Saturday, October 5th, Honolulu, Hawaii

Sonoma County Board of Supervisors

Taking a break from your meetings, when my wife informed me she was headed to her grandparents' Tuscan mountain village for two weeks with a girlfriend, I decided to indulge a long-standing dream of revisiting my six-year-old La Jolla Coast Shorebreak child to enjoy body-whomping in the warm Waikiki waters.  After what Pat now rightly calls a fantasy crash and burn, that six-year-old yelled at me, “What the fuck happened to you?  What part of keeping your lungs strong, and being in complete control of your body did you NOT understand?”

We used to be horrified by those who came near the waves not respecting the shear power of water hydraulics, and not preparing for it adequately.  Now I had become one.  Weak legs, no lung endurance, easily exhausted.  Trusting who I used to be to make up for who I had become. Disaster.

Exiting Kaiser Honolulu Hospital three days later with a week’s worth of Azithromycin, Paxlovid, and my first introduction to a teaspoon every six hours of Opioids (Codein-Guaifenesin), I’m now gaining a first-hand experience handing my body over to a drug that tells my brain to ignore all pain signals.  Loading up my cell phone with hourly instructions for the medicines treating Bronchitis and Covid, I'm overjoyed at how the mucus buildup in my throat so easily and painlessly becomes what we used to call “Logees” that we’d hock at our feet in the parking lots after mornings of surf.  Without the Codeine telling my brain to stop sending signals, the pain would cause my upper chest to convulse so badly those around me were asking if I had Parkinson’s.  And that’s much like it feels to be a six-year-old in a 76-six-year-old body.

So bring on Opioid Education and Services to the Behavioral Health Board!  I can’t say upgrading this Boomer’s beer-busting insights to a serious dose of codeine-induced fear of addiction to the joys of not having a brain will better prepare me for service, but it has crossed my mind that it might improve my empathy and understanding considerably. And most of all, I want that six-year-old to see that I’ve decided to take better care of what he protected next time our paths cross.


Gregory Fearon

Sunday, September 29th, Honolulu, Hawaii

Greetings!

Pat and I are a world apart.  She's with a girlfriend (Barbara Tomin) in Luca, Italy on a trip of Tuscany and Umbria.  I'm in Honolulu, Hawaii (12 hours apart).  We flew out two days ago, and fly back on October 13th.  Same Airporter bus down to SFO, same back.  A little strange to get off at Terminal 3, with her staying on to the International.  

I'm staying the full 15 days at The Beach Waikiki by ALOH (Youth Hostel), one block from Waikiki.  It didn't take long to get in the water, getting out was harder.  I'm satisfying my 4yr-old child, whose time was mostly spent in the shorebreak waves in La Jolla, loving the sand between my toes and the water caressing my body.  But what was exciting about not being in control then, is a bit terrifying now.  These 76 year-old muscles don't present the same thrill when they have to fight harder to maintain a balance and convince me that I'm safe.  A lifetime of understanding the power of the sea has passed since my first immersion, and that interferes with the childhood joy.  

When I checked into the Hostel, the desk staff mentioned that the facility had an informal rule that they would accept those from 18 to 48.  Older travelers complained about the noise at night, and uncomfortable mattresses.  I wonder what my roommates think of the midnight pee runs, and my disinterest in sharing dating tips or rooftop drinking.

Last night, I created

"Waikiki Play".  While out on a breakwater pier, enjoying the scene of young swimmers, body-boarders, and other beach-goers, I took some photos and videos.  One of the young swimmers who used the waves breaking over the rocks to her physical delight caught my attention.  It reminded me of exactly what I came here to do.  I think it will evoke the sense of free play most of us experienced as children.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Sunday, September 29th, Honolulu, Hawaii.

Wednesday, May 8th, Valletta, Malta

 

Greetings!

Today was our last tour day.  We spent it visiting some of the locations that we previously were not able to because they were closed.  We also went to a museum, and two outstanding temple and megalith sites.  Due to a mistake by the tour company, we were not able to visit one large megalith site, but did get to take a few photos before we were kicked out.  

It rained today, so our walks were done being careful not to slip on pathways not well designed for slick surfaces. 

This being the last post of the tour, and because I've taken photos of most of the site signs, I'm going to pass on identifying the sites in this narrative.  You'll see where we went in the photo album.  I do want to take the opportunity to thank everyone of the tour, travelers, tourguide, and drivers.  Malta was a great end of the tour, partly because it contained the oldest and largest ruins, and partly because it contained sites and experiences which illuminated the whole span of history.

We're flying home tomorrow, and getting in late.  The next day is an important fundraiser for good friends of our in Marin (Center for Domestic Peace).  Thanks to all at the Original World, and Supreme Travel..

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, May 8th, Valletta, Malta.
  

Tuesday, May 7th, Valletta, Malta

Greetings!

It took us six hours to get to and from Goso today, an island one-third the size of Malta off the northern coast.  There have been proposals to build a bridge or a tunnel there, but all were discarded.  Much of the time was just getting through Malta's small towns between central Valletta and the coastal port at the town of Cirkewwa.  Ferries between there and the port of Mgarr on Gozo run every 25 minutes, and the round-trip fare is only about five Euros.  We had coachs on either end, and did experience a mechanical problem opening the coach door at one end. 

The first inhabitants of Gozo came from Sicily about 5,000 BC.  They were farmers, and only a thousand years earlier transitioned from hunter-gatherers to settled farmers.  Two of the structures (Ggantija) temples were erected more than 5500 years ago, before the pyramids of Egypt.  They are the second oldest existing manmade religious structures after Gobleki Teke in present day Turkey.  

The temples are built in the typical clover-leaf shape, with inner-facing blocks.  The space between the walls was filled with rubble.  A series of semi-circular apses is connected with a central passage covered by roofing.  The effort is a remarkable feat when considering the monuments were constructed when the wheel had not yet been introduced and no metal tools were available to the Maltese Islanders.   

An island trip wouldn't be complete without a visit to the cliffs edge.  We declined to take a ride in small boats out to an famous rock arch (the Azure Window) at Dwejra Bay which had collapsed recently.   Instead, we visited several really old windmills (1725), where millars called farmers to bring their grain by blowing through triton shells.

We ended the visit with a drive to the Roman Catholic Cathedral in the Cittadella of Victoria, the capital of Gozo.  The highest point on the island, its history epitomizes the many eras and architectural structures which have appeared.  Begun as a prehistoric settlement, then a Roman temple, it became a Christian and later a Byzantine church.  Recovered from early Arab destruction, a parish church was enlarged during the 15th and 16th centuries, then sacked by the Ottomans during the invasion of 1551.  Rebuilt once the island was retaken, it was damaged by an earthquake in 1693.  Finally, the present cathedral was begun in September of 1697.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, May 7th, Valletta, Malta.

Monday, May 6th, Valletta, Malta

Greetings!

We began today by visiting the Sanctuary Basilica of the Assumption of Mosta, which has the third largest unsupported dome in the world, and is Malta's largest and most famous church.  The church narrowly avoided destruction during World War II, when on April 9, 1942 a German aerial bomb pierced the dome and fell into the church during Mass but failed to explode.  The event was interpreted by the Maltese as a miracle.

Then to a glass-making company, and a jewelry warehouse.  One of our travelers remarked that this practice of stopping by a business which clearly wanted us to buy something is a bit unusual for this tour company.  Pat and I confirmed that we shy away from tour companies which do so, but it's not unusual for tours to get payments from these businesses.

 

The Palazzo Parisio and Gardens in Naxxar was our next stop.  Begun as a hunting lodge in 1733, it has been expanded and now is described as "a miniature Versailles", and has been used as a wedding site, filming location, wine store, and an R.A.F. Office during WWI.  

Then we drove to Mdina and Rabat to walk through the streets of two of the island's oldest communities.  The Catacombs of St Paul and of St Agatha reminded us of the Hypogeum, except that they were built 2,000 years later.  Though simpler and smaller, the similarity of their design reinforces the notion that underground burials must have been a strong part of the culture for the last six thousand years.  Those who constructed the Catacombs had no idea that the Hypogeum existed, and was used so far in the past.

Finally, we ended up in a short hike at the Dingli Cliffs, the highest point on the island, for a view of the small island of Filfa.  

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Monday, May 6th, Valletta, Malta.

Sunday, May 5th, Valletta, Malta

Greetings!

I'm going to try to describe our adventures today without immediately jumping to the last thing we saw - the Hypogeum.  I hope I can convey to you the enormity of the experience well enough for you to understand the degree of self-restraint involved.

So first,  the Tarxien Temples.  I've never seen a ruin site better protected.  So forgive me for too many shots of the canopy constructed over it.  Steel cables forty yards long supporting a seriously impervious roof.  Not that it rains around here.  

And that walkway, what care to place it as close to the walls and rocks.  While I appreciate the work done through a grant from Norway to facilitate access and education, I found it a little too presentational.  Much of the site has been reconstructed, and the viewer isn't clear enough on where original rock remains.

Next, we drove to the three cities in which Vallettans live, and which provide the most insight into the character of its history.  Around the edges of the harbor, the fishing and merchant communities of Senglea, Cospicua, and Vittoriosa wind their way along the walls and waterfronts, to the palaces, churches, forts and bastions.  Viewing luxury yachts next to original rowboats, and kayakers enjoying a seemingly endless water course.  We stopped for lunch at another great restaurant, and Michael mixed Maltese language lessons with his ability to provide us with just the right meal for each of our needs and tastes.

Finally, we narrived at the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum at our purchased appointment time (3pm).  Fortunately, an unused surrendered ticket allowed us to include a member of our group without one, and we all descended into an entirely underground series of three levels of limestone, with its halls and chambers interconnected through a labyrinth series of steps, lintels, and doorways.  Here is another link to this outstanding travel destination,  I classify it as one of the top ten ruin experiences I have visited.

Carved after 4,000 BC with antlers, flint, chert, and obsidian, and used as a sanctuary and necropolis, it contained an estimated 7,000 individuals, intricately decorated pottery vessels, stone and clay beads, shell buttons, amulets, axe-heads, and carved figurines depicting humans and animals. One of the figurine, the Sleeping Lady, is thought to represent a mother goddess.  Unfortunately, cameras were not allowed in the visit.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Sunday, May 5th, Valletta, Malta.

 

Saturday, May 4th, Valletta, Malta

Greetings!

We gathered in the hotel after breakfast, met our guide (Michael from Original World), and introduced ourselves.  A very experienced group of travelers, all are here either after other stops this travel, or are going to other countries after this one, or both.  one of them is from nearby our home (Greenbrae), and knows a very close friend of ours.  Two are from Florida, and two from Tennessee.  All have had very interesting lives.

Our first of many stops today was Saint John's Co-Cathedral, where Michael introduced us to Malta by  walking us through the Maltese home of the Knights of Malta (Order).  Organized by the eight regions (Provence, France, Auvergne, Italy, Aragon, including Navarre, England, including Scotland and Ireland, Germany, and the kingdom of Castille, Leon, and Portugal), the Order's mission is to protect the Catholic faith.  From 1113 to 1530, its knights, led by sequential GrandMasters, battled against Barbary pirates and Ottoman forces.  After an important setback in Rhodes in 1522, King Charles V of Spain (Holy Roman Emporer) gave the Order Malta in exchange for a yearly falcon.  

As Michael led us through the Church, we saw that each of the regions had apses displaying the colors, heralds, statues of famous leaders, tribunary supporters who paid to be buried under magnificent floor crypts, and plenty of powerful paintings.   We continue to be amazed at the amount of mind-blowing art and tributes within churches throughout our travels.  Everywhere one looks is another wonderous contribution to the story-telling and tributes collected in service of the religion.

The Italian artist, Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio, spent many years on the island, and his paintings "The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist" and "St Jerome Writing" are both displayed in the Cathedral.  Others of his are in the Lourve, and in the Palazzo Pitti in Florence.  His life, and works, struggle to reflect psycological realism, and a dramatic use of lighting.  Caravaggio vividly expressed crucial moments and scenes, often featuring violent struggles, torture, and death.  He worked rapidly with live models, preferring to work directly on canvas.   

After a stop at the Valletta Theateer for a 3D show of Malta history, we walked to the National Museum of Archeology.  It was another well-designed set of epic-themed displays, presenting evidence of the last 9,000 years of Malta's civilized cultures through tools, pottery, sculpture, and architecture.  

While my cell phone ran out of memory about the time we visited the GrandMaster's Palace and Armory, I have to say that both are well worth the visit, even as the brutal militaristic precision apparent in the weapons and armor confirmed the worst views of war.  

Michael timed our journey to end at the Upper Barrakka Gardens shortly before 4pm.  At that moment, one of the cannons established to defend the City, is fired each day to the recoil of the large crowd standing at the walls above the firing.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, May 4th, Valletta, Malta.
  

Friday, May 3rd, Valletta, Malta

Greetings!

Today, we flew Emirates (what a plush plane and service!) from Cyprus to Malta.  Even though it was only a two and a half hour flight, it took the whole day to drive to the rental car company, negotiate the payment for a slight bump that happened getting out of a parking space, get driven to the airport, wait for the flight, fly, get our luggage, get picked up and driven to the hotel, relax in the upgraded top floor suite, walk around our hotel area (wow), get dinner at a local restaurant, and come back and finish this blog.

In addition to being the best traveling buddy, making all of the arrangements for the travel itself, and keeping track of the rest of the world's activity (including our hometown), Pat is using some of her time getting very much smarter on the use of her IPhone and the Internet.  I am really impressed with her growing use of AI search tools.  With my Google knowledge, and her Apple and Meta knowledge, we've really become capable of learning.  

Tomorrow morning, we meet the other five members of our tour group, and begin six days of exploring Malta.  Our walk through the southern edge of the City's bayside fortress walls was almost overwhelming, and we can't wait to see what our tour company presents us for the rest of the trip.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, May 3rd, Valletta, Malta.

 

Thursday, May 2nd, Larnaca, Cyprus

Greetings!

On our last full day in Cyprus, we decided to take the car east of Larnaca to the southeastern tip of the island (and of Europe) to where frequently it's necessary to use dune buggies and four-wheel drive vehicles.  We were not disappointed with the ocean views, the pearly white sands, and the rugged cliffs dropping into some of the bluest and clearest water I've seen.  

It wasn't surprising that the town of Ayia Napa has attracted a couple of high-rise buildings, and several resorts on the beachfronts.  Nearby one of them is a burial tomb site, constructed in Roman times with a dozen deep caves carved into the limestone rock.  Yea, if I was a rich Roman merchant, I'd want my last days and beyond to be yards from these beaches.  Rivals anything Malibu has to offer.

But the absolute topper for the day, as anyone following this blog will guess, is the Thalassa Municipal Museum.  It was founded and directed by the Pierides Foundation, the same family which brought the two Cyprus Museums in Larnaca and Nicosia (also Athens).  This is the first museum of its kind across the Mediterranean region to present the impact and significance of the sea upon the history of the island.  The museum incorporates seven levels within a three-story building made of marble, onyx, wood, metal, and other unique experiences appealing to all of our senses with its birds eye view.

Its paleontological, geological, archeological marine-life exhibits are presented in underground showcases, where visitors are able to walk and view from the all perspectives.  Pat and I found the descriptions in the cases some of the best explanations of the many important time periods which frame the last six thousand years of area history.  Definitely worth the trip out to this coast.

Tomorrow, we fly to Malta, to join a tour with five others hosted by a company from San Rafael in Northern California.  We'll be staying in a single hotel, and taking day-trips all over the island.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, May 2nd, Larnaca, Cyprus.

  

 

Wednesday, May 1st, Larnaca, Cyprus

Greetings!

Today was an international holiday, and I wish I could say that was the reason for a sparse travel day.  The truth is that we began early in the morning on our drive from Nicosio to Larnaca, and arrived around 11am.  Our hotel was willing to let us park in their lot, and provided a good buffet brunch.  Check-in time was still 2pm, so we walked from there down to the shorefront, and along the beach for a mile or two.  

The Viking cruise ship we spotted when we first arrived in the country three weeks ago was still there.  Pat's skill with AI has improved, and we learned that the ship is still being built, and won't be put into service for another year or two.  

Further down the beach, we encountered the mosque we had seen on our first visit.  Once again closed, we were disapointed to only see its beautiful outside.  

We were able to spend an hour inside the Church of Saint Lazuras.  Watching the many entrants honor their faith with ritual candles, prayers, and elaborate remonstrations was informative.  Pat provided me with some insights into what we were seeing from her Catholic background.

Returning to our hotel to check-in, we decided our need to visit Larnaca was almost complete.  Two days at the beginning of our trip, and a day planned for tomorrow to see something other than ruins was enough.  The rest of today was spent reading in our room, and watching "Springtime for Hitler" and "Rock of Ages" on television.  

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, May 1st, Larnaca, Cyprus.

Tuesday, April 30th, Nicosia, Cyprus

Greetings!

The Cyprus Museum in Nicosia has one of the most extensive and impressive collection of Neolithic, Chalcolithic, Early-Middle-Late Bronze Age, Iron Age, Helenistic, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman archeological materials.  Pat and I spent two hours this morning, avoiding tourist groups and trying to listen to an audio guide in quieter corners.  We were amazed at the life-like figurines, incredibly useful tools, and artistic skill displayed by the objects presented.  Most photographed were at least 3,000 years old.

Demonstrating influences from all over the eastern Mediterranean for almost three thousand years, it is clear that Cyprus became a center of commerce and cultural interconnections.  Room after room we visited contained glass cases showcasing more and more treasures (with description, location, and period produced).  The audio guide added important insights into sources of materials and perspectives on scenes displayed or techniques used.

Exhausted, we returned to our apartment for lunch and battery charging (both us and our equipment). 

To see all of the many photos taken today, click on Tuesday, April 30th, Nicosio, Cyprus.

Monday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus

Greetings!

Our walk through the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus went well today.  Not far away from our apartment, our passports were scanned at both the southern and northern edges of the Green Zone.  Plenty of tourists were exploring the narrow streets and shops which dot the two mile square area.  Unfortunately, every museum and mosque were also as closed as those in the south, and seemed to be using this time to undergo remodeling.

The Buyuk Han, one of Cyprus largest and best-preserved caravansarai which now houses craft artisans reminded us of those in Samarkand, Uzbekistan along the original Silk Road.  The ground floor has a mescit (islamic prayer room) balanced on six pillars over a fountain, in the middle of what once were stables for horses and camels.  Upstairs are rooms where merchants were housed much like we are currently.  This design is rare, and found only in two others in central Turkey.

We also got to visit the Tas Eserler Muzesi (lapidary Museum), exhibiting stonework including a varied collection of medieval era examples of column capitals, stelae, and a gothic window rescued from the Lusignan Palace that once stood near Ataturk Meydan.  As Pat continues to be annoyed at my mention, there is a connection to my ancestors here.  Guy of Lusignan purchased Cyprus from my 22nd great granduncle (Richard the Lion-hearted), who used the funds to pay for the Third Crusade to take back Jerusalem from Saladin. Earlier, traveling himself to Jerusalem, and becoming temporarily King of Jerusalem by marrying Queen Sybilla in 1186, Guy lost the Battle of Hattin, and was captured by Saladin and released a few years later. 

As I told Pat, like in quite a few of these buildings,  a slight variation of the coat of arms of my family prominently proclaims a connection to our lineage.  A rampant lion, the symbol of the Plantagenet monarchy, is an embarrassment in this case to all who acknowledge a family connection.  Saladin should have killed the asshole for his direction of Renaud de Chatillon, and his many military infidelities.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Monday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus.    

 

Sunday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus

Greetings!

Today (in the Eastern Gregorian Calendar) was Palm Sunday in Cyprus.  Just before we left the village of Arsos, we watched the town commemorate Christ's entry into Jerusalem.

We drove northeast through the rest of the Troodos Mountains to Nicosia, capital of the country.  For those unaware, Cyprus is divided by an illegal occupation by Turkey of the northern areas controlled by the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.  Our route stayed just south of the Green Line, named after the color of the pen used to define the separation in the agreement reached in 1964.

I wish I could say that our entry into Nicosia was a pleasant one.  Our apartment hosts (and most in Europe) assumed that we understand the use of WhatsApp, and that we could retrieve and utilize the room access instructions.  All afternoon, we struggled to gain the key and code to open up the apartment door.  It was the most frustrating apartment access we have ever had.   You would think that a simple email with instructions would be the procedure.  Not here.  Or a phone number one could call.  Since we have a European Holafly Esim, including a phone number we could call has been the usual process.  Not here.  We finally got the agency which handles the apartment to include our number in their WhatsApp contacts, after which their video explaining (barely) a very elaborate drop box and power switch process.  Whew.  All we could do when we finally obtained entry was to fall into the bed exhausted and frustrated.

To see the two other photos of the Palm Sunday procession in Arsos, click on Sunday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus.  And we hope your Sunday was better than ours.

Saturday, April 27th, Arso, Cyprus

Greetings!

After breakfast at the hotel, we drove to the Nea Paphos district of the city, and walked the Paphos Archeological Park,   The park is filled with large houses (the house of Thesus is 120 meters by 80 meters) with mosaic floors which are detailed and colorful, depicting mythical scenes.  The work excavating the site began in 1965, and continues today by Polish universities in Warsaw and Krakow. 

Though some sections of houses are covered, the majority are open with walkways rising above the rooms to better observe the floors.  

Begun by Nicocles in the 4th century BC,  the building accelerated 150 years later when the Ptolomies moved the capital of Cyprus from Salamis to Paphos.   For six hundred years, additions reflected late Helenistic and then Roman architectural and thematic influences.

Our main task today was to drive to our next night's stay in Arso in the Troodos Mountains inland.  But first, we wanted to visit a small popular village also in the hills (Omodos).  Known for its wine festival, monastery, weavers, and many restaurants, we killed several hours enjoying a couple of great tuna salads and smoothies while watching lots of tourists and cats. 

We drove the very narrow and winding streets from Omodos to Arso, and located our reserved night stay,  With parking at a premium, and Google Maps only marginal, it was a definite adventure.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, April 27th, Arso, Cyprus.

Friday, April 26th, Paphos, Cyprus

Greetings!

After breakfast in the hotel, we drove to the Paphos Archeological Museum,  Another in the many local treasures which showcase the materials produced and placed in burial caves in the area over the past 3.,000 years.  The main story gained from these ruin and museum visits is how many and how advanced the civilizations were which occupied this island long before Greece or Rome or anyone in the last 2,000 years lived here.  We've lately begun to ignore the work which represents the last thousand years in the museums or on the ground.  As beautiful and important as it is, it just doesn't compare.

In a few days, we'll be in the capital city of Cyprus, and we'll visit the national archeology museum.  I'm sure it will be the super-dazzle old world visit, but these local museums do a great job of helping tell the story of the history of the Cyprus.  Families whose merchant and political lives carved huge impacts on each city have donated their collections to private homes turned into museums.  Free entrance to residents and visitors, hosted by patient and informed guides, complete the experience.  

Not wanting to limit our Cyprus experience to ruins, museums, and coastal walks, we drove north up into the hill above Paphos to Polis to see the northern edge of the island.  Nearby is the Baths of Aphrodite, with a botanical garden leading up to it.  Thankfully not a long uphill walk, we joined a few others imagining the greek goddess spending a quiet time in the cool waterfall grotto hideaway.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, April 26th, Paphos, Cyprus.