Friday, May 8th, Kairouan, Tunisia

Greetings!

We visited a handmade mosaic workshop where the owner shared his journey from a marketing graduate to creating his own factory. He demonstrated the intricate process of creating mosaics, from cutting natural marble with custom-built machines to the 'reverse' assembly technique on plastic. We saw how water and wax bring out the stones' natural vibrancy, and even had a chance to try placing a piece ourselves. The visit concluded with some of the group purchasing pieces to be delivered later to your hotel. 

The group was introduced to Mr. Goodbye, the owner and a pioneer of handmade mosaics in the Anton area. He established the company to provide employment for local women and preserve the craft. The workshop focuses on traditional techniques, creating intricate designs like those seen in Roman history.  Artisans use a "reverse technique" where stones are glued face-down onto plastic or paper.  Once the pattern is set, it is covered with specialized cement or polyester, depending on whether the piece is for a wall, floor, or swimming pool.  After the adhesive dries, the piece is flipped, cleaned of temporary glue, and treated with a special wax or varnish. 

 A simple application of wax or water is used.  The owner shared his entrepreneurial journey, explaining that he used his marketing degree to start the business when he couldn't find a government job. Because imported Italian machinery was too expensive, he designed and built his own stone-cutting machines. The process involves three stages of cutting: from large slabs down to tiny "clipper" pieces used for fine detail.

The owner created a massive 12x2 meter mosaic currently housed in the Bardo National Museum. A significant current project is a large-scale depiction of Hannibal crossing the Alps, destined for the Ministry of Defense in Indonesia. Every stone color used is natural, sourced directly from the earth without artificial dyes.  Visitors had the opportunity to try placing stones themselves under the owner's guidance. Small mosaic pieces were available for purchase, ranging in price from 30 to 50 dinars. The owner offered a "buy now, pick up later" service where items would be polished, bubble-wrapped, and delivered to the visitors' hotel to ensure safe transport.

We visited the stunning Colosseum of El Jem in Tunisia, the third-largest Roman amphitheater. Our guide shared the dramatic history of its construction, sparked by a conflict over olive oil between the Roman representative Gordianus I and the Berber chief Kuseila. We learned how the site shifted the nature of gladiator combat to human-versus-animal fights, involving thousands of lions. After the historical tour, you were given free time to explore the underground lion tunnels and the upper tiers before lunch.  After the visit, the group will walk five minutes to a restaurant for lunch, followed by a visit to a museum.  

Visitors are reminded to bring their "whispers" (audio headsets) for the tour. In 2025, Tunisia saw 11,113,000 visitors. The Minister of Tourism has set a target of 12 million visitors for the current year.  The Colosseum of El Jem is the third-largest Colosseum in the Roman Empire, after Rome and Capua. Built at the end of the 1st century AD, it stands 32 meters high with five levels. Constructed using stones brought from mountains 13 miles away, built without cement or iron.  The site was a border between Roman territories and Berber tribes (Tis Druze). Gordianus I, a Roman representative, attempted to seize Berber land for free olive oil. After eight months of failed warfare, Gordianus I was killed by the Berber chief, Kuseila. Gordianus II eventually brought builders from Rome to complete the structure, promising better treatment than his father.

The Colosseum could hold 35,000 spectators on seats once covered in white Carrara marble. At its inauguration, 1,300 lions were sacrificed in a single week. It marked a shift in Roman history from human-vs-human combat to human-vs-animal fights.  Berber men, including the former leader Kuseila, were trapped and forced to fight lions. Survivors had a very slim chance (roughly 2-5%) of gaining Roman citizenship, often only after killing multiple animals. If a gladiator survived one lion, the Emperor often immediately released another to ensure the spectacle continued.  The site is protected by UNESCO; no stones can be moved without their permission. There is an ongoing cooperation between Tunisia and the United States (as of 2020) regarding the preservation of the Colosseum. The arena now hosts the Summer Festival of El Jem, featuring symphonic music at night. The underground tunnels where lions were kept are accessible via stairs, leading to a central walkway. The first and second floors are accessible via uneven, large stone staircases. Caution is advised due to the steep and irregular nature of the ancient steps.

After wandering through the ruins and dodging potential selfie-stick mishaps, you relaxed with some freshly squeezed orange juice at a local shop outside the gate while rounding up the rest of the party.  The group is marveling at the scale and history of the ancient amphitheater, noting its "original stone" and architectural grandeur. There is a sense of wonder standing at the top of the stairways, despite the physical effort required to climb and retrieve dropped items. Discussions arose regarding the historical significance of the site, including the disappearance of lions from North Africa and the legendary tales of Berber Kings and Roman power struggles. 

Photography is a central part of the experience, with members using selfie sticks and panoramic shots to document the "lovely" views. One member shared the joy of using Google Photos to assemble panoramas from multiple shots. Despite the height, the group found peace in the "nice little breeze" while resting in the upper seating areas.  The group reflected on other famous amphitheaters they have visited or heard of, including those in Verona, France, and along the Adriatic. There was creative speculation about whether the movie Gladiator was filmed on-site or created with computer backgrounds. Lighthearted and cynical jokes were made about the site's future, jokingly referring to it as a "Trump Coliseum" and discussing the importance of UNESCO's protection.

There was a playful, persistent effort to gather the whole group, specifically calling out for Christina and Catherine to join them for drinks. Observation of the local environment provided quiet entertainment, from watching a worker cut grass in the basement to seeing someone collect herbs in a sack. The group showed interest in local craftsmanship, specifically looking at mirrors and items with "Berber designs." They appreciated the authenticity of the materials, emphasizing that the stones were "original" and not plastic. Some members looked for specific items to bring back for loved ones, showing a thoughtful and caring connection to those at home.

During a group lunch in Tunisia,  your travel companions shared a lively meal featuring Mediterranean salads, fish, and lemon sorbet. The group discussed their visit to Roman ruins, comparing them to sites in Naples and Bath. The group shared experiences from their travels in Tunisia, Algeria, and Naples, highlighting the impressive scale of Roman structures.  They discussed the physical challenge of climbing the ruins, noting that while some reached the higher levels for the view, others preferred exploring the underground areas where the lions and gladiators were kept. 

The speakers reflected on the changing landscape of travel, noting how places like Iceland and Ethiopia have become "hot" destinations over the years. They compared the visitor numbers of famous parks, mentioning that Yosemite attracts millions of people annually.  The tone was consistently empathetic and playful, with plenty of "teasing" between friends that kept the mood light.  Despite the physical fatigue mentioned regarding climbing and walking, the group remained spirited and focused on making the most of their final days of the trip.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, May 8th, Kairouan, Tunisia.