Thursday, April 30, 2026

Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

We listened to an in-depth presentation on Tunisia's history as you traveled from Tunis. The guide detailed the destruction and rebuilding of Carthage by the Romans, the subsequent Vandal and Byzantine occupations, and the arrival of Islam in 670 AD.  A key distinction was made between a 'Muslim country' and an 'Islamic country' based on legal structures. The discussion concluded with insights into Phoenician maritime engineering in Carthage and how Tunisia aligns its weekend with Europe for economic reasons.

Roman Carthage and the Reconstruction

The Punics were a mixture of Berbers and Phoenicians who inhabited the region. Carthage remained a "ghost city" for a century following its destruction in 146 BC.  Julius Caesar ordered the rebuilding of Carthage in 46 BC as a smaller copy of Rome.  Buildings were constructed with the same decorations but at half the size.  This was intended as a message of humiliation to non-Romans.  Carthage served as the "Granary of Rome," feeding the empire while paying higher taxes than Romans in Italy.

Foreign Occupations and the Path to Independence

To gain independence from Rome, Carthaginians hired the Vandals as mercenaries. The Vandals subsequently occupied the area for 90 years, destroying cities and imposing heavy taxes. The Byzantines from Istanbul later liberated the area from the Vandals and ruled for two centuries. Subsequent waves of occupation included the Spanish, the Ottomans (for four centuries), and the French. The French protectorate lasted from 1881 to 1956. Post-independence, Tunisia shifted from a kingdom with 17 kings to a republic led by President Bourguiba.

Distinguishing Between Muslim and Islamic Countries

Tunisia is defined as a Muslim country rather than an Islamic country. In a Muslim country, the law and constitution are not derived directly from the Quran. An Islamic country uses laws based on human interpretations of the holy book. The lecturer noted that linguistic nuances in Arabic can drastically change the meaning of words. Historical interpretations by Sultans or Caliphs, such as the allowance of four wives, were often created to suit personal interests.

Punic Maritime Engineering and Heritage

Evidence links the Phoenicians of Carthage to Lebanon through artifacts, gods like Baalhamun, and stone inscriptions. The Phoenicians were master boat builders who created highly sophisticated ports.  A rectangular commercial harbor was dug 18 meters deep to hold 200 boats. A unique circular military harbor, the only one of its kind still existing, could hold 22 ships with three layers of rowers.

Modern Tunisian Economy and Schedule

Friday is the religious holy day for Muslims, but it is not the start of the weekend in Tunisia. The weekend is set as Saturday and Sunday to align with European markets. This choice facilitates trade, as most exports and imports involve European partners.  Maintaining a different weekend would leave only three days for active international business.

Arriving a the famous "Day in the Life" portion of our trip, we listened to the story of Jihad, a former mechanical engineer who quit his corporate job in 2012 to start a feeding farm in La Marsa, Tunisia. Inspired by the 2011 Revolution when neighbors had no food reserves, he dedicated himself to preserving Berber and Andalusian culinary heritage. Jihad shared the challenges of moving from the city to a barren olive grove, the struggle of starting from zero without a car, and his mission to teach others about sustainable farming and food preservation.

Cultural Heritage and Culinary Fusion

The speaker's heritage is a blend of Andalusian and Berber cultures, reflecting the demographic history of the region. This mix of cultures created a unique "Tunisian table" where ancestral know-how is combined to create traditional cuisine. The speaker emphasizes that this culinary heritage belongs to everyone in the region and needs to be preserved for future generations.

The Turning Point: 2011 Revolution

During the 2011 Tunisian Revolution, the speaker realized the vulnerability of food security when shops and restaurants closed. While neighbors had nothing to eat, the speaker’s family had a traditional granary that allowed them to distribute food to others. This moment of community support and local resilience sparked the joy and inspiration to create a "feeding farm."

Transition to Sustainable Farming

In 2012, the speaker chose to quit a career as a mechanical engineer to start a small farm from scratch. The project focuses on producing food that can last for three years without preservatives, using traditional techniques to manage environmental uncertainty like lack of rain. Despite the initial struggle and the difficulty of leaving city life, the farm has become a reality, evolving from a simple olive grove into a lush garden and an educational hub.

Overcoming Personal and Professional Challenges

The transition was a major life shift, involving the sale of a car and quitting a job just one week before his wedding. There was a significant emotional challenge in convincing his wife to move to a place that, at the time, looked like a "mess" with nothing but olive trees. The speaker reclaims the name "Jihad" in its true sense: a struggle to build something meaningful and protect cultural heritage.

Educational and Community Impact

The farm now serves as a model for "farm-to-table" dining and ecological education. Universities and schools visit the site to learn about microbiology, small-scale farming, and sustainable gardening. The business continues to expand as a family endeavor, with relatives managing different parts of the ancestral land to keep the tradition alive.

Jihad shared his deep connection to the land and his philosophy of sustainable agriculture. He explained traditional planting techniques, like the Carthaginian method for Mediterranean trees, and demonstrated how he uses companion planting with tomatoes and basil. He also discussed the financial freedom of avoiding bank loans to foster creativity in farming. The conversation moved through his home, touching on family history and Tunisian culture, before exploring the seasonal cycles of permaculture.

Agricultural Philosophy and the Carthaginian Method. The Carthaginian Method of Planting

A traditional Mediterranean technique involves digging a large hole filled with layers of compost, soil, branches, and rocks. Rocks are used to cover the tree, keeping soil fresh in summer and warm in winter. This structure prevents soil compaction from rain and allows water to infiltrate slowly, boosting growth in dry climates.

Natural Growth vs. Forced Growth

Observations on tree development show that a tree's canopy reflects the spread of its roots; if a tree remains small, its root system is struggling. Environmental factors like sun and rain can wound fruit, yet it remains edible and part of the natural cycle. 

Financial Freedom and Creative Integrity. Loans as a Trap for Creativity.

Jihad maintains a strict "no loan" policy, believing that debt kills creativity and independence. Relying on natural cycles in farming makes loans dangerous because agricultural output is random and dependent on nature, whereas bank payments are fixed. A philosophy of "earning before spending" is emphasized: only take a loan if it is a small fraction of what has already been earned.

Independence in Farming

You echoed Jihad's philosophy by explaining that your success in building low income housing in California was due to utilizing grants instead of loans.  The freedom not to have to pay fixed costs meant that you could respond to varying income from rental income.  Thus, you could respond to the need of the clients you housed, and not the needs of the banks.  

Permaculture and Seasonal Wisdom. The Philosophy of the Four Seasons.

The garden is divided into four sections to represent the four seasons and the stages of plant growth. A simple rule for seasonal eating: Winter: Eat roots (carrots, onions) as the plant stops growing above ground. Spring: Eat flowers (artichokes, strawberries). Summer: Eat fruits (tomatoes, peppers, pumpkins). Year-round: Leaves (lettuce, fennel) can be consumed throughout.

Crop Rotation and Soil Health

A four-year cycle is followed: seeds (fava beans) -> roots -> leaves -> fruit.🍉Fava beans are used as "workers" to provide nitrogen to the soil, preparing it for the next stage of the cycle. Permaculture is defined here as permanent agriculture without engines, focusing on soil oxygenation and natural insect management through herbs like rosemary.

Cultural Heritage and Daily Life. Traditional Tunisian Living.

Practical use of Tunisian house roofs for rainwater collection, stored in underground tankers for irrigation. Preservation of traditional tools, such as stone mills used for crushing wheat into semolina for couscous. The significance of the "sepseri" (white dress) in Tunisian culture as a symbol of modesty and tradition.

Herbal Reproduction.

Use of floating plates to root perennial basil, distinguishing it from common annual basil used in modern cooking. Strategic companion planting: growing basil with tomatoes to support the tomato vines and improve health.

The Spirit of the Farm. Communication with Nature. 

The farmer speaks of trees as living entities that offer guidance on how to save and maintain the farm. Transitioning from selling raw fruit to value-added products like specialized olive oil for guest tables and food baskets. Recognition of the high polyphenol content in Tunisian olives, which provides health benefits and preserves the oil longer.

During a delightful lunch featuring fava beans, harissa, and farm-raised chicken, we explored the rich historical connections between Tunisia and Spain. We learned how family names like Pedrocci often reflect the cities ancestors fled during the Inquisition, such as Seville or Granada. The conversation begins with a discussion of various dishes and ingredients being served. Fava beans (baba beans) and chickpeas prepared with olive oil, cumin, and harissa Sun-dried tomatoes, raisins, fennel, and farm-raised chicken. Lemon juice sourced from a family culture. A specific culinary practice is noted regarding peeling certain ingredients based on familial traditions.

Historical and Ancestral Connections

The participants discuss the deep historical ties between Tunisia, Spain, and Portugal. Family names often reflect the city of origin, such as Portuguese, Sevilla (Ishbili), and Granada (Garnati). Other surnames are derived from professions or specific spices, like coriander or turmeric. The connection to the Andalusian road is highlighted through the work of a Spanish ambassador and historical travelers. Comparisons are drawn between the landscape of Tunisia and the south of Spain, specifically the rivers and trees.

Religious and Cultural Syncretism

The discussion explores the history of the Moriscos and the complexities of identity during the Inquisition. Families who were "Christians by day and Muslims by night" to survive religious persecution. Mention of "crypto-Christians" or Jewish families who lost the memory of their origins but maintained specific rituals. This blending of identities is characterized by the phrase "God in my heart," used when outward appearances had to meet the expectations of observers. The group compares naming conventions across different regions. In Tunisia and Spain, names are tied to cities, origins, or religions (like the name Tarifa or Toledo). In contrast, Norwegian naming traditions often lacked last names until the 19th century. A participant shares how their family name was derived from a geographical feature on their farm, specifically a "black rock" at the entrance. 

You finalized the logistics for tomorrow's early departure, covering everything from luggage collection to breakfast times. Suitcases need to be outside rooms by 5:00 AM for collection, with breakfast starting at 4:30 AM. You reviewed the check-in process for the flight and confirmed a 4:30 AM wake-up call for everyone. There was also a mention of a surprise waiting once you reach Djerba, adding a touch of mystery to the upcoming journey. The hotel restaurant will open for a buffet breakfast starting at 04:30. Guests are expected to be in the reception area by 05:15 to show passports and confirm luggage. The bus departure from the hotel is scheduled for 05:30. 

Staff will collect the luggage and bring it to the reception area for tagging. Backpacks can be transported by staff if placed on top of the suitcases.  The flight is scheduled for takeoff at 07:00 with an arrival in Djerba at 08:00. Check-in will be handled as a group under the organizer's name for convenience. The organizer is planning a special surprise for the group upon arrival in Djerba. There is a warm, protective atmosphere as the organizer coordinates safety details with the driver. The conversation reflects a sense of excitement and organized care for the group's journey. 

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, April 30th, Tunis, Tunisia.


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