Friday, April 24th, Constantine, Algeria

Greetings!

During a bus journey to Constantine, our guide shared a deeply personal and historical account of the Algerian Civil War, known as the 'Black Decade.' We learned how the conflict began after the 1991 elections were canceled to prevent an Islamist victory, leading to a decade of extreme violence that claimed half a million lives. Our guide explained the complex reconciliation process, the current policy of non-negotiation with terrorists, and why this painful era is notably absent from official school textbooks.

We were accompanied at all time on the road by police vehicles.  All foreign groups in Algeria must have a police escort across different states due to historical security protocols. The group successfully navigated out of Algiers with minimal traffic because it is Friday (a weekend/holiday). A stop at a gas station was planned before reaching Constantine, offering another opportunity for a bathroom break. Some audio whisper devices are non-functional. Replacements are currently limited as most units are already in use. 

Following independence in 1962, the country was ruled by a single party (FLN/Army).
An economic crisis in the 1980s led to widespread frustration among the youth. In the early 1990s, the political system was opened, leading to the rise of the Islamic Salvation Front (FIS). The Islamic party won the first and second rounds of parliamentary elections.
The army intervened and falsified results to prevent the establishment of an Islamic state. This interference triggered widespread riots and the eventual formation of extremist armed groups.

Extremists moved to the mountains to wage war against the government. Civilians were caught between both sides; supporting one made them a target for the other. An estimated 500,000 people died during this "Black Decade.". Tactics included bombings, public executions, and strict night curfews. Former President Bouteflika proposed the Charter for Peace and National Reconciliation. A national vote was held, and the majority of Algerians voted for forgiveness and a ceasefire.

Those who surrendered underwent investigations and served jail time if involved in major crimes. Young or minor participants were given new identities and financial aid to re-enter society. All former insurgents remain under permanent 24-hour government surveillance. The military is highly experienced in counter-terrorism and is considered a regional model for these operations. During the war, Algeria was isolated; neighbors like Tunisia and Morocco were hesitant to assist due to fears of the conflict spreading. The government avoids public discussion of this era, partly because many current officials or military leaders were involved in controversial decisions during the conflict. 

Our travel group shared frustrations regarding the service at our hotel in Algeria. Despite its architectural beauty and historical significance, you experienced persistent issues like missing towels, non-functional room keys, and restrictive bar policies. The group leader acknowledged these recurring complaints, noting that while the location is iconic, the service often falls short of international standards. After discussing these hospitality challenges, the group prepared for a short break at a gas station before continuing their journey and upcoming discussion.

Staff reportedly refused to charge drinks directly to rooms unless food was also ordered.
There is a suspicion that bartenders avoid room charges to simplify their own workload during busy periods. The location is described as central but isolated from shops and city life, making it ideal for work but difficult for casual outings.

The hotel is recognized for its immense historical significance and architectural beauty, particularly its tiles and spacious rooms. It is noted as being an attractive spot for overseas travelers due to its connections to figures like Eisenhower and the Allied history. Despite the "five-star" rating, the consensus is that the service does not meet international standards. The group leader mentioned a constant struggle to get staff to fulfill guest requests, often requiring three or four reminders.

The group is considering changing hotels for future trips due to the persistent service failures. A brief stop was scheduled at gas station to allow travelers a 10-minute break. The tour leader coordinated the use of "whisper" devices to ensure everyone could participate in an upcoming discussion once they returned to the bus. There was a lighthearted moment of checking in on each other's physical well-being after long travel, specifically asking if everyone's "legs still work."

We listened to an educational tour of the ancient Roman city of Djemila, known as Cuicul, in Algeria. The guide explained the city's unique V-shaped layout, dictated by surrounding mountains and streams. We learned about the transition from military veterans settling in the first century to the city's peak expansion under Emperors Septimius,Severus, and Caracalla. The tour highlighted the House of Bacchus, a massive private residence, the Christian neighborhood with its early basilicas, and the impressive 3,000-seat theater.

The French conducted most of the archaeological excavations in Algeria during the 18th and early 19th centuries. Work at the site of Jmira (Cuicul) stopped in 1954 due to the Algerian War of Independence. The site was documented using a "moquette" (scale model) created by French archaeologists to show the city's structure.

The city was founded in the 1st century AD, primarily for retired Roman military veterans. The location was chosen for its water sources (two bordering streams) and the protection provided by surrounding mountains. Unlike typical square Roman cities, Jmira has a unique V-shape due to the terrain and streams. The city is highly elevated, sitting at 900 meters above sea level. Key early structures include: Thermal baths and a central market.

The Temple of Venus and residential apartments for the wealthy.. The city reached its peak in the 2nd century under Emperor Septimius Severus.Massive expansion occurred in the 3rd century under Emperor Caracalla.Caracalla’s Reforms: He changed citizenship laws, granting it to anyone who lived in the city and built houses,rather than requiring 25 years of military service.

The Cardo Maximus (the main road connecting north to west). A theater with a capacity for 3,000 spectators.The Arch of Caracalla and a new forum. A fabric market and public toilets.

Expanded to include large gymnasiums, cold rooms (Frigidarium), and hot rooms (Caldarium). Water Management: Large cisterns were used for water supply, utilizing gravity to distribute water and manage the sewage system. Residential Life: The "House of Bacchus" is the largest residence found, featuring extensive mosaics and

meeting spaces.

A "Christian Neighborhood" emerged in the 3rd and 4th centuries as residents converted from paganism. The area includes a bishop’s residence, a baptistry, and two basilicas (4th and 5th centuries). The Byzantines occupied the city until the 6th century. The site was eventually abandoned as Arab settlers prefer] Mosaics served as decorative "carpets" for both aristocrats and common households. The stones used were natural (not painted) and sourced from nearby mountains. Common colors include yellow, orange, and white, which have remained vibrant due to the natural properties of the rock.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, April 24th, Constantine, Algeria