Tuesday, May 5th, Diar Abou, Habibi, Tunisia

Greetings!

Today, we took a guided tour through the vibrant market of Tozeur, Tunisia. Our guide led us through the vegetable and fish markets, explaining the local distinction between regular tax-paying sellers and the illegal street vendors that emerged after the revolution. We learned about traditional attire, like the black dress worn by local women, and unique Tunisian practices like butchers displaying animal heads to signify fresh meat. The tour concluded at the Medina entrance with some free time for exploring.

The guide outlines a walking tour through Tozeur, starting with a path toward the "black gate" entrance of the market. Plans include a shortcut through the Medina to visit a covered area and an archaeological mausoleum. A 20-minute break is scheduled for participants to wander, withdraw money from nearby ATMs, or visit a cafe for shade. A woman in a black dress with a white stripe is highlighted as wearing the traditional dress of Tozeur. Legal sellers are located inside the market buildings, paying taxes and rent to the municipality.  

The tour passes through a fish market despite being 120 miles from the sea; the guide shares a humorous piece of advice from his father: "where you cannot see the sea, you cannot eat the fish." Fresh tomatoes are available for approximately one dollar per kilogram. Other local produce mentioned includes okra and various fresh vegetables.

The guide actively helps participants navigate obstacles, repeatedly warning them to "mind the step" and avoid cars. Support is offered for financial logistics, including locating ATMs, changing large bills ($50), and negotiating currency exchange at the hotel. The tone is helpful and protective, ensuring everyone stays in the shade and feels comfortable during their free time.

We explored a local market area where your guide pointed out how various goods, from coffee and sugar to diapers and cheese, are smuggled in from Algeria. We navigated busy streets filled with motorbikes and horse-drawn carriages, observing the informal economy in action. The tour transitioned from discussing the logistics of illegal imports and illegal fruit vendors to a more personal moment where you were encouraged to interact with a group of local Tunisian women in the shade. A vast array of products on display are sourced illegally across the border from Algeria. Items include olive oil, soap, sugar, coffee, and cheese.  Non-food items like diapers, shampoo, and tuna are also part of the smuggled inventory. 

Most sellers in this specific area are operating their stalls illegally Despite the illicit nature, these goods represent the primary stock for local street vendors  The environment is bustling and chaotic, requiring constant attention to safety.  The guide warns about motorbikes and carriages passing through narrow spaces. Strategic movement is needed, such as walking close to walls and seeking shade to avoid the heat. There is a visible effort by locals to maintain the area by disposing of trash in specific wall cavities.  The scene captures a joyful and vibrant interaction between visitors and Tunisian locals 

The guide encourages spontaneous conversations with Tunisian ladies to foster a sense of community. There is a genuine warmth in the exchanges, highlighting the friendly spirit of the neighborhood. The atmosphere is one of resilience and daily hustle, finding beauty in the midst of a busy trading hub. 

Your companions enjoyed a detailed discussion about Tunisian food while placing an order, exploring options like Brick, Chorba, and Tunisian salad. The conversation transitioned into nostalgic travel stories, particularly focusing on Southeast Asia. One traveler shared memories of French baguettes in Vietnam, shrimp donuts, and the incredible hospitality in Bangkok, where a chef once shared a secret recipe. The dialogue highlighted a shared passion for diverse culinary traditions and the generous spirit of the people met during your travels. The group discussed the availability of various dishes, noting that grilled meat options are limited to chicken and turkey. While grilled camel is not available, camel is served in other styles, such as with couscous. The menu includes "Chorba," a traditional soup with pasta, and "Fingers of Fatima," which are rolled and fried appetizers similar to those the group made previously. Other bread-based options include "Brick" (a thin pastry) and a larger triangle-shaped version of the same dough. The conversation highlighted a variety of fresh and grilled salads. "Salat Mushuiya" is a grilled salad made with peppers, onions, garlic, and tomatoes. "Tunisian Salad" consists of diced cucumber, tomatoes, and onions mixed with olive oil and salt. Concerns were raised regarding food safety, specifically confirming that raw salads are washed with bottled water. The speakers decided to share several items to sample the local flavors. The order included one "Brick," "Fingers of Fatima," and "Shorba" (tomato-based soup). For main courses, they discussed "Spaghetti Drumade," where meat is cooked in a red tomato sauce and served over the pasta. Beverages ordered included regular Coke and both still and sparkling bottled water, with one bottle being pleasantly frozen.

There was high praise for Thai food, specifically the beauty of the farmers' markets and the quality of fresh mangoes and seafood. A heartwarming memory was shared about a hotel in Bangkok where, after a guest enjoyed a local treat wrapped in bamboo leaves, the staff slipped the recipe under their door. The group reflected on how different cultures express their obsession with food through presentation and generosity. They noted the beauty of food presentation in Malaysia and Thailand. There was a shared sense of joy in discovering local traditions, such as eating food wrapped in leaves or learning family recipes passed down through generations.

The group spent time navigating the logistics of your trip, specifically arranging laundry service and confirming dinner plans for 7:00 PM. The conversation drifted into the experiences sightseeing, where it was noted the beauty of palm tree fences and discussed visiting a palm museum and historical dioramas. We also reflected on local customs, comparing wedding traditions in Algeria and India, specifically the use of henna. Throughout the day, we managed group dynamics and minor frustrations with WhatsApp communication while enjoying the local scenery.  Laundry status Clothes will be ready and available approximately 30 minutes before dinner, around 6:30 PM. Payment for the laundry service is requested in cash. Dinner is confirmed for 7:00 PM. The group has free time to rest or explore until the meal begins.  Discussion regarding a local artisan making items, which added value and meaning to the objects seen. Mention of a "Palm Museum" and botanical gardens located near a path lot. Observation of a building featuring a large bass fiddle or violin-like structure on top.  Reflections on wedding traditions in Algeria, noting they are more traditional with men and women often celebrating separately. Discussion about the use of henna, specifically noting patterns seen on women's feet and the mention of "white henna."

The group enjoyed a "great day" of exploring, including mentions of a zip line and the "Sahara Lounge." Participants discussed physical activity, with one person planning a walk to the museum after resting.  Some minor frustration regarding the use of WhatsApp groups; specifically, the difficulty of messaging individuals rather than the whole group. Acknowledgment that having a guide to document and send out information works very well for these trips.  Lighthearted moments involving a horse "breathing down someone's neck" while trying to make friends with it. A brief taste test comparing Diet Coke to regular Coke and noting the difference in sweeteners.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, May 5th, Diar Abou Habibi, Tunisia