Today, we took a long seven-hour ride where our guide shared insights into the local political landscape, mentioning the frequency of changing prime ministers since the revolution. The conversation touched on environmental concerns regarding pollution and waste. The guide then offered a brief visit to a local sheep and goat animal market, emphasizing strict security protocols by asking everyone to leave their belongings and phones behind while he takes photos for the group. The speaker reflects on the significant political turnover following the revolution, highlighting a period of intense transition. In a span of ten years, the country saw eleven different Prime Ministers, which illustrates the complex journey toward stability. There is a visible struggle with pollution as people frequently discard plastic bags and paper from their vehicles, impacting the natural beauty of the area. Despite the sadness of environmental neglect, there is a silver lining in the digital awareness surrounding the issue, with approximately 120,000 mentions on websites.
While exploring a pistachio orchard in Tunisia, your companions visited what is considered the most visited pistachio tree in the country. We navigated the rocky terrain in sandals, discussing the extensive root systems of the trees and the lack of signage for the site. The group considered using AI to compare tree sizes and contemplated whether it was permissible to pick the pistachios, ultimately deciding against it while admiring the young, developing nuts. Despite its popularity, the speakers noted a lack of official signage, finding humor in the idea of a "pistachios this way" sign. Observation of the trees highlighted their extensive root systems and the varying sizes of the plants across the field. Walking through the orchard involved navigating dusty terrain filled with small rocks and dirt. Both speakers chose to wear sandals, leading to the relatable and painful experience of getting pebbles stuck under their feet. This shared struggle added a lighthearted, empathetic touch to the excursion as they navigated the "bunch of dirt" together.
We took a guided tour through the ancient Roman archaeological site of Sbeitla, also known as Sufetula. The guide shared historical insights, explaining that the city once housed 90,000 residents, and is unique for having three separate temples for the gods Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. We learned about the site's extensive reconstruction, which has kept it off the UNESCO World Heritage list, and viewed ancient olive oil presses and water cisterns while discussing the area's significance through Islamic and World War II history. Sbeitla, originally known as Sufeitula, was established in the first century AD. It was historically the largest Roman city in Tunisia, spanning approximately 90 acres. A significant portion of the city—estimated at 88%—has been rebuilt during excavations starting in 1979. These reconstructions often lack definitive archaeological or historical proof, which has impacted its official recognition. Hannibal once described the location as the key to controlling all of Africa. The site saw transitions between multiple civilizations, including the Romans, Vandals, and Byzantines. It served as a critical gateway for the Muslim conquest of the region, specifically leading toward Kairouan. The area is known in local dialect as the city of the "Seven Abdullahs," referring to seven Muslim leaders who fought Byzantine resistance here.The site is unique because the Romans separated the "Trinity" (Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva) into three distinct temples rather than housing them in one. This separation is a rare architectural feature found in only two cities worldwide. A press for extra virgin olive oil was built during the Byzantine era, unusually located right in the middle of a main road. It includes stone structures for grinding olives and specific reservoirs used as units of measurement for buyers. Key landmarks include the Cardo Maximus (a main Roman road), covered cisterns for water reservoirs, and shops built for Roman citizens. Access to the sacred temple area is marked by the Triumphal Arch of Diocletian. Sbeitla played a strategic role during the Second World War. It served as a battlefield determining the presence of opposing powers in the region.We enjoyed a lively lunch with a group, sharing stories about your approach to philanthropy and your 'no kids' retirement freedom. The conversation drifted into interesting historical anecdotes about New Zealand's 'six o'clock swill' and liquor laws. While waiting for a flight of local dishes including barley soup, lemon desserts, and 'tooth butter,' we discussed everything from marathon running in Portugal to the nuances of local service. The meal concluded with a round of drinks and shared appreciation for the hospitality. Memories were shared about "tooth butter" in the New Zealand's South Island—putting such a thick layer of butter on bread that teeth marks are visible. Discussions touched on travel experiences, including walking marathons and the hilly terrain encountered on European trails like the Camino de Santiago. The group enjoys a meal together, discussing various foods and flavors: Trying to identify ingredients in a "cookie crust" or "gelatin" based pie. Complimenting the soup and discussing whether ketchup should be used for eggs or chicken. The servers are noted for being attentive and generous with portions, which contributes to a positive, communal atmosphere.There is a sense of lighthearted confusion regarding the staff at the venue, questioning if they are brothers or a father-son duo. The environment is described as well-maintained or recently remodeled, adding to the comfort of the gathering. The conversation ends on a friendly note as the group orders drinks, including beer and Coca-Cola, while preparing to move on to their hotel.
During the day, we listened to a detailed discussion about various social and political aspects of Tunisia. The conversation touched upon the complexities of sexual services and migration to Gulf countries, as well as the specific requirements and exemptions for Tunisia's obligatory military service for men. We also heard about the country's political history, focusing on the shift from a single-party dominant system under President Ben Ali to the changes brought about by the Tunisian revolution. All Tunisian men are required to serve one year in the military starting at age 20. Military service is optional for women beginning at age 20. Homosexual men are not permitted to serve in the army. Individuals who are the only son and the sole financial provider for their family. Married men under the age of 35 who have at least one child. We also heard a discussion of a trend where some women travel to Gulf countries (including Dubai, Qatar, Kuwait, and Bahrain) to provide sexual services in exchange for significant financial compensation. For 23 years, Tunisia was dominated by a single political entity, the Democratic Constitutional Rally party, under President Ben Ali. The transition from a single-party system to a diverse political environment involving various ideologies across the right and left wings.
We listened to an explanation regarding migration patterns between Tunisia and Italy, specifically focusing on the island of Pantelleria. The discussion covered the legal and illegal routes migrants take, the role of Italian police in transfers to Sicily, and the requirements for residency and citizenship. It also highlighted the shift in Tunisia's role from being a sender of migrants to becoming a receiver of sub-Saharan people since 2021, while noting the socio-economic impacts on local communities. Pantelleria serves as a primary entry point, located 60 miles from Tunisia. The Italian police (La Squadra) transport migrants from the island to Sicily for processing. Movement within the country is managed via specific permissions and limited mobility guidelines. Migrants can obtain residence cards if they secure employment and pay taxes. Eligibility for passports is established after a five-year period of legal residence and work. Lack of employment is identified as a primary cause of social instability and "troubles. Illegal entry is often driven by the inability to afford official visa fees and travel costs. While many migrants seek peaceful employment, some have formed communities operating outside the law. Specific issues noted include involvement in drug trafficking in Italy and Southern France. Traditionally, Tunisia was a sender of illegal immigrants to Southern Europe. Since 2021, the country has transitioned into a receiver of sub-Saharan migrants.
We are focusing on the cultural and religious heart of Kairouan. Our guide explained the plan for tomorrow is to visit the Great Mosque and cross the Medina, highlighting historical figures who have visited recently. We also learned about the intricate craft of local carpet weaving, including the classical African mosque designs and the vibrant Berber styles. There is an opportunity for shopping in the afternoon, where the guide shared his personal tradition of buying wedding rugs here. The tour includes a visit to the closest possible point to the praying area of the mosque followed by a walk through the Medina. The walk through the Medina of Kairouan takes approximately 30 to 35 minutes. The area holds historical significance, having hosted notable figures like Queen Elizabeth II and Hillary Clinton. A free afternoon is planned for tomorrow to allow for shopping and personal exploration. The guide offers to assist with visiting specific shops for those interested in using credit cards or making final purchases. The guide shares a deep appreciation for the local craftsmanship and the beauty of Kairouan's famous rugs. Designs range from classical patterns representing the first mosque in Africa to vibrant Berber styles. The most refined and "fancy" rugs are a point of local pride and cultural heritage. A personal connection is shared, noting that even locals, including the guide himself, purchase these carpets for significant life events like weddings. This highlights the joy and communal value found in supporting the local women who create these intricate pieces.
We arrived at Hotel La Caspa in Kairouan. During the bus ride, the group touched on the complexities of immigration in Tunisia, noting the irony of arguing against it while being travelers ourselves. Upon arrival, the focus shifted to hotel logistics—finding rooms, checking for hot water, and exploring amenities like the hammam and massage services as we settled in for the evening. Guests received their room assignments for the second floor, with specific instructions on how to use the elevator and locate their rooms. Mention was made of the beautiful hotel architecture and decor, with travelers specifically admiring the aesthetics of the building and its unique features. Practical checks were encouraged for room amenities, such as ensuring the availability of hot water and checking the functionality of phones. Information was provided regarding the on-site spa services. Guests were encouraged to visit the wellness center at the end of the corridor to book appointments for the following free afternoon. The atmosphere was one of relaxation and anticipation for the restorative services available after a long day of travel. Minor concerns, such as locating misplaced items like a "whisper" device, were handled with helpfulness and cooperation between the travelers.To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, May 6th, Kairouan, Tunisia






















































