Wednesday, March 29th, Kathmandu, Nepal

Greetings!

Gregory "had a spell" at breakfast - electrolyte imbalance, I think.  I got him in the room, and plied him with said stuff, and he dropped off to sleep.  The group went across the river to the Patan area (different city).   We walked to the Temple of the Kumari Ghar - the living Goddess  - believed to be a manifestation of the goddess Durga.  The current goddess is a 10-year old, selected at age 5 by Buddhist priests and priestesses.  She serves until her menstruation.  The belief is that Durga visited the King once a tear to grant him his power.  His queen believed he was cheating on her, so Durga said she chose a young girl to inhabit.  Today, no king, so once a year she blesses the Prime Minister.  She must show no emotion, be carried everywhere, wear red and not leave her temple home except to participate in 16 festivals/year.

The group entered the room and got the blessing of a red smudge on their foreheads.  Next door, a previous Goddess resides.  She's 20-ish and speaks excellent English.  She spoke of her transition (to re-learning to walk).  She is studying and hopes to be a flight stewardess, and plays a traditional 21-string instrument.  She has a YouTube channel, and her older brother is her manager.  She has been recruited to join a political party trying to restore the Monarchy and pressure traditional Nepali culture.  Kumari is her title.

Next, we walked to the Patan Darbar Square, a magnificent multi-temple square and 17th century King's Palace (now a lovely museum with copper and brass castings/statuary and wood carvings.  The doors, windows, and surroundings contained elaborate carvings.  There were about five five pagodas 

We also went to a shop selling bowls: seven layers of metal hammered by the full moon(clear sky).  We each experienced a treatment (head or back).  Back at the hotel, Gregory is up and having lunch.  Whew!

At 5pm, we gathered to hear a presentation from, and meet, Maya Sherpa - the first female Nepali to summit Everest and first female Sherpa guide.  She came from a small mountain village farm family, but always dreamed of a bigger life (too many rules for girls).  Started working as a trekking guide (to base camps).  Then, was given a chance to climb and guide.  She's done Everest from both Nepali and China/Tibet sides, the first K2 all-woman Nepali assent of K2, and about a dozen other mountains.  She'd like to climb all the highest mountains (2 left in Nepal, 5 in Pakistan).  Well-spoken English and unassuming.  She married a mountain climber, and has a 10-year old daughter.  We bought her book on the K2 assent (autographed!).  Remarkable day.  We had our welcome dinner at Opium Pesto on a glitzy drag in town.  Tomorrow, we fly to see Everest!

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, March 29th, Kathmandu, Nepal