Friday, June 9th, Saranda, Albania

Greetings!

For all of you who crave a challenge of imagination, try to guess where this land is.

"Butrint and its religious sanctuary lay in the territory of the Praisabes tribe, who were part of the Chaonians – one of the confederations of people who occupied the region of Epirus.

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At this time, the principal town in the region was Phoinke immediately to the north of Lake Butrint.  Phoinke played an important role in the rise of King Pyrrhus (318-272 BC), who invaded Roman lands in Italy.  His victories against the Romans were so costly, they ultimately led to his defeat and the phrase “Pyrrhic victory”.

Phoinke was later conquered by Teuta, Queen of the Illyrians, in circa 203 BC.  Subsequently, the Romans led by Aemilius Paulus, conquered Epirus in 167 BC, and enslaved much of its population."

Except for the reference to Pyrrhic victory, I would have sworn this was so full of strange placenames and people that it must have been out of a new video game.  Not true.  We visited Butrint, the most popular national park in Albania, and were amazed at yet another archeological resource on par with any we've seen.  Virgil and Dionysius both wrote about it as having been founded by survivors of the destruction of Troy. 

Throughout much of its ancient history, Butrint functioned as a religious center, dedicated to Aesclepius, god of healing.  Visitors would sleep within the precincts of the temple, hoping for a dream or vision, that would guide them to a cure for their ailments.  Priests and physicians performed rituals to interpret the dreams and supply the medicines prescribed.

Poor internet access last night prevented the posting of Thursday's photos, so to see our two-day travel down the Albanian riviera, click on:

Thursday, June 8th, Saranda, Albania

Friday, June 9th, Saranda, Albania

Wednesday, June 7th, Vlore, Albania

Greetings!

Albania is both one of the oldest and newest countries in the world.  Like a good family tree, it can trace it’s lineage at many archeological sites through many past civilizations to the oldest known gatherings of Neolithic peoples.  Every group you’ve heard of, and many you haven’t, have fought for territory and built structures here.

And also it reinvented itself about twenty-six years ago, proposing to model what it’s like to be uncorrupted, religiously-tolerant, democratic, self-reliant, all-inviting, and peaceful.  What is amazing is that they seem to be making good progress.

Over the last two days, we’ve heard and seen much, and asked a lot of tough questions.  All of our guides have lived through the changes in their country, and their enthusiasm for the future is catching.  Sure their childhoods were full of pretty horrible brain-washing, scarcity, and fear.  Then they endured years of chaos and anarchy.  But beginning about the time we were all frightened by planes and towers, they got serious about straightening out their country. 

Today, there is a generation in their thirties and forties who are committed to making their dreams come true.  Their parent’s brothers and sisters left the country when it got bad, emigrated to jobs all over Europe and North America, and sent lots of money home.  That money fueled the rebirth of Albania, and made the downpayment on a proper country.  For the past fifteen years, this generation has paid the price to live the dream.

--> Shortly after we return home on June 17^th, national parliamentary elections will be held.  Parties which are the equivalents of our Republicans (Democrats), Democrats (Socialists), and Bernies (Social movement for Integration) are competing, and the betting is that a coalition of the latter two will form a government. 
To see all of the photos taken over the past two days, click on:
Tuesday, June 6th, Berat, Albania
Wednesday, June 7th, Vlore, Albania

Monday, June 5th, Tirana, Albania

Greetings!

Today was a day full of Albanian history.  We headed north to Kruje, the former capital of the country, and strolled through the town's old bazaar.  Like most shopping areas in the regions small towns, one can find some local products among the many imported materials.  We're trying not to add to the weight of our suitcases, or bring home anything that will break in transit.

Just up the hill is a trio of interesting sites.  First, we saw a Bektashi Mosque and lodge, a Sufi dervish order mainly found in Anatolia and the Balkans from the 14th to 16th centuries.  In 1826, it was banned in the Ottoman Empire, and its leadership moved to Albania.  It had a considerable impact on the islamization of Albania.  But after the communists took power in 1945, several babas and dervishes were executed.  Ultimately in 1967, Enver Hoxha banned religious practice in Albania, declaring the country "atheist".

Kruge castle sits a few hundred yards from the Bektashi mosque, and was the site of the twenty-year seige (1444-1467) by the Ottomans in which the country's national hero (Georgi Castriot Skanderbeg) defended the castle.  A museum has been built on the castle grounds which is dedicated to Skanderbeg, and displays everything ever made in his honor.

Finally, we visited the Toptani family home near the castle, and understood better how powerful ex-Roman Generals families could become.  The two-story house very well displays the possessions and furniture, tools and weapons, art and family treasures acquired over centuries of power.

Back in Tirana, we were guided on a city tour which included the Et ham Bey Mosque, the Resurrection Cathedral, the Memorial to Communist Isolation and Mother Teresa Square.

To see all of the photos taken today, cick on Monday, June 5th, Tirana, Albania.

  

Sunday, June 4th, Tirana, Albania

Greetings!

An all-day drive from Dubrovnik in Croatia through Montenegro to Tirana, Albania consumed Sunday, June 3^rd.  Bosco, a delightful driver and jack-of-all trades, went completely beyond the call of duty in getting us through two border crossings during the first day of local vacations, and a city (Tirana) devoid of any signage and pretty poor drivers.

Since our group is now down to the two of us, we began to miss the wonderful people we’ve been with for the last five weeks.  What perfect partners we’ve had on this adventure!  Mostly American (three Canadian), and very progressive, they all shared our passion for learning and were eager to work as a team to discover the most from each day’s experiences.  Combined with great tour guides, local guides, and drivers, we couldn’t have gotten a nicer group of travelers.

When we finally checked into the Tirana International Hotel, we received a voucher for dinner at the hotel, and a note that we’d meet our new tour guide the next morning at 9am.  At dinner, we ran into and invited to dinner the two other travelers who are joining us for this fourth leg of our journey in this part of the world.  An Art history teach from Los Angeles, and an avid archeologist and veteran Adventures Abroad participant from New York City.   Boy, are we going to have fun.

No other photos taken today.

Saturday, June 3rd, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Greetings!

Imagine the coast of Santa Barbara north of Los Angeles, with only rocky beaches, but warm water.  Throw in the climate of San Diego, the crowds of Santa Monica, and the hotels of Miami Beach.  That describes the playground that attracts everyone within a few hours of here.  That's most of Europe and the Middle East, and doesn't seem to deter those from further away.

Today, we sat in the Old Town of Dubrovnik (pronounced by the way on the first syllable, without the "v"), and marveled at the great number of languages we heard, ages we saw, and cultures which had occupied the town over the past 2,500 years.  While the Italians and Slavs still make up the majority of residents and visitors, present-day explorers from Asia, northern Europe, and North America are increasing.

The town's walls are one of the highest in Europe, and were never pierced.  In fact, no one tried.  Only earthquakes in 1667 and 1979, and the War from 1991-1995, have damaged the town.  Several in ur group chose to walk around the entire wall (2.5 kilometers) for a unique view.  Pat and I deferred, choosing to explore more than our guide, Ivanka, showed us.  Game of Thrones fans, are you jealous?

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, June 3rd, Dubrovnik, Croatia.

Friday, June 2nd, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Greetings!

After breakfast, we drove to Boka Kotorska in Montenegro, the only fjord in the Mediterranean.  It actually is a river canyon, cut deep into the limestone cliffs in the area.  At the town of Perast along its coastline, we boarded a tour boat and visited Our Lady of the Rocks, a church on a man-made island created by the town over 200 years.  The church is dedicated to Mary, who protected mariners, and was idolized by those living in the bay.

Sanja, our tour guide, led us around the perimeter of the bay to the towns of Risan and Kotor.  Risan was an Illyrian stronghold in the 5th century BC, where its Queen Teuta held off the Slavs.  In Kotor, Sanja led us on a city tour, which included a cathedral and a maritime museum.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, June 2nd, Dubrovnik, Croatia.

Thursday, June 1st, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Greetings!

Jasmina, our guide today, took us through the city she grew up in.  She described a childhood that no one should have endured.  At seven, she and her family began to endure the War in Bosnia.  Mostar is a town which did not suffer the worst of the war.  You all know that war from the last year of it watching snipers shoot pedestrians in Sarajevo. But children in Mostar, like Jasmina, hid from the terror of war for five years.  And today, she took us for a walk through her city.

One of the most famous destructions in Mostar is the Old Bridge (Stari Most).  Built by the Ottoman Sultan (Suleiman the Magnificent) in 1566, it was bombed in November of 1993.  Jasmina led us through the tunnels that were used while the bridge was being rebuilt after the war ended.

We've had many local tour guides, but few integrated her own storyline as well as Jasmina.  I think we understand her town better because of it, and we hope that she someday gets to regain her childhood joys.

Leaving Mostar, we crossed three passport checkpoints to get to Dubronik, Croatia, where we'll be staying for the next three days.  Tomorrow, we head to Montenegro for a day trip, and then back here for some final exploring before this group breaks up, and Pat and I head on wth a guide for two more weeks in the former Republic of Macedonia and Albania.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, June 1st, Dubrovnik, Croatia