Thursday, May 7th, Kairouan, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we drove a short way to the Abou Zamaa al-Balawi mausoleum.  It contains the remains of one of the Prophet's companions, who was killed in battle with the Berbers in 654AD.  It is reported that this companion was carrying a few hairs of the Messenger of God, which was buried with him in the same tomb.   

Our guide detailed the journey of the Prophet’s companions to North Africa and the historical transformation of the Mosque of Kairawan from a military barracks into a sacred space. The discussion delved into the origins of Tunisian mausoleums, the cultural importance of circumcision rituals, and the fascinating, traditional matchmaking customs that once took place during community celebrations at these holy sites. We visit the Mausoleum of Abu Zamaha al-Balawi.  The mausoleum honors one of the Prophet Muhammad's companions, often referred to as his barber due to his close proximity to the Prophet. Kairawan was chosen as a strategic inland location for Muslims to avoid Byzantine naval power during the 7th-century expansion into North Africa. 

The Great Mosque of Kairawan, built in 670 AD, originally served as a military barracks before becoming the oldest mosque in Africa. The site is a place where locals bring offerings, believing these "holy people" can help realize wishes. The practice of celebrating mausoleums was influenced by sub-Saharan trade routes, where tribes built domed rooms for leaders who died during travel. The speaker notes that while these rituals are deeply ingrained in Tunisian culture, some practices (like specific mausoleum worship) were historically used by rulers to exert social control.  Circumcision is a major rite of passage in Tunisia, symbolizing a boy's transition toward manhood and the continuation of the family line. Traditionally, these events are large and expensive, involving the sacrifice of sheep and feeding upwards of 100 guests. While a core part of Muslim identity, the speaker clarifies that the requirement for circumcision is not explicitly written in the Quran but stems from the tradition of following the Prophet's life.  In the past, circumcision ceremonies served as a "secret volunteer way" for young people to meet. Men and women were separated during the celebration, allowing young men to spot potential partners and inform their mothers. Mothers would then "vet" the potential bride in a public bathhouse, observing her cleanliness and manners before suggesting the match to the father. 

Travelers are guided to a fixed-price souvenir shop that accepts credit cards, offering ceramics, leather, spices, and "Makroud" (a Tunisian pastry made of semolina and dates). Olive oil can be purchased in special travel-safe packaging for transport to the USA. The itinerary includes a light grocery lunch.  The group will return to the hotel around 2:00 PM for a lunch break before heading to the souvenir shops. Additionally, we learned about the local water reservoirs which are currently being renovated by the military under direct orders from the Tunisian president due to pollution.  

The Tour is preparing for a family dinner tonight at a large family estate owned by the grandparents. We'll be meeting their sons, Shekhar and Marwan, along with their wives and children.  Guests will visit the grandparents' large family home for a warm dinner experience. The extended family includes sons Sheker and Marwan along with their wives and children. Sheker is the father of two daughters, while Marwan has two sons and a daughter. The family looks forward to hosting the group, potentially splitting guests among different homes for a personal touch. 

Tonight, we were hosted for a traditional dinner, where your host shared deep insights into his family’s heritage. He discussed the traditional process of renewing copper pots with tin and recounted a 1,000-year family history in the same neighborhood. The conversation covered elaborate Tunisian wedding customs, local cuisine like vegetable soup and green tea, and a heartfelt discussion on the value of visiting homes over tourist sites to truly understand a culture and its people.  The family maintains a long-standing tradition of working with copper, specifically focusing on the process of renewing the tin lining on cookware. Every year during Ramadan, families bring their copper pots to be "tinned" to ensure they are safe for cooking. The speaker's father and grandfather were both skilled copper pot makers, with the grandfather, Mohammed, passing away 26 years ago. The family history in this trade and location spans over a millennium, with the speaker claiming their lineage in the area goes back 1,050 years. There is a profound sense of continuity in the family home, where generations have lived and slept in the same rooms. The speaker recalls sleeping in the same bed as their grandfather, a space shared by family members for centuries. In the past, the family lived in a gated street where all neighbors shared the same last name, and the gates were locked for security by the family patriarch. Today, the house is divided into sections to accommodate different family units, such as the speaker’s family on one level and the parents and brother on another.

Wedding celebrations in Kairouan are elaborate, lasting seven days and seven nights, each with unique dresses and rituals. The bride wears various traditional costumes, some weighing as much as 13–14 kilograms, making movement difficult. Rituals include a morning visit to the Hamman, afternoon parties with henna tattoos, and the receiving of gifts and money (dowry). The festivities culminate in the signing of the marriage contract and the wearing of a modern white wedding dress. The host expresses joy and curiosity about hosting American visitors, noting that most tourists in Tunisia are younger Europeans visiting for beaches. The speaker learned English through American media like National Geographic and movies, fostering a deep admiration for the scale and diversity of the United States. There is a humble reflection on why Americans would visit a "small, poor country" like Tunisia when they come from places with "big buildings and big cars." The visitors appreciate the authenticity of the experience, noting that most travel involves ruins or hotels, whereas this provides a "rich" connection to a real community and home. The gathering centers around a shared meal, highlighting the warmth of Tunisian hospitality. Guests and hosts enjoy vegetable soup together, noting the "identifiable vegetables" and the use of traditional salt and pepper. The atmosphere is one of communal joy, transitioning from dinner to drinking tea together downstairs to continue the conversation. A decorative wall hanging of the 99 names of God is noted as a beautiful, mandatory piece of decor in the home.

To see all of the photos taken today, cick on Thursday, May 7th, Kairouan, Tunisia.

Wednesday, May 6th, Kairouan, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we took a long seven-hour ride where our guide shared insights into the local political landscape, mentioning the frequency of changing prime ministers since the revolution. The conversation touched on environmental concerns regarding pollution and waste. The guide then offered a brief visit to a local sheep and goat animal market, emphasizing strict security protocols by asking everyone to leave their belongings and phones behind while he takes photos for the group.  The speaker reflects on the significant political turnover following the revolution, highlighting a period of intense transition. In a span of ten years, the country saw eleven different Prime Ministers, which illustrates the complex journey toward stability.  There is a visible struggle with pollution as people frequently discard plastic bags and paper from their vehicles, impacting the natural beauty of the area. Despite the sadness of environmental neglect, there is a silver lining in the digital awareness surrounding the issue, with approximately 120,000 mentions on websites. 

While exploring a pistachio orchard in Tunisia, your companions visited what is considered the most visited pistachio tree in the country. We navigated the rocky terrain in sandals, discussing the extensive root systems of the trees and the lack of signage for the site. The group considered using AI to compare tree sizes and contemplated whether it was permissible to pick the pistachios, ultimately deciding against it while admiring the young, developing nuts.  Despite its popularity, the speakers noted a lack of official signage, finding humor in the idea of a "pistachios this way" sign. Observation of the trees highlighted their extensive root systems and the varying sizes of the plants across the field. Walking through the orchard involved navigating dusty terrain filled with small rocks and dirt. Both speakers chose to wear sandals, leading to the relatable and painful experience of getting pebbles stuck under their feet. This shared struggle added a lighthearted, empathetic touch to the excursion as they navigated the "bunch of dirt" together. 

We took a guided tour through the ancient Roman archaeological site of Sbeitla, also known as Sufetula. The guide shared historical insights, explaining that the city once housed 90,000 residents, and is unique for having three separate temples for the gods Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. We learned about the site's extensive reconstruction, which has kept it off the UNESCO World Heritage list, and viewed ancient olive oil presses and water cisterns while discussing the area's significance through Islamic and World War II history.  Sbeitla, originally known as Sufeitula, was established in the first century AD. It was historically the largest Roman city in Tunisia, spanning approximately 90 acres.   A significant portion of the city—estimated at 88%—has been rebuilt during excavations starting in 1979. These reconstructions often lack definitive archaeological or historical proof, which has impacted its official recognition.  Hannibal once described the location as the key to controlling all of Africa. The site saw transitions between multiple civilizations, including the Romans, Vandals, and Byzantines. It served as a critical gateway for the Muslim conquest of the region, specifically leading toward Kairouan. The area is known in local dialect as the city of the "Seven Abdullahs," referring to seven Muslim leaders who fought Byzantine resistance here.

The site is unique because the Romans separated the "Trinity" (Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva) into three distinct temples rather than housing them in one. This separation is a rare architectural feature found in only two cities worldwide. A press for extra virgin olive oil was built during the Byzantine era, unusually located right in the middle of a main road. It includes stone structures for grinding olives and specific reservoirs used as units of measurement for buyers. Key landmarks include the Cardo Maximus (a main Roman road), covered cisterns for water reservoirs, and shops built for Roman citizens. Access to the sacred temple area is marked by the Triumphal Arch of Diocletian. Sbeitla played a strategic role during the Second World War. It served as a battlefield determining the presence of opposing powers in the region.

We enjoyed a lively lunch with a group, sharing stories about your approach to philanthropy and your 'no kids' retirement freedom. The conversation drifted into interesting historical anecdotes about New Zealand's 'six o'clock swill' and liquor laws. While waiting for a flight of local dishes including barley soup, lemon desserts, and 'tooth butter,' we discussed everything from marathon running in Portugal to the nuances of local service. The meal concluded with a round of drinks and shared appreciation for the hospitality.   Memories were shared about "tooth butter" in the New Zealand's South Island—putting such a thick layer of butter on bread that teeth marks are visible. Discussions touched on travel experiences, including walking marathons and the hilly terrain encountered on European trails like the Camino de Santiago. The group enjoys a meal together, discussing various foods and flavors:  Trying to identify ingredients in a "cookie crust" or "gelatin" based pie.  Complimenting the soup and discussing whether ketchup should be used for eggs or chicken.  The servers are noted for being attentive and generous with portions, which contributes to a positive, communal atmosphere.

There is a sense of lighthearted confusion regarding the staff at the venue, questioning if they are brothers or a father-son duo. The environment is described as well-maintained or recently remodeled, adding to the comfort of the gathering. The conversation ends on a friendly note as the group orders drinks, including beer and Coca-Cola, while preparing to move on to their hotel.

During the day, we listened to a detailed discussion about various social and political aspects of Tunisia. The conversation touched upon the complexities of sexual services and migration to Gulf countries, as well as the specific requirements and exemptions for Tunisia's obligatory military service for men. We also heard about the country's political history, focusing on the shift from a single-party dominant system under President Ben Ali to the changes brought about by the Tunisian revolution.  All Tunisian men are required to serve one year in the military starting at age 20.  Military service is optional for women beginning at age 20. Homosexual men are not permitted to serve in the army. Individuals who are the only son and the sole financial provider for their family. Married men under the age of 35 who have at least one child. We also heard a discussion of a trend where some women travel to Gulf countries (including Dubai, Qatar, Kuwait, and Bahrain) to provide sexual services in exchange for significant financial compensation.  For 23 years, Tunisia was dominated by a single political entity, the Democratic Constitutional Rally party, under President Ben Ali. The transition from a single-party system to a diverse political environment involving various ideologies across the right and left wings.

We listened to an explanation regarding migration patterns between Tunisia and Italy, specifically focusing on the island of Pantelleria. The discussion covered the legal and illegal routes migrants take, the role of Italian police in transfers to Sicily, and the requirements for residency and citizenship. It also highlighted the shift in Tunisia's role from being a sender of migrants to becoming a receiver of sub-Saharan people since 2021, while noting the socio-economic impacts on local communities.  Pantelleria serves as a primary entry point, located 60 miles from Tunisia. The Italian police (La Squadra) transport migrants from the island to Sicily for processing. Movement within the country is managed via specific permissions and limited mobility guidelines. Migrants can obtain residence cards if they secure employment and pay taxes. Eligibility for passports is established after a five-year period of legal residence and work. Lack of employment is identified as a primary cause of social instability and "troubles.  Illegal entry is often driven by the inability to afford official visa fees and travel costs. While many migrants seek peaceful employment, some have formed communities operating outside the law. Specific issues noted include involvement in drug trafficking in Italy and Southern France.  Traditionally, Tunisia was a sender of illegal immigrants to Southern Europe. Since 2021, the country has transitioned into a receiver of sub-Saharan migrants.

We are focusing on the cultural and religious heart of Kairouan. Our guide explained the plan for tomorrow is to visit the Great Mosque and cross the Medina, highlighting historical figures who have visited recently. We also learned about the intricate craft of local carpet weaving, including the classical African mosque designs and the vibrant Berber styles. There is an opportunity for shopping in the afternoon, where the guide shared his personal tradition of buying wedding rugs here. The tour includes a visit to the closest possible point to the praying area of the mosque followed by a walk through the Medina. The walk through the Medina of Kairouan takes approximately 30 to 35 minutes. The area holds historical significance, having hosted notable figures like Queen Elizabeth II and Hillary Clinton. A free afternoon is planned for tomorrow to allow for shopping and personal exploration. The guide offers to assist with visiting specific shops for those interested in using credit cards or making final purchases.  The guide shares a deep appreciation for the local craftsmanship and the beauty of Kairouan's famous rugs. Designs range from classical patterns representing the first mosque in Africa to vibrant Berber styles. The most refined and "fancy" rugs are a point of local pride and cultural heritage. A personal connection is shared, noting that even locals, including the guide himself, purchase these carpets for significant life events like weddings. This highlights the joy and communal value found in supporting the local women who create these intricate pieces.

We arrived at Hotel La Caspa in Kairouan. During the bus ride, the group touched on the complexities of immigration in Tunisia, noting the irony of arguing against it while being travelers ourselves. Upon arrival, the focus shifted to hotel logistics—finding rooms, checking for hot water, and exploring amenities like the hammam and massage services as we settled in for the evening.  Guests received their room assignments for the second floor, with specific instructions on how to use the elevator and locate their rooms. Mention was made of the beautiful hotel architecture and decor, with travelers specifically admiring the aesthetics of the building and its unique features. Practical checks were encouraged for room amenities, such as ensuring the availability of hot water and checking the functionality of phones.  Information was provided regarding the on-site spa services. Guests were encouraged to visit the wellness center at the end of the corridor to book appointments for the following free afternoon. The atmosphere was one of relaxation and anticipation for the restorative services available after a long day of travel. Minor concerns, such as locating misplaced items like a "whisper" device, were handled with helpfulness and cooperation between the travelers.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, May 6th, Kairouan, Tunisia 

Tuesday, May 5th, Diar Abou, Habibi, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we took a guided tour through the vibrant market of Tozeur, Tunisia. Our guide led us through the vegetable and fish markets, explaining the local distinction between regular tax-paying sellers and the illegal street vendors that emerged after the revolution. We learned about traditional attire, like the black dress worn by local women, and unique Tunisian practices like butchers displaying animal heads to signify fresh meat. The tour concluded at the Medina entrance with some free time for exploring.

The guide outlines a walking tour through Tozeur, starting with a path toward the "black gate" entrance of the market. Plans include a shortcut through the Medina to visit a covered area and an archaeological mausoleum. A 20-minute break is scheduled for participants to wander, withdraw money from nearby ATMs, or visit a cafe for shade. A woman in a black dress with a white stripe is highlighted as wearing the traditional dress of Tozeur. Legal sellers are located inside the market buildings, paying taxes and rent to the municipality.  

The tour passes through a fish market despite being 120 miles from the sea; the guide shares a humorous piece of advice from his father: "where you cannot see the sea, you cannot eat the fish." Fresh tomatoes are available for approximately one dollar per kilogram. Other local produce mentioned includes okra and various fresh vegetables.

The guide actively helps participants navigate obstacles, repeatedly warning them to "mind the step" and avoid cars. Support is offered for financial logistics, including locating ATMs, changing large bills ($50), and negotiating currency exchange at the hotel. The tone is helpful and protective, ensuring everyone stays in the shade and feels comfortable during their free time.

We explored a local market area where your guide pointed out how various goods, from coffee and sugar to diapers and cheese, are smuggled in from Algeria. We navigated busy streets filled with motorbikes and horse-drawn carriages, observing the informal economy in action. The tour transitioned from discussing the logistics of illegal imports and illegal fruit vendors to a more personal moment where you were encouraged to interact with a group of local Tunisian women in the shade. A vast array of products on display are sourced illegally across the border from Algeria. Items include olive oil, soap, sugar, coffee, and cheese.  Non-food items like diapers, shampoo, and tuna are also part of the smuggled inventory. 

Most sellers in this specific area are operating their stalls illegally Despite the illicit nature, these goods represent the primary stock for local street vendors  The environment is bustling and chaotic, requiring constant attention to safety.  The guide warns about motorbikes and carriages passing through narrow spaces. Strategic movement is needed, such as walking close to walls and seeking shade to avoid the heat. There is a visible effort by locals to maintain the area by disposing of trash in specific wall cavities.  The scene captures a joyful and vibrant interaction between visitors and Tunisian locals 

The guide encourages spontaneous conversations with Tunisian ladies to foster a sense of community. There is a genuine warmth in the exchanges, highlighting the friendly spirit of the neighborhood. The atmosphere is one of resilience and daily hustle, finding beauty in the midst of a busy trading hub. 

Your companions enjoyed a detailed discussion about Tunisian food while placing an order, exploring options like Brick, Chorba, and Tunisian salad. The conversation transitioned into nostalgic travel stories, particularly focusing on Southeast Asia. One traveler shared memories of French baguettes in Vietnam, shrimp donuts, and the incredible hospitality in Bangkok, where a chef once shared a secret recipe. The dialogue highlighted a shared passion for diverse culinary traditions and the generous spirit of the people met during your travels. The group discussed the availability of various dishes, noting that grilled meat options are limited to chicken and turkey. While grilled camel is not available, camel is served in other styles, such as with couscous. The menu includes "Chorba," a traditional soup with pasta, and "Fingers of Fatima," which are rolled and fried appetizers similar to those the group made previously. Other bread-based options include "Brick" (a thin pastry) and a larger triangle-shaped version of the same dough. The conversation highlighted a variety of fresh and grilled salads. "Salat Mushuiya" is a grilled salad made with peppers, onions, garlic, and tomatoes. "Tunisian Salad" consists of diced cucumber, tomatoes, and onions mixed with olive oil and salt. Concerns were raised regarding food safety, specifically confirming that raw salads are washed with bottled water. The speakers decided to share several items to sample the local flavors. The order included one "Brick," "Fingers of Fatima," and "Shorba" (tomato-based soup). For main courses, they discussed "Spaghetti Drumade," where meat is cooked in a red tomato sauce and served over the pasta. Beverages ordered included regular Coke and both still and sparkling bottled water, with one bottle being pleasantly frozen.

There was high praise for Thai food, specifically the beauty of the farmers' markets and the quality of fresh mangoes and seafood. A heartwarming memory was shared about a hotel in Bangkok where, after a guest enjoyed a local treat wrapped in bamboo leaves, the staff slipped the recipe under their door. The group reflected on how different cultures express their obsession with food through presentation and generosity. They noted the beauty of food presentation in Malaysia and Thailand. There was a shared sense of joy in discovering local traditions, such as eating food wrapped in leaves or learning family recipes passed down through generations.

The group spent time navigating the logistics of your trip, specifically arranging laundry service and confirming dinner plans for 7:00 PM. The conversation drifted into the experiences sightseeing, where it was noted the beauty of palm tree fences and discussed visiting a palm museum and historical dioramas. We also reflected on local customs, comparing wedding traditions in Algeria and India, specifically the use of henna. Throughout the day, we managed group dynamics and minor frustrations with WhatsApp communication while enjoying the local scenery.  Laundry status Clothes will be ready and available approximately 30 minutes before dinner, around 6:30 PM. Payment for the laundry service is requested in cash. Dinner is confirmed for 7:00 PM. The group has free time to rest or explore until the meal begins.  Discussion regarding a local artisan making items, which added value and meaning to the objects seen. Mention of a "Palm Museum" and botanical gardens located near a path lot. Observation of a building featuring a large bass fiddle or violin-like structure on top.  Reflections on wedding traditions in Algeria, noting they are more traditional with men and women often celebrating separately. Discussion about the use of henna, specifically noting patterns seen on women's feet and the mention of "white henna."

The group enjoyed a "great day" of exploring, including mentions of a zip line and the "Sahara Lounge." Participants discussed physical activity, with one person planning a walk to the museum after resting.  Some minor frustration regarding the use of WhatsApp groups; specifically, the difficulty of messaging individuals rather than the whole group. Acknowledgment that having a guide to document and send out information works very well for these trips.  Lighthearted moments involving a horse "breathing down someone's neck" while trying to make friends with it. A brief taste test comparing Diet Coke to regular Coke and noting the difference in sweeteners.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, May 5th, Diar Abou Habibi, Tunisia 

Monday, May 4th, Diar Abou Habibi - Touzeur, Tunisia

Greetings!

The group arrived at a beautiful home in Douz, which was decorated with Bougainvillea for a lunch hosted by Ahmed and his wife, Huda. The host, Ahmed, was described as warm and open, welcoming any questions about their life, family, and traditions. The atmosphere was joyful and intimate, focusing on the "smooth" and smiling nature of the local hosts. 

The group enjoyed a traditional meal featuring various local flavors and textures. Noted dishes included chicken, squash, carrots, and a thin noodle dish compared to "Rice-A-Roni." The use of spices was discussed, focusing on adding flavor rather than just heat. The conversation reflected a sense of discovery and appreciation for Tunisian hospitality and home cooking.
The experience was part of a cultural immersion, where we discussed local customs like the Sahara Festival and handicraft villages. 

On the bus afterward, the conversation turned personal as we shared stories about past camel rides, career legacies in public health, and retirement transitions. The atmosphere was warm and open, emphasizing the value of connecting with locals and sharing life experiences across different cultures. We also discussed was the Sahara Festival in Douz, which runs from December 24th to 30th and attracts visitors from all over the world. The area features a handicraft village where locals sell handmade items, particularly on weekends. Mention of "The Residence," noted as one of the top ten hotels in Africa. 

Reflections on Camel Riding
Travelers shared mixed feelings about their recent camel rides to an ancient monastery. Some found the experience interesting but physically uncomfortable and "bumpy." Comparisons were made to camel rides in Egypt, noting differences in how the animals were led. One traveler expressed a firm "no camel" policy for future trips to avoid the discomfort.  

Members of the group shared personal stories about their professional lives and the transition into retirement. One participant discussed ensuring a smooth transition in their public health/epidemiology role to "young blood" before retiring. Another shared a touching story about moving to California and the sudden loss of her husband shortly after. There was a shared sense of accomplishment in their careers, ranging from data management and fundraising to working at the World Bank.

You listened to a guide describe the local harvest cycles of date palm trees and the ingenious ways locals repurpose dried leaves for sand barriers and furniture. The journey continues from Douz toward Tozeur for a two-night stay at a treehouse hotel. There is an upcoming stop planned at Africa's largest salt lake, which geographically divides Tunisia, where you'll have the chance to walk across the salt flats before reaching the oasis destination.

Local communities have turned date production into a sustainable source of income and growth. Every part of the palm tree is thoughtfully repurposed to support daily life. Dried leaves are used as barriers to protect cities from encroaching desert sands. Leaves also serve as fuel for ovens and material for crafting furniture, such as traditional beds.
Several in the group experienced a 25-minute camel trek through the dunes and a 35-minute crossing.

The group is transitioning from Douz to Tozeur, where they will spend the next two nights. There is a sense of quiet anticipation following lunch as the travelers move toward their new destination.

A planned stop at Africa’s largest salt lake allowed travelers to walk directly on the salt crust, and included a 20-minute stop for photos and observation. This massive natural landmark is a geographical marvel that effectively splits the map of Tunisia in two.

The upcoming stay at the Abou Habibi hotel offers the joyful experience of living in tree houses. Nestled deep within the oasis, the hotel promises a peaceful and creative connection with the local environment. Our guide outlined the upcoming two-day itinerary in Tozer, Tunisia. The group is staying in unique treehouse accommodations named after the 'Abu Habibi' bird. The rooms were prepared with cooling and room spray for a comfortable arrival. Guests are navigating room features, including the shower, lighting switches, and closet space. 

Key logistics were shared, including room assignments, mosquito precautions, and the process for laundry and breakfast delivery. Tomorrow’s highlights include horse and carriage rides through the oasis, a brick factory visit, and a local market tour. We were also invited to try camel meat, and visit a traditional museum to learn about Tunisian weddings.  

Breakfast is delivered directly to room terraces starting at 7:30 AM. One Nespresso-style coffee capsule per person per day is free; additional capsules are extra. Laundry must be dropped at reception tonight to be returned tomorrow; payments are cash-only (no credit cards). Health and Safety Mosquitoes: High activity near palm trees and the pool. Guests must apply repellent immediately upon arrival and before the oasis visit. Hydration: Temperatures will reach 93°F. Guests are advised to take water bottles from the bus for tomorrow’s activities.  Air conditioning has been pre-activated to cool rooms. To have the room cleaned, leave the key in the door lock. If you take the key with you, staff will not enter. Safes: Available in all rooms for valuables and passports.  

Tonight's Dinner. Located in the restaurant (not poolside due to mosquitoes). Menu: Soup, three types of salad, "purple pizza" (spicy), rice or spaghetti, and grilled brochettes (lamb, beef, chicken). Wine is available. Breakfast Delivered to rooms at 7:30 AM. Includes yogurt, juice, milk, cheese, and bread. Tomorrow's Itinerary (May 5th) 09:00 AM: Departure Transportation: Horse-drawn carriages (4 people per carriage). Morning Activities Oasis of Tozer: Visit includes a demonstration of climbing palm trees without equipment. Brick Factory: Guided tour of traditional mud and clay brick manufacturing. Whisper sets are required. Afternoon activities include Tozer Downtown: 20-minute free time at the Daily Market followed by a walk through the Medina. Museum Visit: A local lady will host a tour of her traditional kitchen and home. Optional Lunch: Local restaurant featuring camel meat (not included in the tour price). Free Time Activities Museum of Traditions: Discussion on traditional Tunisian weddings and jewelry. Museum of Dates: Accessible via taxi or a 4-mile walk.  Travelers are managing their tech needs and personal belongings after a long day. Challenges with the local Wi-Fi were discussed, specifically how to connect to the "DR Hubbi" network. Despite some frustration with "no internet" messages, the group remains in high spirits. Small domestic details, like finding drinking glasses and managing luggage, are being handled with a sense of camaraderie.

The schedule for the following day also promises an immersive look at local agriculture. Departure is set for 9:00 AM using horse-drawn carriages rather than the bus. The group will visit an oasis to learn about irrigation, date harvesting, and artificial pollination. A local guide named Muhammad will provide a first-hand demonstration of oasis management. T

To see all of the photos taken today, Click on Monday, May 4th, Diar Abou Habibi, Tunisia

Sunday, May 3rd, Gilane OAT Camp - Saharan Douz, Tunisia

Greetings!

On Sunday, after re-packing one day’s needs into very small piece of luggage each, we headed off to our Saharan tent camp location.  This involved our big bus driving west across the top of the southern half of Tunisia (the one containing most of the sandy Sahara).  

On the way, we toured a traditional 400-year-old Berber troglodyte home in Tunisia, guided by a local expert. The guide shared the history of the Berber people’s migration to the Atlas Mountains to escape conflict, explaining how they dug homes into sandstone for protection and natural climate control. 

We met Miriam and her family, observing their way of life—from grinding flour with stones to making harissa.  The visit concluded with a shared meal of fresh bread, honey, and olive oil, accompanied by traditional tea. 

The houses are dug into soft sandstone to provide natural protection and insulation against extreme temperatures Berber families originally moved to these mountain areas to escape historical migrations from the south. Homes were built with hidden entrances and camouflage to protect residents from outsiders. 

A traditional wooden door, often cured in salt lakes for a year, serves as the primary security for the household.  The fish symbol is a common protective emblem used by Jewish, Christian, and Muslim communities in the area The "Hand of Fatima" (five fingers) is used to ward off the "evil eye", and represents the five pillars of Islam for some families. 

Combining the fish and hand symbols is believed to multiply the spiritual protection of the home. Traditionally, Berber women in this community only left their homes three times in their entire life: for their wedding preparation, moving to their husband's house, and their funeral. The guest room was strictly managed by the father; once tea was served, it was a polite signal for guests that the visit had concluded. Historical gender roles dictated that women spent the night on the floor or a separate bed after spending time with their husbands.

The kitchen uses large terracotta jars as a natural "fridge" to keep grains, dried beans, and spices cool and fresh. Traditional hospitality includes serving fresh bread made from hand-ground wheat or barley, paired with honey and olive oil. The local mint tea is a significant cultural staple, often cited by visitors as the best in the country due to its unique preparation. 

Miriam chose to stay in the ancestral home to care for her mother, Zohra, who lived to be 86 years old. Because she did not marry or have children before reaching a certain age, she remains the caretaker of the house. Despite her brothers having rights to the property, they honor a family agreement allowing her to live there for the rest of her life. She maintains the household by grinding flour by hand and hosting visitors to share her heritage. 

Soon, we arrived at a small hotel where we disembarked into four 4-wheel drive small powerful SUVs to traverse the windy sand dune moguls another 30 miles into our tent camp. Glamping is what we’d call it back home, because these were not tents.  They were more like canvas-sided, clustered, very comfy tiny houses.  They had great beds and bathrooms, magnificent OBWan Kanobe robes, eye-popping night skies after beautiful wine-toasting sunsets.  

We were treated to a demonstration by the resident  bedouin-raised chef to bread-making on a ground fire, and to roasting the main meal in metal pots in deep hole pits.   No internet, not ambient lights, but camels definitely walking through the camp, and on full display at sunrise. The rest of the world really didn’t matter, as we’d soon be returning to it tomorrow.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Sunday, May 3rd, Saharan Douz, Tunisia

Saturday, May 2nd, Ksar Ouled Debbab, Tunisia

Greetings!

This narrative is being written on Monday afternoon, after we drove across the southern end of Tunisia to the town of Touzeur.  Check out Monday’s post for a description of what we saw that day.

On Saturday, we drove to Chenini, a unique mountain Troglodytic settlement which was built by fleeing Berbers in the late 19th century seeking protection against Gazzia (Arab tribes) from the north.  Utilizing the same cave-dwelling skills their ancestors did in the north to escape lions, they carved into the horizontal sandstone layers below the limestone cliff strata which serves as the floor and ceiling.  On the way up the valley leading to the village, it was also evident that they were quite capable of channeling the scant rainwater into damed streams creating holding ponds for agriculture.  

Reading the OAT Itinerary, this was a dayhike for which the description scared me.   As a result of a fall I took on the pre-trip in Algeria, I’ve been using a borrowed walking stick, and gripping tightly to every stair railing I could find.  My left inside thigh is seriously black & blue, and so are my toes on that foot.  So when I read in the OAT Itinerary that “Today, we will walk for a total of 3 miles over uneven, slippery terrain, steeply-slopped surfaces, and stairs without railings (not suitable for the use of walking sticks).  There willl not be any benches available for resting during this walk.”, I was concerned as it sounded like this was a day I should skip the morning adventure.  

Pat was also not feeling well, and eventually decided to sit on a low wall at the bottom of the canyon.  I took plenty of photos as I gingerly navigated the pathway with my stick, stopping much too frequently and falling behind the group’s pace.  Thus, I bailed out of the walk about halfway up, and went directly to the ending point restaurant at the opposite end of one of the switchback legs.  I got there only a few minutes before the group arrived, proclaiming it got easier from just ahead of where I turned back. Oh well, the settlement was clearly well worth visiting.  

The complete ingenuity and cleverness of a tribe of Berbers which I had previously understood to be only capable of guiding sheep and staying alive, was enlightening. 

We then drove to the current town nearby, which served as the shooting location for the galactic planet town of “Tataoonie" in an episode of  George Lucas’s “Star Wars - the Phantom Menace”.  Most of us were old enough to remember the scenes which were displayed throughout the small strange houses.  After lunch at a local restaurant, we drove back to our hotel in the real Tatauoine.  

To see the photos take today, click on Saturday, May 2nd, Tatauoie, Tunisia.

 

Friday, May 1st, Tataouine, Tunisia

Greetings!

On the bus today, we listened to a detailed explanation regarding the complex reality of smuggling in southern Tunisia. The speaker described how the local economy is fundamentally built on cross-border trade with Libya, historically encouraged by Muammar Gaddafi to bypass international embargoes. We learned that for residents in the southeast, life is often more socially and economically intertwined with Libya than with the Tunisian capital, Tunis, due to geographic proximity and long-standing tribal and marital ties across the borders.  

Smuggling serves as the primary foundation of the economy in Southern Tunisia.  Local livelihoods are heavily dependent on these activities despite national legal frameworks. Cross-border trade provides the region with its core economic structure.  The southern region is located only 42 miles from the Libyan border. Proximity makes the area more logistically and socially connected to Tripoli than to the Tunisian capital. The geographic shape of the region facilitates close ties with neighboring foreign countries. Historical links were strengthened during the era of Colonel Gaddafi. Trade policies once allowed the exchange of fuel using identity cards instead of passports.  Integration has resulted in cross-border marriages and shared tribal identities between Tunisia and Libya.

Our Guide explained the complex reality of fuel smuggling in Tunisia, focusing on how illegal imports from Algeria and Libya affect the local market. The discussion touched on the economic allure of cheaper, smuggled gas compared to legal alternatives and the massive cash transactions involved in these shadow economies. He also examined the challenge of advocating for higher fuel quality standards in a society accustomed to low prices, acknowledging the difficulty of pushing for governmental reform against established smuggling routes.  Illegal traders maintain substantial control over the fuel supply chain and facilitate high-value cash transactions.  Significant price disparities exist between smuggled fuel (as low as 29 cents per gallon) and official government-regulated sources. Large-scale purchases, such as vehicles costing 300,000 TND, are often handled via cash within these informal networks. Fuel costs in specific regions are reported to be notably higher than the rest of the country, complicating economic stability. Government advocacy focuses on implementing higher fuel quality standards to match international expectations. Transitioning the public toward regulated fuel is difficult due to widespread societal preference for low-cost smuggled options. Activists are working to convince the government to formalize the sector and improve fuel quality despite economic resistance. 

The main synagogue of Tataouine sits next to a tight alleyway filled with merchants. Cheap plastic toys, spices, and rugs are available for purchase from local vendors right outside the doors of the abandoned synagogue. The entrance to the temple is located through bright blue doors underneath an arched covering. The utter disrepair of the structure becomes visible once inside the sanctuary. The roof of the building has collapsed, and takes up a large portion of the sanctuary floor . Indeed, the very stone foundations of the complex have crumbled away, leaving only a portion of the synagogues four walls.

However, it is still possible to see much of its original beauty despite its state of decay. The sanctuary is lined with decorative columns in soft, pale blue. These columns are on either end of large archways that would have given the space a grand and airy feel. The walls of the tall ceilings are lined with colorful and intricate geometric designs, set in a background of blue. Indeed, the Jewish community of Tataouine was founded as an offshoot of the Jewish community in Djerba, and as such, the synagogue bears a striking resemblance to the El Ghriba Synagogue in Djerba.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, May 1st, Tataouie, Tunisia.