Thursday, May 2nd, Larnaca, Cyprus

Greetings!

On our last full day in Cyprus, we decided to take the car east of Larnaca to the southeastern tip of the island (and of Europe) to where frequently it's necessary to use dune buggies and four-wheel drive vehicles.  We were not disappointed with the ocean views, the pearly white sands, and the rugged cliffs dropping into some of the bluest and clearest water I've seen.  

It wasn't surprising that the town of Ayia Napa has attracted a couple of high-rise buildings, and several resorts on the beachfronts.  Nearby one of them is a burial tomb site, constructed in Roman times with a dozen deep caves carved into the limestone rock.  Yea, if I was a rich Roman merchant, I'd want my last days and beyond to be yards from these beaches.  Rivals anything Malibu has to offer.

But the absolute topper for the day, as anyone following this blog will guess, is the Thalassa Municipal Museum.  It was founded and directed by the Pierides Foundation, the same family which brought the two Cyprus Museums in Larnaca and Nicosia (also Athens).  This is the first museum of its kind across the Mediterranean region to present the impact and significance of the sea upon the history of the island.  The museum incorporates seven levels within a three-story building made of marble, onyx, wood, metal, and other unique experiences appealing to all of our senses with its birds eye view.

Its paleontological, geological, archeological marine-life exhibits are presented in underground showcases, where visitors are able to walk and view from the all perspectives.  Pat and I found the descriptions in the cases some of the best explanations of the many important time periods which frame the last six thousand years of area history.  Definitely worth the trip out to this coast.

Tomorrow, we fly to Malta, to join a tour with five others hosted by a company from San Rafael in Northern California.  We'll be staying in a single hotel, and taking day-trips all over the island.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Thursday, May 2nd, Larnaca, Cyprus.

  

 

Wednesday, May 1st, Larnaca, Cyprus

Greetings!

Today was an international holiday, and I wish I could say that was the reason for a sparse travel day.  The truth is that we began early in the morning on our drive from Nicosio to Larnaca, and arrived around 11am.  Our hotel was willing to let us park in their lot, and provided a good buffet brunch.  Check-in time was still 2pm, so we walked from there down to the shorefront, and along the beach for a mile or two.  

The Viking cruise ship we spotted when we first arrived in the country three weeks ago was still there.  Pat's skill with AI has improved, and we learned that the ship is still being built, and won't be put into service for another year or two.  

Further down the beach, we encountered the mosque we had seen on our first visit.  Once again closed, we were disapointed to only see its beautiful outside.  

We were able to spend an hour inside the Church of Saint Lazuras.  Watching the many entrants honor their faith with ritual candles, prayers, and elaborate remonstrations was informative.  Pat provided me with some insights into what we were seeing from her Catholic background.

Returning to our hotel to check-in, we decided our need to visit Larnaca was almost complete.  Two days at the beginning of our trip, and a day planned for tomorrow to see something other than ruins was enough.  The rest of today was spent reading in our room, and watching "Springtime for Hitler" and "Rock of Ages" on television.  

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Wednesday, May 1st, Larnaca, Cyprus.

Tuesday, April 30th, Nicosia, Cyprus

Greetings!

The Cyprus Museum in Nicosia has one of the most extensive and impressive collection of Neolithic, Chalcolithic, Early-Middle-Late Bronze Age, Iron Age, Helenistic, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman archeological materials.  Pat and I spent two hours this morning, avoiding tourist groups and trying to listen to an audio guide in quieter corners.  We were amazed at the life-like figurines, incredibly useful tools, and artistic skill displayed by the objects presented.  Most photographed were at least 3,000 years old.

Demonstrating influences from all over the eastern Mediterranean for almost three thousand years, it is clear that Cyprus became a center of commerce and cultural interconnections.  Room after room we visited contained glass cases showcasing more and more treasures (with description, location, and period produced).  The audio guide added important insights into sources of materials and perspectives on scenes displayed or techniques used.

Exhausted, we returned to our apartment for lunch and battery charging (both us and our equipment). 

To see all of the many photos taken today, click on Tuesday, April 30th, Nicosio, Cyprus.

Monday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus

Greetings!

Our walk through the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus went well today.  Not far away from our apartment, our passports were scanned at both the southern and northern edges of the Green Zone.  Plenty of tourists were exploring the narrow streets and shops which dot the two mile square area.  Unfortunately, every museum and mosque were also as closed as those in the south, and seemed to be using this time to undergo remodeling.

The Buyuk Han, one of Cyprus largest and best-preserved caravansarai which now houses craft artisans reminded us of those in Samarkand, Uzbekistan along the original Silk Road.  The ground floor has a mescit (islamic prayer room) balanced on six pillars over a fountain, in the middle of what once were stables for horses and camels.  Upstairs are rooms where merchants were housed much like we are currently.  This design is rare, and found only in two others in central Turkey.

We also got to visit the Tas Eserler Muzesi (lapidary Museum), exhibiting stonework including a varied collection of medieval era examples of column capitals, stelae, and a gothic window rescued from the Lusignan Palace that once stood near Ataturk Meydan.  As Pat continues to be annoyed at my mention, there is a connection to my ancestors here.  Guy of Lusignan purchased Cyprus from my 22nd great granduncle (Richard the Lion-hearted), who used the funds to pay for the Third Crusade to take back Jerusalem from Saladin. Earlier, traveling himself to Jerusalem, and becoming temporarily King of Jerusalem by marrying Queen Sybilla in 1186, Guy lost the Battle of Hattin, and was captured by Saladin and released a few years later. 

As I told Pat, like in quite a few of these buildings,  a slight variation of the coat of arms of my family prominently proclaims a connection to our lineage.  A rampant lion, the symbol of the Plantagenet monarchy, is an embarrassment in this case to all who acknowledge a family connection.  Saladin should have killed the asshole for his direction of Renaud de Chatillon, and his many military infidelities.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Monday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus.    

 

Sunday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus

Greetings!

Today (in the Eastern Gregorian Calendar) was Palm Sunday in Cyprus.  Just before we left the village of Arsos, we watched the town commemorate Christ's entry into Jerusalem.

We drove northeast through the rest of the Troodos Mountains to Nicosia, capital of the country.  For those unaware, Cyprus is divided by an illegal occupation by Turkey of the northern areas controlled by the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.  Our route stayed just south of the Green Line, named after the color of the pen used to define the separation in the agreement reached in 1964.

I wish I could say that our entry into Nicosia was a pleasant one.  Our apartment hosts (and most in Europe) assumed that we understand the use of WhatsApp, and that we could retrieve and utilize the room access instructions.  All afternoon, we struggled to gain the key and code to open up the apartment door.  It was the most frustrating apartment access we have ever had.   You would think that a simple email with instructions would be the procedure.  Not here.  Or a phone number one could call.  Since we have a European Holafly Esim, including a phone number we could call has been the usual process.  Not here.  We finally got the agency which handles the apartment to include our number in their WhatsApp contacts, after which their video explaining (barely) a very elaborate drop box and power switch process.  Whew.  All we could do when we finally obtained entry was to fall into the bed exhausted and frustrated.

To see the two other photos of the Palm Sunday procession in Arsos, click on Sunday, April 28th, Nicosia, Cyprus.  And we hope your Sunday was better than ours.

Saturday, April 27th, Arso, Cyprus

Greetings!

After breakfast at the hotel, we drove to the Nea Paphos district of the city, and walked the Paphos Archeological Park,   The park is filled with large houses (the house of Thesus is 120 meters by 80 meters) with mosaic floors which are detailed and colorful, depicting mythical scenes.  The work excavating the site began in 1965, and continues today by Polish universities in Warsaw and Krakow. 

Though some sections of houses are covered, the majority are open with walkways rising above the rooms to better observe the floors.  

Begun by Nicocles in the 4th century BC,  the building accelerated 150 years later when the Ptolomies moved the capital of Cyprus from Salamis to Paphos.   For six hundred years, additions reflected late Helenistic and then Roman architectural and thematic influences.

Our main task today was to drive to our next night's stay in Arso in the Troodos Mountains inland.  But first, we wanted to visit a small popular village also in the hills (Omodos).  Known for its wine festival, monastery, weavers, and many restaurants, we killed several hours enjoying a couple of great tuna salads and smoothies while watching lots of tourists and cats. 

We drove the very narrow and winding streets from Omodos to Arso, and located our reserved night stay,  With parking at a premium, and Google Maps only marginal, it was a definite adventure.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Saturday, April 27th, Arso, Cyprus.

Friday, April 26th, Paphos, Cyprus

Greetings!

After breakfast in the hotel, we drove to the Paphos Archeological Museum,  Another in the many local treasures which showcase the materials produced and placed in burial caves in the area over the past 3.,000 years.  The main story gained from these ruin and museum visits is how many and how advanced the civilizations were which occupied this island long before Greece or Rome or anyone in the last 2,000 years lived here.  We've lately begun to ignore the work which represents the last thousand years in the museums or on the ground.  As beautiful and important as it is, it just doesn't compare.

In a few days, we'll be in the capital city of Cyprus, and we'll visit the national archeology museum.  I'm sure it will be the super-dazzle old world visit, but these local museums do a great job of helping tell the story of the history of the Cyprus.  Families whose merchant and political lives carved huge impacts on each city have donated their collections to private homes turned into museums.  Free entrance to residents and visitors, hosted by patient and informed guides, complete the experience.  

Not wanting to limit our Cyprus experience to ruins, museums, and coastal walks, we drove north up into the hill above Paphos to Polis to see the northern edge of the island.  Nearby is the Baths of Aphrodite, with a botanical garden leading up to it.  Thankfully not a long uphill walk, we joined a few others imagining the greek goddess spending a quiet time in the cool waterfall grotto hideaway.

To see all of the photos taken today, click on Friday, April 26th, Paphos, Cyprus.