Thursday, April 23rd, Algiers, Algeria
Greetings!
Today was a thorough walk through the Kasbah.
Exploring the Algiers Kasbah and Ottoman History
Our tour today explored the history of the Algiers Kasbah, and the Ottoman Empire's influence on Algerian society. We took a guided historical tour through the heart of Algiers, exploring the iconic Kasbah. Houssem explained the architectural significance of the hilltop city and the hierarchical structure of the Ottoman era, detailing the roles of the Sultan, Day, Bay, and Basha. We learned about the evolution of the city from the 15th century through French colonization, and discussed the cultural transitions between Roman, Islamic, and Ottoman influences.
\
The political hierarchy consisted of the Sultan (Turkey), the Day (Governor of the country), and the Bay (Regional ruler). Algiers was originally a Roman city called Icosium before the Ottomans expanded it and built defensive walls. The "Day" lived in a protected citadel (fortress) on the hill to ensure the safety of the entire country.
The French Colonization (1830–1962)
The "Fan Incident" served as the French excuse for invasion after the Day struck a French ambassador with a fan during a heated negotiation. The French expanded Algiers beyond the original Kasbah, building European-style structures, schools, and roads. Sirkeji Prison was built by the French in 1857 on Ottoman remains to hold and execute Algerian resistance fighters via guillotine.
The Kasbah is a "Medina" built on a hill, featuring narrow, maze-like alleys designed to confuse invaders. Houses often lacked large outside windows to maintain privacy and ventilation, with life centered around internal courtyards. Many historic buildings are currently in a state of neglect, though the government and locals are slowly starting renovations.
Hammams: Traditional baths consist of three rooms (hot, medium, and cold) to allow the body to adjust temperatures gradually..
Women's Attire: Traditionally, women wore the "Al-Hayet," a white cloth covering the body and face (leaving only the eyes) as a symbol of purity and modesty.
We visited local families, like the Mahied family, who have maintained carpentry shops for generations, creating handcrafted Ottoman-style furniture.
The Mahied Family House is a living example of resistance where the family refused to leave their ancestral home despite government offers to move. The house features secret hideouts, including a seven-meter-deep hole used to conceal weapons from French soldiers. The family honors several martyrs who died during the war of independence, including young Ahmed, who was executed at age 19.
The group discusses the history of Algerian houses and how residents hid gunpowder and weapons from the French. They mention specific holes or hidden compartments behind furniture and under carpets. The discussion reflects a deep respect for the cleverness and resilience of the local people in preserving their privacy and safety during historical conflicts.
Despite the heavy history of war and colonialism, the tour is filled with moments of connection, such as sharing sweet mint tea on a panoramic rooftop. The locals find joy in their heritage, hospitality, and the vibrant "vibes" of their neighborhood, welcoming visitors with open arms and photos. There is a bittersweet reflection on the "disappearing" nature of the Kasbah as people move away, yet a resilient hope remains in the new shops and cafes opening up. Next, we visited a venue early and learned about the impressive lifespan and traits of African Grey parrots. Arriving early for a visit, we spent time observing African Grey parrots. A companion shared that these birds can live for over 40 years,. One traveler mentioned a friend who has a 42-year-old parrot. The birds have an impressive leg size, and a friendly nature. There is a sense of wonder and joy in realizing these animals become lifelong family members.
The guide explains the menu for a traditional meal in Algiers, creating an atmosphere of hospitality. The meal starts with Sharba (soup) and salad. The main dish is Rechta, a famous dish from Algiers/Constantine consisting of very thin semolina noodles. It is traditionally served with chicken, white sauce, chickpeas, turnips, and other vegetables. Special dietary accommodations are made for a traveler avoiding meat, ensuring everyone feels included
in the culinary experience.
The participants share their travel histories and upcoming adventures, showing a shared passion for exploring the world. One speaker is heading to a Greek island for a "lazy week" before a trip to the Galapagos and Peru in February. There is mention of an independent trip to Madagascar being planned. They discuss the pros and cons of organized tours (like OAT) versus independent travel. The group reminisces about "wild" train experiences in other countries. They recall a train in Thailand that passes directly through a market, where vendors fold back their stalls just seconds before the train arrives. Another memory involves the simple joy of children waving at a passing train, capturing a nostalgic and happy feeling of human connection across borders.
We learned about the Ketchoua Mosque's history and the tragic origins of Martyr's Square. The conversation detailed the history of the Ketchoua Mosque in Algeria, land how it was transformed from a mosque to a church during French colonization and back again after independence. There were tragic protests at Martyr's Square, where many Algerians died defending the site. The conversation shifted to practicalities as someone in your group dealt with a knee injury, while you also discussed the roles of the Ministries of Culture and Tourism in maintaining historical sites and improving railings for accessibility. The group discussed the importance of railings and better accessibility for elderly travelers or those with mobility issues.
Ketchaoua Mosque History
The building is a 16th-century World Heritage site with a complex history of transformation.
Originally a mosque, it was converted into a church by the French during the colonial era
Argenians protested this conversion, leading to violent atrocities and significant loss of life.
Martyr's Square was named in honor of those who died defending the mosque
After independence, the government restored it as a functional mosque which remains beautiful and active today. Discussion regarding traditional clothing and comfort for local men
Many wear a two-piece "chemis" with matching pants or comfortable underwear to allow airflow after a long day in tight jeans.
The group conducted a quick visit to a local museum divided into two primary sections
Section one featuring Roman mosaics and statues. One section focuses on Islamic art, history, and tools used by Arabs in the past. Our guide highlighted a Muslim cemetery visible nearby during the transition between sites.
One participant is currently dealing with a painful knee injury. The group is providing support with ice packs and arranging for a doctor to check the injury at the hotel. There is a sense of community care, ensuring the injured person has the easiest paths to walk during
future tours.
The group is preparing for a challenging but exciting day at the Roman city of Djemila. A 7:30 AM departure is required to manage a total of six hours of driving. The schedule includes lunch, a museum visit, and two hours exploring the ancient site. Guests must pack tonight and place luggage outside rooms by 7:00 AM. Breakfast is available at 6:00 AM. Dinner tonight is at the participants' own leisure, with options at the hotel lobby bar or nearby local restaurants.
No comments:
Post a Comment