Thursday, Mar 14th, Whanganui, New Zealand

Greetings!

There are only two rivers in the world with full legal person status.  Both are on the North Island of New Zealand, and we drove about half the length of one of them today.  Beginning on the northern slopes of Mount Tongariro (which we visited last week), the Whanganui River is New Zealand's third longest river.

But it is its central identity in Maori myths and folklore, and its location in the home of most of the Maori in pre-European times, which gives it its special treasure status. Finalizing 140 years of negotiations in March of 2017, a first in the world settlement was reached in the New Zealand Parliament which entitled the river to an identity "with all the rights, duties, and liabilities of a legal person".

The narrow road following the river is not an easy drive, and many choose to hike or bike it.  Our right-side steering skills were tested severely, especially when sheep-hauling and logging trucks came barreling around the tight corners.  Fortunately, there are historic sites in pull-offs that allow pacing and regaining your nerve.  One flour mill we stopped at reminded us of a similar one in Scotland.

To see the few other photos we took today, click on: Thursday, Mar 14th, Whanganui, New Zealand.

Wednesday, Mar 13th, Island Bay, New Zealand

Greetings!

Some days just don't go as well as you planned.  Yesterday was almost one of those.  Today definitely was.  It's hard for a travel writer, like me.  And Pat points out, "You're often too upbeat".  I do emphasize the highlights, and she reminds me that readers also want the low points.

So let's do a revision of yesterday.  First, the botanical garden was a long walk through an unspectacular venue.  Other than helping me identify from one balcony about eight different common NZ trees (mostly introduced), I could have skipped it.  With Pat's dependency on her walking stick, we need better results.  Secondly, one and a half floors of Te Papa were worth going back to get more from, but the rest was too little, and a lot of wasted empty space.  Sorry Seddon, probably not what made you proud.

Today, we spent a large part of the day driving in the hills and the coast of this tip of the South Island.  Last night, I used Google Earth, Maps, and Street Trek to plan long drives to a coastal lighthouse (the only one to ever have a female lighthouse keeper), and over two mountain roads to isolated valleys and small towns.

We almost made it to the lighthouse (road was washed out a half mile from it).  We got lost coming back from it, and inadvertently drove out one of the mountain roads we had not intended to reach.  I don't think I'll forget the puzzlement on the face of the school teacher, when she realized that we had driven sixty miles the wrong way to her community, and sweetly advised me to turn around and go back.

A couple of ice cream bars from a supermarket we found in the town we had hoped we were originally headed toward - partially brightened our day.  As did the pizza we ordered from Hell Pizza here in Island Bay.  Can't say as much for the 2016 Villa Maria Syrah we picked up on the way home. 

To see the remaining few photos we took today, click on: Wednesday, Mar 13th, Island Bay, New Zealand.

Tuesday, Mar 12th, Island Bay, New Zealand

Greetings!

Riding the #1 bus to downtown Wellington, we found the stop where we could ride the cable car up to the Cty's Botanical  Garden.  They really have packed quite a lot into the 26 hectare hillside, including a huge rose garden, begonia house, and duck pond.  Despite the great old cable car saving us the walk up,  it was a strenuous morning.  But the layout, signage, and variety of unique presentation areas made it worth it.

Not far from the exit is the Beehive and Parliament House.  We signed up for the 1pm tour, and hung out in the visitor's lounge.  After storing everything that could be thrown at the Parliamentary members (and when you witness their daily question period, you'll see why throwing things really does make sense), we walked through the halls of the New Zealand government.  It seems that the country packs a lot into its proportional-voting, one-house legislative-executive combination, and does it with ample transparency.  Loved the dialogue.

Finally, making our way along the waterfront, we checked into the very famous Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa).  The outside is not even worth photographing, and cameras are prohibited inside.  A good friend of Pat's was the director of the museum until his death a few years ago, so we absolutely needed to spend time here.  The five-story set of galleries is great, but has almost too much to absorb in one afternoon.  We stayed until closing time, and may come back tomorrow if we have time.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Tuesday, Mar 12th, Island Bay, New Zealand.

Monday, Mar 11th, Island Bay, New Zealand

Greetings!

One of the joys of travel today is that you often get to stay in some of the finest homes around.  Casa Felina is another one of them, and it's meeting all of our expectations.  Darlene and Joe Natoli have developed a portion of Joe's mother's original house into a beautiful set of rooms which support our exploration of this community.  Island Bay is a gorgeous coastal community snuggled into hillsides overlooking an old fishing village at the southern tip of New Zealand's North Island.  A metro bus line away from Wellington, we'll spend three days starting our last week in the country exploring its capital city.   Visits to its government, museums, and botanical gardens will of course be on the itinerary.  But so will trying to get to know the communities like Island Bay.

To see more photos of our current home, click on: Monday, Mar 11th, Island Bay, New Zealand. 

Sunday, Mar 10th, Palmerston North, New Zealand

Greetings!

If you had asked me if today we would witness attempts at the egg-throwing and catching world record, I would probably have thought for just a minute, and then said not probably.  I mean this is New Zealand.  But sure enough, Palmerston North hosted the Rural Games today in the Town Park.  Championship cow-milking also was held, with a cow machine built for competition.  Fifty-five meters was the winning throw (by the world champs),  who also tried and failed to best last year's world record of 93 meters.

But the day started out very differently, and also not so predictably.  My cousin, Norm Miller, will be pleased to learn that 232 Norwegian farmers arrived in 1872, and founded the town of Norsewood.  The town had a celebration today next door to NZ Natural Clothing as a fundraiser for the Wop-Wop Wildlife Park (complete with fresh-water eels).  Though the names of the first passengers are prominently listed in posters, monuments, and books being sold, I couldn't find any closely-connected relatives of ours.  It is hard, though, because Larsens and Olsens are in every Norwegian's family trees.

Norsewood is a great little town, and not just because it's full of Norwegians.  It also has the best hot chocolate I've ever had.  Do stop into the Cafe Norsewood on Main Street, just down from the Museum. 

To see the rest of the photos taken today (especially the egg-throwing an catching), click on: Sunday, Mar 10th, Palmerston North, New Zealand.

Saturday, Mar 9th, Napier, New Zealand

Greetings!

We woke up this morning with no idea where we were going to spend the day.  We knew there was a Cape with some peaks and a couple of roads southeast of us.  A colony of gannets roost on the far end of the cape.  Google Maps said one road led to Ocean Beach, and another across a small bridge to the top of the highest peak.  the roads haven't been too bad lately, why not?

The road to the cape was indeed closed, as some hikers were injured trying  to get too close to the gannets, and the town took some precautions while it made sure it was safe.

The road over the hill to the beach, and then up to the peak, was one of the most beautiful we've driven.  Of course, we never stopped to take pictures, so you'll have to take our word for it.  We did stop near the top because the Triple Peaks Fundraiser for the Te Mata Park Trust was today.  Seven-hundred participants ran, walked, or mountain-biked for 55 kilometers over three craggy coastal peaks on a beautiful day.

Before returning home,we visited the National Aquarium of New Zealand to see the afternoon feeding of their many rescued tiny penguins.  All but two are being cared for because injuries prevent them from surviving in the wild.  Their feed (pilchard or "Cornish sardines") is brought in from Europe, and one penguin has reached the age of 19 (twice as old as usual).  Not a bad life at all.

To see the rest of the photos taken today, click on: Saturday, Mar 9th, Napier, New Zealand.

Friday, Mar 8th, Napier, New Zealand

Greetings!

Shortly after cleaning up the breakfast dishes, Susan Gibson felt the ground under her old Bluff Hill Victorian home begin to move around under her feet.  For two minutes, she struggled to make her way to the front door by bracing herself against the undulating walls.  By the time she got outside, she could see the town below had flattened, and smoke was rising from Hastings Street.  In the distance, she could see water rushing over the seawall into the Pacific.  When it was over, her town rose over two meters, and 2230 hectares of lagoon disappeared in the Feb 3rd, 1931 earthquake.

Napier was rebuilt during the mid-1930's, when Art Deco was the fashion.  Today, the town has one of the finest collections of Art Deco buildings in the world.  Our guide, Denise, treated us to a very detailed tour of the results of that rebuild.  A life-long resident of the town, she was able to provide the stories of the successive owners, and the many lives of each building.  We entered several of them, and were able to imagine life during the wars in this south Pacific isle.

She also paid great attention to our safety, as she led the group in and around the streets of Napier.  One of New Zealand's best characteristics isn't that pedestrians have the right of way, and she made sure we watched for cars as we listened.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on:
Friday, Mar 8th, Napier, New Zealand.