Thursday, Sept 19th, Fes, Morocco

Greetings!

Today had a full agenda, and Zak and our local guide Abdul kept us hopping.  Our first stop was the Fes Medina, often considered the world's most well-preserved medieval city. 

We made a beeline for the Jewish section (mellah) to visit a 17th century synagogue, and be treated to a private tour.

Understanding that Fes has over nine-thousand streets (none of them looking designed in a pattern), we promised Abdul to stay bundled together as we entered the markets (souks).  Car-free, but sporting carts and donkeys, these narrow passageways revealed vendors of every craft.

Stopping at the metalworkers section, we paused for tea overlooking a 300 year-old sycamore tree.  The cachophony of sounds almost sounded symphotic as we rested.

We visited the entrance the oldest operating university in the world (begun in 859AD), and heard Abdul describe the Muslim prayer ceremony.  Begun by a woman, some of the greatest minds in 13-15th century Spain and France taught or studied there.

The Fes Tannery, complete with one of the foulest smells, was next on our itinerary. An official shopping stop, several in our group bought jackets made of the leather cleaned, dyed, and dried there.  That pigeon poop was an essential ingredient in the liquid used to soften the hides was new information.  An unfair criticism I initially had that we weren't shown more of the clothing manufacturing process I have discarded.  The Fes Tannery is just the first step in leatherworking.  The work of turning the leather produced by it into finished products is done by small craft workers all over the City, and can't possibly be included in a tour.

For those who want to view short videos of the Fes Tannery,  and the 21st century update showing how Italy keeps up its fourth place position in world leather production, click on th highlighted links.

Next were the weavers, where the process from agave threads, cotton, and wool fibers were woven into beautiful scarves and other Moroccan clothing.  Modeling our Sahara look, we prepared for our camp experience beginning on Sunday.

Then on to the tile and pottery factory, where Moroccan grey and white clay has for ages been formed into the facades, plates, bowls, and floors of the world.  Pat bought a wonderful bowl we hope makes it home in our baggage.

We returned to our riad and rested, and then went out again to enjoy another home-hosted dinner with a family a little ways from our riad.  OATS features these home-visits, without guides, to offer us an opportunity to interact several times and ask questions in order to get to know the rural and urban families of the places we see.  The dinners are always generous and much of the conversation is personal and quite intimate.  It's an opportunity for both the families and us to explore each other's lives.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, Sept 19th, Fes, Morocco.