Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

We listened to an in-depth presentation on Tunisia's history as you traveled from Tunis. The guide detailed the destruction and rebuilding of Carthage by the Romans, the subsequent Vandal and Byzantine occupations, and the arrival of Islam in 670 AD.  A key distinction was made between a 'Muslim country' and an 'Islamic country' based on legal structures. The discussion concluded with insights into Phoenician maritime engineering in Carthage and how Tunisia aligns its weekend with Europe for economic reasons.

Roman Carthage and the Reconstruction

The Punics were a mixture of Berbers and Phoenicians who inhabited the region. Carthage remained a "ghost city" for a century following its destruction in 146 BC.  Julius Caesar ordered the rebuilding of Carthage in 46 BC as a smaller copy of Rome.  Buildings were constructed with the same decorations but at half the size.  This was intended as a message of humiliation to non-Romans.  Carthage served as the "Granary of Rome," feeding the empire while paying higher taxes than Romans in Italy.

Foreign Occupations and the Path to Independence

To gain independence from Rome, Carthaginians hired the Vandals as mercenaries. The Vandals subsequently occupied the area for 90 years, destroying cities and imposing heavy taxes. The Byzantines from Istanbul later liberated the area from the Vandals and ruled for two centuries. Subsequent waves of occupation included the Spanish, the Ottomans (for four centuries), and the French. The French protectorate lasted from 1881 to 1956. Post-independence, Tunisia shifted from a kingdom with 17 kings to a republic led by President Bourguiba.

Distinguishing Between Muslim and Islamic Countries

Tunisia is defined as a Muslim country rather than an Islamic country. In a Muslim country, the law and constitution are not derived directly from the Quran. An Islamic country uses laws based on human interpretations of the holy book. The lecturer noted that linguistic nuances in Arabic can drastically change the meaning of words. Historical interpretations by Sultans or Caliphs, such as the allowance of four wives, were often created to suit personal interests.

Punic Maritime Engineering and Heritage

Evidence links the Phoenicians of Carthage to Lebanon through artifacts, gods like Baalhamun, and stone inscriptions. The Phoenicians were master boat builders who created highly sophisticated ports.  A rectangular commercial harbor was dug 18 meters deep to hold 200 boats. A unique circular military harbor, the only one of its kind still existing, could hold 22 ships with three layers of rowers.

Modern Tunisian Economy and Schedule

Friday is the religious holy day for Muslims, but it is not the start of the weekend in Tunisia. The weekend is set as Saturday and Sunday to align with European markets. This choice facilitates trade, as most exports and imports involve European partners.  Maintaining a different weekend would leave only three days for active international business.

Arriving a the famous "Day in the Life" portion of our trip, we listened to the story of Jihad, a former mechanical engineer who quit his corporate job in 2012 to start a feeding farm in La Marsa, Tunisia. Inspired by the 2011 Revolution when neighbors had no food reserves, he dedicated himself to preserving Berber and Andalusian culinary heritage. Jihad shared the challenges of moving from the city to a barren olive grove, the struggle of starting from zero without a car, and his mission to teach others about sustainable farming and food preservation.

Cultural Heritage and Culinary Fusion

The speaker's heritage is a blend of Andalusian and Berber cultures, reflecting the demographic history of the region. This mix of cultures created a unique "Tunisian table" where ancestral know-how is combined to create traditional cuisine. The speaker emphasizes that this culinary heritage belongs to everyone in the region and needs to be preserved for future generations.

The Turning Point: 2011 Revolution

During the 2011 Tunisian Revolution, the speaker realized the vulnerability of food security when shops and restaurants closed. While neighbors had nothing to eat, the speaker’s family had a traditional granary that allowed them to distribute food to others. This moment of community support and local resilience sparked the joy and inspiration to create a "feeding farm."

Transition to Sustainable Farming

In 2012, the speaker chose to quit a career as a mechanical engineer to start a small farm from scratch. The project focuses on producing food that can last for three years without preservatives, using traditional techniques to manage environmental uncertainty like lack of rain. Despite the initial struggle and the difficulty of leaving city life, the farm has become a reality, evolving from a simple olive grove into a lush garden and an educational hub.

Overcoming Personal and Professional Challenges

The transition was a major life shift, involving the sale of a car and quitting a job just one week before his wedding. There was a significant emotional challenge in convincing his wife to move to a place that, at the time, looked like a "mess" with nothing but olive trees. The speaker reclaims the name "Jihad" in its true sense: a struggle to build something meaningful and protect cultural heritage.

Educational and Community Impact

The farm now serves as a model for "farm-to-table" dining and ecological education. Universities and schools visit the site to learn about microbiology, small-scale farming, and sustainable gardening. The business continues to expand as a family endeavor, with relatives managing different parts of the ancestral land to keep the tradition alive.

Jihad shared his deep connection to the land and his philosophy of sustainable agriculture. He explained traditional planting techniques, like the Carthaginian method for Mediterranean trees, and demonstrated how he uses companion planting with tomatoes and basil. He also discussed the financial freedom of avoiding bank loans to foster creativity in farming. The conversation moved through his home, touching on family history and Tunisian culture, before exploring the seasonal cycles of permaculture.

Agricultural Philosophy and the Carthaginian Method. The Carthaginian Method of Planting

A traditional Mediterranean technique involves digging a large hole filled with layers of compost, soil, branches, and rocks. Rocks are used to cover the tree, keeping soil fresh in summer and warm in winter. This structure prevents soil compaction from rain and allows water to infiltrate slowly, boosting growth in dry climates.

Natural Growth vs. Forced Growth

Observations on tree development show that a tree's canopy reflects the spread of its roots; if a tree remains small, its root system is struggling. Environmental factors like sun and rain can wound fruit, yet it remains edible and part of the natural cycle. 

Financial Freedom and Creative Integrity. Loans as a Trap for Creativity.

Jihad maintains a strict "no loan" policy, believing that debt kills creativity and independence. Relying on natural cycles in farming makes loans dangerous because agricultural output is random and dependent on nature, whereas bank payments are fixed. A philosophy of "earning before spending" is emphasized: only take a loan if it is a small fraction of what has already been earned.

Independence in Farming

You echoed Jihad's philosophy by explaining that your success in building low income housing in California was due to utilizing grants instead of loans.  The freedom not to have to pay fixed costs meant that you could respond to varying income from rental income.  Thus, you could respond to the need of the clients you housed, and not the needs of the banks.  

Permaculture and Seasonal Wisdom. The Philosophy of the Four Seasons.

The garden is divided into four sections to represent the four seasons and the stages of plant growth. A simple rule for seasonal eating: Winter: Eat roots (carrots, onions) as the plant stops growing above ground. Spring: Eat flowers (artichokes, strawberries). Summer: Eat fruits (tomatoes, peppers, pumpkins). Year-round: Leaves (lettuce, fennel) can be consumed throughout.

Crop Rotation and Soil Health

A four-year cycle is followed: seeds (fava beans) -> roots -> leaves -> fruit.🍉Fava beans are used as "workers" to provide nitrogen to the soil, preparing it for the next stage of the cycle. Permaculture is defined here as permanent agriculture without engines, focusing on soil oxygenation and natural insect management through herbs like rosemary.

Cultural Heritage and Daily Life. Traditional Tunisian Living.

Practical use of Tunisian house roofs for rainwater collection, stored in underground tankers for irrigation. Preservation of traditional tools, such as stone mills used for crushing wheat into semolina for couscous. The significance of the "sepseri" (white dress) in Tunisian culture as a symbol of modesty and tradition.

Herbal Reproduction.

Use of floating plates to root perennial basil, distinguishing it from common annual basil used in modern cooking. Strategic companion planting: growing basil with tomatoes to support the tomato vines and improve health.

The Spirit of the Farm. Communication with Nature. 

The farmer speaks of trees as living entities that offer guidance on how to save and maintain the farm. Transitioning from selling raw fruit to value-added products like specialized olive oil for guest tables and food baskets. Recognition of the high polyphenol content in Tunisian olives, which provides health benefits and preserves the oil longer.

During a delightful lunch featuring fava beans, harissa, and farm-raised chicken, we explored the rich historical connections between Tunisia and Spain. We learned how family names like Pedrocci often reflect the cities ancestors fled during the Inquisition, such as Seville or Granada. The conversation begins with a discussion of various dishes and ingredients being served. Fava beans (baba beans) and chickpeas prepared with olive oil, cumin, and harissa Sun-dried tomatoes, raisins, fennel, and farm-raised chicken. Lemon juice sourced from a family culture. A specific culinary practice is noted regarding peeling certain ingredients based on familial traditions.

Historical and Ancestral Connections

The participants discuss the deep historical ties between Tunisia, Spain, and Portugal. Family names often reflect the city of origin, such as Portuguese, Sevilla (Ishbili), and Granada (Garnati). Other surnames are derived from professions or specific spices, like coriander or turmeric. The connection to the Andalusian road is highlighted through the work of a Spanish ambassador and historical travelers. Comparisons are drawn between the landscape of Tunisia and the south of Spain, specifically the rivers and trees.

Religious and Cultural Syncretism

The discussion explores the history of the Moriscos and the complexities of identity during the Inquisition. Families who were "Christians by day and Muslims by night" to survive religious persecution. Mention of "crypto-Christians" or Jewish families who lost the memory of their origins but maintained specific rituals. This blending of identities is characterized by the phrase "God in my heart," used when outward appearances had to meet the expectations of observers. The group compares naming conventions across different regions. In Tunisia and Spain, names are tied to cities, origins, or religions (like the name Tarifa or Toledo). In contrast, Norwegian naming traditions often lacked last names until the 19th century. A participant shares how their family name was derived from a geographical feature on their farm, specifically a "black rock" at the entrance. 

You finalized the logistics for tomorrow's early departure, covering everything from luggage collection to breakfast times. Suitcases need to be outside rooms by 5:00 AM for collection, with breakfast starting at 4:30 AM. You reviewed the check-in process for the flight and confirmed a 4:30 AM wake-up call for everyone. There was also a mention of a surprise waiting once you reach Djerba, adding a touch of mystery to the upcoming journey. The hotel restaurant will open for a buffet breakfast starting at 04:30. Guests are expected to be in the reception area by 05:15 to show passports and confirm luggage. The bus departure from the hotel is scheduled for 05:30. 

Staff will collect the luggage and bring it to the reception area for tagging. Backpacks can be transported by staff if placed on top of the suitcases.  The flight is scheduled for takeoff at 07:00 with an arrival in Djerba at 08:00. Check-in will be handled as a group under the organizer's name for convenience. The organizer is planning a special surprise for the group upon arrival in Djerba. There is a warm, protective atmosphere as the organizer coordinates safety details with the driver. The conversation reflects a sense of excitement and organized care for the group's journey. 

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia.

Wednesday, April 29th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we listened to an educational tour presentation as we traveled through Tunisia. The guide provided a geographical and cultural overview, highlighting Tunisia's status as a historically rich North African nation. He detailed the country’s demographics, economy, and the origin of the Berbers in the Atlas Mountains. The narrative touched on archaeological efforts to clarify Tunisia's timeline, and ended with a story about Queen Elisa and the Berbers before a scheduled break at a gas station on the way to the Dougga archaeological site.

Geographical and Demographic Overview of Tunisia.Tunisia is the smallest country in North Africa, situated between Egypt, Libya, Algeria, and Morocco. Despite its size, it is considered the richest in the region regarding Punic and Roman history. Population and Economy. The population reached 12 million inhabitants as of January 2026. Religious demographics: 96% Muslim, 1.7% Christian, 0.3% Jewish, and 1% non-believers. The currency is the Tunisian Dinar, with an approximate exchange rate of 3 Dinars to 1 US Dollar. Unemployment stands at 15.2%, and inflation is around 4.2%. 

The Berbers: The Original Inhabitants. Berbers are the indigenous people of Tunisia and North Africa, originally living in the Atlas Mountains. Cave Dwellings. Early Berbers lived in caves to protect themselves from the lions of the Atlas. Their social structure was based on tribal chiefs rather than kings. Nomenclature. Any village or town name starting with the letter "T" typically indicates a Berber origin (e.g., Tenaiste). Tenaiste originally meant "the key" in the Berber language.

The Founding of Carthage. According to legend, Princess Elisa (Dido) was forced to flee her home in Lebanon after her father died, and her brother celebrated his new throne by killing her husband, and threatening to kill her.  she sailed with her fleet west to Tunisia, and arrived and negotiated for land with a Berber King. Berber tradition forbade selling land to foreigners. Elisa cleverly used the "skin of an ox" (or cat in some variations) cut into thin strips to encircle a large area of land. The site was renamed Carthage, which translates to "New City." 

The Punic (Phoenicians marrying Berbers) Wars. Carthage and Rome were rival civilizations that fought three major wars for dominance over the Mediterranean Sea. First Punic War. A maritime conflict that resulted in a Carthaginian defeat. Carthage lost Sicily and Sardinia and was forced to pay heavy reparations. Second Punic War and Hannibal Barca. General Hannibal, son of Amilcar Barca, swore eternal enmity toward Rome. He led an army of 70,000 men and 40 elephants across the Alps to attack Rome from the north. Scientists confirmed his route in 2000 by detecting radioactive bacteria in ancient elephant droppings preserved in the snow. Third Punic War and Destruction. The Roman Senator Cato famously declared, "Cartago Delenda Est" (Carthage must be destroyed). Rome eventually burned Carthage to the ground in 146 BC and reportedly sowed the earth with salt to prevent life from returning.

The Archaeological Site of Dougga (Thugga). Dougga is recognized as one of the best-preserved Roman sites in the world, largely because it was protected by dirt for centuries. The Capitolium. A temple dedicated to the triad of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. It features a facade with six monolithic columns, each eight meters high. The structure utilized Opus Africanum, a building technique using lead between stones to absorb earthquake shocks. Urban Layout and Influence. The site includes a theater that could hold 3,500 people. 

It features a rare "wind rose" or compass carved into the stone near the marketplace. Dougga served as a "breadbasket" for Rome, producing vast quantities of wheat and olive oil. Civilization Layers. The site contains evidence of Berber, Punic, Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic civilizations. There are over 3,000 inscriptions found at the site in four languages: Berber, Punic, Greek, and Latin. Most of the larger structures were built between the second and thrid Punic wars between 170 and 160 BC.  It is estimated that Tunisia has 30,000 sites like this.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, April 29th, Tunis, Tunisia.

Tuesday, April 28th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

We explored the Bardo Museum in Tunisia, guided through its world-renowned collection of ancient mosaics. Our guide highlighted the Virgil mosaic, explaining its unique placement on a wall rather than a floor. You moved through the former king's palace, learning about its 1930s electrical history and the hidden architecture of a Roman bath within a palace mosaic. Finally, you admired the 'Neptune and the Four Seasons' masterpiece, where the guide explained the symbolic representations of size, divinity, and seasonal imagery.

The Mosaic of the Writer Virgil depicts Virgil with a paper in his left hand featuring Latin text: "Muses Cosas Mihime Moras" (Muse help me to remember). His eyes are fixed on a single point, deep in the process of creation. Accompanied by Clio (muse of literature) and Melpomen (muse of tragedy). Features incredible artistic detail, such as sheer fabric effects on dresses and specific lighting/shading from the left.

It is the masterpiece of the Bardo Museum, unique because it was found on a wall in Hadrumetum, whereas most mosaics were found on floors. The mosaic is entirely original and has never been repainted.

The Royal Bedrooms. Before 1956, polygamy was permitted, and the palace featured four rooms for the king's four wives.  The rooms are arranged around a courtyard; the king did not have his own bedroom but visited his wives on a rotating schedule.

The Bardo Museum is undergoing structural support for the rooftop, which was built in 1881. A major renovation is planned for January 2027 to address safety risks.

The Dining Room Discoveries. Recovery of Artifacts. Several statues and artifacts returned to Tunisia after being in Italy for 11 years. Local guides fought for their return, as the "cleaning" process was used as an excuse for the long absence. The ceiling decorations and colors date back to 1937.  The palace was the first building in Tunisia to have electricity (1936), evidenced by the installation of a grand chandelier.

A detailed mosaic shows the variety of maritime fauna in Roman Carthage, including various fish sizes and species. The "Visual Trap".  A complex mosaic that challenges viewers to identify a central building. Details in the corners (hunting ducks and picking olives) provide clues about the seasons. The Solution.  The building represents a palace hiding a public bath. Evidence includes steam rising from small domes (the hot room of the bath) and a large dome representing the palace itself. A palm tree is placed to indicate depth and objects behind the main structure. 

Neptune and the Four Seasons.  Symbolism of the Sea God. Neptune is depicted as a giant; the artist used a tiny dolphin in his hand to emphasize his massive scale. Behind his head, a moon symbol further indicates his divinity. The Four Seasons. Spring: Represented by a lady surrounded by flowers. Winter: Shown as a woman bundled in clothing, hunting ducks. Summer: A figure in light clothing, reflecting the heat. Fall: Depicted as a "drunk" lady with blue around her eyes, surrounded by grapes, signifying the harvest and celebration. Ulysses and the Mermaids. Island of the Sirens. Based on the legend of Ulysses (Odysseus) passing the island of Jerba.  Features sirens playing music to lure sailors. Recognized as the third major masterpiece within the Bardo Museum's collection.

We took a guided tour through the Medina of Tunis, learning about the historic abolition of slavery in 1846 by Ahmed Bey, who famously compensated slave owners with gold on the condition they became jewelry merchants. Our guide explained the intricate, traditional process of crafting the 'Shashia' (red felt hat) from sheep's wool. The tour concluded at a local market where the group navigated ordering a traditional Tunisian lunch, specifically focusing on Shakshuka and various sandwiches.

Abolition of Slavery in Tunisia. Historical context of January 23, 1846. Before this date, a slave market existed in the Medina of Tunis where people were bought from caravans. Ahmed Bey abolished slavery, facing pushback from shop owners who felt they were losing their financial investments.

Compensation and economic shift. The King offered to pay back the owners in gold rather than coins. This gold came with a condition: owners had to use it to create a new fortune through jewelry-making, rather than buying people. The guide notes this was a symbolic gesture giving Tunisian women a value "equal to gold.". Modern gold market regulations.  Shops in the Medina sell up to 18-carat gold, monitored closely by the Minister of Finance. Selling "fake gold" results in a lifetime ban for the shop.

The Tradition of the Sheshia. Manufacturing process of the red hat. The process begins after the Muslim sacrifice of sheep, using the animal's wool. Wool is cleaned in rivers and hand-processed by mothers in the Medina. The hats are shrunk from a large size to a small, soft fit through a 24-hour boiling process involving salt and fire. Cultural significance and styles. Red hats are for the Tunisian market, white for Algeria, and black for Libya. Traditionally, grandfathers bought them for grandsons to be worn "like a crown," teaching children to walk with pride and good posture. Today, women also wear them in various colors (like pink) to match traditional wedding outfits.

Local Culinary Experience. Authentic Tunisian dishes. Shakshuka: A red sauce cooked in olive oil with green peppers and eggs, often served with chicken or beef sausage. Brik (Fingers of Fatina): A fried pastry often filled with cheese and tuna. Kaskrut: A Tunisian sandwich often served with salad, mayonnaise, and sometimes fries. The group discussed ordering various versions of Shakshuka and sandwiches. The guide encouraged a light lunch in anticipation of a large traditional "welcome dinner" featuring couscous later in the evening.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, April 28th, Tunis, Tunisia

Monday, April 27th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today was a traveling day, ending the pre-trip portion of our Tour in Constantine, flying back to Algiers, and then flying to Tunis, Tunisia,  Between flights, we visited the Grand Mosque in Algiers.  Many thanks to Houssem DegDeg, our Tour leader, for leading the first week of our trip.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Monday, April 27th, Tunis, Tunisia.

Sunday, April 26th, Constantine, Algeria

Greetings!

We visited the ancient Roman site of Tidis, 30 kilometers from Constantine. Our guide shared personal stories about traditional slaughtering practices before explaining how the Romans adapted Tidis as a defensive fortress. We explored the city's unique modifications, including cisterns for rainwater collection due to the rocky terrain and steep switchback streets. Highlights included visiting a cave temple dedicated to Mithra, seeing carvings of a bull, and learning about the distinct religious and social meanings behind phallic symbols found in the ruins.

The guide shares personal experiences and cultural practices regarding animal slaughter. Families often keep animals like sheep in gardens before rituals In Islamic tradition, the "men of the house" typically perform the slaughter, though neighbors or professional butchers can be hired. The process requires a very sharp knife and a quick execution to cut the vital arteries humanely. The guide recounts performing his first slaughter at the age of nineteen.

The group travels toward the ancient city of Tidis, noting the unique environment.  The soil is notably red and rich in iron, indicating high mineral content The site served as an advanced fortress to protect the city of Constantine from invaders. Travelers are advised to bring water and walking sticks for the steep, rocky terrain Atmosphere: There is a sense of joy and shared humor as the group jokes about the guide acting as a "mom and dad" to everyone on the trip

Tidis is described as an "exception" to typical Roman city planning due to its difficult, rocky terrain.  Unlike the straight streets of most Roman cities, the "Cardo Maximus" here features twists and S-shapes to navigate the steep climb.  Because there were no nearby rivers, the inhabitants built numerous smooth-lined cisterns to collect and store rainwater. The city shows a transition from pagan worship to Christianity, with small churches built into limited spaces. The group explores caves and temples used for spiritual purposes. Instead of building freestanding temples, inhabitants converted existing natural caves into places of worship for the god Mithra. Holes and carvings in the rock indicate where bulls were tied before spiritual sacrifices. The guide points out specific carvings used to denote different types of buildings. Phallic symbols with wings and legs represented religious fertility.  Similar symbols without wings indicated a "pleasure house" or brothel.

The group takes a moment to appreciate the natural surroundings amidst the historical tour. Bright red poppies are visible scattered across the landscape. The site provides a strategic vantage point where fires were once lit to signal the people of Constantine. The participants express happiness and satisfaction with the trip, finding beauty in the "wonderful" control and history of the location.

We engaged in an extensive and candid discussion about Algerian social, religious, and legal norms while traveling. The conversation covered marriage dynamics, including interfaith unions and cousin marriage, as well as views on adoption, IVF, and family inheritance. We also explored the evolution of women's rights in both Algeria and the West, the nuances of LGBTQ+ visibility and acceptance in a conservative society, and the daily intersection of Islamic principles with modern lifestyle choices like birth control and education.

Religious and cultural laws govern marriage and lineage. A Muslim man may marry a Christian woman, but she is often encouraged to convert to ensure children are raised Muslim. Muslim women are generally not permitted to marry non-Muslim men due to traditional views on patriarchal influence over children's religion. In certain tribes, such as the Mizabi, endogamy is common, though there is a growing modern preference for marrying outside the family to avoid genetic concerns. Formal adoption that changes a child's last name is forbidden in Islam to protect the family tree and clear. Families can take in and raise orphaned children (Kafala), providing for them financially and emotionally, though they do not inherit as biological children would. In Islamic law, a woman's money is hers alone; husbands are the sole providers responsible for food, shelter, and medicine. While women can choose to contribute to the household, they are not legally or religiously obligated to do so. Modern Algerian women have the right to own businesses, buy cars, and manage property independently. Comparisons were made to Western history, noting that until the 1970s, women in the US faced similar restrictions regarding credit and bank accounts. In Algeria, education is a universal right, and women now make up more than 50% of university students

Contraception is widely used, though some local cultural beliefs or medical advice suggest waiting until after the first or second child to start the pill. In Vitro Fertilization (IVF) is generally accepted by scholars provided the genetic material comes from the husband and wife. Sperm banks and surrogacy are largely rejected as they complicate lineage and religious definitions of parentage.

Divorce is religiously discouraged ("the most hated permissible thing") and often involves a mandatory reconciliation period with three court sessions. Men are legally required to provide child support and housing for the ex-wife and children. Previously a source of great shame, divorce is becoming more socially acceptable as women gain more freedom to leave abusive or unhappy marriages.

Homosexuality is not culturally or religiously accepted and is illegal to promote in public. While individuals are generally not harassed if they remain discreet, public displays of same-sex affection can lead to legal punishment or social backlash. There is a strong emphasis on "human respect" for individuals as productive members of society, even when their lifestyle is not condoned by the majority.

Society ranges from conservative to liberal; some women wear hijabs while others wear Western clothing or bikinis at private hotels or specific beaches. Men also have traditional modesty requirements, typically expected to cover the area from the belly button. to below the knee. 

The Guide hosted a group for a traditional Algerian meal, specifically highlighting the culinary specialties of Constantine. We carefully coordinated the seating and ordering, ensuring everyone could sample a variety of authentic dishes like chicken kofta, mahjuba, and a unique black couscous made from wheat. Throughout the lunch, our guide acted as a cultural teacher, explaining the ingredients, traditional eating customs, and the preparation of the semolina-based doughs and red sauces that define the region's rich gastronomic heritage.

The group is settling into a typical Algerian gathering, with some members being invited to sit at reserved tables. The host explains the traditional way of eating together from shared dishes, though they are providing separate plates for convenience. There is a lively and welcoming atmosphere as more chairs and supplies are brought in to accommodate everyone.

The host orders three traditional dishes typical of Constantine to provide a diverse tasting experience. Kufta: A dish made of chicken, served to the group as they begin their meal. Mahjuba: A famous savory pancake made of elastic semolina dough stuffed with onions, tomato, garlic, and olive oil, then cooked on a pan. Black Couscous: A unique variation made of wheat rather than semolina, served with a red broth, vegetables, and meat. Trida: A traditional pasta-like noodle dish served with vegetables. A variety of drink options are available, including still water, sparkling water, and various sodas like Coca-Cola and local brands. Special dietary needs are addressed, with a vegetarian dish specifically requested and prepared for one of the guests.

There is a clear sense of joy as the guests taste the food, particularly the Mahjuba, which was very well-received. The host takes pride in explaining the ingredients and heritage of each dish, creating a warm environment for cultural learning. Guests show appreciation for the flavors, with one guest noting how good a specific dish was and others encouraged to try the various pastas and sauces.

We took a guided tour through one of North Africa’s largest mosques, admiring its Andalusian architecture and intricate handmade details. Our guide explained the practical and spiritual aspects of the space, from the acoustic design of the Mihrab to the importance of memorizing the Quran in Arabic to preserve its meaning. We learned about the roles of Imams, the communal nature of Friday prayers, and unique traditions like using stones for ablution when water isn't available.

The mosque is one of the largest in North Africa, spanning 40 hectares including its gardens. It features Islamic Andalusian architecture, characterized by intricate handmade details throughout the interior and exterior. Notable structural features include two massive minarets, each reaching 107 meters in height. While an Egyptian architect designed the building, the detailed artistry was completed by skilled local artisans.

The Quran consists of 114 chapters and approximately 6,300 verses, varying in length. Memorization is a central tradition, often beginning at ages three or four when the brain is most elastic. Students learn specific techniques for pronunciation and melodic recitation from a master or teacher. While the Quran is translated into many languages for understanding, it must be memorized in Arabic to preserve its original meaning and rhythm. The text has remained unchanged for 1,400 years, dating back to when it was first revealed and later collected into a single book as the Islamic world expanded.

Muslims perform five daily prayers: dawn, midday, afternoon, sunset, and evening. The Imam leads the prayer from the Mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca and serves an acoustic purpose to project his voice. An assistant Imam stands behnd the leader to silently correct any mistakes in recitation, ensuring the prayer remains orderly. Friday prayers include a two-part sermon (Khutbah) delivered from the Minbar, a raised pulpit. Unlike some traditions, there is no confessional box; worshippers believe in a direct connection between themselves and God without intermediaries.

The mosque serves as a community hub where the Imam can help individuals facing financial or personal problems. Visitors are expected to remove their shoes before entering, placing them neatly together to avoid losing them. In this specific mosque, doors remain open for prayer throughout the day, whereas many other Algerian mosques close between prayer times. There is a dedicated area for women to perform their prayers, which is a notable feature of this large facility.

Ablution (Wudu): While water is the priority for ritual washing, stones or sand can be used (Tayammum) if water is unavailable or if a person has a skin condition. Donations: Many of the Quranic books in the mosque are donated by individuals seeking "good deeds" by sharing the holy text with others. Decorative Boxes: Wooden boxes throughout the mosque hold copies of the Quran for people to read between prayer sessions.

You engaged in an in-depth conversation with a guide about Islamic theology, science, and history. The discussion spanned a wide range of topics, including the creation of Adam and Eve, the role of Jesus as a prophet, and the specific miracles of Moses. You also explored the guide's perspective on the evolution theory—which he noted many Muslims reject in favor of direct creation—and the Islamic view on the afterlife, angels, and the nature of sin. The conversation concluded with a brief tour of his former university in Constantine.

God is beyond human comprehension and lacks a physical gender or form. The universe and all life forms are the result of deliberate, intelligent design rather than accidental evolution. Human beings were created directly in their current form, starting with Adam and Eve.

Belief in heaven and hell is central, but salvation is not guaranteed for anyone; it requires constant self-improvement.  Inhabitants of paradise remain there for eternity. Sins are categorized into major (e.g., disbelief, gambling, drinking) and minor (e.g., lying). Forgiveness is sought through direct prayer to God rather than through a confessional intermediary. Muslims believe in all prophets sent to every nation, including those mentioned in the Quran (Jesus, Moses, Abraham) and those unknown. Jesus was not crucified but was lifted by God and will return at the end of days to defeat the false messiah. Prophets are validated by miracles, such as Moses parting the sea or Jesus speaking in the cradle. While Buddha is not explicitly named as a prophet, there is a possibility he could have been one, as messengers were sent to all people.

Symbols like the crescent and star or the hand of Fatima have no inherent religious value or power. Symbolism is generally discouraged to prevent future generations from worshipping objects or paintings instead of God. Mosques are designed for efficiency, often featuring multiple doors to facilitate large groups of people during prayer. Guidance on prayer times and logistics for the group, including the collection of "whispers" (listening devices).

The theory of evolution is viewed as being in opposition to the existence of God and the purposeful creation of life. Science is studied for knowledge, but religious doctrine takes precedence regarding the origins of humanity. The age of the world is considered a detail of little spiritual benefit or consequence. There is an openness to the possibility of other creations or "aliens" given the vastness of the expanding universe, though they are not mentioned in scripture.

The speaker highlights the first university built in Constantine in the 1970s. Mention of the campus layout, including faculties and dormitories for students. Plans for dinner and travel to Algiers. Instructions for meeting in the hotel lobby at 6:30 PM

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Sunday, April 26th, Constantine, Algeria.

Saturday, April 25th, Constantine, Algeria

Greetings!

We explored the historic city of Constantine, Algeria, learning about its unique nicknames like the "City of Suspended Bridges", and the "City of Old Rocks." Our guide explained the city's geographical importance and the history of its eight bridges, including the famous Sidi M'Cid Bridge, which was once the world's highest. We discussed the French-built "touristic path" along the gorges ,and planned a walk across the bridge to meet up for a local lunch at noon.

Known as the city of suspended bridges and eagle nests. famous for its history of scholars who helped during the resistance. The first bridge, built in 1912, is the closest to the river. Sidi Rachad Bridge, or the "Hospital Bridge," stands 175 meters high. This bridge was the highest in the world until 1929 when Colorado's bridge surpassed it. French architecture and Algerian labor created the city's iconic structures. A "touristic path" created by the French allows walkers to explore the depths of the gorges. The river flows north between the massive rock pieces Environmental changes and city sewers have unfortunately eliminated the fish population in the river.

The group must reach the restaurant by 12:00 for their reservation.There is a choice between taking a bus or walking the steep path to the monument. The area serves as a physical archive of civilizations, showcasing layers of history through its various bridges. The Roman bridge sits at the bottom, characterized by two small arches. The Byzantine bridge is located where the stairs are currently situated. Remnants of an Ottoman bridge from the 17th century are visible to the right. The French built a connecting bridge in 1864, which facilitated travel between the two sides. Visitors can observe the progression of engineering from ancient stone paths to modern government projects. A massive bridge built by the government in 2015 now stands as the largest in the region. The "Sidi Rachad Bridge" is noted as a remarkably long stone bridge, measuring 400m in length according to local lore. Travelers used to navigate the hills by horse to descend into the valley and cross the river. The site offers a sensory and adventurous experience for those exploring the terrain. Visitors can actually feel the bridge bouncing under their feet, adding a sense of excitement to the crossing. While many stairs lead down to the ancient ruins for closer exploration, the descent is steep and challenging for some travelers

We enjoyed a meal at a historic Algerian restaurant that was formerly a hamam and a library. While dining, we discussed visa experiences, specifically how being young and single without property ties made traveling difficult in the past. The conversation shifted to our lunch choices, where we opted for vegetables and rice over traditional semolina dishes. We also learned about the local Mizabi culture reflected in the waiters' attire and the restaurant's unique 2014
renovation into a high-end tourist destination.

Traditional dishes included: Meat Tajin: A slow-cooked meat dish. Shbast Suffer: A Constantine specialty made of fried almond paste with honey syrup and cinnamon. Couscous and Semolina Pasta: Served with vegetables and boiled eggs. Drinks included Algerian coffee, "Americano" style coffee, and tea served with traditional sweets. Local street food highlights featured "Dirty and Delicious" square pizza and 12-hour slow-cooked chickpeas (Hummus) served with olive oil and harissa.

We found authentic handmade rugs from the M'zabite tribe, often featuring intricate geometric designs. High-end bridal dresses, such as the Karakou, can take up to eight months to handcraft and cost over $1,000. Artisans use traditional copper tools to extract rose and orange blossom water for cooking and beauty. The copper market remains a staple of local trade, alongside unique items like Tuareg swords and camel-skin products.

Weddings are a major event where brides change outfits up to five times, showcasing various regional styles from Algiers, Constantine, and Oran. The city follows a traditional schedule, becoming a "ghost town" on Fridays, with most shops closing before sunset. Social dynamics often see men as the primary shop owners and providers, even in stores selling women's
attire. Despite modern influences and "fake" global brands, the community maintains deep ties to traditional crafts and conservative social norms.

Our guide shared personal joy through his wedding photos, showing pride in his culture and family. There was genuine concern for a group member, who was unwell at the hotel; the group regularly checked on her recovery. The group found humor and connection while navigating rain-slicked streets, crowded markets, and the "no personal space" rule of local travel. 

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, April 25th, Constantine, Algeria.

Friday, April 24th, Constantine, Algeria

Greetings!

During a bus journey to Constantine, our guide shared a deeply personal and historical account of the Algerian Civil War, known as the 'Black Decade.' We learned how the conflict began after the 1991 elections were canceled to prevent an Islamist victory, leading to a decade of extreme violence that claimed half a million lives. Our guide explained the complex reconciliation process, the current policy of non-negotiation with terrorists, and why this painful era is notably absent from official school textbooks.

We were accompanied at all time on the road by police vehicles.  All foreign groups in Algeria must have a police escort across different states due to historical security protocols. The group successfully navigated out of Algiers with minimal traffic because it is Friday (a weekend/holiday). A stop at a gas station was planned before reaching Constantine, offering another opportunity for a bathroom break. Some audio whisper devices are non-functional. Replacements are currently limited as most units are already in use. 

Following independence in 1962, the country was ruled by a single party (FLN/Army).
An economic crisis in the 1980s led to widespread frustration among the youth. In the early 1990s, the political system was opened, leading to the rise of the Islamic Salvation Front (FIS). The Islamic party won the first and second rounds of parliamentary elections.
The army intervened and falsified results to prevent the establishment of an Islamic state. This interference triggered widespread riots and the eventual formation of extremist armed groups.

Extremists moved to the mountains to wage war against the government. Civilians were caught between both sides; supporting one made them a target for the other. An estimated 500,000 people died during this "Black Decade.". Tactics included bombings, public executions, and strict night curfews. Former President Bouteflika proposed the Charter for Peace and National Reconciliation. A national vote was held, and the majority of Algerians voted for forgiveness and a ceasefire.

Those who surrendered underwent investigations and served jail time if involved in major crimes. Young or minor participants were given new identities and financial aid to re-enter society. All former insurgents remain under permanent 24-hour government surveillance. The military is highly experienced in counter-terrorism and is considered a regional model for these operations. During the war, Algeria was isolated; neighbors like Tunisia and Morocco were hesitant to assist due to fears of the conflict spreading. The government avoids public discussion of this era, partly because many current officials or military leaders were involved in controversial decisions during the conflict. 

Our travel group shared frustrations regarding the service at our hotel in Algeria. Despite its architectural beauty and historical significance, you experienced persistent issues like missing towels, non-functional room keys, and restrictive bar policies. The group leader acknowledged these recurring complaints, noting that while the location is iconic, the service often falls short of international standards. After discussing these hospitality challenges, the group prepared for a short break at a gas station before continuing their journey and upcoming discussion.

Staff reportedly refused to charge drinks directly to rooms unless food was also ordered.
There is a suspicion that bartenders avoid room charges to simplify their own workload during busy periods. The location is described as central but isolated from shops and city life, making it ideal for work but difficult for casual outings.

The hotel is recognized for its immense historical significance and architectural beauty, particularly its tiles and spacious rooms. It is noted as being an attractive spot for overseas travelers due to its connections to figures like Eisenhower and the Allied history. Despite the "five-star" rating, the consensus is that the service does not meet international standards. The group leader mentioned a constant struggle to get staff to fulfill guest requests, often requiring three or four reminders.

The group is considering changing hotels for future trips due to the persistent service failures. A brief stop was scheduled at gas station to allow travelers a 10-minute break. The tour leader coordinated the use of "whisper" devices to ensure everyone could participate in an upcoming discussion once they returned to the bus. There was a lighthearted moment of checking in on each other's physical well-being after long travel, specifically asking if everyone's "legs still work."

We listened to an educational tour of the ancient Roman city of Djemila, known as Cuicul, in Algeria. The guide explained the city's unique V-shaped layout, dictated by surrounding mountains and streams. We learned about the transition from military veterans settling in the first century to the city's peak expansion under Emperors Septimius,Severus, and Caracalla. The tour highlighted the House of Bacchus, a massive private residence, the Christian neighborhood with its early basilicas, and the impressive 3,000-seat theater.

The French conducted most of the archaeological excavations in Algeria during the 18th and early 19th centuries. Work at the site of Jmira (Cuicul) stopped in 1954 due to the Algerian War of Independence. The site was documented using a "moquette" (scale model) created by French archaeologists to show the city's structure.

The city was founded in the 1st century AD, primarily for retired Roman military veterans. The location was chosen for its water sources (two bordering streams) and the protection provided by surrounding mountains. Unlike typical square Roman cities, Jmira has a unique V-shape due to the terrain and streams. The city is highly elevated, sitting at 900 meters above sea level. Key early structures include: Thermal baths and a central market.

The Temple of Venus and residential apartments for the wealthy.. The city reached its peak in the 2nd century under Emperor Septimius Severus.Massive expansion occurred in the 3rd century under Emperor Caracalla.Caracalla’s Reforms: He changed citizenship laws, granting it to anyone who lived in the city and built houses,rather than requiring 25 years of military service.

The Cardo Maximus (the main road connecting north to west). A theater with a capacity for 3,000 spectators.The Arch of Caracalla and a new forum. A fabric market and public toilets.

Expanded to include large gymnasiums, cold rooms (Frigidarium), and hot rooms (Caldarium). Water Management: Large cisterns were used for water supply, utilizing gravity to distribute water and manage the sewage system. Residential Life: The "House of Bacchus" is the largest residence found, featuring extensive mosaics and

meeting spaces.

A "Christian Neighborhood" emerged in the 3rd and 4th centuries as residents converted from paganism. The area includes a bishop’s residence, a baptistry, and two basilicas (4th and 5th centuries). The Byzantines occupied the city until the 6th century. The site was eventually abandoned as Arab settlers prefer] Mosaics served as decorative "carpets" for both aristocrats and common households. The stones used were natural (not painted) and sourced from nearby mountains. Common colors include yellow, orange, and white, which have remained vibrant due to the natural properties of the rock.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, April 24th, Constantine, Algeria