Wednesday, May 6th, Kairouan, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we took a long seven-hour ride where our guide shared insights into the local political landscape, mentioning the frequency of changing prime ministers since the revolution. The conversation touched on environmental concerns regarding pollution and waste. The guide then offered a brief visit to a local sheep and goat animal market, emphasizing strict security protocols by asking everyone to leave their belongings and phones behind while he takes photos for the group.  The speaker reflects on the significant political turnover following the revolution, highlighting a period of intense transition. In a span of ten years, the country saw eleven different Prime Ministers, which illustrates the complex journey toward stability.  There is a visible struggle with pollution as people frequently discard plastic bags and paper from their vehicles, impacting the natural beauty of the area. Despite the sadness of environmental neglect, there is a silver lining in the digital awareness surrounding the issue, with approximately 120,000 mentions on websites. 

While exploring a pistachio orchard in Tunisia, your companions visited what is considered the most visited pistachio tree in the country. We navigated the rocky terrain in sandals, discussing the extensive root systems of the trees and the lack of signage for the site. The group considered using AI to compare tree sizes and contemplated whether it was permissible to pick the pistachios, ultimately deciding against it while admiring the young, developing nuts.  Despite its popularity, the speakers noted a lack of official signage, finding humor in the idea of a "pistachios this way" sign. Observation of the trees highlighted their extensive root systems and the varying sizes of the plants across the field. Walking through the orchard involved navigating dusty terrain filled with small rocks and dirt. Both speakers chose to wear sandals, leading to the relatable and painful experience of getting pebbles stuck under their feet. This shared struggle added a lighthearted, empathetic touch to the excursion as they navigated the "bunch of dirt" together. 

We took a guided tour through the ancient Roman archaeological site of Sbeitla, also known as Sufetula. The guide shared historical insights, explaining that the city once housed 90,000 residents, and is unique for having three separate temples for the gods Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. We learned about the site's extensive reconstruction, which has kept it off the UNESCO World Heritage list, and viewed ancient olive oil presses and water cisterns while discussing the area's significance through Islamic and World War II history.  Sbeitla, originally known as Sufeitula, was established in the first century AD. It was historically the largest Roman city in Tunisia, spanning approximately 90 acres.   A significant portion of the city—estimated at 88%—has been rebuilt during excavations starting in 1979. These reconstructions often lack definitive archaeological or historical proof, which has impacted its official recognition.  Hannibal once described the location as the key to controlling all of Africa. The site saw transitions between multiple civilizations, including the Romans, Vandals, and Byzantines. It served as a critical gateway for the Muslim conquest of the region, specifically leading toward Kairouan. The area is known in local dialect as the city of the "Seven Abdullahs," referring to seven Muslim leaders who fought Byzantine resistance here.

The site is unique because the Romans separated the "Trinity" (Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva) into three distinct temples rather than housing them in one. This separation is a rare architectural feature found in only two cities worldwide. A press for extra virgin olive oil was built during the Byzantine era, unusually located right in the middle of a main road. It includes stone structures for grinding olives and specific reservoirs used as units of measurement for buyers. Key landmarks include the Cardo Maximus (a main Roman road), covered cisterns for water reservoirs, and shops built for Roman citizens. Access to the sacred temple area is marked by the Triumphal Arch of Diocletian. Sbeitla played a strategic role during the Second World War. It served as a battlefield determining the presence of opposing powers in the region.

We enjoyed a lively lunch with a group, sharing stories about your approach to philanthropy and your 'no kids' retirement freedom. The conversation drifted into interesting historical anecdotes about New Zealand's 'six o'clock swill' and liquor laws. While waiting for a flight of local dishes including barley soup, lemon desserts, and 'tooth butter,' we discussed everything from marathon running in Portugal to the nuances of local service. The meal concluded with a round of drinks and shared appreciation for the hospitality.   Memories were shared about "tooth butter" in the New Zealand's South Island—putting such a thick layer of butter on bread that teeth marks are visible. Discussions touched on travel experiences, including walking marathons and the hilly terrain encountered on European trails like the Camino de Santiago. The group enjoys a meal together, discussing various foods and flavors:  Trying to identify ingredients in a "cookie crust" or "gelatin" based pie.  Complimenting the soup and discussing whether ketchup should be used for eggs or chicken.  The servers are noted for being attentive and generous with portions, which contributes to a positive, communal atmosphere.

There is a sense of lighthearted confusion regarding the staff at the venue, questioning if they are brothers or a father-son duo. The environment is described as well-maintained or recently remodeled, adding to the comfort of the gathering. The conversation ends on a friendly note as the group orders drinks, including beer and Coca-Cola, while preparing to move on to their hotel.

During the day, we listened to a detailed discussion about various social and political aspects of Tunisia. The conversation touched upon the complexities of sexual services and migration to Gulf countries, as well as the specific requirements and exemptions for Tunisia's obligatory military service for men. We also heard about the country's political history, focusing on the shift from a single-party dominant system under President Ben Ali to the changes brought about by the Tunisian revolution.  All Tunisian men are required to serve one year in the military starting at age 20.  Military service is optional for women beginning at age 20. Homosexual men are not permitted to serve in the army. Individuals who are the only son and the sole financial provider for their family. Married men under the age of 35 who have at least one child. We also heard a discussion of a trend where some women travel to Gulf countries (including Dubai, Qatar, Kuwait, and Bahrain) to provide sexual services in exchange for significant financial compensation.  For 23 years, Tunisia was dominated by a single political entity, the Democratic Constitutional Rally party, under President Ben Ali. The transition from a single-party system to a diverse political environment involving various ideologies across the right and left wings.

We listened to an explanation regarding migration patterns between Tunisia and Italy, specifically focusing on the island of Pantelleria. The discussion covered the legal and illegal routes migrants take, the role of Italian police in transfers to Sicily, and the requirements for residency and citizenship. It also highlighted the shift in Tunisia's role from being a sender of migrants to becoming a receiver of sub-Saharan people since 2021, while noting the socio-economic impacts on local communities.  Pantelleria serves as a primary entry point, located 60 miles from Tunisia. The Italian police (La Squadra) transport migrants from the island to Sicily for processing. Movement within the country is managed via specific permissions and limited mobility guidelines. Migrants can obtain residence cards if they secure employment and pay taxes. Eligibility for passports is established after a five-year period of legal residence and work. Lack of employment is identified as a primary cause of social instability and "troubles.  Illegal entry is often driven by the inability to afford official visa fees and travel costs. While many migrants seek peaceful employment, some have formed communities operating outside the law. Specific issues noted include involvement in drug trafficking in Italy and Southern France.  Traditionally, Tunisia was a sender of illegal immigrants to Southern Europe. Since 2021, the country has transitioned into a receiver of sub-Saharan migrants.

We are focusing on the cultural and religious heart of Kairouan. Our guide explained the plan for tomorrow is to visit the Great Mosque and cross the Medina, highlighting historical figures who have visited recently. We also learned about the intricate craft of local carpet weaving, including the classical African mosque designs and the vibrant Berber styles. There is an opportunity for shopping in the afternoon, where the guide shared his personal tradition of buying wedding rugs here. The tour includes a visit to the closest possible point to the praying area of the mosque followed by a walk through the Medina. The walk through the Medina of Kairouan takes approximately 30 to 35 minutes. The area holds historical significance, having hosted notable figures like Queen Elizabeth II and Hillary Clinton. A free afternoon is planned for tomorrow to allow for shopping and personal exploration. The guide offers to assist with visiting specific shops for those interested in using credit cards or making final purchases.  The guide shares a deep appreciation for the local craftsmanship and the beauty of Kairouan's famous rugs. Designs range from classical patterns representing the first mosque in Africa to vibrant Berber styles. The most refined and "fancy" rugs are a point of local pride and cultural heritage. A personal connection is shared, noting that even locals, including the guide himself, purchase these carpets for significant life events like weddings. This highlights the joy and communal value found in supporting the local women who create these intricate pieces.

We arrived at Hotel La Caspa in Kairouan. During the bus ride, the group touched on the complexities of immigration in Tunisia, noting the irony of arguing against it while being travelers ourselves. Upon arrival, the focus shifted to hotel logistics—finding rooms, checking for hot water, and exploring amenities like the hammam and massage services as we settled in for the evening.  Guests received their room assignments for the second floor, with specific instructions on how to use the elevator and locate their rooms. Mention was made of the beautiful hotel architecture and decor, with travelers specifically admiring the aesthetics of the building and its unique features. Practical checks were encouraged for room amenities, such as ensuring the availability of hot water and checking the functionality of phones.  Information was provided regarding the on-site spa services. Guests were encouraged to visit the wellness center at the end of the corridor to book appointments for the following free afternoon. The atmosphere was one of relaxation and anticipation for the restorative services available after a long day of travel. Minor concerns, such as locating misplaced items like a "whisper" device, were handled with helpfulness and cooperation between the travelers.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, May 6th, Kairouan, Tunisia 

Tuesday, May 5th, Diar Abou, Habibi, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we took a guided tour through the vibrant market of Tozeur, Tunisia. Our guide led us through the vegetable and fish markets, explaining the local distinction between regular tax-paying sellers and the illegal street vendors that emerged after the revolution. We learned about traditional attire, like the black dress worn by local women, and unique Tunisian practices like butchers displaying animal heads to signify fresh meat. The tour concluded at the Medina entrance with some free time for exploring.

The guide outlines a walking tour through Tozeur, starting with a path toward the "black gate" entrance of the market. Plans include a shortcut through the Medina to visit a covered area and an archaeological mausoleum. A 20-minute break is scheduled for participants to wander, withdraw money from nearby ATMs, or visit a cafe for shade. A woman in a black dress with a white stripe is highlighted as wearing the traditional dress of Tozeur. Legal sellers are located inside the market buildings, paying taxes and rent to the municipality.  

The tour passes through a fish market despite being 120 miles from the sea; the guide shares a humorous piece of advice from his father: "where you cannot see the sea, you cannot eat the fish." Fresh tomatoes are available for approximately one dollar per kilogram. Other local produce mentioned includes okra and various fresh vegetables.

The guide actively helps participants navigate obstacles, repeatedly warning them to "mind the step" and avoid cars. Support is offered for financial logistics, including locating ATMs, changing large bills ($50), and negotiating currency exchange at the hotel. The tone is helpful and protective, ensuring everyone stays in the shade and feels comfortable during their free time.

We explored a local market area where your guide pointed out how various goods, from coffee and sugar to diapers and cheese, are smuggled in from Algeria. We navigated busy streets filled with motorbikes and horse-drawn carriages, observing the informal economy in action. The tour transitioned from discussing the logistics of illegal imports and illegal fruit vendors to a more personal moment where you were encouraged to interact with a group of local Tunisian women in the shade. A vast array of products on display are sourced illegally across the border from Algeria. Items include olive oil, soap, sugar, coffee, and cheese.  Non-food items like diapers, shampoo, and tuna are also part of the smuggled inventory. 

Most sellers in this specific area are operating their stalls illegally Despite the illicit nature, these goods represent the primary stock for local street vendors  The environment is bustling and chaotic, requiring constant attention to safety.  The guide warns about motorbikes and carriages passing through narrow spaces. Strategic movement is needed, such as walking close to walls and seeking shade to avoid the heat. There is a visible effort by locals to maintain the area by disposing of trash in specific wall cavities.  The scene captures a joyful and vibrant interaction between visitors and Tunisian locals 

The guide encourages spontaneous conversations with Tunisian ladies to foster a sense of community. There is a genuine warmth in the exchanges, highlighting the friendly spirit of the neighborhood. The atmosphere is one of resilience and daily hustle, finding beauty in the midst of a busy trading hub. 

Your companions enjoyed a detailed discussion about Tunisian food while placing an order, exploring options like Brick, Chorba, and Tunisian salad. The conversation transitioned into nostalgic travel stories, particularly focusing on Southeast Asia. One traveler shared memories of French baguettes in Vietnam, shrimp donuts, and the incredible hospitality in Bangkok, where a chef once shared a secret recipe. The dialogue highlighted a shared passion for diverse culinary traditions and the generous spirit of the people met during your travels. The group discussed the availability of various dishes, noting that grilled meat options are limited to chicken and turkey. While grilled camel is not available, camel is served in other styles, such as with couscous. The menu includes "Chorba," a traditional soup with pasta, and "Fingers of Fatima," which are rolled and fried appetizers similar to those the group made previously. Other bread-based options include "Brick" (a thin pastry) and a larger triangle-shaped version of the same dough. The conversation highlighted a variety of fresh and grilled salads. "Salat Mushuiya" is a grilled salad made with peppers, onions, garlic, and tomatoes. "Tunisian Salad" consists of diced cucumber, tomatoes, and onions mixed with olive oil and salt. Concerns were raised regarding food safety, specifically confirming that raw salads are washed with bottled water. The speakers decided to share several items to sample the local flavors. The order included one "Brick," "Fingers of Fatima," and "Shorba" (tomato-based soup). For main courses, they discussed "Spaghetti Drumade," where meat is cooked in a red tomato sauce and served over the pasta. Beverages ordered included regular Coke and both still and sparkling bottled water, with one bottle being pleasantly frozen.

There was high praise for Thai food, specifically the beauty of the farmers' markets and the quality of fresh mangoes and seafood. A heartwarming memory was shared about a hotel in Bangkok where, after a guest enjoyed a local treat wrapped in bamboo leaves, the staff slipped the recipe under their door. The group reflected on how different cultures express their obsession with food through presentation and generosity. They noted the beauty of food presentation in Malaysia and Thailand. There was a shared sense of joy in discovering local traditions, such as eating food wrapped in leaves or learning family recipes passed down through generations.

The group spent time navigating the logistics of your trip, specifically arranging laundry service and confirming dinner plans for 7:00 PM. The conversation drifted into the experiences sightseeing, where it was noted the beauty of palm tree fences and discussed visiting a palm museum and historical dioramas. We also reflected on local customs, comparing wedding traditions in Algeria and India, specifically the use of henna. Throughout the day, we managed group dynamics and minor frustrations with WhatsApp communication while enjoying the local scenery.  Laundry status Clothes will be ready and available approximately 30 minutes before dinner, around 6:30 PM. Payment for the laundry service is requested in cash. Dinner is confirmed for 7:00 PM. The group has free time to rest or explore until the meal begins.  Discussion regarding a local artisan making items, which added value and meaning to the objects seen. Mention of a "Palm Museum" and botanical gardens located near a path lot. Observation of a building featuring a large bass fiddle or violin-like structure on top.  Reflections on wedding traditions in Algeria, noting they are more traditional with men and women often celebrating separately. Discussion about the use of henna, specifically noting patterns seen on women's feet and the mention of "white henna."

The group enjoyed a "great day" of exploring, including mentions of a zip line and the "Sahara Lounge." Participants discussed physical activity, with one person planning a walk to the museum after resting.  Some minor frustration regarding the use of WhatsApp groups; specifically, the difficulty of messaging individuals rather than the whole group. Acknowledgment that having a guide to document and send out information works very well for these trips.  Lighthearted moments involving a horse "breathing down someone's neck" while trying to make friends with it. A brief taste test comparing Diet Coke to regular Coke and noting the difference in sweeteners.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, May 5th, Diar Abou Habibi, Tunisia 

Monday, May 4th, Diar Abou Habibi - Touzeur, Tunisia

Greetings!

The group arrived at a beautiful home in Douz, which was decorated with Bougainvillea for a lunch hosted by Ahmed and his wife, Huda. The host, Ahmed, was described as warm and open, welcoming any questions about their life, family, and traditions. The atmosphere was joyful and intimate, focusing on the "smooth" and smiling nature of the local hosts. 

The group enjoyed a traditional meal featuring various local flavors and textures. Noted dishes included chicken, squash, carrots, and a thin noodle dish compared to "Rice-A-Roni." The use of spices was discussed, focusing on adding flavor rather than just heat. The conversation reflected a sense of discovery and appreciation for Tunisian hospitality and home cooking.
The experience was part of a cultural immersion, where we discussed local customs like the Sahara Festival and handicraft villages. 

On the bus afterward, the conversation turned personal as we shared stories about past camel rides, career legacies in public health, and retirement transitions. The atmosphere was warm and open, emphasizing the value of connecting with locals and sharing life experiences across different cultures. We also discussed was the Sahara Festival in Douz, which runs from December 24th to 30th and attracts visitors from all over the world. The area features a handicraft village where locals sell handmade items, particularly on weekends. Mention of "The Residence," noted as one of the top ten hotels in Africa. 

Reflections on Camel Riding
Travelers shared mixed feelings about their recent camel rides to an ancient monastery. Some found the experience interesting but physically uncomfortable and "bumpy." Comparisons were made to camel rides in Egypt, noting differences in how the animals were led. One traveler expressed a firm "no camel" policy for future trips to avoid the discomfort.  

Members of the group shared personal stories about their professional lives and the transition into retirement. One participant discussed ensuring a smooth transition in their public health/epidemiology role to "young blood" before retiring. Another shared a touching story about moving to California and the sudden loss of her husband shortly after. There was a shared sense of accomplishment in their careers, ranging from data management and fundraising to working at the World Bank.

You listened to a guide describe the local harvest cycles of date palm trees and the ingenious ways locals repurpose dried leaves for sand barriers and furniture. The journey continues from Douz toward Tozeur for a two-night stay at a treehouse hotel. There is an upcoming stop planned at Africa's largest salt lake, which geographically divides Tunisia, where you'll have the chance to walk across the salt flats before reaching the oasis destination.

Local communities have turned date production into a sustainable source of income and growth. Every part of the palm tree is thoughtfully repurposed to support daily life. Dried leaves are used as barriers to protect cities from encroaching desert sands. Leaves also serve as fuel for ovens and material for crafting furniture, such as traditional beds.
Several in the group experienced a 25-minute camel trek through the dunes and a 35-minute crossing.

The group is transitioning from Douz to Tozeur, where they will spend the next two nights. There is a sense of quiet anticipation following lunch as the travelers move toward their new destination.

A planned stop at Africa’s largest salt lake allowed travelers to walk directly on the salt crust, and included a 20-minute stop for photos and observation. This massive natural landmark is a geographical marvel that effectively splits the map of Tunisia in two.

The upcoming stay at the Abou Habibi hotel offers the joyful experience of living in tree houses. Nestled deep within the oasis, the hotel promises a peaceful and creative connection with the local environment. Our guide outlined the upcoming two-day itinerary in Tozer, Tunisia. The group is staying in unique treehouse accommodations named after the 'Abu Habibi' bird. The rooms were prepared with cooling and room spray for a comfortable arrival. Guests are navigating room features, including the shower, lighting switches, and closet space. 

Key logistics were shared, including room assignments, mosquito precautions, and the process for laundry and breakfast delivery. Tomorrow’s highlights include horse and carriage rides through the oasis, a brick factory visit, and a local market tour. We were also invited to try camel meat, and visit a traditional museum to learn about Tunisian weddings.  

Breakfast is delivered directly to room terraces starting at 7:30 AM. One Nespresso-style coffee capsule per person per day is free; additional capsules are extra. Laundry must be dropped at reception tonight to be returned tomorrow; payments are cash-only (no credit cards). Health and Safety Mosquitoes: High activity near palm trees and the pool. Guests must apply repellent immediately upon arrival and before the oasis visit. Hydration: Temperatures will reach 93°F. Guests are advised to take water bottles from the bus for tomorrow’s activities.  Air conditioning has been pre-activated to cool rooms. To have the room cleaned, leave the key in the door lock. If you take the key with you, staff will not enter. Safes: Available in all rooms for valuables and passports.  

Tonight's Dinner. Located in the restaurant (not poolside due to mosquitoes). Menu: Soup, three types of salad, "purple pizza" (spicy), rice or spaghetti, and grilled brochettes (lamb, beef, chicken). Wine is available. Breakfast Delivered to rooms at 7:30 AM. Includes yogurt, juice, milk, cheese, and bread. Tomorrow's Itinerary (May 5th) 09:00 AM: Departure Transportation: Horse-drawn carriages (4 people per carriage). Morning Activities Oasis of Tozer: Visit includes a demonstration of climbing palm trees without equipment. Brick Factory: Guided tour of traditional mud and clay brick manufacturing. Whisper sets are required. Afternoon activities include Tozer Downtown: 20-minute free time at the Daily Market followed by a walk through the Medina. Museum Visit: A local lady will host a tour of her traditional kitchen and home. Optional Lunch: Local restaurant featuring camel meat (not included in the tour price). Free Time Activities Museum of Traditions: Discussion on traditional Tunisian weddings and jewelry. Museum of Dates: Accessible via taxi or a 4-mile walk.  Travelers are managing their tech needs and personal belongings after a long day. Challenges with the local Wi-Fi were discussed, specifically how to connect to the "DR Hubbi" network. Despite some frustration with "no internet" messages, the group remains in high spirits. Small domestic details, like finding drinking glasses and managing luggage, are being handled with a sense of camaraderie.

The schedule for the following day also promises an immersive look at local agriculture. Departure is set for 9:00 AM using horse-drawn carriages rather than the bus. The group will visit an oasis to learn about irrigation, date harvesting, and artificial pollination. A local guide named Muhammad will provide a first-hand demonstration of oasis management. T

To see all of the photos taken today, Click on Monday, May 4th, Diar Abou Habibi, Tunisia

Sunday, May 3rd, Gilane OAT Camp - Saharan Douz, Tunisia

Greetings!

On Sunday, after re-packing one day’s needs into very small piece of luggage each, we headed off to our Saharan tent camp location.  This involved our big bus driving west across the top of the southern half of Tunisia (the one containing most of the sandy Sahara).  

On the way, we toured a traditional 400-year-old Berber troglodyte home in Tunisia, guided by a local expert. The guide shared the history of the Berber people’s migration to the Atlas Mountains to escape conflict, explaining how they dug homes into sandstone for protection and natural climate control. 

We met Miriam and her family, observing their way of life—from grinding flour with stones to making harissa.  The visit concluded with a shared meal of fresh bread, honey, and olive oil, accompanied by traditional tea. 

The houses are dug into soft sandstone to provide natural protection and insulation against extreme temperatures Berber families originally moved to these mountain areas to escape historical migrations from the south. Homes were built with hidden entrances and camouflage to protect residents from outsiders. 

A traditional wooden door, often cured in salt lakes for a year, serves as the primary security for the household.  The fish symbol is a common protective emblem used by Jewish, Christian, and Muslim communities in the area The "Hand of Fatima" (five fingers) is used to ward off the "evil eye", and represents the five pillars of Islam for some families. 

Combining the fish and hand symbols is believed to multiply the spiritual protection of the home. Traditionally, Berber women in this community only left their homes three times in their entire life: for their wedding preparation, moving to their husband's house, and their funeral. The guest room was strictly managed by the father; once tea was served, it was a polite signal for guests that the visit had concluded. Historical gender roles dictated that women spent the night on the floor or a separate bed after spending time with their husbands.

The kitchen uses large terracotta jars as a natural "fridge" to keep grains, dried beans, and spices cool and fresh. Traditional hospitality includes serving fresh bread made from hand-ground wheat or barley, paired with honey and olive oil. The local mint tea is a significant cultural staple, often cited by visitors as the best in the country due to its unique preparation. 

Miriam chose to stay in the ancestral home to care for her mother, Zohra, who lived to be 86 years old. Because she did not marry or have children before reaching a certain age, she remains the caretaker of the house. Despite her brothers having rights to the property, they honor a family agreement allowing her to live there for the rest of her life. She maintains the household by grinding flour by hand and hosting visitors to share her heritage. 

Soon, we arrived at a small hotel where we disembarked into four 4-wheel drive small powerful SUVs to traverse the windy sand dune moguls another 30 miles into our tent camp. Glamping is what we’d call it back home, because these were not tents.  They were more like canvas-sided, clustered, very comfy tiny houses.  They had great beds and bathrooms, magnificent OBWan Kanobe robes, eye-popping night skies after beautiful wine-toasting sunsets.  

We were treated to a demonstration by the resident  bedouin-raised chef to bread-making on a ground fire, and to roasting the main meal in metal pots in deep hole pits.   No internet, not ambient lights, but camels definitely walking through the camp, and on full display at sunrise. The rest of the world really didn’t matter, as we’d soon be returning to it tomorrow.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Sunday, May 3rd, Saharan Douz, Tunisia

Saturday, May 2nd, Ksar Ouled Debbab, Tunisia

Greetings!

This narrative is being written on Monday afternoon, after we drove across the southern end of Tunisia to the town of Touzeur.  Check out Monday’s post for a description of what we saw that day.

On Saturday, we drove to Chenini, a unique mountain Troglodytic settlement which was built by fleeing Berbers in the late 19th century seeking protection against Gazzia (Arab tribes) from the north.  Utilizing the same cave-dwelling skills their ancestors did in the north to escape lions, they carved into the horizontal sandstone layers below the limestone cliff strata which serves as the floor and ceiling.  On the way up the valley leading to the village, it was also evident that they were quite capable of channeling the scant rainwater into damed streams creating holding ponds for agriculture.  

Reading the OAT Itinerary, this was a dayhike for which the description scared me.   As a result of a fall I took on the pre-trip in Algeria, I’ve been using a borrowed walking stick, and gripping tightly to every stair railing I could find.  My left inside thigh is seriously black & blue, and so are my toes on that foot.  So when I read in the OAT Itinerary that “Today, we will walk for a total of 3 miles over uneven, slippery terrain, steeply-slopped surfaces, and stairs without railings (not suitable for the use of walking sticks).  There willl not be any benches available for resting during this walk.”, I was concerned as it sounded like this was a day I should skip the morning adventure.  

Pat was also not feeling well, and eventually decided to sit on a low wall at the bottom of the canyon.  I took plenty of photos as I gingerly navigated the pathway with my stick, stopping much too frequently and falling behind the group’s pace.  Thus, I bailed out of the walk about halfway up, and went directly to the ending point restaurant at the opposite end of one of the switchback legs.  I got there only a few minutes before the group arrived, proclaiming it got easier from just ahead of where I turned back. Oh well, the settlement was clearly well worth visiting.  

The complete ingenuity and cleverness of a tribe of Berbers which I had previously understood to be only capable of guiding sheep and staying alive, was enlightening. 

We then drove to the current town nearby, which served as the shooting location for the galactic planet town of “Tataoonie" in an episode of  George Lucas’s “Star Wars - the Phantom Menace”.  Most of us were old enough to remember the scenes which were displayed throughout the small strange houses.  After lunch at a local restaurant, we drove back to our hotel in the real Tatauoine.  

To see the photos take today, click on Saturday, May 2nd, Tatauoie, Tunisia.

 

Friday, May 1st, Tataouine, Tunisia

Greetings!

On the bus today, we listened to a detailed explanation regarding the complex reality of smuggling in southern Tunisia. The speaker described how the local economy is fundamentally built on cross-border trade with Libya, historically encouraged by Muammar Gaddafi to bypass international embargoes. We learned that for residents in the southeast, life is often more socially and economically intertwined with Libya than with the Tunisian capital, Tunis, due to geographic proximity and long-standing tribal and marital ties across the borders.  

Smuggling serves as the primary foundation of the economy in Southern Tunisia.  Local livelihoods are heavily dependent on these activities despite national legal frameworks. Cross-border trade provides the region with its core economic structure.  The southern region is located only 42 miles from the Libyan border. Proximity makes the area more logistically and socially connected to Tripoli than to the Tunisian capital. The geographic shape of the region facilitates close ties with neighboring foreign countries. Historical links were strengthened during the era of Colonel Gaddafi. Trade policies once allowed the exchange of fuel using identity cards instead of passports.  Integration has resulted in cross-border marriages and shared tribal identities between Tunisia and Libya.

Our Guide explained the complex reality of fuel smuggling in Tunisia, focusing on how illegal imports from Algeria and Libya affect the local market. The discussion touched on the economic allure of cheaper, smuggled gas compared to legal alternatives and the massive cash transactions involved in these shadow economies. He also examined the challenge of advocating for higher fuel quality standards in a society accustomed to low prices, acknowledging the difficulty of pushing for governmental reform against established smuggling routes.  Illegal traders maintain substantial control over the fuel supply chain and facilitate high-value cash transactions.  Significant price disparities exist between smuggled fuel (as low as 29 cents per gallon) and official government-regulated sources. Large-scale purchases, such as vehicles costing 300,000 TND, are often handled via cash within these informal networks. Fuel costs in specific regions are reported to be notably higher than the rest of the country, complicating economic stability. Government advocacy focuses on implementing higher fuel quality standards to match international expectations. Transitioning the public toward regulated fuel is difficult due to widespread societal preference for low-cost smuggled options. Activists are working to convince the government to formalize the sector and improve fuel quality despite economic resistance. 

The main synagogue of Tataouine sits next to a tight alleyway filled with merchants. Cheap plastic toys, spices, and rugs are available for purchase from local vendors right outside the doors of the abandoned synagogue. The entrance to the temple is located through bright blue doors underneath an arched covering. The utter disrepair of the structure becomes visible once inside the sanctuary. The roof of the building has collapsed, and takes up a large portion of the sanctuary floor . Indeed, the very stone foundations of the complex have crumbled away, leaving only a portion of the synagogues four walls.

However, it is still possible to see much of its original beauty despite its state of decay. The sanctuary is lined with decorative columns in soft, pale blue. These columns are on either end of large archways that would have given the space a grand and airy feel. The walls of the tall ceilings are lined with colorful and intricate geometric designs, set in a background of blue. Indeed, the Jewish community of Tataouine was founded as an offshoot of the Jewish community in Djerba, and as such, the synagogue bears a striking resemblance to the El Ghriba Synagogue in Djerba.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, May 1st, Tataouie, Tunisia.

Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

We listened to an in-depth presentation on Tunisia's history as you traveled from Tunis. The guide detailed the destruction and rebuilding of Carthage by the Romans, the subsequent Vandal and Byzantine occupations, and the arrival of Islam in 670 AD.  A key distinction was made between a 'Muslim country' and an 'Islamic country' based on legal structures. The discussion concluded with insights into Phoenician maritime engineering in Carthage and how Tunisia aligns its weekend with Europe for economic reasons.

Roman Carthage and the Reconstruction

The Punics were a mixture of Berbers and Phoenicians who inhabited the region. Carthage remained a "ghost city" for a century following its destruction in 146 BC.  Julius Caesar ordered the rebuilding of Carthage in 46 BC as a smaller copy of Rome.  Buildings were constructed with the same decorations but at half the size.  This was intended as a message of humiliation to non-Romans.  Carthage served as the "Granary of Rome," feeding the empire while paying higher taxes than Romans in Italy.

Foreign Occupations and the Path to Independence

To gain independence from Rome, Carthaginians hired the Vandals as mercenaries. The Vandals subsequently occupied the area for 90 years, destroying cities and imposing heavy taxes. The Byzantines from Istanbul later liberated the area from the Vandals and ruled for two centuries. Subsequent waves of occupation included the Spanish, the Ottomans (for four centuries), and the French. The French protectorate lasted from 1881 to 1956. Post-independence, Tunisia shifted from a kingdom with 17 kings to a republic led by President Bourguiba.

Distinguishing Between Muslim and Islamic Countries

Tunisia is defined as a Muslim country rather than an Islamic country. In a Muslim country, the law and constitution are not derived directly from the Quran. An Islamic country uses laws based on human interpretations of the holy book. The lecturer noted that linguistic nuances in Arabic can drastically change the meaning of words. Historical interpretations by Sultans or Caliphs, such as the allowance of four wives, were often created to suit personal interests.

Punic Maritime Engineering and Heritage

Evidence links the Phoenicians of Carthage to Lebanon through artifacts, gods like Baalhamun, and stone inscriptions. The Phoenicians were master boat builders who created highly sophisticated ports.  A rectangular commercial harbor was dug 18 meters deep to hold 200 boats. A unique circular military harbor, the only one of its kind still existing, could hold 22 ships with three layers of rowers.

Modern Tunisian Economy and Schedule

Friday is the religious holy day for Muslims, but it is not the start of the weekend in Tunisia. The weekend is set as Saturday and Sunday to align with European markets. This choice facilitates trade, as most exports and imports involve European partners.  Maintaining a different weekend would leave only three days for active international business.

Arriving a the famous "Day in the Life" portion of our trip, we listened to the story of Jihad, a former mechanical engineer who quit his corporate job in 2012 to start a feeding farm in La Marsa, Tunisia. Inspired by the 2011 Revolution when neighbors had no food reserves, he dedicated himself to preserving Berber and Andalusian culinary heritage. Jihad shared the challenges of moving from the city to a barren olive grove, the struggle of starting from zero without a car, and his mission to teach others about sustainable farming and food preservation.

Cultural Heritage and Culinary Fusion

The speaker's heritage is a blend of Andalusian and Berber cultures, reflecting the demographic history of the region. This mix of cultures created a unique "Tunisian table" where ancestral know-how is combined to create traditional cuisine. The speaker emphasizes that this culinary heritage belongs to everyone in the region and needs to be preserved for future generations.

The Turning Point: 2011 Revolution

During the 2011 Tunisian Revolution, the speaker realized the vulnerability of food security when shops and restaurants closed. While neighbors had nothing to eat, the speaker’s family had a traditional granary that allowed them to distribute food to others. This moment of community support and local resilience sparked the joy and inspiration to create a "feeding farm."

Transition to Sustainable Farming

In 2012, the speaker chose to quit a career as a mechanical engineer to start a small farm from scratch. The project focuses on producing food that can last for three years without preservatives, using traditional techniques to manage environmental uncertainty like lack of rain. Despite the initial struggle and the difficulty of leaving city life, the farm has become a reality, evolving from a simple olive grove into a lush garden and an educational hub.

Overcoming Personal and Professional Challenges

The transition was a major life shift, involving the sale of a car and quitting a job just one week before his wedding. There was a significant emotional challenge in convincing his wife to move to a place that, at the time, looked like a "mess" with nothing but olive trees. The speaker reclaims the name "Jihad" in its true sense: a struggle to build something meaningful and protect cultural heritage.

Educational and Community Impact

The farm now serves as a model for "farm-to-table" dining and ecological education. Universities and schools visit the site to learn about microbiology, small-scale farming, and sustainable gardening. The business continues to expand as a family endeavor, with relatives managing different parts of the ancestral land to keep the tradition alive.

Jihad shared his deep connection to the land and his philosophy of sustainable agriculture. He explained traditional planting techniques, like the Carthaginian method for Mediterranean trees, and demonstrated how he uses companion planting with tomatoes and basil. He also discussed the financial freedom of avoiding bank loans to foster creativity in farming. The conversation moved through his home, touching on family history and Tunisian culture, before exploring the seasonal cycles of permaculture.

Agricultural Philosophy and the Carthaginian Method. The Carthaginian Method of Planting

A traditional Mediterranean technique involves digging a large hole filled with layers of compost, soil, branches, and rocks. Rocks are used to cover the tree, keeping soil fresh in summer and warm in winter. This structure prevents soil compaction from rain and allows water to infiltrate slowly, boosting growth in dry climates.

Natural Growth vs. Forced Growth

Observations on tree development show that a tree's canopy reflects the spread of its roots; if a tree remains small, its root system is struggling. Environmental factors like sun and rain can wound fruit, yet it remains edible and part of the natural cycle. 

Financial Freedom and Creative Integrity. Loans as a Trap for Creativity.

Jihad maintains a strict "no loan" policy, believing that debt kills creativity and independence. Relying on natural cycles in farming makes loans dangerous because agricultural output is random and dependent on nature, whereas bank payments are fixed. A philosophy of "earning before spending" is emphasized: only take a loan if it is a small fraction of what has already been earned.

Independence in Farming

You echoed Jihad's philosophy by explaining that your success in building low income housing in California was due to utilizing grants instead of loans.  The freedom not to have to pay fixed costs meant that you could respond to varying income from rental income.  Thus, you could respond to the need of the clients you housed, and not the needs of the banks.  

Permaculture and Seasonal Wisdom. The Philosophy of the Four Seasons.

The garden is divided into four sections to represent the four seasons and the stages of plant growth. A simple rule for seasonal eating: Winter: Eat roots (carrots, onions) as the plant stops growing above ground. Spring: Eat flowers (artichokes, strawberries). Summer: Eat fruits (tomatoes, peppers, pumpkins). Year-round: Leaves (lettuce, fennel) can be consumed throughout.

Crop Rotation and Soil Health

A four-year cycle is followed: seeds (fava beans) -> roots -> leaves -> fruit.🍉Fava beans are used as "workers" to provide nitrogen to the soil, preparing it for the next stage of the cycle. Permaculture is defined here as permanent agriculture without engines, focusing on soil oxygenation and natural insect management through herbs like rosemary.

Cultural Heritage and Daily Life. Traditional Tunisian Living.

Practical use of Tunisian house roofs for rainwater collection, stored in underground tankers for irrigation. Preservation of traditional tools, such as stone mills used for crushing wheat into semolina for couscous. The significance of the "sepseri" (white dress) in Tunisian culture as a symbol of modesty and tradition.

Herbal Reproduction.

Use of floating plates to root perennial basil, distinguishing it from common annual basil used in modern cooking. Strategic companion planting: growing basil with tomatoes to support the tomato vines and improve health.

The Spirit of the Farm. Communication with Nature. 

The farmer speaks of trees as living entities that offer guidance on how to save and maintain the farm. Transitioning from selling raw fruit to value-added products like specialized olive oil for guest tables and food baskets. Recognition of the high polyphenol content in Tunisian olives, which provides health benefits and preserves the oil longer.

During a delightful lunch featuring fava beans, harissa, and farm-raised chicken, we explored the rich historical connections between Tunisia and Spain. We learned how family names like Pedrocci often reflect the cities ancestors fled during the Inquisition, such as Seville or Granada. The conversation begins with a discussion of various dishes and ingredients being served. Fava beans (baba beans) and chickpeas prepared with olive oil, cumin, and harissa Sun-dried tomatoes, raisins, fennel, and farm-raised chicken. Lemon juice sourced from a family culture. A specific culinary practice is noted regarding peeling certain ingredients based on familial traditions.

Historical and Ancestral Connections

The participants discuss the deep historical ties between Tunisia, Spain, and Portugal. Family names often reflect the city of origin, such as Portuguese, Sevilla (Ishbili), and Granada (Garnati). Other surnames are derived from professions or specific spices, like coriander or turmeric. The connection to the Andalusian road is highlighted through the work of a Spanish ambassador and historical travelers. Comparisons are drawn between the landscape of Tunisia and the south of Spain, specifically the rivers and trees.

Religious and Cultural Syncretism

The discussion explores the history of the Moriscos and the complexities of identity during the Inquisition. Families who were "Christians by day and Muslims by night" to survive religious persecution. Mention of "crypto-Christians" or Jewish families who lost the memory of their origins but maintained specific rituals. This blending of identities is characterized by the phrase "God in my heart," used when outward appearances had to meet the expectations of observers. The group compares naming conventions across different regions. In Tunisia and Spain, names are tied to cities, origins, or religions (like the name Tarifa or Toledo). In contrast, Norwegian naming traditions often lacked last names until the 19th century. A participant shares how their family name was derived from a geographical feature on their farm, specifically a "black rock" at the entrance. 

You finalized the logistics for tomorrow's early departure, covering everything from luggage collection to breakfast times. Suitcases need to be outside rooms by 5:00 AM for collection, with breakfast starting at 4:30 AM. You reviewed the check-in process for the flight and confirmed a 4:30 AM wake-up call for everyone. There was also a mention of a surprise waiting once you reach Djerba, adding a touch of mystery to the upcoming journey. The hotel restaurant will open for a buffet breakfast starting at 04:30. Guests are expected to be in the reception area by 05:15 to show passports and confirm luggage. The bus departure from the hotel is scheduled for 05:30. 

Staff will collect the luggage and bring it to the reception area for tagging. Backpacks can be transported by staff if placed on top of the suitcases.  The flight is scheduled for takeoff at 07:00 with an arrival in Djerba at 08:00. Check-in will be handled as a group under the organizer's name for convenience. The organizer is planning a special surprise for the group upon arrival in Djerba. There is a warm, protective atmosphere as the organizer coordinates safety details with the driver. The conversation reflects a sense of excitement and organized care for the group's journey. 

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia.