisian Economy and Schedule

Friday is the religious holy day for Muslims, but it is not the start of the weekend in Tunisia. The weekend is set as Saturday and Sunday to align with European markets. This choice facilitates trade, as most exports and imports involve European partners.  Maintaining a different weekend would leave only three days for active international business.

Arriving a the famous "Day in the Life" portion of our trip, we listened to the story of Jihad, a former mechanical engineer who quit his corporate job in 2012 to start a feeding farm in La Marsa, Tunisia. Inspired by the 2011 Revolution when neighbors had no food reserves, he dedicated himself to preserving Berber and Andalusian culinary heritage. Jihad shared the challenges of moving from the city to a barren olive grove, the struggle of starting from zero without a car, and his mission to teach others about sustainable farming and food preservation.

Cultural Heritage and Culinary Fusion

The speaker's heritage is a blend of Andalusian and Berber cultures, reflecting the demographic history of the region. This mix of cultures created a unique "Tunisian table" where ancestral know-how is combined to create traditional cuisine. The speaker emphasizes that this culinary heritage belongs to everyone in the region and needs to be preserved for future generations.

The Turning Point: 2011 Revolution

During the 2011 Tunisian Revolution, the speaker realized the vulnerability of food security when shops and restaurants closed. While neighbors had nothing to eat, the speaker’s family had a traditional granary that allowed them to distribute food to others. This moment of community support and local resilience sparked the joy and inspiration to create a "feeding farm."

Transition to Sustainable Farming

In 2012, the speaker chose to quit a career as a mechanical engineer to start a small farm from scratch. The project focuses on producing food that can last for three years without preservatives, using traditional techniques to manage environmental uncertainty like lack of rain. Despite the initial struggle and the difficulty of leaving city life, the farm has become a reality, evolving from a simple olive grove into a lush garden and an educational hub.

Overcoming Personal and Professional Challenges

The transition was a major life shift, involving the sale of a car and quitting a job just one week before his wedding. There was a significant emotional challenge in convincing his wife to move to a place that, at the time, looked like a "mess" with nothing but olive trees. The speaker reclaims the name "Jihad" in its true sense: a struggle to build something meaningful and protect cultural heritage.

Educational and Community Impact

The farm now serves as a model for "farm-to-table" dining and ecological education. Universities and schools visit the site to learn about microbiology, small-scale farming, and sustainable gardening. The business continues to expand as a family endeavor, with relatives managing different parts of the ancestral land to keep the tradition alive.

Jihad shared his deep connection to the land and his philosophy of sustainable agriculture. He explained traditional planting techniques, like the Carthaginian method for Mediterranean trees, and demonstrated how he uses companion planting with tomatoes and basil. He also discussed the financial freedom of avoiding bank loans to foster creativity in farming. The conversation moved through his home, touching on family history and Tunisian culture, before exploring the seasonal cycles of permaculture.

Agricultural Philosophy and the Carthaginian Method. The Carthaginian Method of Planting

A traditional Mediterranean technique involves digging a large hole filled with layers of compost, soil, branches, and rocks. Rocks are used to cover the tree, keeping soil fresh in summer and warm in winter. This structure prevents soil compaction from rain and allows water to infiltrate slowly, boosting growth in dry climates.

Natural Growth vs. Forced Growth

Observations on tree development show that a tree's canopy reflects the spread of its roots; if a tree remains small, its root system is struggling. Environmental factors like sun and rain can wound fruit, yet it remains edible and part of the natural cycle. 

Financial Freedom and Creative Integrity. Loans as a Trap for Creativity.

Jihad maintains a strict "no loan" policy, believing that debt kills creativity and independence. Relying on natural cycles in farming makes loans dangerous because agricultural output is random and dependent on nature, whereas bank payments are fixed. A philosophy of "earning before spending" is emphasized: only take a loan if it is a small fraction of what has already been earned.

Independence in Farming

You echoed Jihad's philosophy by explaining that your success in building low income housing in California was due to utilizing grants instead of loans.  The freedom not to have to pay fixed costs meant that you could respond to varying income from rental income.  Thus, you could respond to the need of the clients you housed, and not the needs of the banks.  

Permaculture and Seasonal Wisdom. The Philosophy of the Four Seasons.

The garden is divided into four sections to represent the four seasons and the stages of plant growth. A simple rule for seasonal eating: Winter: Eat roots (carrots, onions) as the plant stops growing above ground. Spring: Eat flowers (artichokes, strawberries). Summer: Eat fruits (tomatoes, peppers, pumpkins). Year-round: Leaves (lettuce, fennel) can be consumed throughout.

Crop Rotation and Soil Health

A four-year cycle is followed: seeds (fava beans) -> roots -> leaves -> fruit.🍉Fava beans are used as "workers" to provide nitrogen to the soil, preparing it for the next stage of the cycle. Permaculture is defined here as permanent agriculture without engines, focusing on soil oxygenation and natural insect management through herbs like rosemary.

Cultural Heritage and Daily Life. Traditional Tunisian Living.

Practical use of Tunisian house roofs for rainwater collection, stored in underground tankers for irrigation. Preservation of traditional tools, such as stone mills used for crushing wheat into semolina for couscous. The significance of the "sepseri" (white dress) in Tunisian culture as a symbol of modesty and tradition.

Herbal Reproduction.

Use of floating plates to root perennial basil, distinguishing it from common annual basil used in modern cooking. Strategic companion planting: growing basil with tomatoes to support the tomato vines and improve health.

The Spirit of the Farm. Communication with Nature. 

The farmer speaks of trees as living entities that offer guidance on how to save and maintain the farm. Transitioning from selling raw fruit to value-added products like specialized olive oil for guest tables and food baskets. Recognition of the high polyphenol content in Tunisian olives, which provides health benefits and preserves the oil longer.

During a delightful lunch featuring fava beans, harissa, and farm-raised chicken, we explored the rich historical connections between Tunisia and Spain. We learned how family names like Pedrocci often reflect the cities ancestors fled during the Inquisition, such as Seville or Granada. The conversation begins with a discussion of various dishes and ingredients being served. Fava beans (baba beans) and chickpeas prepared with olive oil, cumin, and harissa Sun-dried tomatoes, raisins, fennel, and farm-raised chicken. Lemon juice sourced from a family culture. A specific culinary practice is noted regarding peeling certain ingredients based on familial traditions.

Historical and Ancestral Connections

The participants discuss the deep historical ties between Tunisia, Spain, and Portugal. Family names often reflect the city of origin, such as Portuguese, Sevilla (Ishbili), and Granada (Garnati). Other surnames are derived from professions or specific spices, like coriander or turmeric. The connection to the Andalusian road is highlighted through the work of a Spanish ambassador and historical travelers. Comparisons are drawn between the landscape of Tunisia and the south of Spain, specifically the rivers and trees.

Religious and Cultural Syncretism

The discussion explores the history of the Moriscos and the complexities of identity during the Inquisition. Families who were "Christians by day and Muslims by night" to survive religious persecution. Mention of "crypto-Christians" or Jewish families who lost the memory of their origins but maintained specific rituals. This blending of identities is characterized by the phrase "God in my heart," used when outward appearances had to meet the expectations of observers. The group compares naming conventions across different regions. In Tunisia and Spain, names are tied to cities, origins, or religions (like the name Tarifa or Toledo). In contrast, Norwegian naming traditions often lacked last names until the 19th century. A participant shares how their family name was derived from a geographical feature on their farm, specifically a "black rock" at the entrance. 

You finalized the logistics for tomorrow's early departure, covering everything from luggage collection to breakfast times. Suitcases need to be outside rooms by 5:00 AM for collection, with breakfast starting at 4:30 AM. You reviewed the check-in process for the flight and confirmed a 4:30 AM wake-up call for everyone. There was also a mention of a surprise waiting once you reach Djerba, adding a touch of mystery to the upcoming journey. The hotel restaurant will open for a buffet breakfast starting at 04:30. Guests are expected to be in the reception area by 05:15 to show passports and confirm luggage. The bus departure from the hotel is scheduled for 05:30. 

Staff will collect the luggage and bring it to the reception area for tagging. Backpacks can be transported by staff if placed on top of the suitcases.  The flight is scheduled for takeoff at 07:00 with an arrival in Djerba at 08:00. Check-in will be handled as a group under the organizer's name for convenience. The organizer is planning a special surprise for the group upon arrival in Djerba. There is a warm, protective atmosphere as the organizer coordinates safety details with the driver. The conversation reflects a sense of excitement and organized care for the group's journey. 

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia.

Wednesday, April 29th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we listened to an educational tour presentation as we traveled through Tunisia. The guide provided a geographical and cultural overview, highlighting Tunisia's status as a historically rich North African nation. He detailed the country’s demographics, economy, and the origin of the Berbers in the Atlas Mountains. The narrative touched on archaeological efforts to clarify Tunisia's timeline, and ended with a story about Queen Elisa and the Berbers before a scheduled break at a gas station on the way to the Dougga archaeological site.

Geographical and Demographic Overview of Tunisia.Tunisia is the smallest country in North Africa, situated between Egypt, Libya, Algeria, and Morocco. Despite its size, it is considered the richest in the region regarding Punic and Roman history. Population and Economy. The population reached 12 million inhabitants as of January 2026. Religious demographics: 96% Muslim, 1.7% Christian, 0.3% Jewish, and 1% non-believers. The currency is the Tunisian Dinar, with an approximate exchange rate of 3 Dinars to 1 US Dollar. Unemployment stands at 15.2%, and inflation is around 4.2%. 

The Berbers: The Original Inhabitants. Berbers are the indigenous people of Tunisia and North Africa, originally living in the Atlas Mountains. Cave Dwellings. Early Berbers lived in caves to protect themselves from the lions of the Atlas. Their social structure was based on tribal chiefs rather than kings. Nomenclature. Any village or town name starting with the letter "T" typically indicates a Berber origin (e.g., Tenaiste). Tenaiste originally meant "the key" in the Berber language.

The Founding of Carthage. According to legend, Princess Elisa (Dido) was forced to flee her home in Lebanon after her father died, and her brother celebrated his new throne by killing her husband, and threatening to kill her.  she sailed with her fleet west to Tunisia, and arrived and negotiated for land with a Berber King. Berber tradition forbade selling land to foreigners. Elisa cleverly used the "skin of an ox" (or cat in some variations) cut into thin strips to encircle a large area of land. The site was renamed Carthage, which translates to "New City." 

The Punic (Phoenicians marrying Berbers) Wars. Carthage and Rome were rival civilizations that fought three major wars for dominance over the Mediterranean Sea. First Punic War. A maritime conflict that resulted in a Carthaginian defeat. Carthage lost Sicily and Sardinia and was forced to pay heavy reparations. Second Punic War and Hannibal Barca. General Hannibal, son of Amilcar Barca, swore eternal enmity toward Rome. He led an army of 70,000 men and 40 elephants across the Alps to attack Rome from the north. Scientists confirmed his route in 2000 by detecting radioactive bacteria in ancient elephant droppings preserved in the snow. Third Punic War and Destruction. The Roman Senator Cato famously declared, "Cartago Delenda Est" (Carthage must be destroyed). Rome eventually burned Carthage to the ground in 146 BC and reportedly sowed the earth with salt to prevent life from returning.

The Archaeological Site of Dougga (Thugga). Dougga is recognized as one of the best-preserved Roman sites in the world, largely because it was protected by dirt for centuries. The Capitolium. A temple dedicated to the triad of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. It features a facade with six monolithic columns, each eight meters high. The structure utilized Opus Africanum, a building technique using lead between stones to absorb earthquake shocks. Urban Layout and Influence. The site includes a theater that could hold 3,500 people. 

It features a rare "wind rose" or compass carved into the stone near the marketplace. Dougga served as a "breadbasket" for Rome, producing vast quantities of wheat and olive oil. Civilization Layers. The site contains evidence of Berber, Punic, Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic civilizations. There are over 3,000 inscriptions found at the site in four languages: Berber, Punic, Greek, and Latin. Most of the larger structures were built between the second and thrid Punic wars between 170 and 160 BC.  It is estimated that Tunisia has 30,000 sites like this.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, April 29th, Tunis, Tunisia.

Tuesday, April 28th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

We explored the Bardo Museum in Tunisia, guided through its world-renowned collection of ancient mosaics. Our guide highlighted the Virgil mosaic, explaining its unique placement on a wall rather than a floor. You moved through the former king's palace, learning about its 1930s electrical history and the hidden architecture of a Roman bath within a palace mosaic. Finally, you admired the 'Neptune and the Four Seasons' masterpiece, where the guide explained the symbolic representations of size, divinity, and seasonal imagery.

The Mosaic of the Writer Virgil depicts Virgil with a paper in his left hand featuring Latin text: "Muses Cosas Mihime Moras" (Muse help me to remember). His eyes are fixed on a single point, deep in the process of creation. Accompanied by Clio (muse of literature) and Melpomen (muse of tragedy). Features incredible artistic detail, such as sheer fabric effects on dresses and specific lighting/shading from the left.

It is the masterpiece of the Bardo Museum, unique because it was found on a wall in Hadrumetum, whereas most mosaics were found on floors. The mosaic is entirely original and has never been repainted.

The Royal Bedrooms. Before 1956, polygamy was permitted, and the palace featured four rooms for the king's four wives.  The rooms are arranged around a courtyard; the king did not have his own bedroom but visited his wives on a rotating schedule.

The Bardo Museum is undergoing structural support for the rooftop, which was built in 1881. A major renovation is planned for January 2027 to address safety risks.

The Dining Room Discoveries. Recovery of Artifacts. Several statues and artifacts returned to Tunisia after being in Italy for 11 years. Local guides fought for their return, as the "cleaning" process was used as an excuse for the long absence. The ceiling decorations and colors date back to 1937.  The palace was the first building in Tunisia to have electricity (1936), evidenced by the installation of a grand chandelier.

A detailed mosaic shows the variety of maritime fauna in Roman Carthage, including various fish sizes and species. The "Visual Trap".  A complex mosaic that challenges viewers to identify a central building. Details in the corners (hunting ducks and picking olives) provide clues about the seasons. The Solution.  The building represents a palace hiding a public bath. Evidence includes steam rising from small domes (the hot room of the bath) and a large dome representing the palace itself. A palm tree is placed to indicate depth and objects behind the main structure. 

Neptune and the Four Seasons.  Symbolism of the Sea God. Neptune is depicted as a giant; the artist used a tiny dolphin in his hand to emphasize his massive scale. Behind his head, a moon symbol further indicates his divinity. The Four Seasons. Spring: Represented by a lady surrounded by flowers. Winter: Shown as a woman bundled in clothing, hunting ducks. Summer: A figure in light clothing, reflecting the heat. Fall: Depicted as a "drunk" lady with blue around her eyes, surrounded by grapes, signifying the harvest and celebration. Ulysses and the Mermaids. Island of the Sirens. Based on the legend of Ulysses (Odysseus) passing the island of Jerba.  Features sirens playing music to lure sailors. Recognized as the third major masterpiece within the Bardo Museum's collection.

We took a guided tour through the Medina of Tunis, learning about the historic abolition of slavery in 1846 by Ahmed Bey, who famously compensated slave owners with gold on the condition they became jewelry merchants. Our guide explained the intricate, traditional process of crafting the 'Shashia' (red felt hat) from sheep's wool. The tour concluded at a local market where the group navigated ordering a traditional Tunisian lunch, specifically focusing on Shakshuka and various sandwiches.

Abolition of Slavery in Tunisia. Historical context of January 23, 1846. Before this date, a slave market existed in the Medina of Tunis where people were bought from caravans. Ahmed Bey abolished slavery, facing pushback from shop owners who felt they were losing their financial investments.

Compensation and economic shift. The King offered to pay back the owners in gold rather than coins. This gold came with a condition: owners had to use it to create a new fortune through jewelry-making, rather than buying people. The guide notes this was a symbolic gesture giving Tunisian women a value "equal to gold.". Modern gold market regulations.  Shops in the Medina sell up to 18-carat gold, monitored closely by the Minister of Finance. Selling "fake gold" results in a lifetime ban for the shop.

The Tradition of the Sheshia. Manufacturing process of the red hat. The process begins after the Muslim sacrifice of sheep, using the animal's wool. Wool is cleaned in rivers and hand-processed by mothers in the Medina. The hats are shrunk from a large size to a small, soft fit through a 24-hour boiling process involving salt and fire. Cultural significance and styles. Red hats are for the Tunisian market, white for Algeria, and black for Libya. Traditionally, grandfathers bought them for grandsons to be worn "like a crown," teaching children to walk with pride and good posture. Today, women also wear them in various colors (like pink) to match traditional wedding outfits.

Local Culinary Experience. Authentic Tunisian dishes. Shakshuka: A red sauce cooked in olive oil with green peppers and eggs, often served with chicken or beef sausage. Brik (Fingers of Fatina): A fried pastry often filled with cheese and tuna. Kaskrut: A Tunisian sandwich often served with salad, mayonnaise, and sometimes fries. The group discussed ordering various versions of Shakshuka and sandwiches. The guide encouraged a light lunch in anticipation of a large traditional "welcome dinner" featuring couscous later in the evening.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, April 28th, Tunis, Tunisia