Monday, September 16, 2019

Monday, Sept 16th, Rabat, Morocco

Greetings!

Today last day in Tanger was a difficult day to capture photos for a blog.  After breakfast, we had two hours to wander on our own through the area around our hotel before we were to board a larger bus to drive to the train station.  We chose to visit the building which served for a long time as he home of the American delegation (like an embassy), and then to a building which previously was a synagogue, and is now a museum of Moroccan history.

The walk to each covered streets and alleyways which were no different from those you'v seen plenty of in previous posts.  The insides of each contained walls and glass cases displaying documents and photos which are very difficult to make interesting within a post.

But there was a street sign nearby which sparked my interest, but which I failed to photograph.  It said "9 April 1947".  I asked our guide, Zak, what had happened on that date to warrant a street named after it.  I knew that other countries honored revolution dates in that way.

Here's the story, and how it relates to where we visited today.  During WWII in January of 1943, President Roosevelt invited Sultan Mohammed V to a dinner at a conference in Casablanca with he and Winston Churchill.  Most historians agree that this offer was Roosevelt's effort to indicate that the U.S. favored independence for Morocco.  Mohammed V never forgot that support.  After the war ended, on the second anniversary of Roosevelt's death, the U.S. Aircraft Carrier Franklin D. Roosevelt was undergoing maneuvers off Morocco's coast.  On April 9, 1947, Mohammed V visited the American Delegation building, and delivered a powerful speech thanking Roosevelt.  He reminded the world that Morocco was the first to recognize America when it's independence was proclaimed.  Nine years later, Morocco became an independent country.

The rest of the day, Morocco's new Super Train (fastest in Africa) took us to Rabat.  Most of us had been on faster trains, but we were relieved at the speed and quiet (now if we can just get the screaming kid to be quiet).  Once driven to our hotel, the Pre-Trip segment of our journey ended, we gained four more members, and we began the main segment of our Moroccan adventure with a welcome dinner.



 

Sunday, September 15, 2019

Sunday, Sept 15th, Tanger, Morocco

Greetings!

You may have noticed that the spelling for this city in the title is different.  I'm including the spelling that Morocco uses, and is on all signs in and out of the City.  It's believed the British got it wrong long ago.  Sheep are sold along the roads here, and Zak introduced us to some dealers and explained his experience in slaughtering them for special occasions.

We drove to this parking lot to meet and talk with some high school students who were planning on getting through the border of Morocco and Ceuta (a Spanish city on the northeastern tip of Africa).  They spoke of their frustration with their future in Morocco, and said they had friends who had established better ives in Spain.  Zak gave them some money from us, and we wished them luck.



We've been to the southern-most tip of Africa, and now the northernwestern-most (Cape Spartel), and heard our local guide (Mohammed) about the movement of the ocean and sea through the Straits of Gibralter.  Most agreed he looked and sounded like Jeff Goldblum.




We next traveled south to the Caves of Hercules, where, depending on whether you look at it from the sea or inside the cave, it either looks like a map of Africa, or a screaming head.  Also, cuttings were made from the walls to create stone wheels for grinding wheat.

And on October 23, 1995, Def Leppard played a concert here, in London, and in Vancouver on the same day (a Guinness Book World Record).
Later in the afternoon, Mohammed led us through Tanger's medina (old city), through more winding streets and alleyways, to an overlook of the marina and Atlantic.  Included were his favorite locations for popular film scenes, and tips on upcoming movie shoots taking place in the medina.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on: Sunday, Sept 15th, Tanger, Morocco.


Saturday, September 14, 2019

Saturday, Sept 14th, Chefchaouen, Morocco

Greetings!

Today, we met Solomon, one of the last eight remaining Jews in Tetouan, Morocco.  Were it not Saturday, he would have let us see the last remaining synagogue.  Once home to thousands of Andalusian and Sephardic Jews, Tetouan supported 17 synagogues in its UNESCO World Heritage site.

Much earlier, Mauretanian Berbers and Phoenician traders occupied the city from the 3rd Century BC, and were augmented by refugees from Spain during the Reconquista prior to 1492.


More recently, the city and its surrounding area is undergoing changes.  Buildings the are being renovated, and the Jewish quarter is being restored.  Tetouan's many protectorate colonies have left their individual marks, but what remains is a rich tapestry of tolerance and shared adaptation. 

On the way back to Chefchaouan, we stopped by a cannabis farm surrounded by corn a couple of feet higher just off the highway.  Seventy percent of Europe's hashish is grown in Morocco, and the country is discussing paths to legalization for at least medicinal uses.




To see all of the photos taken today, click on: Saturday, Sept 14th, Chefchaouen.

Friday, September 13, 2019

Friday, Sept 13th, Chefchaouen, Morocco

Greetings!

More than the Berbers of Northern Morocco ever wanted, they've been protected by foreign powers.  First, the Phoenicians, then the Carthaginians, next the Romans (1st Century BC)  and the Vandals (5th Century AD), and finally the Byzantines (6th Century AD). Invaded, protected, invaded, protected, abandoned, invaded, protected.  They survived them all, and are the basic ethnic group today throughout this area.

We strolled around Chefchaouen this morning, with Zak leading us through the maze of alleys and stairways.  Never seen so much blue.  Cats stretched awake, and children darted around us as we walked up and down the smooth cobblestone streets.  Above the town, we found a spring which provides hydroelectric power to some of the mosques, and opens to a causeway where women wash large rugs and dry them on the roofs of the wash houses.

We drove out to the countryside to the village of Houmar where a rural family let us join them in preparing a couscous platter surrounded by lots of very personal questions.  They were open and generous in responding to our interest in their lives, and their perspectives on the issues facing Morocco. 

Returning to Chefchaouen, we toured the Casbah (fort) which has been used to guard the town since 1471AD. After a short nap, we participated in a discussion on the status of women in Morocco given by a local activist. 

Finally, we had dinner at the Aladdin Cafe, a few blocks from our riad.  Competing with our previous night's elevation above the town, and the highest quality meal, we also were treated to a bird's eye view of a mountain fire across the valley and spectacular blaze flames rizing into the evening sky.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, Sept 13th, Chefchoauen, Morocco.

Thursday, September 12, 2019

Thursday, Sept 12th, Chefchaouen, Morocco


Greetings!

Morning departure on a travel day means getting your bags out in front of your room by 8am, having a variable buffet (with an omlete chef and table service for drinks) breakfast by 8:30, and boarding a bus at 9am.  Depending on how much gear we unpacked the night before, it means making sure that we haven't left any electronic adapters or cables behind, and that the clothes and bathroom supplies are packet.  I inevitably leave my shampoo in the shower.

Zack is one of the youngest guides at Overseas Adventure Travel, with seven of their tours on his resume.  His enthusiasm for learning, his attention to detail, and exceptional sense of humor, make him perfect for the tasks.  We are enjoying him immensely, and feel comfortable we are in good hands.

We're surrounded once again with seasoned travelers, and are enjoying the fruits of many adventures between them.  Most have chosen OAT in the past, and it''s been interesting hearing about their experiences with the company.

Except for a stop at an entertaining barbecue restaurant, our drive north and east from Casablanca was a long educational talk helping us with basic communication and Morocco 101.  Late afternoon found most of us asleep while we passed through a series of towns named after the day they hosted community markets. 

I've been looking for birds, and only finding snowy egrets and some stork nests.  The photo I took long ago in Spain titled "Cranes in Spain" featuring stork nests on the tops of building cranes were probably related to those here.


Our final stop (Chefchaouen) is a beautiful town, full of blue buildings and a fort built in 1471 to defend the area south of here against the Portuguese and their colonial ambitions.  For a Berber tribal community, whose future protection depended on Spain, France, and the      Arab world, Chefchaouen seems like a place to spend the night and take stock of the country.

To see more photos taken today, click on Thursday, Sept 12th, Chefchaouen, Morocco.

Wednesday, Sept 11th, Casablanca, Morocco

Greetings!

Arrival day is pretty predictable.  Getting to the airport, getting to the hotel orientation, and dinner.  Waiting in the flight lounge in Paris for our flight to Casablanca, we found a couple of our travelers, and several more when we passed through customs in the Casablanca Airport, and waited for our guide at the exit.  Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) has at least two separate groups of travelers departing here at the same time, and we encountered some confusion determining who was with each group.

Using the ATM, bathroom, and scouting out someone with an OAT sign, we finally boarded a bus and began the process of telling our stories of who we are, and how we got here.  Four couples, two from Seattle, and one from Virginia,  All our age, all serious travelers, experienced OAT veterans. 

Checking into Le Casablanca Hotel, Zak answered our questions and briefed us on the evening.  Once given complimentary drinks and keys, we had an hour before a walk through the neighborhood. 

Our walk included the locations of the best restaurants and the most upscale grocery to scope out the local wine, water, and beer.  Some of the restaurants and hotel locations will serve alcohol, some not.  Better to be prepared. 

As we walk, all continue the story-telling and exotic location adventure descriptions,  Our story always includes some background on our family histories, wine history, careers, and Santa Rosa/Sonoma County. 

After returning to the hotel, we make reservations at the restaurant, and meet up for dinner.  Zack provides more information on the trip, the cleanliness of the water, and the breakfast, baggage collection, and departure time for tomorrow. 

Here's a link to a  couple more photos taken today (Wednesday, Sep 11th, Casablanca, Morocco)

Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Tuesday, September 10th, Charles DeGaulle Airport, Paris, France

Greetings!

My young cousin's wedding in Pennsylvania was perfect.  Inexpensive (tacos and pizza, with a Cinnabon cake and cupcakes), full of family (but the Fearons were overwhelmed by his bride's side), and in the second floor of a small main street bar in a great Penn State University town (Lewisburg).  This is where the 2020 Presidential campaign will likely play out.

Our visit with my aunt Kitty (really my older sister during my first five years), was also perfect.  Four years older than me, she lives in her oldest son's Hudson two-story 100-year old fixer-upper, overdue to be fixed up but scheduled soon.  Still volunteering at her favorite bookstore/bar (the Spotty Dog), she updated us with the lives of her sons and their families, and w5 m de questioned and listened for all the clues into how her life was going.  A fall she took into a fire hydrant in front of her hue, and one she took while we visited the Thomas Cole House above the river, causes concern.   Her sons and I are still working out our joint responsibilities for her, and I expect the conversations to need to be not put off much longer.

The last four days in New York included meals and visits with both sons and their families.  I'm really proud that both are active parents, as their wives are working hard on their careers and it's so exciting to see the history of poor fathering in our family changing with them.

We also had time to attend the U.S. Open Tennis Tournament on the finals weekend, watching the expected favorites either get beat (Serena Williams) or scared pretty badly (Rafa Nadal).  There were also lots of other tennis to watch as the boys, girls, doubles, and wheelchair finals were being held during the days on the outer courts.  Amazingly, the World Surfing League Longboard Championships were held this weekend on Long Island,  and we made it to that too.

Altogether, this last ten days has included everything I had hoped it could, and went extremely well.  Even the driving through Manhattan during rush hour twice couldn't diminish our spirits.

At this moment, we're sitting in the Paris Airport at 10am after a six-hour flight from JFK.   In a couple of hours, we fly to Casablanca where we'll check into our hotel, get some real rest, and await the tour group's initial dinner and orientation.  I chose not to take photos up until now, but that will change tomorrow.  Here's a link to the basic city daily itinerary.  I'll fill in the details in a few days.

Gregory