Saturday, May 9th, Sidi Bou Said, Tunisia

Greetings!

You listened to a guide share detailed stories about the Tunisian coastal city of Hammamet. The talk covered its etymology—linking its name to the Arabic word for death—and its transformation from a Roman settlement called Puput to a premier tourist hub. The guide discussed the extreme summer population surge, the intense heat, and the city’s vibrant nightlife featuring international DJs. You also learned about local military service, the high-end marina, and how regional instability and COVID-19 impacted the local hotel industry. 

 It was strategically built halfway between Carthage and Hadrumetum (modern-day Sousse) because the distance was too great to travel in a single day.  During the French colonial era, wealthy French citizens built villas with terraces and baths (Hammamat means "baths" in Arabic) overlooking the beach. During the low season (winter), the population is approximately 75,000. In the peak summer months (July and August), the population surges to 1.5 million people. Major markets include France, Russia, Italy, and English-speaking countries (UK, USA, Canada, Australia). Significant influx from neighboring Algeria, Libya, and Gulf countries.  Summer temperatures can reach 48°C (118°F). Humidity levels frequently hit 95%–100%, creating an intense heat index. 

The International Festival of Hammamet Held at a theater built by George Sebastian, the "illegal son" of a Romanian king. The venue has a capacity of 1,322 seats and has hosted global stars like Michael Jackson (1997).  Hammamet is the nightlife capital of Tunisia, featuring numerous nightclubs. Yasmine Hammamet has a marina developed around the year 2000.  The marina serves as a port for luxury boats and Mediterranean travelers. Casino entry is restricted to non-Tunisian citizens; a passport is required to prove foreign nationality for entry. Hotels are categorized by "Tunisian Standards," which may differ from international star ratings. The sector faced significant hardship due to the 2011 Revolution, 2015 terror attacks, and the COVID-19 pandemic, leading to some hotel closures and bank foreclosures. Hammamet houses the oldest military custom/base in Tunisia. Military service is mandatory for men at age 20, while it remains optional for women.

Our guide told the story about his deep roots in Hammamet and his grandfather's legacy. He shared how a founding landowner protected his land from hotel development by gifting it to the authorities to preserve the garden and theater. He pointed out his childhood home, situated right across from the first five-star hotel in the area, and credited his grandfather's hard work for securing a place for the family in what was once a cactus-filled landscape. 

A generous landowner donated his land to the local authorities for free rather than selling it to developers. This decision was made specifically to prevent the construction of hotels in his garden. The area is now preserved as a public site featuring a house and a theater for visitors to enjoy.  The speaker shares a deep connection to their neighborhood, pointing out the exact location where they were born. His grandfather is remembered with great pride for his foresight and hard work in securing land in a prime location. The family home stands in a modern neighborhood, marked by solar panels on the roof, directly opposite a five-star hotel. The speaker expresses a sense of joy and gratitude when looking back at the transformation of their childhood home. The area, once entirely covered in wild cactus, has been developed into a significant part of the community. There is a touching moment of connection as the speaker spots their father in the neighborhood during the tour.

Tomorrow, we'll be meeting with Fayel, a Tunisian activist, to discuss controversial topics in Tunisia  We'll visit the American Memorial Cemetery, visit Carthage,  and discuss the historical debunking of Gustave Flaubert’s descriptions of the site, visit the Punic ports (rectangular and circular harbors), and the Antonine Baths.  Our Farewell dinner is scheduled, and our guide will make arrangements for airport transfers from Sidi Bou Said.

Walking down the hill in the picturesque town of Sidi Bou Said,  the group learned of the City's namesake.  Sidi Bou Said moved from the Medina of Tunis to the hilltop to seek peace away from trivial religious inquiries. His home on the hilltop provided a strategic vantage point over the Gulf of Carthage. He served as a guardian by using a large tambourine to alert local villages when pirates were spotted approaching the coast.  The conversation highlighted the beauty of the surroundings despite the physical effort of the tour Participants admired the "pretty little town" and the unique architecture.  

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, May 9th, Sidi Bou Said, Tunisia.