Tuesday, April 28th, Tunis, Tunisia

Greetings!

We explored the Bardo Museum in Tunisia, guided through its world-renowned collection of ancient mosaics. Our guide highlighted the Virgil mosaic, explaining its unique placement on a wall rather than a floor. You moved through the former king's palace, learning about its 1930s electrical history and the hidden architecture of a Roman bath within a palace mosaic. Finally, you admired the 'Neptune and the Four Seasons' masterpiece, where the guide explained the symbolic representations of size, divinity, and seasonal imagery.

The Mosaic of the Writer Virgil depicts Virgil with a paper in his left hand featuring Latin text: "Muses Cosas Mihime Moras" (Muse help me to remember). His eyes are fixed on a single point, deep in the process of creation. Accompanied by Clio (muse of literature) and Melpomen (muse of tragedy). Features incredible artistic detail, such as sheer fabric effects on dresses and specific lighting/shading from the left.

It is the masterpiece of the Bardo Museum, unique because it was found on a wall in Hadrumetum, whereas most mosaics were found on floors. The mosaic is entirely original and has never been repainted.

The Royal Bedrooms. Before 1956, polygamy was permitted, and the palace featured four rooms for the king's four wives.  The rooms are arranged around a courtyard; the king did not have his own bedroom but visited his wives on a rotating schedule.

The Bardo Museum is undergoing structural support for the rooftop, which was built in 1881. A major renovation is planned for January 2027 to address safety risks.

The Dining Room Discoveries. Recovery of Artifacts. Several statues and artifacts returned to Tunisia after being in Italy for 11 years. Local guides fought for their return, as the "cleaning" process was used as an excuse for the long absence. The ceiling decorations and colors date back to 1937.  The palace was the first building in Tunisia to have electricity (1936), evidenced by the installation of a grand chandelier.

A detailed mosaic shows the variety of maritime fauna in Roman Carthage, including various fish sizes and species. The "Visual Trap".  A complex mosaic that challenges viewers to identify a central building. Details in the corners (hunting ducks and picking olives) provide clues about the seasons. The Solution.  The building represents a palace hiding a public bath. Evidence includes steam rising from small domes (the hot room of the bath) and a large dome representing the palace itself. A palm tree is placed to indicate depth and objects behind the main structure. 

Neptune and the Four Seasons.  Symbolism of the Sea God. Neptune is depicted as a giant; the artist used a tiny dolphin in his hand to emphasize his massive scale. Behind his head, a moon symbol further indicates his divinity. The Four Seasons. Spring: Represented by a lady surrounded by flowers. Winter: Shown as a woman bundled in clothing, hunting ducks. Summer: A figure in light clothing, reflecting the heat. Fall: Depicted as a "drunk" lady with blue around her eyes, surrounded by grapes, signifying the harvest and celebration. Ulysses and the Mermaids. Island of the Sirens. Based on the legend of Ulysses (Odysseus) passing the island of Jerba.  Features sirens playing music to lure sailors. Recognized as the third major masterpiece within the Bardo Museum's collection.

We took a guided tour through the Medina of Tunis, learning about the historic abolition of slavery in 1846 by Ahmed Bey, who famously compensated slave owners with gold on the condition they became jewelry merchants. Our guide explained the intricate, traditional process of crafting the 'Shashia' (red felt hat) from sheep's wool. The tour concluded at a local market where the group navigated ordering a traditional Tunisian lunch, specifically focusing on Shakshuka and various sandwiches.

Abolition of Slavery in Tunisia. Historical context of January 23, 1846. Before this date, a slave market existed in the Medina of Tunis where people were bought from caravans. Ahmed Bey abolished slavery, facing pushback from shop owners who felt they were losing their financial investments.

Compensation and economic shift. The King offered to pay back the owners in gold rather than coins. This gold came with a condition: owners had to use it to create a new fortune through jewelry-making, rather than buying people. The guide notes this was a symbolic gesture giving Tunisian women a value "equal to gold.". Modern gold market regulations.  Shops in the Medina sell up to 18-carat gold, monitored closely by the Minister of Finance. Selling "fake gold" results in a lifetime ban for the shop.

The Tradition of the Sheshia. Manufacturing process of the red hat. The process begins after the Muslim sacrifice of sheep, using the animal's wool. Wool is cleaned in rivers and hand-processed by mothers in the Medina. The hats are shrunk from a large size to a small, soft fit through a 24-hour boiling process involving salt and fire. Cultural significance and styles. Red hats are for the Tunisian market, white for Algeria, and black for Libya. Traditionally, grandfathers bought them for grandsons to be worn "like a crown," teaching children to walk with pride and good posture. Today, women also wear them in various colors (like pink) to match traditional wedding outfits.

Local Culinary Experience. Authentic Tunisian dishes. Shakshuka: A red sauce cooked in olive oil with green peppers and eggs, often served with chicken or beef sausage. Brik (Fingers of Fatina): A fried pastry often filled with cheese and tuna. Kaskrut: A Tunisian sandwich often served with salad, mayonnaise, and sometimes fries. The group discussed ordering various versions of Shakshuka and sandwiches. The guide encouraged a light lunch in anticipation of a large traditional "welcome dinner" featuring couscous later in the evening.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, April 28th, Tunis, Tunisia